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Old 04-07-2003, 04:08 PM #1
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Jt Faq

Okay, lets get a little FAQ going. No SPAM or talking, if you need to talk use PMs...I'll start it out...

1) If your gun shoots every other shot your battery is either low or you need to get a new solenoid.

2) If you are chopping balls drill a couple of holes in the vertical feed to reduce blowback.

3) If the gun is not shooting hard, turn up the velocity or adjust your reg to the right pressure.

I'll add more later...but add on in the mean time.
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Old 04-07-2003, 07:44 PM #2
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4) If, between the first two o-rings on your bolt, the hole goes all the way through, call up JT and tell them you have an old bolt and are requesting a new one. This will also help with the ball chopping problem.
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:00 PM #3
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Hey capn, copy paste from the pbreview forums...I wrote a lot on disassembly and whatever.
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Old 04-13-2003, 03:24 PM #4
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This is posted by Jewish Ranger, NOT ME, believe me, I'm not that smart

Maintanence of JT Excellerator 3.0/4.0
Before and after every paintball game it is important for you to wipe your paintball gun down, disassemble it, oil all of the necessary parts, and put it back together for storage or play.

Materials Needed to Disassemble and Maintain Gun:

1. A towel or rag to set bits and pieces down on and to wipe gun off

2. Gold cup gun oil or any other type of oil specially made for paintball use

3. Set of allen wrenches which should have come with your JT gun

4. A few long pieces of rag (you can do like I did and cut up an old T-Shirt into many strips)

Basic Disassembly of JT Excellerator 3.0 and 4.0:

1. Take ring off of pin at the back of gun, right under the bolt

2. Hold down the silver cylinder under the bolt tube and carefully slide the pin out of the gunís body (if you do not hold the cylinder down it will shoot out and you may lose some important parts)

3. Now carefully pull out the metal cylinder out of the tube, you will see the metal cylinder, a spring, anda black plastic guide. Take these parts and carefully put them to the side

4. Carefully, and pulling straight out so as to not scratch anything, pull the bolt which is attached to the striker out of the guns body, but be sure to catch the striker because it will fall out (the black rubber stopper will also fall out)

5. Look at the front of the gunís body; you will see the volumizer which is the bullet shaped thing sticking out of the bottom tube of the body. You will need to just unscrew this and put to the side all that you took out, which should be the volumizer, a cone shaped spring, and metal star looking guide, and the cup seal and valve pin

6. Now, with an old rag, very carefully wipe down all that you took out, and roll another rag up into a long swab and run it through the top tube of the gunís body (where the bolt was) and through the barrel

7. Put a few drops of oil on a rag and wipe all of the parts that you took out to cover them with a thin layer of oil. Next you will need to take the paintball gun oil and put a drop on all of the o-rings that you see (which should be 3 on the bolt, 1 on the striker, and 1 on the volumizer) then, with your finger, for each o-ring evenly spread that drop of oil to cover then entire ring

8. Now the reassembly begins, and youíll hafta screw the volumizer back in with the spring inside of it, and to the spring connected the star-shaped guide, and the cup seal and valve pin (just how you took it out)

9. Attach the striker (which in case you still donít know is the big metal thing inside of the lower tube which was attached to the bolt) to the bolt and once again carefully slide it back in until it will go no further

10. While applying pressure to the bolt pull on the trigger and the bolt should snap back into place, then put pressure once again on the bolt and pull the trigger again to decock the bolt

11. Next put into the bottom tube the thick rubber stopper (which looks like an oversized o-ring), pushing it all the way in

12. Put into the bottom tube the main spring which should go in the hole in the rubber stopper you just put in

13. Put inside the spring the black plastic guide, and put on the metal cylinder which is the velocity adjuster

14. Push the metal cylinder in so that the hole will align with the hole on the gunís body, and push through the pin that you took out in the very beginning

15. Last, slide on the ring to hold the pin in place and cock and dry-fire your gun a few times to make sure that it works

Advanced Disassembly of JT Excellerator 3.0 and 4.0:

1. Repeat steps 1-7 of the basic disassembly to begin

2. Take a phillips head screw driver and take out the screws holding the regulator to the drop forward

3. Take the expansion chamber or gas-through grip and turn it clockwise until it unscrews

4. Now you can clean the inside of your x-chamber or gas-through and after you are done put 2-3 drops of oil down the tube inside of the x-chamber/gas-through and try to evenly spread it with your finger as much as you can

5. To reassemble screw the x-chamber/gas-through back on and reattach the screws that hold the regulator to the drop forward

6. Repeat steps 8-15 of basic disassembly to finish

Do the advanced disassembly about after 2-3 games and do the basic before and after every game to ensure a properly working gun without any malfunctions during your play.
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Old 04-13-2003, 03:25 PM #5
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Again, posted by JEWISH RANGER

