[Sluggzs]

Ok, I bought an E-Force Trigger frame and put it on a Pirhana GSX and a PMI US-P. It wasn't working and I shot a video to explain. If you know what the problem is please let me know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxvUh9BgZY0

[plushdragon]

saw your video. if that e-frame is still using the older stock pmi board and cap then you may have a bad cap in the frame or a lose connection.before you take the frame apart make sure your using good 9v batteries. the older stock pmi batery (green ones) if the voltage output was not up to the board spec you get what your video showed.the cap/sear working when there was right amount of voltage to pull/release the sear. some thing to check. look at the stock frame and the eframe sear hight and frame screws.they should be the same hight sticking out of the frame.check both hammers to see if there cut the same or are cut to deep. also check to see if the hammer bolt pin is sticking up to high and holding the bolt/hammer.with the frame off you should be able to slide the bolt freely.with the eframe off the marker you should see it move every time you pull or hold the trigger.if it still clicking look down the top of the frame with it off the gun and see if the two boards and cables are connected.if they are then the cap on the frame may be bad or weak. it the cap on the e-fram that gives the board and the eletro sear the power to shoot.

[plushdragon]

here a photo of a copy of the e-frame board.
http://www.scenariodreams.com/productpages/piranha.htm
also check to see if the micro switch that next to the cap is not being crushed by the trigger or and trigger springs.the gold part on the page is the eletro sear that will let the sear go on an eframe. on a pmi board the cap needed to be that big to power it. there still a few of those board out there on ebay and other web pages ross (the boss will tell you if you got a working board you were lucky.)

[Sluggzs]

I believe I fixed it, but I won't really know untill after some good solid trigger time. But I tested maybe 50 shots and they were all good. The metal sear had a small lip formed from constant metal connection that i shaved off it. Also, I clipped the spring that pushed the sear up into the bolt. So I'm thinking the metal lip was just sitting high enough to keep a little metal to stop the internals from cycling.