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Old 04-27-2007, 05:34 PM #85
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instead of dropping around 17k for a new Bridgeport, the one guy at the place I work ( I work at a machine shop ) told me to get a conversion table for a drill press. It has a X and a Y that goes about 6-7 inches both ways and the table raises so it acts as a Z. for $35.00, does more than enough you would ever need to mill a gun or anything you would want to mill paintball wise.

if anyone wants pics I can go out and take some today.
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:23 PM #86
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In my experience, drill presses converted to milling machines are junk. They are very bad to chatter. As a result they aren't very accurate, they are unpredictable which is a horrible trait in a machine, and they produce ugly parts.

I would definately advise against doing that.

You don't have to drop 17k for a new bridgeport. You can get a full sized bridgeport clone for less than 5k. I bought my Rong Fu mill, which is very strong and rigid for around $1500. That included a nice precision vise, a collet set, and shipping. It's a very nice machine with plenty of travel.
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:42 PM #87
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Originally Posted by DmURdoCk101 View Post
instead of dropping around 17k for a new Bridgeport, the one guy at the place I work ( I work at a machine shop ) told me to get a conversion table for a drill press. It has a X and a Y that goes about 6-7 inches both ways and the table raises so it acts as a Z. for $35.00, does more than enough you would ever need to mill a gun or anything you would want to mill paintball wise.

if anyone wants pics I can go out and take some today.
Josh got it in one.

I did exactly what you wrote up before I got my mill/drill. I even modified my drill press to clamp the quill during cuts just like the mill/drills do. I used it for some wood working mortising and it worked excellent. I did some small jobs in aluminium and it was a disaster. Lots of chatter and I had to take very light cuts. I can't fathom how long it would take to completley mill over a big job or do something like a half block cocker mod. Basically it wouldn't. You'd be screaming for mercy or a painless death to end the suffering long before the milling was finished.

Add to that the fact that the Jacobs drill chucks do NOT hold the end mills even for light cuts. They are not intended for side loading and they all rattle loose before you do even a couple of inches of cutting at even the light cuts the drill press insists on. And even if you do get a morse taper end mill holder you need to figure out a way to hold it in place since the taper will also shake loose from the side loads.

I went through all this and found that if I'd known then what I know now I would not have even tried to modify my drill press other than perhaps for doing wood working.

Your buddy heard about this or thought of it but has obviously never tried it.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:23 PM #88
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Josh got it in one.

I did exactly what you wrote up before I got my mill/drill. I even modified my drill press to clamp the quill during cuts just like the mill/drills do. I used it for some wood working mortising and it worked excellent. I did some small jobs in aluminium and it was a disaster. Lots of chatter and I had to take very light cuts. I can't fathom how long it would take to completley mill over a big job or do something like a half block cocker mod. Basically it wouldn't. You'd be screaming for mercy or a painless death to end the suffering long before the milling was finished.

Add to that the fact that the Jacobs drill chucks do NOT hold the end mills even for light cuts. They are not intended for side loading and they all rattle loose before you do even a couple of inches of cutting at even the light cuts the drill press insists on. And even if you do get a morse taper end mill holder you need to figure out a way to hold it in place since the taper will also shake loose from the side loads.

I went through all this and found that if I'd known then what I know now I would not have even tried to modify my drill press other than perhaps for doing wood working.

Your buddy heard about this or thought of it but has obviously never tried it.

well he never used it, but i mean why spend even 1500 if your going to do something at your house ? chances are your not going to use it for that much other stuff unless your a real craftsmen and do wood stuff or other metal stuff, but I do agree with you guys when you say it does indeed chatter quite a bit. but with some sand paper it took out all my little scratches from chatter and I was able to do this with mine...



not showing every little thing and close up but its was a big once I finished it. and I only baught mine to do my guns and if I really wanted it dont " professinally" i'd just take it to work and have one of the machinest do it there.
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:50 AM #89
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You did all that with a drill press mill mod? My hat is off to you! Even if your drill was more tolerant than my own I imagine you felt your teeth rattle a lot during that much milling. Nice work!
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:00 AM #90
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You did all that with a drill press mill mod? My hat is off to you! Even if your drill was more tolerant than my own I imagine you felt your teeth rattle a lot during that much milling. Nice work!
thank you, this is why I didn't see a point in spending all that money, I just just as good as a job for a fraction of the price.
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:44 PM #91
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DmURdoCk101, I'm glad this worked out for you. But like I said here and in another thread I'd rather use hand tools than the drill press milling mod.

