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Old 12-03-2011, 10:52 PM #400
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Griffan2 - What model Indy is it?
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:04 PM #401
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2010. i had it with a dwell of 12 on the tadao board but it had some issues with the 4c eyes (isnt that the point of tatao?) so i got one right out of an invasion, but it wont shoot at less than 17 at all.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:48 PM #402
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well, gun is shooting great, smooth acurate but..... one hopper and 2 pods for 2 thousand pounds on a 50 ci tank..... dwell on my hatred baord is at 17 right now and the lpr is about 3/4 turn below what it was before i switched boards. bump up lpr and lower inline?
im assuming you're using an invasion?? if so how much paint have you put through it? sounds like your gettings 6 pods or so on a 50 ci, which sounds pretty normal for something thats not totally broken in with a dwell of 17
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:46 PM #403
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2010 indy. bolt is showing some signs of wear but not totally broken in no. as long as i can get 5 pods and a hopper its fine lol.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:42 AM #404
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I am running a dwell of 11 after tuning my Indy, but I have a virtue redefined board.

Retune the gun as per the manual instructions and see if it helps.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:17 PM #405
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Does anyone know what size the two o-rings in the alien on/off's are? I just picked up two indys and both on/off's are being a pain the ***...
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:41 AM #406
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hey jack, when i talked to you on thursday you told me to check my popit length for an air issue i was having. you said i was looking for a .76 diferencve and the one i have is giving me .128-ish. anyways i checked the popit that scott sent me last month and to my suprise they are not the same peice at all. the one on the left is from the gun and the one on the right (a bit longer) is from scott. ill have the invasion by the end of next week so if anything needs to be done to the indy this is the time to do it if ever lol. i tried to fit the flat popit in the spring behind the lpr but it sits in very very loosely. i dont know if that's good or not but i decided to ask here before i put a part in my gun that might not belong. go ahead and give me a call when you get the chance, you should have my number but if not ill be checking this thread all day at work haha.

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Old 12-11-2011, 04:18 PM #407
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you said i was looking for a .76 diferencve and the one i have is giving me .128-ish.
What you are looking for the the cup seal to open 0.095 to 0.100

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anyways i checked the popit that scott sent me last month and to my suprise they are not the same peice at all.
If you look at it from the Cup Seasl's perspective they are very similar. The circumference of the thin part of the pin, is almost exactly the same. The narrow part of the cap fits onto the spring. The Cap ridge sits on the raised part of the Cup Seal. The only thing is - again - does it stick about 0.100 out of the front of the cup seal Vavle body.

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. i tried to fit the flat popit in the spring behind the lpr but it sits in very very loosely.
Flat?
Loosely? Spring should put pressure on the Pin.

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go ahead and give me a call when you get the chance, you should have my number but if not ill be checking this thread all day at work haha.
I'll be in all day tomorrow - give me a call, but it sounds like your cup seal spring might not be right. Maybe the previous owners wanted to see if he could lower the LPR pressure by have less spring tension. Most don't realize that it is inertia that really opens the pin - the spring stiffness isn't as important as some think.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:41 PM #408
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Does anyone know what size the two o-rings in the alien on/off's are? I just picked up two indys and both on/off's are being a pain the ***...
Jack, you mind answering this?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:55 PM #409
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Hey Alien owners. So I've got a bit of a problem with my 2010 Indy I picked up off here. I proceeded to simply take apart the gun and clean out the frame, under the body, trigger, etc. as there was a lot of gunk accumulated in hard to reach places (when the gun is fully assembled) and I could see it hadn't been cleaned in quite some time. As far as lubricating, all I did (I am knowledgeable of the Independence operation/parts) was take out the rammer, clean off the old lube, and apply a thin but fresh coat of Hatred Marmalade. I then put everything back together, air it up, and Eureka, a leak.

The leak is coming from the solenoid/rammer assembly. I am almost certain it is coming out of the rammer, but every now and then it might "seem" to be coming out of the barb or somewhere else. I found an oring that seemed to be the same size, swapped them out/applied a new coat of Dow 55 instead this time, and air it up-still leaking. I tried dry firing before I swapped out orings to see if it just needed to seal up, but after a succession of 6 shots, it was still leaking. I did not do the same with the new oring. Mind you, I've owned an Indy before and have been able fix most every problem that surfaced with that one before, but this just has me baffled and pissed.

I took a video on my iPhone that I can share if you think that might be of use, but I think I described the problem well. Thank you for any help.

-Ryan

Edit: Nvm, posted again.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:06 PM #410
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Just send it to Jack man, I had one leak similar and I just sent it to him. My noid was shot. Jack will take care of ya man, hands down best customer service EVER
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:11 PM #411
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Noid can't be shot though, the gun still dry fired and the noid clicks still. And "just" sending it to Jack entails the price of labor, to and from his shop, plus whatever else is needed. Not going to happen unless it is absolutely necessary.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:16 PM #412
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Mine fired too, but I'm sure it's probably something small. Get in touch with Jack and see. If you don't want to talk to him try smokeage on here, he knows indys pretty well. Also anyone from pr1me could prob help you too.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:19 PM #413
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all I did (I am knowledgeable of the Independence operation/parts) was take out the rammer, clean off the old lube, and apply a thin but fresh coat of Hatred Marmalade. I then put everything back together, air it up, and Eureka, a leak.

