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Old 08-08-2006, 01:07 PM #22
MondoMor
 
 
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Well, I finally got to sit down with a handheld chrono and play with settings on my Type-R last night. I went through about 200 paintballs on CO2 with no issues, though velocity was pretty inconsistent. For now, I'm going to blame that on an un-broken-in Type-R and Ion reg. If it's still this inconsistent after a few hundred more balls, I'll try a different reg.

I got a feel for what Dwell setting to use, and updated the main post with it.

What I found seems to line up with many of the Wrath guys' settings, so I'm probably not insane. The Wrath is very similar, but not the same, so take Wrath settings with a grain of salt.



I'd really appreciate it if you other Type-R guys would share your settings as well!



Edit: The eye logic on the TES T-board is good. I was using only a gravity-feed hopper, and had not a single chop when eyes were on. That's using the default 20ms eye delay of the board, and about mid-range on the sensitivity setting.

Last edited by MondoMor : 08-08-2006 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:45 AM #23
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Anyone know if these REX/odyssey/Wraths take a standard mini guage or is that some crazy metric size too?
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:37 AM #24
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I haven't taken the gauge out, but to my eye it looks like standard 1/8" NPT.
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Old 08-14-2006, 05:57 PM #25
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I have a lot of experience w/ draguns but not much w/ more high end guns... I know that draguns tend to be metric where others are standard. Anyone know for sure... I need a new guage, but dont want to buy the wrong one.
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:41 PM #26
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You're going to guilt me into taking my gun out of the safety of the gear bag and assaulting the gauge with a crescent wrench, aren't you?


Done. It's standard - good ol' 1/8" 27tpi NPT threads.

The thread sealant they used is kinda nasty, FYI.

Last edited by MondoMor : 08-14-2006 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:22 PM #27
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lol.... Anything to get the information, be it guilt or pulling out your finger nails. I think you made the right choice. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-02-2006, 09:18 AM #28
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So if I used a remote and just a little liquid co2 entered say when i was diving or crouching it wouldnt be too big of a deal would it?
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Old 09-02-2006, 10:11 AM #29
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Umm, only if you change out the sock reg set up can you use a remote.

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Old 09-02-2006, 10:46 AM #30
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have a detonator
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Old 09-02-2006, 06:18 PM #31
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the only thing liquid co2 could really break in this marker is the low pressure line or an oring (and possibly the miniguage)... if you don't have an inline reg instead of the stock bottom line reg, forget the remote. You'll put 800 - 1500 psi into the marker and kill your miniguage + pop your lp line.

Keep in mine that if you break anything significant, you'll have a hard time getting a new part that will work since rex will be gone when all their markers are sold.
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Old 09-02-2006, 10:05 PM #32
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like i have said I have a detonator so ill be fine correct.?
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Old 09-02-2006, 10:47 PM #33
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detonators dont like liquid co2, but you should be fine... nothing can really break on them other than orings anyway. Just keep the reg and marker well lubed w/ dow 33 and you should be just fine.
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Old 09-02-2006, 10:55 PM #34
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Det's hate co2, they flat out hate it. even in its expanded hate, the det is just not good with co2, and it can be hard to fix.

Jeff
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Old 09-03-2006, 10:24 AM #35
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Ok I aprecciate all the help.
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:17 PM #36
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Another question. How should I adjust the lpr and the opr that come stock on the gun. I can't really understand the manuel.
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:44 AM #37
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Always adjust the HPR first.

Adjust the HPR to between 225 and 325 psi. Recommended is 275psi. The gauge on the side of the gun shows the HPR output pressure.

To adjust the LPR, you need a chronograph, since the LPR is what you use to adjust velocity.

My LPR is set so that the adjuster is a turn or two in from flush with the LPR body. If you turn it in about 1 1/2 turns, you should be "in the ballpark" on velocity.

The LPR is pretty sensitive. As I mentioned in the first post, 1/2 turn will make a 30fps change in your velocity.

Here's a peek at my LPR:


Click for Big

Last edited by MondoMor : 09-07-2006 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:08 AM #38
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Lpr adjust velocity? I dont think so.

The LPR only contols the pressure behind the hammer, the HPR contorls the pressure behind the valve, witch is what shoots the ball. The LPR has an effect, but is not the main factor.

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Old 09-07-2006, 10:16 AM #39
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The manual says to use the LPR to adjust velocity. <shrug>

The Wrath guys have this procedure which pretty much agrees with you. Since the Wrath is so similar to the Type-R, the same general procedure applies.


My thinking goes this way:

The LPR output pressure affects the force the striker/ram applies to the valve, controlling valve dwell. Higher LPR pressure provides more acceleration (and therefore momentum) to the striker/ram. This directly affects how long the valve is open.

It's just like in blowbacks. In this case the striker is propelled by air pressure instead of a compressed spring. In blowbacks, you adjust velocity by changing the spring preload, even when there's an HPR.

Since small changes to the LPR have a significant effect on velocity, it seems reasonable that this is the best way to control valve dwell.

Changes to the HPR will have an effect on velocity too, and if you want to use the HPR adjuster for velocity control, that's fine. I just think the LPR is a better place to do it.



Edit:

On 'cockers and my Rainmaker the LPR should not be adjusted once it's properly set. Unlike the Type-R, the LPR on these guns only affects the cycling rate, and have little or nothing to do with releasing air to propel the paint ball.

Last edited by MondoMor : 09-07-2006 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:57 AM #40
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The manual states that velocity is a function of the balance between HPR and LPR.

So... I guess if you want the HP higher you'll have to lower the LP and vice versa.

I suppose the marker is faster when LP is higher and HP is lower, according to the manual it should cycle faster anyway.


Oh, and as y'all can tell I got my Type-R a couple of days ago. I put on a real regulator and a small drop forward, then I did my patented POOR MAN's Trigger job and I am as happy as a fish! (in lava?)


Poor man's trigger job:
Take a couple of small, tight orings and slide them up the trigger. I got about four ones there over the small bend and setscrew. This eliminates some of the wobble.
Then you take the microswitch spring and bend it a little so that instead of straight it is bent a little outwards making for a snappier return and higher rates of fire.

See illustration, trigger to the left of the ascii representation of the microswitch spring and microswitch itself (and frame) to the right.

Microswitch spring Before:
|

Microswitch spring After:
(


Don't overbend or you'll be in trouble. Be gentle!

And don't take my word for it that this actually works. It VOIDS warranty!
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:36 PM #41
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what warranty?
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:38 PM #42
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Shhhhh!

The..... ehhhh... warranty y'know!
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