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Old 02-26-2014, 01:05 PM #1
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Automag (Hyper/X-valve) - Should I fix or sell/trade?

Hello everyone,

I'm breaking out some old gear and getting back into the sport. When I stopped playing in around 2004 I was on the verge of dumping my Automag. When it ran it was wonderful and I loved it...but, I found that the hyperframe was very finicky and largely unreliable.

Finicky: during shooting it would occasionally just stop firing and I would have to take the marker apart to fix it. It was very difficult to get the air tank off as there was still pressure in the marker. I feel that it was either something with the hyper solenoid and/or on/off interaction with the solenoid. The only other thing I could come up with was that the board is malfunctioning.

Some contributing factors outside the hyperframe could be the x-valve, ULE trigger or level 10 bolt (unlikely?).

With that, last weekend I broke out my mag oiled it up and checked all the o-rings I could see. After I put a compressed air tank on it I got 4-5 shots out and was immediately excited. Then... it just stopped working. Like the days of old and I was instantly frustrated. I think some of my old frustrations started to emerge as I was relegated to using a marker from someone else. I purchased a LV1 this week and want to meet some objectives.

Objectives: 1) good back up marker. 2) Ease of objective #1 through either fixing the mag or dumping it and getting another mid grade marker (Axe comes to mind).

I have some attachment to the Automag as it was my first semi marker. (started on pumps back in the day) If I can fix it so that the lower frame is reliable (because I think that's the problem?) and can keep up with modern markers (not outshine persay) then I would prefer that route. It meets my intent as a decent back up marker.

What are the communities thoughts? (edit: unbiased)

Should I:

1) Fix the hyperframe? What do you think I should do to fix it? Someone that knows mags willing to test / repair?

2) Put an entirely different electronic frame on the mag? If this option where and what frame?

3) **Sell (dump) my mag and get a more modern marker?

**I know this isn't the "what is it worth" section but BALL PARK figures on value with my set up (See attached photo) if you recommend a sell.

Thanks in advance for any input or advice. I have included a photo of my automag set up (stuff). I have a fair amount of bolts and parts.

Regards,
Mike
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Last edited by Deathstalkr : 02-26-2014 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:54 PM #2
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:59 PM #3
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the problems are all in the hyperframe, not the Xvalve or L10. while decent for the times, they are highly antiquated towards today's time. the biggest thing is within the on/off. if i remember correctly, hyperframes require a special on/off top and pin to work reliably. you can contact BigEvil as he has worked on Hyperframes before with good success. plus, he can make a Mag in any form sing.

if it was me, a X valve with a pneumag setup will dance rings around that. all you would do is take off the Hyperframe and slap on a ULE double trigger. if fact, i would do it anyway. that would tell you if the problems that you are having are within the frame or the L10 and X valve. its just a simple process of elimination.

so don't give up on the gun, nor sell it till you talk to BigEvil. his praises are worth the price to fix it.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:58 PM #4
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fix it up and shoot it, but I agree I would ditch the hyper frame for a ule frame.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:16 PM #5
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Hey guys. Thanks for the input. I contacted bigevil on automag.org via PM. Maybe he will have some feedback for me.

Respectfully,
Mike
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:25 AM #6
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who are you on AO? same name? but it is better to contact BigEvil on AO than here.
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:07 AM #7
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Oh man don't get rid of the Hyperframe. I have played several tournaments with hypermags and had great success with the same setup you are playing with. A little tuning and maybe moving the noid a little could help.

The issue with the on/off you are talking about is a common one, but I never considered it a problem. Whats happening is that the pin in the ULT is so small and only needs to move a small amount so somtimes a little pressure will stay in the valve and leave the pin just far enough out that it wont get free from the body and the noid won't click the sear far enough to push the pin in the small amount it needs to go to clear the body.

One quick solution I have seen is cutting a small slit in the body from the on/off hole to the back of the body. That way the pin can slide through the body and out the back. Another option I used to do was use a pick and pull the sear back farther through the safety hole, but it looks like you have your safety in there so that won't work for you.

You can always get a mech frame as a back up, but I'm a fan of the hyperframe even if they are old and not as modern compared to other fames now-a-days. But honestly a mag is a solid paintball gun when you put a little time into getting it set right.

I would be more then happy to help fix up your hypermag and get it working at it's best. I have spare boards and parts incase something really is wrong. I could tune your valve, on/off and frame if you'd like. BigEvil is a good resource as well, but if he's not free then hit me up here or on AO under the same username.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:46 AM #8
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Don't cut the body there should be a hole in the back of the frame so you can push the sear with an Allen key.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:14 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demented pumper View Post
Don't cut the body there should be a hole in the back of the frame so you can push the sear with an Allen key.
How would a small slit in the back of the body effect being able to push the sear down with an allen key? I did this to a body a long time ago and didn't have issues, but did I miss something?
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:27 AM #10
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there is no need to cut a slit in a perfectly fine body if there is a hole in the back of the frame. the hole is there so you can push the sear the rest of the way so the valve can be removed. even if there isn't a hole in that spot i would consider drilling one.

next i was considering buying the gun as he mentioned he might sell it and would prefer not to have a slit cut in it and that will also reflect the price i would be willing to pay for it.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:56 AM #11
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Although it wouldn't effect anything and you won't see it there is still a value issue by cutting the slit... makes sense. Well if you talk him into selling you the package and you need any help or parts for the hyperfame then let me know.
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:25 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobody609 View Post
who are you on AO? same name? but it is better to contact BigEvil on AO than here.
Nobody, I have contacted BigEvil on AO. I created an account on there with the same username I am using here. I have sent him several photos and he is working with me at this time. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8ermog View Post
(cut)...I would be more then happy to help fix up your hypermag and get it working at it's best. I have spare boards and parts incase something really is wrong. I could tune your valve, on/off and frame if you'd like. BigEvil is a good resource as well, but if he's not free then hit me up here or on AO under the same username.
Sk8ermog, thanks for the assistance. If I need any help I will let you know!

Thanks again to all for your input.

Respectfully,

Mike
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:30 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8ermog View Post
....

The issue with the on/off you are talking about is a common one, but I never considered it a problem. Whats happening is that the pin in the ULT is so small and only needs to move a small amount so somtimes a little pressure will stay in the valve and leave the pin just far enough out that it wont get free from the body and the noid won't click the sear far enough to push the pin in the small amount it needs to go to clear the body. ...
Sk8ermog, This seems like what is happening. It just will stop shooting and then I can't get it to degas or fire. Kind of scary IMO.

BigEvil is already talking about the on/off and I think he has a solution. So, it is likely that issue in his mind as well.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:36 PM #14
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just saw your "hello" post on beo. welcome back to the fold
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