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Archived Thread - Cannot Edit
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08-08-2007, 09:17 PM
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#1
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using a drill press as a mill
ok so if i use my drill press with milling bits to mill soft aluminum like spyder frame with light presser on the horizontal part will it still wear out the bearings in my drill press? or should i buy like a cheap plug in drill and use it to mill and sumhow hold it steady with a stand?
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WTS/T:autococker trilogy competition, jt tactical, spyder for parts.
WTT:i need your cheap pump.
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08-08-2007, 10:29 PM
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#2
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paintball is gay
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rep tha 631
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use a mill
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08-08-2007, 10:42 PM
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#3
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Old and Tired
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dremel
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08-08-2007, 10:48 PM
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#4
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ok ok so i just wont do it the lazy mans way....mama mia u guys dont tell me what i want to hear.
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WTS/T:autococker trilogy competition, jt tactical, spyder for parts.
WTT:i need your cheap pump.
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08-08-2007, 10:50 PM
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#5
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125 Customizer!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: East of the STL
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Dont waste your time and money.
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125customs is taking small amounts of Anodizing work currently. Gloss and Dust. Splashes, Acidwashes, and Fades done
Thanks
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08-09-2007, 11:38 PM
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#6
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ive tried that cus our mill at school was broken and it doesnt work.
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08-10-2007, 12:03 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: chuluota FL
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i got my drill pres to work.... cept u need a rotary bit for makes the grooves in metal... hook it up and take of a little metal off the top at a time dont jsut got through and try takin it all off at once, jsut think layer with each pass.
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08-10-2007, 12:22 AM
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#8
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robinhood was a thief
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: clearwater, florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodangel13
i got my drill pres to work.... cept u need a rotary bit for makes the grooves in metal... hook it up and take of a little metal off the top at a time dont jsut got through and try takin it all off at once, jsut think layer with each pass.
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yep, thats the best way to do it.
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"Originally posted by Jebus Christ: Well it's official, I'm going to hell......"
"Originally posted by Nerobellum: it sounded like an angry chainsaw covered in rust and syphilis. "
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08-10-2007, 02:34 AM
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#9
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I have returned
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nordamerika
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It is possible with an x-y-z axis table and rotary bits. As long as you use bloodangel13's method
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08-10-2007, 06:46 AM
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#10
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WE ARE...... PENN STATE!!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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You shouldn't do this because of the way a drill press is made. the milling will be absolutely ****ty, you'll get a ton of chatter. The spindle on a drill press isn't strong enough to not bend when you try to mill anything.
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"Originally posted by sdwinder9x: This thread is full of more scrubbery than Matrix's inbox."
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08-10-2007, 08:24 AM
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#11
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timetraveler
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Tecumseh MI
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This comes up all the time, search around for it.
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ydna@zdspb.com - [ZDSPB.com]
nummech.com
As told by Stobaeus
...someone who had begun to learn geometry with Euclid, when he had learnt the first theorem, asked Euclid "What shall I get by learning these things?" Euclid called his slave and said "Give him threepence since he must make gain out of what he learns".
Used parts f/s
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08-10-2007, 09:30 AM
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#12
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I'm cool :D
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Nor*Cal
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wasnt there a thread where someone they said how to convert your drill press to a mill?
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RIP Joe Pass
:tup: I did it for the Lulz : 4/6/08 , 07:47 PM
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08-10-2007, 12:32 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Burnaby BC, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoXi
wasnt there a thread where someone they said how to convert your drill press to a mill?
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I did a bit of a writeup with pics of how to hold the endmills and not let them rattle out.
I also stressed most firmly that using a drill press for milling totally sucks. Before I got my proper mill I used my drill press mod for doing some mortises (slots) in wood and some very light milling on aluminium. It did fine on the wood but was just barely shy of useless for metal. Serious chatter, extremely limited cutting loads and a total lack of graduations to allow for measured cuts means that it's just not worth the effort.
As a bonus the side loads from an end mill combined with the chatter will loosen up the chuck from the taper and it'll just fall down into your workpiece.
If you're milling a slot in the side of a body I'd recomend drilling a line of holes and then use files or a Dremel to open them up and clean it to form your slot.
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I just thought I'd take a quick peek and then the world went all yellow.....
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