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Old 02-26-2007, 07:14 PM #1
bequickorbedead
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Spyder Pump Action Conversion

A spyder pump is not like a cocker pump. A spyder pump has a semi automatic striker and the bolt is simply to load the ball. This is a relatively easy conversion, and this is the most detailed tutorial on it made to date. While files and hacksaws can be substituted for a dremel, i recommend the dremel. You will be happier with the results. With that said, let's get this thing underway!!!

This, everyone, is a spyder aggressor. It is the gun i will be using for the conversion.


However, mine is not a new shiny one like that, we are actually dealing with a gun a little more like this.


As you can see, the gun has seen better days. The beavertail is bent AND broken, the stock barrel is completely gone, the trigger frame broke, and it was stripped of all internals. My friend and i stripped it to build me up a gun, currently viewable in the spyder of the month. I used a stock top cocking bolt for this because the rear cocking one is in a mech fenix somewhere. The advantage to that was that i have a cocking pin for the striker mod.


In this conversion, you will need a mech spyder, along with the following:

-dremel, and the following attatchments:
~a few cut off wheels, i like the fiberglass
~sanding cylinders, large and small
~#191 high speed cutter (came with my dremel, its a sphere on a stick with spiraled cuts on the sphere
-3/4" PVC pipe, about 6 inches long
-can of your favorite 8.3oz energy drink (or something else to make the handle, i couldnt find anything so i used the red bull can. you will only need the pvc pipe if you are doing the can.)
-drill
-3/8" drill bit (its a big son of a *****)
-duct tape or masking tape
-gorilla glue
-jb weld or epoxy
-a wire coat hanger (toughest you can find)
-an extra detent (if planning on doing the barrel detent mod)
-something to use as a cocking pin/ pin from a top cocking bolt (if doing the striker mod, and unless you are using a compact)
-PATIENCE


Remember, sparks will fly, so use safety glasses, and if u dont have em use wrap around sunglasses like these.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:15 PM #2
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Bolt And Striker Prep

First, place the bolt in the gun and hold it with the striker pin right along th back, like this.


Mark a line on the pin about 2mm below the base of the top tube, and cut it off at this line with the dremel. Now using the Gorilla Glue, glue the pin into the striker so about 2mm stick out the top. Gorilla Glue swells like mad, so you will need a sharp knife to remove excess once it is dry. You should be left with this.


Now take the bolt and put it into the gun in the top tube, as far forward as it will go for the next step.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:16 PM #3
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Making The Pump Rod

Using the dremel, cut off the long base of the wire coat hanger. Make sure it is a strong hanger, and that this base bar is straight. Sorry about the lack of pics on this step, i kind of forgot. Put the hanger into the tube so the end touches the top right section of the bolt, and bend it with some pliers so it lies in the recess between the top and bottom tubes on the left side of the gun.

You should have something like this.



Now slide the bolt back until the air hole on teh bottom of the bolt is lined up with the air hole from the valve area, basically where you want the bolt to be when the marker fires. Using the dremel, cut off material from this end...

... until when you put the rod in it goes like this.


What this will do it make it so that the bolt can only go as far forward as so the holes line up.


Now tape the pump rod in place, so it touches the upper right of the bolt back, and place the PVC pipe on the front end of it, with whatever barrel you are going to be using on the gun. Bend the front of the rod so the PVC pipe can fit on it without touching the barrel.


You may also want to bend it on an angle in so the handle will be centered below the barrel.


You are now done with the rod, it should look something like this.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:18 PM #4
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Finishing The Bolt-Pump Rod Setup

Take the 191 cutter on the dremel (it's actually an engraving bit) and mill out a recess for the rod in the back of the bolt.

^You can kind of see it, my camera couldn't get a good pic.

Put the bolt in the gun, leaving it sticking out about 3 inches, and put the pump rod on so it lies in the recess. Secure the part of the bold nearest the receiver to the receiver itsself with some duct tape, and make sure you tape the rod down as well so they stay together.

Using Gorilla Glue, glue the rod into the recess of the bolt, keeping it in the body so the angle is correct. Make sure they are clamped together.

^While using the aluminum wire and the pipe wrench may have been overkill, it can't hurt to clamp it too hard.

Let the glue dry for a day, as you should with all Gorilla Glue projects. When you remove the bolt after it is dry, you should have it firmly glued in.


Congratulations, you have finished the pump action bolt.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:19 PM #5
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Making The Pump Handle

If you are planning to make one out of wood or plastic or something other than an energy drink can, skip this post.

If not, read on!

Here's my pump handle.


You can use any can as long as it is the 8.3oz size. They actually make really comfortable handles.

Now i realized it would look sweet if the can was still unopened, and the top was facing forward, so i took the dremel wheel and cut a few slots in the bottom.


Now if you are using Amp, Adrenaline Rush, or any other drink, shake it up and it will fizz up and spray out, but it is a sin to waste Red Bull .

Hold it over a cup, and let it drain out.


Almost there.


Done. Red Bull with metal shavings in it tastes just as good as Red Bull without metal shavings in it.
Drink up!


