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Old 04-08-2005, 05:57 PM #64
JasonsLan
 
 
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pull the trigger. . . . *uhhh... duh*
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Old 05-01-2005, 12:05 AM #65
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I have a question about the JT 6.0. If I put a Co2 tank on and it leaks out through the barrel, what do I do to fix that? I can't figure it out, so I hope you all can help me!
--Neil
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:38 AM #66
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mostlikely the valve... have you taken it out at all lately? the rule that I try to follow is if you take the valve out on some type of spyder/spyderclone the orings will need to be replaced. even if they don't look like it they do. if it is not your valve than i would be your cup seal. I doubt that though, thoes things last a long time and unless you are going at it with pliers and stuff they will still work.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:00 PM #67
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What part is the valve? I have a good idea on what part it is, but I'm not sure. Thank you a bunch also!!!
--Neil
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:41 PM #68
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haha. if you take apart you gun (and i mean completely, piece by piece) its something that looks like a small canister. its in the front behind the block. you have to take it out with a long screw driver from the back. you'll know what it is once you see it
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Old 05-02-2005, 01:27 PM #69
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go here> http://www.ottersccustoms.com/assemble.html It tells everything about taking it appart including pics of the valve.
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:45 AM #70
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Thank you all for your help! I appreciate it!
--Jesse Neil
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:17 PM #71
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jt 5.0

my jt 5.0 trigger sticks too i can only get it up to 10 bps and it woobles from side to side a lot.
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Old 07-12-2005, 08:09 PM #72
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JT Tetra Question

i have a question im new to paintball and it has been played with once and i just pulling the trigger listening to the clicks you know then i put it up ... then the next morning i took it out turned it on and it says service needed .... does that have to do with the battery? and if so where do i get a new one?
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:43 PM #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielelias
mostlikely the valve... have you taken it out at all lately? the rule that I try to follow is if you take the valve out on some type of spyder/spyderclone the orings will need to be replaced. even if they don't look like it they do. if it is not your valve than i would be your cup seal. I doubt that though, thoes things last a long time and unless you are going at it with pliers and stuff they will still work.
to add on to wat danielelias said, if you have taken ur marker completely apart and after it leaks throw the barrel, you most likely put your value in backward, there is one side with a larger hole and the other is smaller, the size of the pin, the bigger hole is the one that has to be facing out, were the cupseal goes. me and my friend took his gun apart and the it didnt work, so i bought it off him for parts, and its been a year now and ive finally realized what was wrong with it so i sold it to my brother, ahaha
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Old 08-27-2005, 02:27 AM #74
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Does anyone know the sizes for the striker O-Ring for the 6.0? Just curious, that way I can stock up on them for when I need them, and not have to call the company up.
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Old 02-24-2006, 05:44 PM #75
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what battery should i use with a 5.0? does it need a 9.6 or is there a 9v that will work?
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Old 02-25-2006, 12:27 AM #76
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9.6 works best but it isn't needed. I use a 9 and it works fine.
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:54 AM #77
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thanks. any estimates of how many shots to expect? i pickerd up a rayovac. damn that's a weird looking word.
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Old 03-29-2006, 11:45 PM #78
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Mine shoots, but I can't walk it, it will only shoots every third to fourth. Any ideas? ( I tried changing the battery.).
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Old 03-30-2006, 04:25 PM #79
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The board is capped, so if you go too fast it will skip shots. Just control how fast you're shooting and it will be fine.
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Old 03-30-2006, 04:30 PM #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowpie OWNER
Mine shoots, but I can't walk it, it will only shoots every third to fourth. Any ideas? ( I tried changing the battery.).
I don't think many people can walk the Excellerator triggers. They definitely don't seem designed for it.

I had the same problem. It's an electronic problem. I had to send mine in to get it fixed. That's probably the route you should take.

Getting a mechanical Spyder or JT frame for a backup grip might not be a bad idea too. I'm currently looking for one myself.
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:45 PM #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glaman5266
I don't think many people can walk the Excellerator triggers. They definitely don't seem designed for it.

I had the same problem. It's an electronic problem. I had to send mine in to get it fixed. That's probably the route you should take.

Getting a mechanical Spyder or JT frame for a backup grip might not be a bad idea too. I'm currently looking for one myself.
Would that be a mod? Or a problem with the guns design?
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Old 03-31-2006, 07:58 PM #82
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I have found Excellerator electronics to be rather unreliable. Mechanical JT frames and even Spyder frames will fit the marker. No modding required. I would suggest getting one of those two mechanical frames to backup your electonic frame.
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Old 04-01-2006, 10:48 PM #83
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Does anyone have any idea how much this will cost? And I was thinking about just going with saving up for a 98 custom. Which, or what else do you suggest?
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Old 04-02-2006, 12:14 AM #84
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Mechanical trigger frames are pretty cheap. However, getting a 98C/Pro is not a bad idea. You would then have one electro and one mechanical. But looking at just the money factor, I would suggest getting a mechanical trigger frame and switch them when you want a mechanical marker. If money were no object, get a decent mechanical like the Tippmann you were looking at.
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