Bolt not cycling all the way at high ROF - PbNation
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:18 AM #1
Malystryx
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Bolt not cycling all the way at high ROF

Hey, got in my Diadem I.T.S. today finally, and love every bit of it so far. I was testing it's capabilities earlier. I had everything on default settings except that it was on full auto and 18 BPS cap. Shot a whole hopper fine, so I decided to boost the BPS cap to 20. It would fire one shot then the bolt would just sit forward and not fully cycle. It would move back and forth a couple centimeters. When I let off the trigger it would go back to it's original position. I pull it back again it would fire one shot and then not fully cycle. I tried setting it back to 18 and it would still do it. I went be back default settings, shot fine, tried going back to 18 bps, still would do the same thing. I just tore most of it down (pretty much everything except the valve) and lube the o-rings because most of them looked dry. The only performance upgrade I believe would be the Palmers LPR, which the screw is pretty close to flush with the LPR body. The HPR was showing a little over 200 psi. No leaks, I shot it over the chrono a couple times and it was shooting around 230 fps. I didn't adjust it because I didn't have much of a reason to since I wouldn't be able to play a game with it for awhile and would have to adjust it again before I play as I do with all my other markers.
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Old 05-04-2007, 04:26 PM #2
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sounds like the reg isn't recharging fast enough for the marker to cycle properly at high rof... I had this exact problem when I didn't have enough pressure behind it. try raising the psi or opening the reg up a bit more.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:46 PM #3
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I opened the reg up and had it reading around 275 on the gauge. I also tried opening up the LPR some, it seemed to help a little, but I seen my gauge was reading 300 so I thought that was a bit too much for the solenoid and lowered to back down. What exactly does the LPR control? I know on cockers it would control the strength of the ram there fore how hard the bolt would go back and forth. I believe it has something to do with the LPR...
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:54 PM #4
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lpr is a low pressure regulator, it takes your regulated air, and lowers it further. 300 is fine for the soli, but I wouldn't go much higher. try keeping your main reg around 250ish and then opening up the lpr a bit more. (lpr is basically just a second regulator to lower the pressure further)

edit: what kind of regulator do you have?
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Last edited by Axe56 : 05-04-2007 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:49 PM #5
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The HPR is the stock Centerflag, the LPR is a Microrock Palmers LPR. I know to increase pressure on the HPR I turn it counter-clock wise, is it the same for the LPR?
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Old 05-05-2007, 12:36 PM #6
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Tried adjusting the regulators both ways today, most of the time the bolt just stayed forward and didn't even budge on full auto set at 16 bps. The guage was reading around 225-250 psi...
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:02 PM #7
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hrmmmm.... how big is the macro or micro line your using? (the inside diameter of the tubing.) - or better, how thick is are the walls of the tubing.

you can try setting your hpr at 250 and removing the lpr entirely, then playing with the input pressure until you get a working marker... and throwing the lpr back on and adjusting it. -I'm still working with the pressure idea because I've always experienced the bolt staying all the way forward when I haven't had enough running through the marker.
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:37 PM #8
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It has a braided hose on it. I'll keep messing with it and try to find a plug for the LPR...
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:38 PM #9
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didn't the centerflag guages have an issue with not being labeled properly? i have the paper somewhere about it. if you can try with another one i would do that long before you take off the micro rock. you can't lube the centerflag reg, so that is out. try putting some lube in the asa on the body of the gun so that it gets to the rock. that may be a little dry. i got shootdown pretty bad one time with the MR and so i took off the hpr and put a little lube and cycled a few times and then it all went away.
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:45 PM #10
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Can't lube the Centerflag what? Mine crapped the first day I had it, (reg, not the dits) so I took it apart, cleaned off the white lith, and oiled. Seems to work fine now.

Set he HPR somewhere between 250 and 300, that way you can adjust the Rock without damage to the solenoid.

