I figured since Lucky Forums closed, we lost our diagrams...I saved these a while ago and they are to help those who have the stage 5.1 and need to see what parts go where:
Turns out Chuimanfu had these diagrams up before I did...so i suppose I am just forwarding information now.
Link to Stage 5 FAQ...also on Stickies, but linked here for your pleasure.
the following was posted by Druid
on IO group.
Outer bolt stop O-rings are 020-70 Buna
Inner Bolt stop O-rings are 13x2 mm Buna
Back Cap inner O-rings are
Back cap for stage 5 and 5.1 are interchangeable
Guide posted by Chuimanfu from IO group
Things you should know:
-There is a warranty for 1 year on manufacturers defects on the assembly. O-rings and detents are not covered. (Probably not anymore since Lucky went MIA)
-Laser eyes for the stage 5.1 are included.
-Stage 1v4 aluminum bolts are installed in milled, classic, skeleton and twister bodies.
-Stage 1v3 aluminum bolts are installed in basic bodies.
-Use DOW 33.
-An extra bolt accelerator o-ring is included.
-If you intend to use a Stage 4 ultimate set up in a stock Ion frame, please contact us via email and we will send a free banjo that fits (Lucky US is gone, no more banjos).
-DM top hat rings will reduce the chamber size and increase pressure, decrease volume and get more shots per tank. SKU: mat-020
-The back cap has a 3/8 broach
. While we carry this Allen key on our store, your local Hardware store should have them in stock.
- The Detents are DM style, but we haven't had someone to find one that fit. Find some old Lucky rubber ones, Lucky spring detents, or the Kilas for Stage 5.1 bodies
- The Stage 5/5.1 bodies both only accept IMPULSE/ION threaded feenecks
Originally Posted by Nerve Owner
Umm if I could get the credit for writing the FAQ (which I did) that would be kool
Thanks, Good Job
LOL, i feel like a Genie....flip of my ponytail...Granted
Q:What type of barrel does the 5.1 accept?
A:Autococker threaded barrels only
Q:Can I use my Impulse threaded stock breech with the 5.1?
A:No, the firing can/breech is one piece.
Q: Does the L7 work with the S5.1 back cap?
Q:What does the 5.1 include?
A:Firing can/Breech (One-Piece), Bolt, Bolt Stop, Feedneck, Detents, and Laser Eyes.
Q: Is the 5.1 TRUE BOB
Q:I installed the ***** L7 Bolt in my Stage 5.1, and I can see a little bit of the bolt through the feedneck, is this normal?
A:If it is a little bit of the bolt, it is normal, if it is a lot of the bolt, your bolt stop may be installed backwards, or incorrectly.
Qoes any ion bolt works in the stage 5/5.1?
(answered by geekyPBmaniac)
A:With the STOCK back cap on the Stage 5 originals you can NOT run a Deadlywind HP or Techt L7 bolt as the set screw provided does not fit in the Allen key hole thread.
- I believe the DWHP requires a longer back screw and a different stalk for the S5.1 bodies. The L7 installation HOW-TO is below.
Q:If the back cap is stripped on the stage 5/5.1s how would you get it off?
(answered by geekyPBmaniac) -reply chopped by Ziggy
[coor=red]A:If it's threading, they need to be rethreaded. otherwise handtight is the rule. S5.1s have a 3/8 key. For the S5 originals, they strip VERY easily (i know mine did) to fix that problem, i drilled a 3/15 hole into the back cap at a perpendicular angle to the existing Allen key hole and took the back cap off that way.[/color]
How to install the ***** L7
Credit goes to one_lucky _ion or a_lucky_ion
-------Taking out the bolt-------
1) Unscrew the back cap on the 5.1.
2) Take out the v4 bolt and all of it's components.
3) Take apart the v4 set-up so that it is 4 different parts.
-------Installing the back plug-------
4) Take the L7 bolt plug and take off the inner o-ring (the one that would be closest to the breech of the gun) and then unscrew the plug in half (you will need a screw driver and an allen wrench).