Upgrades for JT Excellerator
Most of this was quoted from OtterSC

Some upgrades work and some do not for the JT Excellerator line of paintball guns, for example there arenít any aftermarket grips that will on the JT Excellerator trigger frames. Here is a list of upgrades you can buy for your JT:

Basic Upgrades

1. New Barrel - This should be the first thing to get before anything else. Any spyder barrels will fit the JT line of guns. The stock JT barrel is one of the best stock barrels ever for close range accuracy, but if you want long-rage accuracy or a barrel for LP then youíre going to have to buy an aftermarket one. There is no ONE barrel that is more accurate than another. I cringe when I see that statement that "XYZ" barrel is the very best. That is false! The best way to have accuracy is to make sure you match the paint you use often with a barrel of matching bore size. A good paint to barrel match will help give you accuracy and cuts down on wasting air. A new barrel will be quieter than the stock in most cases. A new barrel will also sometimes help in ball breaks. Get a barrel between 8-14". Actual studies on paintball have shown that it takes a minimum 8" for a paintball to get up to speed. Another 2-4" is a guide for the paintball. The remaining barrel is just friction on the ball, causing you to use more gas. Good companies to look at are CP, Dye, J&J, Lapco, and Smart Parts. You can get quality barrels for under $60.

2. Agitating Ball Hopper - Breaking paintballs? It may not be the bolt, as many manufacturers will claim. It very well can be the speed of the balls feeding into you marker. In a non-agitating hopper, the balls tend to get stuck before entering the hopper neck. When they do find there way down the neck, it could be the same time that the bolt is traveling forward. You have the BE eVolution, and the 9v and 12v Revi's to choose from. There are other hoppers that you can consider. But the above mentioned have been proven. These special hoppers will increase the feed by agitating the paintballs in the hopper with rotating paddles. Keeping the balls moving will help prevent the bottleneck that happens with non-agitating hoppers. There is also the AGD Warp Feed. This requires a Revi along with the Warp Feed. So, why get the Warp Feed when I also need a Revi for it. A good reason is that the hopper is moved from the top of your marker to the side. This is a much lower profile, enables you to shoot your marker sideways, and increases the feed into your marker. The only draw back is the feed is dictated by how the Revi feeds it. Sideways shooting, youíre probably good for 15 to 20 shots. Then you need to right side it up to refill the Warp.

3. Regulator - A good addition. It will make your marker more consistent which will give your marker potentially better accuracy. Be sure to get the right regulator for the gas youíre using. For CO2 - Palmers Stabilizer and Bob Long Torpedo is a great choice. Also, the WGP regulator for the Autococker and the PMI are not bad with CO2 and can screw into the JT 5.0/6.0. For Nitro/HPA - Vigilante are good or any of the CO2 regulators mentioned above. And if you do get a regulator while using CO2 and switch to Nitro, no problem using the same regulator. To add a regulator to the JT 3.0\4.0 you will need to do some modifications and itís not for everyone. For the 5.0/6.0 any regulator should fit into the vertical adapter. You may need to invest in a new ASA (that thingy that you screw the tank to), elbows, and braided hose or macro-line. It is possible to use the existing air lines with the use of a Metric to US thread adapter. Adding an anti-siphon tube to the CO2 tank will help keep liquid CO2 out of the marker.

Don't bother with an expansion chamber or even a gas thru grip. Expansion chambers will give the CO2 time to expand. But it will still give you velocity spikes that can add 20, even 30 fps. See not so great upgrades below for a better explanation as well as setup suggestions.

4. Spring Kit - An excellent way to fine tuning the velocity. Especially in really cold or hot weather when the velocity cannot adjust to where you need it. 32 Degrees and Maddman kits are popular. Also, while getting the springs, stock up on o-rings and get a Lapco cup seal. O-rings tend to break often. Especially when using CO2. The Lapco cup seal is made of softer material and doesn't scratch easily. This gives you a better seal than the stock one. Another small price item is a thread protector. This is a cap that screws onto the air bottles threads and proctects them from getting banged up. For you nitro tank users, I also suggest a fill nipple cap to keep dirt out.

5. Nitro/HPA Tank - This will level out any severe spikes that you often get with CO2. Even with a regulator. Your shots will be very consistent because it is simply air that we breathe that is used. Much more stable than CO2.

6. Trigger Job or Electronic Trigger Frame - There are many home modification instructions available online to reduce trigger pull on several sites. www.Spyder-Club.org and www.Spyder-faq-center.com has articles as well. If you're not too sure of yourself about doing your own modification, go to Polecat Paintball and for $20 (at the time of this writing), you get a pretty nice one. Getting a new trigger frame may be an option. There are many to choose from. Some you may need to transfer your existing trigger internals to the new frame. If you do that, might as well do a trigger mod. Dye, Bob Long, 32 Degrees are good trigger frames. The e-frames are nice. Also, depending on the trigger frame, the holes that you have for the bottom line may change. JT stock frames have off-center holes. Some aftermarket frames have in-line holes and if this is the case, a bottom line adaptor is needed or get a new bottom line accordingly.

