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Old 06-15-2006, 09:35 AM #1
RogueWarrior
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Custom pump spyder

OK this isnt just another stupid idea, and I know this has been done before. Iv already started ill get pics up ASAP. I took a spyder XTRA and unscrewed the foregrip and slid it on to that thing that sticks out below the barrel (dont flame i have no idea what it is). Then I formed a metal bar that will attach to that grip (which is now a pump handle) and go to the rear of the gun and catch the bolt when I pull it back. Now, to keep the gun from recocking I took the o-ring off the striker. (which is attached to the bolt in a tube below the bolt, so when air hits it the striker moves back thus moving the bolt back, for those of you that dont know) So by taking off the o-ring im hoping that the striker will not move back so I can keep the gun from recocking. I realize that this might not let the air past initially and push the striker back a little bit, maybe halfway. If that happens the I will cut 2 slits in the sides of the striker to let air flow past it.

I know you want pics and I should have them by tonight, it will be easier to understand then.
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Last edited by RogueWarrior : 06-15-2006 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:24 PM #2
Sk8er4Real
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Sounds like a pretty cool project but I just hate spyders.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:21 PM #3
Roost
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I'm actually building a Spyder pump (from an Xtra) as well. Not just for fun or for pump play, but because I really have a good idea.
Oh yeah, and if you take the o-ring off of the striker, I'm pretty sure that air will leak constantly from around the striker, not just when you fire the marker.
Anyone have any ideas on what to use as the pump itself? I'm probably just gonna use a solid piece of plastic and shape it to my needs.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:25 PM #4
wjr
 
 
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A peice of PVC pipe would work well.
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:56 AM #5
Deus Machina
 
 
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No air leaks out from removing the striker O-ring. The valve needs to be open, which doesn't happen until you fire.

I used a piece of Nylatron as the pump on mine. Not easy to work with, but a smooth piece has this *beautiful* silver-and-black marble look.
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:12 AM #6
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If you take off the striker oring, it will still try to recock, it just won't fully get there (it will make that "burping" noise like when you are really low on air). You'll probably need to make a new valve pin that doesn't let air through to the striker. It will definitely be easier than trying to cut slits through the striker, not to mention probably about twice as efficient.
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:50 PM #7
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meh.... i wanna see someone make an ion pump lol

Last edited by splatmania : 06-17-2006 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 06-17-2006, 05:45 PM #8
RogueWarrior
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Im sorry I havent posted pics yet, im having trouble with my internet.

Im just about to take the pics now, so they will be posted very soon.

As for the striker, i will cut slits because im trying not to spend any money.
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And spirits we shall be, for thee m'lord for thee. Power hath descended fourth from thy hand, and that our feet may swifty carry out thy command. Flow a river fourth to thee, and teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti.
I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
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CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
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Old 06-17-2006, 07:13 PM #9
RogueWarrior
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the links are

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16718554857.jpg&s=f5

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16718540353.jpg&s=f5

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16718522579.jpg&s=f5
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And spirits we shall be, for thee m'lord for thee. Power hath descended fourth from thy hand, and that our feet may swifty carry out thy command. Flow a river fourth to thee, and teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti.
I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
XSV KICKS ***
PM me w/ your Q's
CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1597734
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Old 06-18-2006, 01:16 AM #10
youwish
 
 
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fabricate a new valve pin, it'e easy. just cut a cocker cocking rod to length...the whole point of pump is to conserve air and paint....your idea is highly inefficient...plus you'll have lots of fun cutting slits in hardened steel...
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:05 AM #11
RogueWarrior
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Where do I get a cocking rod??

Why dont I just block off the hole completely?
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And spirits we shall be, for thee m'lord for thee. Power hath descended fourth from thy hand, and that our feet may swifty carry out thy command. Flow a river fourth to thee, and teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti.
I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
XSV KICKS ***
PM me w/ your Q's
CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1597734

Last edited by RogueWarrior : 06-18-2006 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 06-18-2006, 01:21 PM #12
IIISportIII
 
 
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If you completely block off the hole, how will the striker be able to open the valve? There needs to be part of the valve pin sticking out on the striker side of the valve so the striker can smash into it to open the valve, but the valve pin needs to fill up the entire hole striker side so no air gets back there to recock the striker.
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Old 06-18-2006, 01:37 PM #13
RogueWarrior
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OK i was having trouble understanding this. This is my old old backup gun and i wasn't very familiar with how it works. But i got it now. What should I use for a longer pin? And how much longer will it need to be?
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And spirits we shall be, for thee m'lord for thee. Power hath descended fourth from thy hand, and that our feet may swifty carry out thy command. Flow a river fourth to thee, and teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti.
I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
XSV KICKS ***
PM me w/ your Q's
CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1597734
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Old 06-18-2006, 02:17 PM #14
IIISportIII
 
 
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It doesn't need to be longer, it needs to be thicker (bigger diameter) near the striker side.
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Old 06-19-2006, 01:16 AM #15
youwish
 
 
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the stock one is thinner where the striker hits the valve pin, to allow air to push back the striker. the valve pin needs to be thicker where it comes in contact with the striker, so to not allow air to pass it to recock the striker. check out otterscustoms for some info...
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:23 PM #16
RogueWarrior
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I checked out the site, I understand completely, but it doesn't tell where I can get a thicker pin.
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And spirits we shall be, for thee m'lord for thee. Power hath descended fourth from thy hand, and that our feet may swifty carry out thy command. Flow a river fourth to thee, and teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti.
I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
XSV KICKS ***
PM me w/ your Q's
CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:52 PM #17
youwish
 
 
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various sites or local shops carrying cocker parts.
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Old 06-21-2006, 07:31 AM #18
Nunekin666
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switch out your valve for a Dragun T1 valve, its higher flow and it wont try and recock your gun
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:15 AM #19
RogueWarrior
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Your sure?
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I HATE IONS I REALLY REALLY HATE THEM!!!!!
XSV KICKS ***
PM me w/ your Q's
CHECK OUT MY CUSTOM MILLED PUMP SPYDER
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Old 06-21-2006, 01:17 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunekin666
switch out your valve for a Dragun T1 valve, its higher flow and it wont try and recock your gun
A T1 valve is just a valve for a spring returned EP gun, so it will work. or you could drill out your stock valve for increased air flow and modify your valve pin.
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Old 06-24-2006, 02:35 PM #21
Roost
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I just took my stock valve stem, put a little JB weld on the slot, sanded it down, and it works perfect. I was going to create a custom valve stem, but someone told me that JB weld is malleable and sandable, so I thought it would work.
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