There's an older thread on what I did to modify my own drill press.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ress+mil ling

For anyone that is considering modifying a drill press....

What about the time and knowledge needed to get the drill press modified to do this work? It took me a lot of running around and trying things. And in the end it still sucked. I had the stuff needed to do milling jobs but didn't bother using it except in the most desparate of circumstances because it was such a pain. I used hand tools instead. And it's not about time either. In most, if not all, of the cases where I chose hand tools over the drill press milling I did it faster and just as accuratley. I've done a lot of this over the years and picked up the skills thru practice and reading. But we all have to start somewhere...

Here's some of the reasons why I don't like the drill press table milling machine mod....

The drill press and x-y tables don't have any or don't have usable indexing numbers on the feed screws. This makes it impossible to do any sort of accurate work. If you need to take off 4 thou there's no way to set that level of cut accurately other than by good luck.

Many drill presses do not have a method of pinching the quill to lock it in place. These just use a locking collar on the handle assembly to limit depth of drilling. THis means the quill is free to wiggle in the head of the machine and that leads to a LOT Of chatter and very poor quality cuts. I ended up drilling and tapping my own drill press so I could use two jam screws to hold it. But it was still a chatterbox. The quill bearings and shaft in a drill press are far smaller than on even a small milling machine. This means they have play and flex that are impossible to control. This only shows up in side loading and interrupted cuts found in milling.

There ARE some x-y tables with these indicator dials but a table like that costs as much as the small milling machines or close to it. And that still doesn't give you an accurate control on the depth of cut.

My advice to anyone that really wants to mill using a machine and thinks they want to do this as a hobby on it's own right is to jump right in and get one of the proper setups as indicated in the first few posts of this thread.

SO what to do if you only want to do a one time job here and there? Frankly I would say that you're better off to buy some good hand tools and learn a few simple skills. Get some aluminium electrical conduit and use that to practice on. Once you can do nice work then jump into your body mods. My drill press milling experience has shown me that it's far better to spend an hour at LAYING OUT, then drilling and hacksawing and finally filing and sanding than it is to try to use the drill press mod. Note the caps on that "LAYING OUT" part. Properly laying out fine ink lines or scribed scratch lines to cut to is a very important part of hand work. There's books at the library about basic shop skills for laying out and hand tool techniques. Maybe it's time to tear ourselves away from the Internet and check out the local library.
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Old 05-03-2007, 05:03 PM #92
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i wouldnt even bother trying to mod a drill press. they arent made to make horizontal cuts, simply put, they work like **** for milling.

what i did was i went out and bought a mini mill. all together it cost me 600 (with 2 vises, 3 end mills, 2 collets, and a 1 year warranty on the mill) yes i know it doesnt have that much travel but it works amazing for what im using it for.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:34 PM #93
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Hell Of a start there Dead!!!
Couple of things I would like to add...
So you go and empty your bank acount out and buy yourself a nice mill,tooling and vice. Look out "dye" move over "angel"..."fill in name" has a mill.
The FIRST thing you should do once you get your mill set up is lock up every marker you own!! go to your local scrap yard and see what you can find for junk aluminium. A mill is a great machine once you know what your doing, but nothing turns your marker into a large chunk of alloy scrap faster. One screw up with a end mill turning 2000+rpm and its history!
Also just to be a old fart here get a face shield not just safety glasses but a nice full face tilt up shield. those alloy chips that fly off are sharp and moving quick.
True story, One of our guys was hogging out a alloy block for a job. Really moving a lot of metal per pass of the cutter, the chips were flying all over. He was standing by the mill when one of the chips cut open his neck 2" long. It missed his jugular vein by about 1/2". He was wearing glasses to protect his eyes but a face shield would have stopped a trip to hospital.
Also you want to go and get a gallon or 2 of WD-40 and spray the cutter and work with it almost constantly while milling. Aluninium has a nasty habit of sticking to tools.
One more thing GO SLOW take off only a small amount of metal per pass. A little and often is the rule!! this will give you a much nicer finish to the cut and reduce tool chatter.
not to be rude or anything but r u nuts wd 40 has water in it and will make stell and castiron rust in no time what you need is crc or cool tool