7. Drop Forward or Bottomline - While youíre getting a regulator, look into getting a drop forward or a bottomline. Stock, the JTs will use metric threads, including the hoses. Adding US threaded pieces will make adding aftermarket items easier. Drop forwards come in all shapes and sizes. Get one you like. Drop forwards with an on/off feature on the ASA are nice. No more gas escaping from your tank while you unscrew the tank. Just turn off the air, shoot the maker (without paint) until it no longer re-cocks. Also, look under your grip. Are the holes staggered? More than likely they are. You need to purchase an adapter that switches your staggered, off-center holes on the bottom of the grip to in-line holes. These can be found at G3 Paintball and Polecat Paintball. Expect to pay around $10 to $15. And don't forget about new fittings and air lines. For air lines, I suggest either SS braid or Macroline. Microline are too restrictive. Braided hose lasts longer, but comes in certain sizes. Macroline can be cut to fit and easy to replace, but tends to crack and leak easily. You can use the stock air lines. However, a Metric to US thread adaptor is needed. If you do get new air fittings, get ones that are inexpensive.

8. Polish Internals - Polishing your internals will ease the friction of your parts in the marker. This is not really a purchase item like the list above, but certainly a performance enhancing upgrade. Use 800-1,000 grit paper and use circular motions. Never use coarse sandpaper and do not create any flat spots. Clean off the dust and use a nice metal wax, like Mothers Mag. You need to polish the bolt, sear, valve pin, and the inside of the body where the bolt assembly moves. But do not sand the internal tubes. Just polish them.

Advanced Upgrades

* The following items are not really needed for a great shooting marker. If you have done all of the above, you have invested a lot of time and money into your marker. The next step into transforming your JT into a slick marker is to make it LP (or Low Pressure). You're more than halfway there if you have done all of the above upgrades. The next few steps are either purchased products and/or home modifications that you can do.

1. Bolt Ė The stock JT bolt is almost perfect for LP use, but if you want to squeeze every last ounce of performance from your gun you can buy an aftermarket one. Stay away from venturi tho. There is a dedicated LP bolt made by AKA called Lightening Bolt. This is a bolt that is manufactured in such a way to direct the flow of air to the ball. It also has no venturi. You can also get delrin bolts which are made from plastic and wonít cause so much wear inside of your gun. Good delrin bolts are White Wolf, Tarantula, or a nylon Swan Creek, but almost any spyder bolts will fit in the JT.

2. Valve - The stock valve is all right for normal use, but there is a better valve available for LP. It is from AKA called the Tornado valve. Diamond Labs made one before their demise that worked great. But the DL valves are extremely hard to find. You could use any of the turbo valves such as the Venom, 32degrees MagnaPort, or the one from Taso with close to equal results. The AKA is well worth the money. If not, then get a turbo valve.

3. Miscellaneous Modifications - There are other things to do for an LP setup. Try different spring combinations for the main and valve. You may find that a strong valve and a weak main will give you the lowest psi at the desired velocity. Adding a gauge is also nice. They are not accurate and they may be off by 25psi, but it will give you a rough estimate on what pressure you are at. Some regulators do not allow you to mount gauges on them, so you need to mount them on the ASA or the gunís body itself if it is important to you to have a gauge.
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Old 04-13-2003, 03:28 PM #6
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Posted By Jewish Ranger:

Not So Great Upgrades

The following list is items not needed, basically a waste of money as far as performance wise. I suggest saving up for something more worthwhile like what is mentioned above....

a) Valves - For general use, the stock valve is good. Unless you are going LP, you are fine with the stock.

b) Bolts - The stock bolt is also good for general use. I have purchased other aftermarket bolts. I have not experienced any changes. I have never liked the venturi, LP setup or not. You may experience an increase in FPS. Just reduce the velocity or change springs to bring it down to the right velocity. There is NO magical bolt that will increase distance and accuracy that many manufacturers advertise.

c) Trigger Frame Ė The JT Frames are good, but for outer appearance, an aftermarket is all right too. A new trigger frame is just for looks. Dye stickies or hogue grips or any other aftermarket grips will not fit on the stick JT trigger frame.

d) Remote. This is preference. But, the loose hose from the marker to your tank on your back can get tangled up and slow you down. A drop forward is best to have a well balanced marker with a tank.

e) Expansion Chamber. They work, don't get me wrong. But having an anti-siphon tube installed will be so much better for consistency. Let say that you are playing in 75* weather - excellent for CO2. Or is it? As you shoot your marker, the tank will get cold. The more you shoot, the colder it gets. CO2 doesn't like the cold. As it gets cold, there is less pressure that evaporates into a gas. So, your tank pressure can be 800-900psi when you first start out. As you shoot, this pressure will reduce and it even could reduce to 500psi. As you shoot the liquid will be pulled out of the tank and into the marker causing velocity spikes and/or quick freeze your o-rings and break. Having an anti-siphon tube will only (if installed correctly) pull the gas out. Only in extreme cold climates will I ever suggest an x-chamber. I would actually tell you to use a remote line and carry your tank on your hip before switching to an x-chamber.