Or... change the battery. Diadems are know for acting weird when the battery gets low.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:46 PM #11
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I changed the reg out and put in a torpedo. I adjusted the reg and the bolt would cycle seem to fully cycle with less PSI. I didn't have a guage to tell, but I unscrewed it more and it acted like it was out of it, screwed in the nut a little and it cycled more than what it would when it would have more PSI. I'll swap out the battery, and put the centerflag reg back on. But I had the Centerflag screwed all the way in and it would only go up to 250psi.
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:56 AM #12
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throw the centerflag on with it all the way open, and then open up the lpr until the marker cycles properly... it should. once it starts cycling properly I'd start turning the centerflag down a bit and keeping the lpr open, if it still cycles properly after a few cranks on the centerflag, start tuning the lpr down more until it doesn't. -then open the lpr up a bit again.
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Old 05-07-2007, 05:37 PM #13
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I did what you said, got it fully cycling or so it appears (I checked where the bolt rests at and it comes back everytime to the resting spot after it cycles on full auto at 15bps). It won't seem to shoot a paintball every time. First I tried it with reballs, had eyes on, and it would shoot but nothing would come out of the barrel, so I stopped shooting, then I loaded up another one finally and would shoot that one, but no more than one. It sounds good (by this I'm meaning it doesn't sound like it's getting low on air after you hold the trigger down). I'm using an Empire B, it doesn't show that it's low on battery's but maybe it is...
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Old 05-07-2007, 05:52 PM #14
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so it was shooting blanks even with the eyes on? - try getting out of full auto and going into semi for trouble shooting... if you can keep the bps setting at 15+ and walk the trigger... see if you start shooting actual balls. -I'm thinking that the bolt is not fully resetting every time the marker fires in full auto, thus not allowing enough room for a ball to drop down into the chamber after every shot.

also if you haven't already, try resetting the board to factory settings, the previous owner may have adjusted the dwell and others that affect firing and eyes / timing...
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:44 PM #15
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Tried that, but I can only hit around 13 on that trigger right now, and it seemed to shoot fine. I put it on turbo or whatever it's called and it would skip shots every 2 or 3 times a paintball would come out. Also I broke about 2 or 3 in mid air when I shot out around 50. I thought I broke one in my barrel and it was perfectly clean, and it doesn't clean out that good.

Also is there any place I can get a different trigger?
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:26 PM #16
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what grade/brand of paint are you shooting with? - I've found that because the dits fires so quickly nothing but the tournament grade stuff works really well. once you get it firing with the right paint/pressure, it shoots like a dream. (I haven't had a broken ball in the 4+ cases of paint I've run thru after tuning it. -say goodbye to the squeegie)

aside from a custom trigger your kinda stuck with it... I want a new one too! a magnetic response and ball bearing mod might do the trick for a more responsive trigger. (both things I plan on doing... I just have to be playing regularly again before I take it seriously.) -which is also pretty cheap, earth magnets are about a buck and a half, and the ball bearings are less then 10... a little manual labor and your set.
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Last edited by Axe56 : 05-07-2007 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:46 PM #17
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I'm definately going to try the magnet mod, but I've never heard of the ball bearing mod, how would I go about doing that? The paint I just tested with was some new Red Legion Hammer paint made by RPS. I'll try it with some Evil Midevil tomorrow...
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Old 05-11-2007, 10:11 PM #18
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The magnetic trigger mod, are they the same size magnets used in Emags?
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:33 PM #19
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they look rather similar (same application) but the ones I'm talking about are the rare earth magnets from radioshack, really they just have to be small and powerful to get the job done =]

the ball bearing mod is tapping out the trigger around the point where it rests on the trigger pin, inserting really small ball bearings on either side and reinstalling the trigger into the frame, giving you a nice smooth ball-bearing rolling trigger.
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Old 05-12-2007, 01:23 PM #20
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i have the magnets from radioshack in there. you need about half a mechanical pencil eraser to sit in the frame where the spring went, but i like it very much.
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