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Old 07-07-2006, 07:29 AM #1
Icedrelm
 
 
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Everything You need to know about The R3

Hello all! I am Jeff, and I'm sure many of you know me here, well If you know me, then you Know I have an R3, and I'd love to tell you all about it!

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I am In no way shape or from to blame if you damage your R3 well useing this guide.

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Frist Let me go over some of the R3 many fetures.

FASOR(Foward Aired, Spring Oprated Return)
Air is put behind the ram to strike the valve for the shot, the spring then returns the ram back to the rest position of the cycle.

-Bottom Line Regulator
Uses your tanks pre-set regulator to adjust the incomeing pressure to the gun. The down side of this is, if you have a slow tank reg, you will get shoot down.

-Clamping Feed
Umm holds any hopper, Tight

-Bottom Line Regulator
Uses your tanks pre-set regulator to adjust the incomeing pressure to the gun. The down side of this is, if you have a slow tank reg, you will get shoot down.

-LPR (Low Pressure Regulator)
Lowers the 300psi In front of the valve to where the noid can handel it.

-Quick Strip Delrin bolt
Can be removed quickly, also dosent need to be lubed.

-Operating Pressure(PSI)
The R3 Runs at about 300psi, on the main reg. Less on the LPR.

-Cocker Threads
Uses any Autococker threaded barrel.

Board specs SOON


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Now I'll Tell you how to brake down your R3

Frist, Remove the hose from the LRP hose fitting, and the back cap's hose fitting. Also remove the macroline.

Now remove the Eye cover, and put it aside, gently pull the Eye out of its hole, Besure not to lose the small plastic peice (No biggie if you do, REX sends you spares)

Now, Remove the two trigger frame screws, gently remove the frame. BE SURE THE EYE ISENT CAUGHT ON ANYTHING!!



Now, unscrew the LPR and For grip.



And now, Remove the VA, Look in side of it, you will see an allen screw, thats how you remove the VA.



Next, Remove the end cap, and bolt.



Now, look under your R3's body, you will see your Ram has an allen screw in it, for the ram to be removed you must remove the screw, and Needless to say (I hope) For the screw to come out it must go through the larger hole in the slot.



Look under the body agian, and you see a small screw, remove it, and uses a small no marring object (I uses a wooden or plastic spoon handle) To push the valve out the back.




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Ok, Now that we have our R3 broken down its Time for lube! I use DOW 33, and I put it on the ram and on the Valve Pin. Rember, Just a Dab will do!

Valve



Ram




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How to remove the stock Reg
This is a hard task, please before attempting it, make sure that you are up to it. Rember I am not at fault if you mess up.

Frist, remove the Grips, Not just one side, take them all the way off



Now, Remove the two screws that hold the board on.

Next, pull up on the LCD gently, be very careful when doing this and make sure that you are pulling straight up.



Now you can move the battery and get to the front screw, and you can get to the back screw.


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The Eye cover problem

The eye cover can cut the R3's eye wire. How dose it do this you ask? The eye wire goes through a slot in the eye cover that has a rather sharp edge. To fix it, I used an End mill Bit in a dremal and removed some metal from around the slot.



Also when putting the eye cover back on, make sure that the eye wire is out of the eye cover screws way.

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The LPR hose problem

The Front hose (LPR hose) Can be cut, by the tray, mine came cut, once I opened it up I found the tray is issue. To fix it? End mill bit in the dremal once more, and remove some more metal from the front hose slot.


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Upgrades!

Well frist thing I upgrade on any gun is the Barrel, but the stock barrel is by no means bad on the R3, but nor do I find it as good as my Lucky kit. Rember The R3 is cocker threaded.

The second thing I would change is the stupid bottom line reg, It truly is a pain in the ***, anything is better then the stock reg (Well almost)
SOME, SIDE INPUT REGS WILL NOT CLEAR THE TRIGGER FRAME, AND WILL NEED AN ORING TO FIT.

Last thing I would add is a QEV, to increses Cycle time, and get a little closer to the 30 bps claimed.

______________


This Is not finished yet, But Will Be soon!

Jeff
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Last edited by Icedrelm : 07-08-2006 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:30 AM #2
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Reserved, in case I run out of room in the frist post.

Jeff
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Last edited by Icedrelm : 07-07-2006 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:45 PM #3
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take pictures and sticky this. great breakdown.
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Old 07-08-2006, 07:45 AM #4
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Pictures are being uploaded now.

Jeff
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:13 AM #5
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STICKY!!! (dude i love you man)
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:59 AM #6
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Your not the frist to say that...

Jeff
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:54 PM #7
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my cup seal is different than yours. Instead of cone shaped its hat shaped and flat. Weird.
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:57 PM #8
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Nope not at all weird, Yours is stock. Mine is the ACP delrin Wrath cup seal. Funny you are the second person who caught that.

Jeff
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:23 PM #9
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i imagine you get better airflow from that, how much did it cost? And, do you happen to know where to get an oring kit? I know they used to have one for the 03x, but im unable to track it down.
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:27 PM #10
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No clue on the O-ring kit, but the cup seals were I think $9 for 2. Something like 14 after shipping, good deal.

Jeff
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:50 AM #11
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Hey Jeff, now that you have a Fusion, can you go ahead and give us a run down on an R3 vs. Fusion. I think there was already one in the other forum but I'm interested in a few things I didn't see mentioned such as weight and overall feel. Thanks
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Old 08-05-2006, 02:11 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icedrelm
Your not the frist to say that...

Jeff

O ya suck up the love Jeff. LoL

MATT-
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:03 AM #13
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Umm, well the fusion looks better, has a nicer trigger, a real Reg. stock, brakebeam eyes, much easier to strip, and an on/off and rail stock.

The seem to shoot the same, the fusion was a bit quiter, and a bit smoother, but in game play, I couldent tell the diffrence. The fusion shoots closer to a Full EP then other air rams, but not by much. IF you really want a gun that looks better go for the Fusion, but if you want a cheaper gun with the same basic proformance, gow with the R3.

Jeff
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Old 08-05-2006, 03:53 PM #14
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everything i need to know about the R3 EXEPT THE SOLENOID! Just messin with ya, but i do have a solenoid leak. Leaks right out that big hole on the top. I took it apart and used pipe cleaners on it, relubed, and leak went away for about 100 balls. Then it started ticking, shortly after started to leak again. I'm stumped.
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Old 08-05-2006, 04:08 PM #15
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That hole is the over pressure vent, you eaither need to lower your LPR or you may have blow it.

Jeff
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Old 08-05-2006, 06:08 PM #16
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does the wrath solenoid work? It pretty much works the same, but im not sure about compatability with the board.

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Old 08-05-2006, 07:50 PM #17
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Wont fit in the frame.

Jeff
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:10 PM #18
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poopsticks, humphrey noids are so expensive.
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Old 08-05-2006, 11:13 PM #19
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It may not be dead, did you try lowering the LPR?

Jeff
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:27 AM #20
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yeah when i increase the operating pressure and lower the LPR it just tics. I wish like, the rex warranty actually meant something.
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Old 08-06-2006, 10:40 AM #21
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It dose, as long as you meet the warrenty terms. Did you over pressureize the gun?

Jeff
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