I'm currently working on more FAQs doe the JT guns so please wait cuz I've been busy. Gonna type up how to add a reg to JT 3.0/40 and other LP questions.




quote:
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I have a 6.0 specifically what can i do to bring the pressure down from 650-800 to a 200 without effecting it's performance.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Go low pressure and you will increase performance.


quote:
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All my o-rings fell apart after the first use when i went to cean it, It was a pain to find the o-rings does anyone know the actual size of the 3 major o-rings used.Stated in the manual Small-medium-large o-rings.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Buy an o-ring kit and see what fits, there are certain codes to the types but I cannot remember them from the top of my head.


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What can i do for the blow back on the marker.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I feel that going low pressure will help this, but since you have an open bolt blow back marker then this is something you will have to live with.


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The trigger sticks at times has anyone had a problem with this also.
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Could be your trigger spring is too light.


quote:
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And finall where can i get a different ball stop for this marker it has a tendency to shoot 2 balls.
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From the pics of the 6.0s I have seen it has a regular rubber ball detent so there are no real new ones you can buy, although you can do a mod (either by yourself or by a shop) which is basically drilling and tapping a hole for a ball bearing ball detent.
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Old 04-13-2003, 03:30 PM #7
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This should get stickied now

And, JT'S TAKE SPYDER BARRELS!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2003, 12:07 PM #8
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My Jt 5.0's trigger sticks sometimes. I read earlier that it could be my trigger spring which is too light. Can any1 help me fix this problem? I would like to do it myself rather than taking it into a store and being charged money.
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Old 06-29-2003, 07:54 PM #9
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um try compressing the spring thats all i can think of
well here is my post :
When you screw the c02 in and you hear a wierd sound then pressure builds up and co2 shoots out of the hole in the drop forward put a standard o-ring the same ones you put on tanks in the drop forward this acts like a buffer so the pin on the c02 tank doesnt hit the one in the drop forward too soon so there is excess pressure
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Old 07-24-2003, 07:33 AM #10
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a comment on the first 1: try to shorten/cut of 1-2 mm on the sear spring and that will sometimes fix the problem!
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Old 07-24-2003, 07:35 AM #11
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Comment on 1: try to shorten/cut off 1-2 mm on the sear spring insted! that will sometimes fix the problem!
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Old 08-22-2003, 06:21 PM #12
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Problem: My brothers JT 3.0 is leaking out of that barrel. This has yet to happen to my E-99, and I can't remember the fix for it... Is it a cup seal?
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Old 08-22-2003, 07:03 PM #13
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My 5.0 did that to me one time when i took out my stock valve and put it back in, and i just rotated the valve pin around, put everything back on, and it worked. It also could be the cupseal.
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Old 08-22-2003, 07:16 PM #14
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Well, it's been doing this for a while, and one of my friends dad is pretty good w/ guns, and he tried to fix it, but I don't think he changed the cup seal out. Which part is the valve? I haven't taken it apart all the way, and I'm not real good w/ the names of parts :-p.
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Old 08-22-2003, 07:21 PM #15
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The best thing you could do is look at JewishRangers FAQ on how to disassemble the 3.0, which is up above our posts, here in the FAQ thread. Or you can look at the dissasembly chart that came with the gun, if you still have it.
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:02 PM #16
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I'd like to add that it REALLY leaks out the barrel. Not just a little, like, enough to drain your c02 tank. If that makes any difference.... What is MOST probably the thing that needs fixing, is it almost definatly the cup seal?
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:47 AM #17
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I have a bolt and in between the first 2 orings, there is a whole that completetly goes through the bolt. Do i just call jt and tell them i want the new bolt. What information will they ask me?
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:49 AM #18
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Why don't you call them first??? They'll prabably will be able to explain it better than us.
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Old 12-09-2003, 04:37 AM #19
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yea call them and ask it cant hurt
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Old 01-26-2004, 05:59 PM #20
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Question:I have a 5.0
I know this is kinda a noobish question but,
is I were to get a 68/45 tank id have to get HP right?
what if I were to get a 68/3 tank,woulld the gun still work the same as the HP 68/45?
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:54 PM #21
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yes get hp, and if you got 68/3k it would be a steel tank(heavier) and it will work the same as the 68/45(is lighter though) but the 68/3k would get less shots
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