Now take the cut off wheel and cut out the bottom, it doesn't need to look nice.


Using the larger sanding cylinder, smooth it out and make it full width. These things will almost melt through the thin aluminum at a speed of 7 or higher.

RINSE THE CAN OUT WELL!!!

Now, use a cut off wheel to cut the PVC pipe down to a length that will fit inside the can and be flush to the side


Use the wheel to "mill" a slot in it about 3 inches long to be safe. Do this by holding it at the angle shown and grinding away at it more than cutting it.


You should end up with this.


Mark off, on the edge of the can shown, the width of the milled slot in the pipe.


Use the thin sanding cylinder to take out a chunk there so the rod will be able to go in.


JB Weld the pipe into the can so the slots line up as shown.


Now for strength, what I did was to stuff the can with rags...

...seal off the top with hot glue...

...and then stuff and seal the PVC pipe.


At this point, you are technically done. The only other thing you will need is to put some sort of ring on the front of the handle that will fit over the barrel to provide support so the weight of the handle does not bend the pump rod. I will show this in the final picture and video. After that, you can coat the front end of the pump rod in Gorilla Glue and then put it into the slot on the handle where the Gorilla Glue will expand and fill the area, and then assemble the marker as usual.

-OR-

You could continue to scroll down and check out the two optional mods.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:22 PM #6
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Optional Striker Cocking Mod

This mod requires A LOT of patience, and i am warning that unless you are a pro it will not look good. It is, however, very practical.

Put the striker on the recess between the two tubes of the body and move it forward to the point that the front of the striker is lined up with the valve roll pin. Mark the lower tube at about halfway down the striker. Using the fiberglass cut off wheels, cut a slot about 1/4" wide all the way to this point, midway up the lower tube all the way to the back. I will try to make some pictures in paint that show this in better detail.


Now drill a hole through the striker perpendicular to the pin coming out the top, a hole just as wide as whatever you are using as the cocking pin.

NOTE: Strikers are HARD!! You WILL break MULTIPLE drill bits in the attempt to get through it, but in the end it's worth it.

JB Weld the pin in the hole on the striker.


Let it dry for at least 15 hours, there will be alot of stress on thsi part so i let it dry for 2 full days.
Congrats!! You now have a pump striker.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:23 PM #7
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Optional Barrel Detent Mod

In a semi auto, the bolt stays open and then closes when it fires, pushing hte ball past the detent. In this pump, the bolt closes well before firing, so you need some other method of keeping the ball in the gun once it has been pushed past the detent.

Take a detent made for a round body spyder, and cut it in half.


File it down so the cut edge is tangent to the edge of the piece that the ball is on, the round part that goes into the hole.

Now drill a hole in the barrel so the hole is tangent to the end of the barrel.


Epoxy or JB Weld the detent into the hole.


Screw the barrel on and then put the pump rod on. You may need to file down the edge of the detent depending on where it lines up in relation to the rod.

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:26 PM #8
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Closing Statements

You've cut, bent, ground away and glued, and after all that, what do you end up with???

In the words of Emeril...


...




...




...


BAM!


This is the finished product. To attatch the can, coat the end of the rod in Gorilla Glue and put Gorilla Glue in the hole, then insert the rod (please no one say "that's what she said"). The swelling of the glue will seal it in there very well. This pump arm is not as tough as a phantom or a maverick or a hammer, but it works. As you can see, i put a lil brass ring i found near the front of the body as a pump rod guide, and a ring around the barrel attatched to the can. The former is an option, the latter is a necessity. I will try to get avideo up in a few days, as soon as i get some air. I have to thank PBgrandpa and Mike0311 for their donations. PBgrandpa gave me a trigger frame and Mike gave me a backplate and field strip pin. Thanks guys for helping out with the project. So go out, get yourselves a can, and start pumping away!!

Last edited by bequickorbedead : 02-27-2007 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:13 PM #9
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Not a big fan of gluing the bolt to the rod, but otherwise good work.
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:15 PM #10
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ya, u could technically gorilla glue it so it stays in position and then coat the joint in JB weld. i think im gonna do that actually and then edit the post.
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:18 PM #11
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Do the bolt system cocker half block style.

Rod connected to sled, bolt connected to sled using bolt pin!
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:19 PM #12
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Nice job.
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:21 PM #13
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STICKY !@!! nice easy conversion.
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:24 PM #14
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i think i might smell a sticky
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:53 PM #15
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Wow... kinda makes me want to make a better one (hint hint)

Good work, one of the few people who can motivate me


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Old 02-27-2007, 07:08 PM #16
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excellent job mann. this screams "STICKY ME!!!"
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:09 PM #17
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:21 PM #18
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pm?

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Old 02-27-2007, 07:24 PM #19
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say a guy were to get a different barrel for this pump... how wud the detents work then?
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:48 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyr6831 View Post
say a guy were to get a different barrel for this pump... how wud the detents work then?
what a stupid question, they wont.

Just get a barrel kit, basicaly like puting detents on a cocker, pointless. Barrel kit FTW.

EDIT:
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:54 PM #21
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