cool tool for the cutting crc for re oiling the table and keepin steel parts nice and shiney

and man i wish those cnc s were cheap but i can only dream

hey 15 yrld with skills on the lathe and mill lokin for a job im talkin like +/-0.002
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:43 PM #94
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not to be rude or anything but r u nuts wd 40 has water in it and will make stell and castiron rust in no time what you need is crc or cool tool

cool tool for the cutting crc for re oiling the table and keepin steel parts nice and shiney

and man i wish those cnc s were cheap but i can only dream

hey 15 yrld with skills on the lathe and mill lokin for a job im talkin like +/-0.002
im pretty sure nelspot knows what he is talking about

by law you cant work with machines till your over 18 right?? i dont think u could get a job working with that kind of machinery at 15 years of age.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:48 PM #95
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Wd 40 is perfect for milling aluminum, and assuming you wash it off with warm water, and blow it off with compressed air, then lube before firing, It will be fine.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:37 PM #96
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not to be rude or anything but r u nuts wd 40 has water in it and will make stell and castiron rust in no time what you need is crc or cool tool

cool tool for the cutting crc for re oiling the table and keepin steel parts nice and shiney

and man i wish those cnc s were cheap but i can only dream

hey 15 yrld with skills on the lathe and mill lokin for a job im talkin like +/-0.002

WD40 is an excellent cutting fluid for aluminum. It's used very widely in the machining industry just for that. The fact that you don't know that makes your machining knowledge a little questionable. A coolant containing water doesn't matter. The coolants used in most CNC machines are usually over 95% water. Cutting fluid/coolant is used to extend tool life, prevent galling, produce better finishes, ect. It isn't intended to prevent rust. I think it's funny that you say "but r u nuts" because someone recommended WD40 as a cutting fluid, then brag about your skills. I have a degree in machining. I teach CNC machining part time at a technical college. I recommend wd40. My instructors in college recommended wd40. Old school machinists will recommend wd40. Are they all nuts?

BTW, at 15 no real business could hire you to operate machines. If you are lucky, you may get a job sweeping up chips though.

What does +/-.002 have to do with anything?

BTW....WD40 doesn't even contain water.

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Old 05-09-2007, 10:43 PM #97
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lol. +/-.002" isnt to hard with a cnc...
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:44 PM #98
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It isn't hard with a manual.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:48 PM #99
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indeed.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:54 PM #100
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Josh, where are you based? Itd be cool to learn cnc from ya. We dug up a little cnc machine at school that we have been messin around with, but other than that.. Im clueless asfar as cnc goes..
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:13 PM #101
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I'm North Alabama. It would be a long commute for you....lol
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:29 AM #102
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Josh, where are you based? Itd be cool to learn cnc from ya. We dug up a little cnc machine at school that we have been messin around with, but other than that.. Im clueless asfar as cnc goes..
Learn manual first. It will help immensly.
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:08 AM #103
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Agreed. I'd say it's almost essential to being a good CNC machinist.
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:50 PM #104
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It isn't hard with a manual.
yea i know but i was reffering more to cutting steel with wd 40 itll rust up in no time sry for the confusion

i learned on bridgeport as well and im now using hass stuff
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Old 05-10-2007, 01:53 PM #105
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im pretty sure nelspot knows what he is talking about

by law you cant work with machines till your over 18 right?? i dont think u could get a job working with that kind of machinery at 15 years of age.
yes nelspot know what hes talking about

oo and the hole 18 yrs old bit some shops hire younger on accont of being in a vocational school
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