since Ronnie is lazy and wont take the time to learn how to use a sniper, im gonna go ahead and type up some things that can help you set up your sniper
first some basic information about what is required to make a sniper work
1. With stock springs, your input pressure should be 400 PSI, this requires a regulator (Last time I checked, an actual stock WGP sniper 2 has no reg, and runs at 700-800psi)
2. in general, higher pressure on the reg increases velocity (although the velocity should only be raised until the velocity stops increasing, called sweetspotting). once the regulator is sweetspotted according to the valve spring, the velocity can be fine tuned by adjusting or swapping the hammer spring. (adjusted with the IVG)
3. the IVG is the thing you stick a 3/16 allen into to adjust the velocity, clockwise (right) increases, counter-clockwise (left) decreases.
4. to swap/install valve parts/springs, you will need a cocker valve tool. place the valve jam nut on the valve tool, then the valve body with the big hole facing up, and the valve pin inside that, with the plastic larger end at the top (so the pin goes inside the valve). place the small valve spring into the lower tube, with the larger end going in first. align the parts on the valve tool with the spring so the spring sits on the valve pin correctly, and slide the whole assembly carefully into the gun. the oring on the valve body should of course be lubed before doing this. once you can see the cross hole in the valve body through the valve screw hole in the bottom of the body, align it carefully with an allen key, while screwing the entire valve assembly in with the valve tool. once its nearly tightened fully, install the valve screw which locks the valve body from rotating, being careful not to crush the valve body (it must be aligned properly and screwed in far enough to line up). once thats in, you can fully tighten the lock nut with the valve tool, and now the valve is in. installing the hammer/mainspring/ivg is straightforward, remember when removing the hammer to count say, 3 turns to unscrew the lug, then screw it back in the same as not to lose your lug setting.
5. There are two types of front block screws, pre 2k and post 2k. Post 2k are BIG threads and hole (about 1/2" roughly), Pre 2k are small and narrow (about 1/4" roughly).
6. A SNIPER IS A CLOSED BOLT GUN, meaning that if your paint doesnt match your barrel, it will roll out. some quick fixes are a piece of tape inside the barrel, or nail polish. OR, get a palmers wedgit barrel, which requires no bore matching but holds the paint from rolling with detents.
HOW TO SWEETSPOT A REG
if you get a new gun out of the box, or a new reg, or a new spring setup, you are going to want to sweetspot your reg
to do this,
1. screw your IVG in or out until its roughly in the middle of its adjustment range.
2. increase the regs pressure until the chrono velocity stops increasing, this is the regs sweetspot. if the velocity is much too high (or low) to be adjusted in good range with the ivg, swap valve spring. harder valve spring will drop velocity range, lighter valve spring will raise velocity range.
3. Fine tune using the IVG. ideally the reg should remain at sweetspot and only serve as an emergency velocity adjustment.
NOTES: a. NEVER, i repeat NEVER shoot above 300 FPS. it is UNSAFE
(more specifically against the rules)
also, good to chrono with paint matching the barrel, chrono with smaller balls and you may shoot over speed with tighter ammo.
Snipers are reliable guns, but maintenance is still recommended to maintain optimum performance. the breech and barrel should always be kept as clean as possible, as well as your hopper/feeder of course. trigger parts should be cleaned and lubed occasionally. to lube the regulator and valve, you can put a few drops of marker oil into the asa, gas up and dry fire for a while. this is standard procedure for mechanical guns, but always works great. be sure to clean out the barrel after as some oil may end up there. generally a sniper doesnt need much lubrication but its important to keep the moving parts clean and lightly oiled.
common problems addressed:
Gun leaks out barrel when cocked and uncocked, usually making a sound like a dying giraffe:
the valve is stuck or the valve oring is dead, thus the gun is holding no gas. remove the valve, replace valve oring, check cupseal for damage, ensure valve assembly is installed correctly.
Gun leaks out the barrel after every shot until I cock it, usually sounds like hissing:
the hammer is pushing the valve open slightly, you may need to choose a harder valve spring, back off the ivg, or increase reg pressure.
Gun Leaks out of the pump kit:
lube the orings on the pump kit (a little teflon tape never hurt anyone either), and tighten it up properly.
Gun will not cock:
the lug is too high. to adjust the lug, take out your bolt, get a 7/64 allen and stick it in the hole on top of your gun. move the cocking rod around until you find the lug screw, right for down, left for up.
Guns velocity is WAY too low:
sweetspot your reg as mentioned above, increase pressure etc.
My gun makes a wierd pop or burp when it fires:
Snipers sometimes make funny noises, depending on the valve used. consider it a defining character and an easy sound identifier on the field between pumpers
*Changes by ApoC_101*