5) Then take the back half (should have no o-ring on it) and push it into the inner part of the back cap. Then take the front half (should have an o-ring and a small spacer) and push it through the outside part of the back cap sot hat both sides meet. Then screw them together so that they are snug (you dont need to fuse them together tough guy).
-------Puting the L7 together-------
6) First take the can from the v4 and the L7 bolt stop. Insert the bolt stop into the side of the can so that only half of it sticks out (the side with the groove in it) and the flat side is facing away from the inside of the can.
7) Then take the L7 bolt and slide it through the bolt stop so the back part of the bolt meets the flatest side of the bolt stop. Also the tail of the bolt should be the only part of the bolt inside the can.
8) Now take the front insert from the v4 and slide it over the front of the bolt so that it meets with the L7 bolt stop.
-------Installing the L7-------
9) Take that big piece of metal (your new L7 bolt set-up) and slide it into the firing chamber of your 5.1 until it no longer moves forward. (when you look through the feedneck you should be able to see just a bit of the L7 resting on part of the breech).
10) Screw on the back cap with the plug inside of it and your good to go.
Now look infront of you. You should have a Lucky v4 bolt, a Lucky v4 bolt stop, and a small o-ring from the L7 back plug. If you don't..... go back and reread.
Lucky Tech (Jon) deserves credit for the leak guide.
- Nerve Owner also has added solutions to leak problems.
Back Cap Leaks:
- Remove the back cap and make sure you don't have a screw or a banjo sticking up into the chamber. If you have a screw sticking up into there, you need shorter screws. If you have a banjo sticking up, then you need a 006/90 urethane o-ring or a QEV spacer to make sure it doesn't stick up that far.
- Put your finger over the hole in the back cap. If you can feel air pushing, the issue is the o-rings on the tail of the bolt or the inner o-rings in the cap. Tail o-rings vary by bolt manufacturer but should be 9/70 buna or 10/70 buna. Inner cap o-rings are 12/75 Viton.
- If the leak is around the back of the cap then the problem is the outer 20/70 buna o-ring. If the leak persists with a new o-ring, switch to the thicker 20 x 2 o-ring to fix it.
- If the leak is through the gripframe then the problem is the inner 20/70 buna o-ring. If a new o-ring leaks (or you can feel air leaking out the back screw) you probably need the slightly larger 20 x 2 o-ring in both spots.
- If the center bolt o-ring (the one under the top hat) is shredding or causing a leak, you should replace it with a 12/90 urethane o-ring. It will last longer.
Leaks through Eye Covers:
It is most likely the QEV leaking. If that isn't the cause, check the internal Front Insert O-ring, then check the external Front Insert O-ring.
Bolt sealing Foward:
Originally Posted by Nerve Owner
If your bolt seals foward immediatelly, it may be the rear sail o-ring, which is a 16 x 2 o-ring. If you can take a few shots and then your bolt seals foward, your qev may be clogged.
See S1V4 Bolt Diagram below for O-ring identification.
NOTE: Pics have been resized and refer to all stage 5.1 except Basic model (The basic model uses an alum. V3 bolt).
Stage 5.1 Body Diagrams:
1. Complete assembly
2. Front insert
3. Bolt stop (Only used for the S1V4 Bolt.)
4. V4 Bolt (Notice the bolt does NOT
have tail o-rings.)
Originally Posted by havoc531
The rearmost bolt o-ring was replaced by a 12-90 urethane, rather than the 7x2 viton. This solves a lot of issues with poor quality bolt stops.
5. Back Cap
Originally Posted by Element
The 020 Bunas were later replaced with 20x2mm Bunas. Just a little bit thicker, less prone to leaking.
6. Assembly 1
7. Assembly 2
8. Assembly 3
Stage 4 Manual
SPITFIRE PDF LINK FOR ION BOARD
(THX Protoxxpaintball for the link)
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