Well they work, at least with the WAS board I've been testing with, so like I promised here is a HOWTO with all the info you need to make your own. Total cost for 1 set of eyes is like $10, not including the harness.
First thing you need are the parts and a few tools.
* Emitter is a GREEN LED
from Clairex.com that goes into the 530nm wavelength. Part number for green is CLE535. Red LEDs part number is CLE435. Blue LEDs part number is CLE536 (but still untested). $3.00 each.
* Detector is a Phototransistor made by Panasonic that doesn't have the day light filter on it and reads down into the upper 400nm wavelength with great response times. You can get it from Digikey, part number PNA1401L-ND. $3.50 each.
Next you need an exacto knife, a soldering iron and a bit of heat shrink wrap. You can get all of this stuff from your local hardware store. DON'T FORGET TO GET THE HEAT SHRINK, it's going to protect the leads and keep your eyes from malfunctioning (ya it's there for a purpose).
Lastly, you need an eye harness to put the new eyes on. Duh.
Everything you need:
Strip the heat shrink off the existing eyes with your exacto knife. The easiest way is to run it up the length of the wire and then peel it off. You want to do it to both sides obviously.
Snip the eyes off your harness as high up as you can.
Strip back the ends of the wires about 1/2 a cm.
Cut off some of the heat shrink and put it over the 2 wires and then line up your new eyes.
You don't want to cut the excess length off the leads from your new eyes yet. You solder them on, and then cut it off. So for now, I tucked them in the heat shrink to help keep the wires and leads together so I could solder them on. (whoops, the eye in backwards in this pic)
Solder the new eyes on to your harness. Because soldering takes 2 hands I couldn't take any pictures of it, but if you know how to solder you know what to do.
Before jumping for joy, TEST your eyes and make sure they work. Just plug them into your board and turn it on. If you see the LED light up green, then you're in business.
Step 8 (Trouble shooting):
Because the detector doesn't have a daylight filter on it, SUN LIGHT WILL EFFECT IT. So to see if they are working, hold the emitter and detector face to face with your fingers covering them up as much as you can, and then see if the board is a SOLID green, telling you the eyes are NOT blocked. Then move the LED away from the detector and see if it BLINKS green, telling you it's ready to fire (i.e. it thinks it's blocked). If that works, then you're in business. If the LED doesn't light up, there are 2 possible problems. One, your LED is bad (maybe you got it too hot when you were soldering), or two, you have it soldered on the WRONG way.
If it all appears to be working correctly, you can snip off the excess lead from the eyes and then slide the heat shrink up the wire as far as you can. Idealy, you want it all the way up touching the back side of the eyes.
Put your marker back together and fire it up. With any luck you'll see this:
Go show all your pals and let them know how agg you are. Then go get bunkered by the kid with the rental gun, lol! j/k!
PS. These same parts work on Intimidators to if anyone wants to try. Here is a link to the first one that bcoffron got working: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post27727017
EDIT: I got the Blue eyes working, so I can now verify that GREEN, RED and BLUE all work.