The leak is coming from the solenoid/rammer assembly. I am almost certain it is coming out of the rammer, but every now and then it might "seem" to be coming out of the barb or somewhere else..
First is the LPR set too high and it's not a leak but instead the solenoid over pressurizing? Turn down the LPR till the leak goes away or it won't shoot anymore.

Still leaks...

Take the trigger frame off and disconnect the ram body from the gun body then, with the ram at about a 90 degree angle from the gun body, connect the hose again and see - exactly - where the leak is coming from... the front O'Ring to the rammer, under the solenoid, where.

I hear you that it didn't leak before - however that doesn't mean that it never leaked there before - maybe it had the leak before and he lubed up the O'Ring.

Also the O Ring on the front of the rammer is a bit of an odd size - you can use the 011 O Ring (I think it is ) but we use a metric for less drag. Call if it's the front O'Ring and I'll get you one.

Not the front O Ring but under the solenoid - air my be getting past the O Ring - 012 - on the back of the Rammer so check that O Ring.

Not the O Ring on the back of the Rammer... you can send in just the Rammer - priority mail is $5 - each way and I'll look it over - but now we are talking about solenoid failure.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:36 AM #414
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Now that is dedication right there, thank you Jack. Online at 9 p.m. helping Alien owners. I actually did what you recommended for locating exactly where the leak was coming from beforehand and it is indeed from the rammer. I replaced the rear oring and will try an 011 on the front, and we'll see what happens.

I turned down the LPR and the leak does go away, but as you say, then it cannot shoot (more than 1/2-3/4 a turn out and it leaks). If it happens to be the solenoid valve, would it be as easy as dropping in a new one in? Unless you strongly advise against it, I may take the gun apart completely and clean the LPR/HPR, lubricate, reset the board, and start from scratch to see if there are some settings that are just royally screwed up.

As far as electronic settings are concerned, should I just follow the '09 Independence manual? I know they're comparable enough internally, so... If all else fails I suppose you'll be hearing from me after Christmas. Thanks Jack.

-Ryan
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:20 PM #415
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Now that is dedication right there...
My wife might say it's a obsessive compulsive disorder

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I replaced the rear oring and will try an 011 on the front, and we'll see what happens.
If it goes away contact me and I will send you a new one that let's the gun shoot smoother

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If it happens to be the solenoid valve, would it be as easy as dropping in a new one in?
I may take the gun apart completely and clean the LPR/HPR, lubricate, reset the board, and start from scratch to see if there are some settings that are just royally screwed up.
Yes,
Be sure to note how the shims are stacked - so be careful - resetting the board will mean you have to put the dwell higher before you do anything else

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As far as electronic settings are concerned, should I just follow the '09 Independence manual? I know they're comparable enough internally
Depends on what board you have...
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:46 PM #416
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Alrighty round two I suppose. First picture is a side-by-side of the current solenoid and the solenoid I purchased (at the time of purchase it was said to be the same as the Dm7-11 which to my understanding is the model that goes in the Indy). The one I purchased has the sticker rated to .7 Megapascals while the current one goes up to 1, will the new one still work? Other than some other labeling they are externally identical.

The other is a picture of my LPR piston, which in comparison to the '09 Indy manual, should have a metal protrusion on this flat side of the piston? Unless there were slight changes made to the 2010/11s...

Thanks for the help so far and thank you Jack. Happy holidays.

-Ryan
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:15 PM #417
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a picture of my LPR piston, which in comparison to the '09 Indy manual, should have a metal protrusion on this flat side of the piston? Unless there were slight changes made to the 2010/11s...
Piston is right
BUT...
Put the piston inside the cap and cover the two holes at eh bottom and make sure you have good suction - no suction - wrong O-Ring
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:34 PM #418
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Alrighty round two I suppose. First picture is a side-by-side of the current solenoid and the solenoid I purchased (at the time of purchase it was said to be the same as the Dm7-11 which to my understanding is the model that goes in the Indy). The one I purchased has the sticker rated to .7 Megapascals while the current one goes up to 1, will the new one still work? Other than some other labeling they are externally identical.

The other is a picture of my LPR piston, which in comparison to the '09 Indy manual, should have a metal protrusion on this flat side of the piston? Unless there were slight changes made to the 2010/11s...

Thanks for the help so far and thank you Jack. Happy holidays.

-Ryan
as long as you dont over pressurize it, i do not see why the new noid will not work.
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Old 12-28-2011, 06:55 PM #419
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Connections are different, it's a non issue.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:24 PM #420
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Connections are different, it's a non issue.
Because you are sending it back? Don't need a connector - you can just splice the wires... I don't know about the 1 vs the .7
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