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09-09-2007, 05:29 AM
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#1
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Chex5: "Um... shoot!"
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Free Flow ERA MOD (HOW TO w/Pics)
(Disclaimer: Just to give credit where credit is due... the contents of the instructions below came from the Free Flow Manual. I have just modified the the manual to fit in a thread. Enjoy...)
Instructions on how to install the Free Flow ERA mod on your Angel LCD

Before starting make sure you have all the air disconnected from the Angel.
Step One: Remove the stock LPR
Remove the regulator and vertical adapter using a 4mm allen wrench.
Remove the air channeling block just above the vertical adapter using a 3mm allen wrench
Remove the left hand (when looking down the breech) plug in the front of the Angel using a 4mm allen wrench.
Use pliers to remove the LPR positioning bar.
Use the WDP LPR Removal tool to remove the entire LPR assembly including valve spring.

MAKE SURE TO LEAVE THE CUP SEAL IN THE GUN
Step Two: Install the Free Flow ERA unit
Make sure you have 4 o-rings attached to the ERA.
Affix the included valve spring onto the thin end of the ERA.
Screw the ERA into the left hand hole where the LPR was using the WDP Ram adjusting tool.
Make sure that you do not cut any of the o-rings when screwing the ERA into position. You can watch the holes in the bottom of the body where the vertical adapter once was. If you notice any sliced o-rings or see o-ring pieces in the holes you must remove the ERA, replace the o-rings and re-install the ERA.
Step 3: Remove central air passageway plug and install 10-32 straight fitting
Using the 2.5mm allen wrench remove the plug.
Apply thread locking compound to threads of 10-32 straight fitting.
Install straight fitting till it bottoms.
Step 4: Install the Micro Rock
Apply a generous amount of thread locking compound to the threads of the Micro Rock.
Thread the Micro Rock onto the ERA making sure the elbow fitting points towards the straight fitting.
NOTE: The threads cut in the ERA are designed to make installing the Micro Rock in any direction easy. The key is letting the entire unit dry for at least 30 minutes before gassing it up.
Step 5: Connect fittings with low pressure hose
Use small pliers to connect the two fittings that should be pointing towards each other. Be careful not to crush either fitting.
Finish up by making sure your setup looks like...
DO NOT APPLY GAS TO THE GUN UNTIL THE THREAD SEALANT DRIES FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES
FF's setup guide tells the user to increase the velocity via the regulator as high as it will go before the FPS starts to drop. From there you use the Micro Rock to back down the speed. There are all sorts of comments as far as the best way to set this up. Look in the Archived section in the FF threads for a full discussion.
DON'T FORGET TO CHECK OUT THE GAUGE MOD THAT GOES WITH THE ERA MOD. CLICK HERE TO LINK TO THE "HOW-TO"
Last edited by Poopshute : 09-10-2007 at 09:53 AM.
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09-09-2007, 01:55 PM
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#2
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So*Fla
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nice work there
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09-09-2007, 04:59 PM
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#3
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LOST
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Norđwegr
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I wonder if those are still available somewhere, haven't seen one for ages..
Good work btw, contact the current mods for stickying 
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09-09-2007, 05:26 PM
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#4
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Blue name = Mod, fella!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Home of the Buckeyes!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegard
I wonder if those are still available somewhere, haven't seen one for ages..
Good work btw, contact the current mods for stickying 
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Added. 
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09-09-2007, 09:50 PM
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#5
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and this...?
adds more efficency?
less +/- over the chrono?
__________________
bleh
selling a aka viking serial-A#231
pm me.
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09-10-2007, 01:30 AM
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#6
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Chex5: "Um... shoot!"
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0versh0t
and this...?
adds more efficency?
less +/- over the chrono?
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This is an old mod that was around back when LCD's were more popular. There was lots of debate whether this mod was worth it or not. WDP apparently won't touch your gun if you have this mod done. Aside from the debate... here is why I installed it.
I currently have an Evil valve with a UL valve spring (much lighter than stock). I also have an extremely light ram shaft and a SS hammer that's half the weight of stock. All of this creates less kick as well as the potential for higher cycle rates. It also requires me to decrease the LPR pressure a bit. Doing it the conventional way required me to take apart the LPR to remove shims every time I wanted to tune it. It got extremely annoying having to do that every time and I was only able to adjust the LPR in increments. Anyways, the jist of this mod is to allow you to adjust the LPR as you would on a DM or PM. Using the Mirco Rock by Palmers Pursuit Shop ensures that the LPR will be extremely consistent and IMHO only helps the consistency of the LCD.
To answer your questions... the efficiency over the chrono really depends on other parts of the gun along with the LPR. I would say, yes, this mod will help you fine tune your LCD to be consistent and efficient as hell.
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09-10-2007, 03:29 AM
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#7
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Just bored really...
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CSU Chico
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Haven't seen this done in ages. Koodos to you sir, for keeping your LCD competitve for so long.
