What is the difference between the regular Angel One and the Rage and Joy Division Angel Ones?
There is no difference internally. The only difference is cosmetics (milling and color).
My Angel One eats batteries like they are nothing, how can I lengthen the battery life?
Every electronic paintabll marker will eat batteries if they are left in the gun continuously. First, update to the newest software. When you are not playing, remove the battery from the marker. Also, use HIGH QUALITY batteries, the MTs recommend Duracell or the like.
What type of barrel threads does the Angel One use?
The Angel One uses the same barrel threads as the G7 Fly and 06 Speed series; however, the shank on the barrel is shortened, so if you use G7 Fly barrel threads on the Angel One a small portion of the barrel threads may stick out 1/16-3/16 of an inch. To compensate for this, WDP included a golden ring, entitled "the Beauty Ring" to "hide" this gap. It will have no effect on performance, it is purely cosmetics. Now most companies, such as Stiffi, are producing barrels made specifically for the Angel One.
My breach knob opens by itself what can I do to prevent this?
If you have a breach oring for a lcd,ir3 or led remove the knob, insert this oring on the ram shaft against the ram body and reinstall the knob. works like a charm.
My velocity is low and I have the correct settings what should I do?
Double check all settings and pressures, and then examine your exhaust valve stem. It is probably worn out and needs to be replaced with the new generation stem.
My eye covers keep breaking how can I prevent this?
Make sure you have the thicker "new generation" eye straps (the 3-piece eye covers) Follow instructions listed above for proper removal (see #8).
My Angel One leaks and I don't know how to fix it?
See http://www.wdp.tv/leaks/leak-diagnosis.html for further help in fixing your problem.
My Angel One will not ramp what is problem?
Be sure you have the newest (2.2) software, be sure your eyes are on and that you are using paint. The Angel One will not ramp with EYES OFF. Finally, make sure that your Kick-in is set higher than the drop out
When I shoot my Angel One every so often the bolt with stick forward, what is the problem?
First check your exhaust valve stem and make sure that is good. Make sure your breach has not been misaligned and/or made contact with the body causing a dent or mark on the body. Put some love juice on the valve stem and see if that helps. Additionally, check the breech seal and make sure it is all the way down, when hot outside, the breech seal can "raise up" and cause bolt stick. Replace if necessary.
Why is my Angel One double and triple feeding?
Check your detents and upgrade to the newer style (RED) detents.
It seems like my Angel Kicks more than it should and isn't the greatest on efficiency, what can I do to help with this?
Check your settings and make sure they are the optimal settings listed above, and a "newer" LIGHTER Ram can be purchased from www.fixmyangel.com or www.performanceangel.com it will aid with the "kick" and efficiency.
When I pull my trigger slow it seems to bounce, how can I avoid this?
The fact is that any electronic marker can be slow pulled and achieve full auto this is called "sweet spotting"; however, it is not an easy thing to find and may take many attempts to locate this sweet spot. If the refs know what they are doing they will not pull the marker for bounce. Also, your trigger adjustment has a great deal to do with any kind of bounce you may have. See the following post: http://www.angel-owners.com/showthread.php?t=63234
My Angel One bounces and I have my Debounce maxed out, what can I do to correct this?
All problems associated with bounce can be attributed to POOR TRIGGER SETUP. You need to readjust your trigger in a manner so that it does not bounce. It is better to have a longer trigger pull than a short one. Also, adjust your magnetic tension and go from there.
How can I shoot brittle paint just like Joy does?
*Original posted by Fargbollen*
"So, you forgot to buy paint for the weekend practice, all the shops are sold out or closed and all you got left is that old super brittle cold-damaged half-a-box from last year you were going to throw away. We've all been there (well, some of us anyway ).
Before the Angel One I'd say man give up and just stay home, but if you have an A1 you actually still have a chance."
"Here's what you do:
- Download and flash software v2.1
- Set paint type to Brittle 1
- Do a paint to barrel match. Brittle paint can break from even just a little too tight barrels and balls may have become misshaped so they need a bigger bore. Re-do the barrel match again to make sure.
- Check detents. A1 Detents need to be looked after and if they break or wear out you will doublefeed and break paint a lot. If available always have some spare detents in your kit.
- Set hopper to as soft as it'll go.
I suggest Vlocity at lowest, Pulse at low force (adjusted on the small green board on the underside of the tray) or simply use any EVOII, Revo, Riccochet or TSA.
Set Reloader B2 at lowest ball pressure. If you insist on using a Reloader B1 try Speed 1 and pray it won't bug out and free-feed.
Note that HALO B will simply not work with this brittle paint, even with Victory board. People ho say they do are plain lying or not acutally using really brittle paint.
These are extreme low settings for emergency use of "unplayable" paint, you won't have amazing firepower, but you will be able to play with paint that other guns can't even use. Now, I can't promise it'll work for you 100% but it did for me so it could be worth a try."
INSTALLING THE PULSE RF CHIP ON THE ANGEL ONE
*Warning, doing this will void your warranty, and it could destroy your board!*
**Quoted from jt526**
Workaround for the RF chip Pulse issue on A1
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Sorry if anyone has posted this before, or someone else solved the problem, but I just got an A1 and a Pulse this thursday and had to solve the RF chip issue at a 24 hour game this weekend, otherwise I would have been really ticked that it worked on my IR3 and not the new A1. Anyway, to get the RF chip to work on an A1 you need a 3 dollar part at radioshack.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
(after thinking about it, someone should try using a transistor, it is probably a better, smaller, more elegant solution, if any one finds one that works, let me know, thanks, Jake)
Wire relay in parallel to solenoid circuit, wire 9V straightfrom the battery in series with rf chip using the switched circuit on the relay. Basically the old intellifeed halo idea, only this time you're firing off the rf chip, not the loader itself. Pulse chip fits into space at top of grip resting on board, and you can fit relay sort of between the usb port, and the battery, but it only barely fits and slightly deflects the USB port about 1 mm, and right now the grips bulge out a hair. If you can't figure out how to wire the circuit I've described above, you probably shouldn't be soldering on the board, no offense.
Pull trigger, noid output trip noids and trips the reed relay, relay dumps 9v from bat through chip. Pulse loader turns. Problem solved.
There may be better ways to fit the parts, or smaller relays available, but I shot 3.5 cases through the setup over 2 days, with no issues whatsoever, and as soon as I get some heatshrink tubing for the wiring harness, I'll be trying to fit the parts a little better.
Pics of the different parts. Still working fine.
Pic 1 - Side shot of shaving off of RF chip
Pic 2 - Sloppy first try with chip in body cavity
Pic 3 - Wiring harness, under the elec tape is the reed relay, could still use some shortening of the wires, but I am lazy
Pic 4 - second try, slightly repositioning of reed relay, doesn't interfere with switch/trigger, but it certainly looks like it does. Relay does not interfere with grip cheeks at all, no bulging or pressure on the board.
Pic 5 - top shot of shaved rf, need to shave it so it doesn't hit the solenoid connector on board when tightening grip frame.
Grey/white wires are old IR3 intellifeed, but I am pretty sure that Wake on Lan connectors for network boards are identical, or you could tap directly into solenoid wires.
**NOTE**Information and pictures have been obtained from
www.angel-owners.com and
www.wdp.tv and various other sources.
