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Old 08-09-2007, 01:48 PM #22
bornsiper()99
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this best be done next time i see you lol jk

looks cool cant wait to see finished
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Old 08-09-2007, 01:54 PM #23
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yeah i wanna see it with anno
i never really liked the viking because its huge lol but i like what you did with it
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Old 08-09-2007, 01:59 PM #24
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Today I should be finishing the upper tube cuts, and the "fsp" milling.

I just have to pick up an aluminum cutting Scroll saw blade.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:23 PM #25
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first post updated.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:42 PM #26
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Quote:
regulator dremeling
im going to hope you arent serious.

i dont see how you can possibly smooth that out evenly, there are too many cuts at varying depths and some that look too deep. especially the cuts where the tray meets behind the asa and around the air passage screws.

Quote:
I can always send this out if I dont like the final result.
i think its too late for that
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:46 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyjobob View Post
im going to hope you arent serious.

i dont see how you can possibly smooth that out evenly, there are too many cuts at varying depths and some that look too deep. especially the cuts where the tray meets behind the asa and around the air passage screws.

at this point, theres no turning back....
Want to point out the specific spot? This gun has alot of meat on it still. If you mean on the right side, where the ram cartrige goes in, that spot is rather thin. From the pictures the cuts look deep. In real life none are that much "deeper" than others.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:55 PM #28
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you may eventually get it smooth but i dont see how you could get it even. especially with the passage screws in teh way.
i wouldnt have milled out where the solenoid goes either.

not trying to hate but when you mention milling the regulator....
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:59 PM #29
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Yeah, the back part towards the screw is just barley cut. Im eventually going to round it all off.

The front part is an issue though. I am making deeper cuts, but I might have to send it to DC to get some Fsp done. I havent decided if I wanna try to do it myself.
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:53 AM #30
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if you have a mini belt sander or rotary sander that would be a good way to start sanding the back area. but for the smaller areas you may be stuck with the dremel. You have alot of really rough cuts but most if not all should be able to be smoothed out.
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:16 AM #31
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This is pretty brutal. Hope you can get it cleaned up, because it was a good looking gun before.

You're committed now!
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:19 AM #32
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looks good man, nice work, cant wait too see the final product
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:16 PM #33
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Marker is complete. All in needs now is anno.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:12 AM #34
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All those little bumps are going to show. Looking good though
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:26 AM #35
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It looks to me that you've got a looong way to go before you should even think about sending it to an anodizer.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:28 AM #36
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i think you should smooth it out alot more, like take a good couple hours and sand it down really good with some high grit paper or it will look all bumpy when it comes back from anno, just like it looks now, but with color.
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:17 PM #37
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agreed get some really fine grit and sand it down more. its still pretty rough.
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:20 PM #38
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to get it smooth, take a wire brush attachment and strt to go all around it, then fine grit sandpaper, sand it down, then to wire brush, then sand it, then get some polishign compound, and the fiber round brush and polish it us, it willl become smooth.
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:47 PM #39
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Wire brush/ wires wheels should not be used on aluminum..EVER.
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:41 PM #40
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i used the, you should see the gun body it is veryyyyy smooth, there is absolutly nothignwrong, as long as they are very abrassive, they use fire brushes to polish bores and barrels.
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:59 PM #41
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my old vike
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:19 AM #42
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any updates?
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