Alright guys, since there seems to be quite a few threads lately, and the existing guides to spimmy'ing your Spyder are getting somewhat out of date, I am going to post mine up for reference, welcoming opinions, and corrections.
taken from my website: http://www.pageofrob.com
This page will very much assist you in the building of your very own, "Spimmy" marker. The Spimmy is a combination of a Spyder and Intimidator marker, built using a Spyder body, and Intimidator parts, although with much modification, can use a Spyder frame. This tutorial is meant for the more experienced tinkerer, and not for the "light hearted".
I am not responsible for anything you break on your marker, or anything at all with you continuing this tutorial. As I said before, this is not for someone who does not know very much about their Spyder Marker and an Intimidator Marker.
Top-Cocking Spyder Body, drilled for eyes and drilled and tapped for eye covers
Spyder Valve Pin (brass screw like thing)
12pt wiring harness
14pt wiring harness
Adjustable Ram Cap
Cup Seal Spring
4 clamshell screws (timmy) (3 pictured, I lost one)
2 eye cover screws, to match tapped body
2 screws to hold frame to body, (timmy)
1 screw for the front block (timmy)
2 feedneck screws (spyder)
2 trigger guard screws (timmy)
1 Vavle pin screw (spyder)
1 screw for board (timmy)
1 screw for solenoid (timmy)
4 grip screws (timmy)
Standard and Metric hex sets
Screwdrivers, all sizes
Click images to view higher resolution full size pictures. ( to view the fullsize ones go to the website, I dont want to kill anyone's computer here)
To start off, you need to have your Spyder body drilled for eye covers, detents, and then drilled for the eye cover screws, and tapped. The body used in this tutorial was a Spyder Xtra body, milled and drilled by The Trooper on PbNation for top cocking, and then drilled for 3mm eyes, and timmy eye covers. Continuing with this conversion, you must drill one hole in the bottom of the body, where the front barb on the ramsleeve will come through the body.
Alright, so lets start off assuming you already have your body milled for top cocking, and with eyes and eye covers installed, while it is not necessary, in my opinion, it is not a true Spimmy unless this has been done.
Here is a picture of all the parts you will need. Remember, I only had 3 clamshell screws, because I lost one and still havent gotten a replacement.
Here is a view of the body upclose, note the slots near where the frame connects to the body, those are slots for the eye wires, so they do not become pinched or cut against the frame and body. Do not use this as a template though, because the eyes were custom installed to different specifications, which required milling of the eye covers. A eye template can be found here
This next picture shows how the eyes and eye covers will be installed onto the body. It is relativley simple once you have drilled and tapped the body. Simply place the eye in the hole, I secured it with a bit of scotch tape, and place the eye cover over it and screw it on. Make sure the eye wires are in the slot to prevent pinching.
Now, showing the bottom of the body. Note the eye wires in their corresponding slots, and the brass spyder valve screw that we will use later. The hole to the left of that screw, the one that is a little rough around the edges, is the hole for the timmy barb on the ramsleeve.
Take your ramsleeve, and hole it up against the side of the body, matching up the valve hole with the screw hole where the brass valve screw used to go. Using some kind of marking tool, mark on the body where the barb would be if the ramsleeve was inside of the gun. Now, using a sufficiently sized drill bit, large enough to accomodate a barb and a tool to remove it, in my case, a ratchet part, and drill the approriate hole. Place some kind of object inside to lower tube to prevent the bit from going through and damaging the other side of the lower tube. After drilling that hole, use something to clean any burrs off of the inside of the lower tube, as to not damage the ramsleeve when you slide it in.
Now, insert the ramsleeve into the rear of the marker. Be sure to have the poppit and the cupseal properly seated on the end, and apply a small bit of lube to the outside of the sleeve when sliding it in. Line up the bottom of the valve hole on the sleeve, with the now removed brass valve screw. Screw the valve screw back in, holding the sleeve in place, and make sure the barb hole matches up with the hole on the ramsleeve. You will notice part of the sleeve protrudes out the back of the body, dont worry, that is normal. If you do not like it, you can look around for a part to cover that up, called a "Design Cover". Now we will move on to the front block.
Now for the front block. Use the spring from the timmy, and put it in the front block, larger end into the front block, smaller end toward the gun body. Now slide it in, and use the timmy front block screw to hold it in place. Thats it for that part, now for the fun stuff =D . Lets make sure you now have your frame set up correctly.
Alright, as you can see, this is the important part of your frame. You have the solenoid, wiring harness's attached to the bottom of the board, and eye wires up top. Then the 3 barbs and hoses coming off of the solenoid. The hose attached to the trigger side of the noid, or left, in the picture, is the hose that will run and connect to the front block. The upper hose on the "rear" of the solenoid will connect just to the back of the valve on the ramsleeve, where we drilled the hole earlier. The hose under that on the solenoid, connects to the rear of the ramsleeve, near the ram cap. Now to attach the hoses and then frame.
Now, about those hoses. Screw barbs into the front block, and both locations on the ramsleeve. Now, attach the hoses to their corresponding locations as I mentioned above. Make sure you have them on well, but not to tightly. Also make sure all of the barbs have their orings on them, and snug, but not to tight against whatever they are connected to. They are made of brass, and can break off if you screw them in too tightly. In the case that they do, my personal solution is to take a small hex key, and stick it into whatever broke off inside of the part, and try to unscrew it. If that fails, you can pick up a threaing remover or something like that at your local hardware store.
Uh oh, starting to look more like a marker now, eh? For this step, use the timmy frame screws to attach the frame to the body. Dont bother tightening it up all the way yet, or the other half of the clamshell wont fit on properly. Also now is as good a time as any to attach the LPR and HPR if you havent done so already (if you did, you didnt follow my directions, start over from the beginning! =P ). Not the routing of the hoses inside of the frame, probably better visible on the full image, just click it to view it. Remember, it is quite large.
Connect the other half of the clamshell on there, screw in the ram cap, put the ram in, put the bolt and pin in, slap some Contract Killer grips by Hybrid on there, and you got yourself a spimmy. All it needs now, is macro line, an on/off, barrrel, and air. Just be careful not to shoot too many people with it.
Just let me know any corrections or suggestions, or anything. For future reference for people just link to the site because it has the larger clickable images, and a few other articles, with more to come.