__________________
Drug Free I want broken A1's, pm me
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09-10-2007, 09:51 AM
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#8
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Chex5: "Um... shoot!"
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikk50
Haven't seen this done in ages. Koodos to you sir, for keeping your LCD competitve for so long.
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Thanks, man. Aside from a little extra weight, my LCD is performing with the new big boys of today. I just don't see a reason to upgrade and spend an extra $500+ for a little less weight.
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09-10-2007, 01:58 PM
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#9
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LOST
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Norđwegr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poopshute
Thanks, man. Aside from a little extra weight, my LCD is performing with the new big boys of today. I just don't see a reason to upgrade and spend an extra $500+ for a little less weight.
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QFT. My LCD never stops working 
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09-12-2007, 02:25 AM
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#10
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Anyone still selling this mod?
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09-12-2007, 11:35 AM
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#11
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Chex5: "Um... shoot!"
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper-mayhem
Anyone still selling this mod?
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Found mine on e-bay not too long ago. Interesting enough it didn't have the same finish and was designed slightly different. It may had been a custom job. There's a guy on the AOG forum who mills hammers that might be able to mill a few of these if he gets a sample. I could ask him if you're interested in that.
The design of it is very simple and can be turned on a lathe fairly easily IMHO.
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09-13-2007, 03:12 PM
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#12
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Anonymous industry worker
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Montreal Quebec Canada
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I used to have a very similar mod on my Ir3 fly. Blizzard Paintball Products made mine and I used an micro rock. This mod combine with Warped Eyes was simply the best thing ever....! I think I went a year without chopping a ball.
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09-13-2007, 03:16 PM
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#13
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Chex5: "Um... shoot!"
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxacho
I used to have a very similar mod on my Ir3 fly. Blizzard Paintball Products made mine and I used an micro rock. This mod combine with Warped Eyes was simply the best thing ever....! I think I went a year without chopping a ball.
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Yup, warped eyes and an A4 Fly board here. Chops are VERY rare.
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09-25-2007, 06:15 AM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Avondale, AZ
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wow, i remember thi smod back in the day. actually, mine was 1 of the 1st.. if not THE first.. to have it done. i wonder what ever happened to my old 2k dark lcd :/
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09-25-2007, 07:47 AM
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#15
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lıɥıu
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
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Question: Can this be done to an Ir3?
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09-25-2007, 08:28 AM
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#16
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The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
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Yes. They use the exact same valve/LPR structure as the LCD. With the right adapter (none have been made) you could do it to the newer angels as well, though the SCM and JDS LPR's have as good or better performance than any 'cocker LPR and are drop-in upgrades.
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07-11-2010, 10:09 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Belfair,Wa
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I'll raise this dead thread. Just to say this mod does work and looking forward to finding one for my LED Project. Had one many yrs back and it was perfect when it came to adjustments.
Later,
Blackrain 
__________________
"When all else fails,pull the pin and see what's next!"
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07-17-2010, 12:30 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
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I had to contribute.
Its actually pretty easy to make one out of an old "front plug" (correct name escapes me at the moment). Only need a few parts. Quick how to:
buy 05' speed "valve spring spacer" http://www.fixmyangel.com/product_in...roducts_id=406
Drill and tap "front plug" for 1/8" npt threads
http://www.fixmyangel.com/product_in...roducts_id=770
remove center LP air plug and install 10/32 fitting
tap and install set screws in the 3 forward holes in the bottom of the body(LPR retainer, vent hole, and LP air channel). LP air channel screw should be long enough to fill entire length of the hole blocking hp air from the enlarged valve chamber.
Install lpr into front plug and screw into body, then run hose from LPR to the fitting in the body.
Using that and a few other mods(aka SMC LPR, Nylon hammer, Aluminium ram shaft, UL valve spring, and aka valve, I have an LCD running 55 lpr, 200 hpr, and will do over 20bps with no shoot down and awesome consistancy.
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07-17-2010, 01:18 AM
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#19
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The Angel Eye Doctor
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
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We discussed a similar type of DIY volume chamber and external LPR mod in this thread:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...133&highlight=
You still making the nylon hammers and UL springs Chris?
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07-17-2010, 12:31 PM
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#20
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O' Herro Preeeez
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: MN
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if you're making those parts (hammer, shaft, spring, ect...) I'd have a lot of interest in them. I've been trying to find an ERA mod for a good week now, haven't made a WTB yet, but haven't stumbled on one yet.
__________________
QUESTIONABLE CONTENT: Zeoalex- yeah, i will say...i love yoga....makes me feel...good Zeoalex (again)- You're just angry I ate your husband
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07-28-2010, 12:53 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
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I still have a few springs sitting around and still make the hammers on a by order basis. As far as the ram shafts, I would be willing make some more(the first and only run I did was 3 sets; ram shaft, hammer, and spring). The biggest question is if there would be enough interest to warrent the time to produce them.
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