Gen 4 (2K6) Intimidator FAQ - PbNation
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Old 05-15-2006, 07:41 AM #1
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Gen 4 (2K6) Intimidator FAQ

Since the 2006 Intimidator line is a bit different from the other generations of Intimidators, I thought that I should make a thread about the Generation 4 Intimidators.

Quick Specs:

Weight: 2 LBS 1 OZ. with barrel and 1 LB 13 OZ. without barrel.
Height: 7.75"
Length: 6.25"
Rate Of Fire: 25+ BPS
Modes Of Fire: capped semi, uncapped semi, capped ramping, and various types of uncapped ramping.
Design: Stacked tube, ram-driven poppet-valve with hammer.

The Manual

The board that is installed into the 2K6 Empire and Infamous Intimidator is the Infamous/Empire 1.5 board.

The manual for this board can be found here.

If you would like to copy or save the link it is located here.

Frenzy Software & Operation

For those of you too lazy to read the manual or who cannot understand it, here is the low down on the new board. In short, it simply has more modes than 127.4 and word has it that it has better eye logic, but no substantial proof has been given that I have come across.

NOTE: This is a quick run-down for a better look at the manual.

To turn it on, press ON and to turn it off, press and hold OFF.
To enter the menu display, press and hold buttons 1 and 2. Then to cycle through the options, press 1 and to select a menu press 2. Using button 1, change the value of that setting and save it by pressing button 2. You still have all the basic features and some new ones here is a quick over-run of them.

Dwell: Adjusts how long the selenoid stays open and thus how long bolt says forward and thus how long the poppet is engaged and thus how long air is released to push the ball.

Eye Modes:

Forced: Marker will fire if and when it sees a ball. It will not fire a shot if it doesnít see it.
Delay: Marker will not fire a ball if it doesnít see a ball. Until 1 second later, in which it will fire anyway whether or not it detects a ball.
Simulate: Formerly known as Dry-Fire mode. It will fire when the trigger is pulled with or without paint. Never use this as an actual eye mode setting for play.
BIP: Stands for Ball In Place. It determines the amount of time the marker waits after it sees a ball to fire. The higher the setting, the slower the marker is. In other words, once the eyes see a ball, it will wait X amount of time to actually fire. Once it gets the go ahead, this is to prevent chops from a ball bouncing in the breach. In force-fed loaders, this can be lowered because they apply a good amount of pressure to the ball stack. In non-force fed loaders or an Evolution II, set this higher to allow for some bounce.
Bolt Delay: The amount of time after the firing of a shot that the eye sensor is ignored. This allows the bolt to travel forward and backward without the eyes thinking it is paint. Setting too low can cause dry-fires.
Ramp BPS: This determines when the ramping will start, adjustable to 4,5 and 8 bps once you pull the selected value here, marker is allowed to ramp and if it is pulled faster marker can add shots depending on what mode it is in. Only used in Com Mode.
PSP/Cap: This determines if the gun will follow PSP cap/ramping rules.
NPSPN cap: No cap and no psp ramp marker will ramp first trigger pull and go as fast as possible.
PSP Cap: Marker will only ramp after 4 trigger pulls and will only ramp to the set number allowed.
NPSP Cap: Marker will ramp after first trigger pull but will only ramp to set number allowed
PSPN Cap: Marker will only ramp after 4 trigger pull and will ramp as fast as possible.
Cap BPS: Adjustable between 10 and 18. It determines how fast marker will fire when cap is on.
Competition Mode: Determines trigger ramp modes.
Full Auto: Ramps after 4th trigger pull and will ramp when trigger is held down. (will ramp to specified BPS assuming you are using a cap)
Ramp 3: Once the trigger is rapidly pulled marker will fire 3 shots.
Ramp 2: Same as Ramp 3 but it will fire 2 shots.
3 Shot: Marker will fire 3 shots per trigger pull.
2 Shot: Marker will fire 2 shots per trigger pull.
Smart Ramp: Marker will ramp accordingly to speed being pulled and time between pulls.
Semi Auto: One shot per trigger pull.
M-Bounce: Adjusts to allow for mechanical kick causing illegal trigger pulls. 0 is off and the higher, the more decreased the sensitivity is.
Debounce: Determines how long after trigger pull that switch is ignored. Adjusted in mili-seconds.

Marker Description:

The Generation 4 Intimidators are almost the same as any other Generation, except for a few parts.

06 Trigger Frame: The trigger frame is smaller and has a lip at the bottom.
06 Body: There is new milling and it is 1.5 inches shorter.
06 Clamping Feedneck: There is no need for an aftermarket feedneck now. These feedneck will allow any hopper to fit on your 2K6 Intimidator.
06 Ram Cap: Bob moved the threads for the ram cap outside of the ram-sleeve. So, the ram doesnít have to move over threads anymore, resulting in a smoother motion.
06 Poppet-Valve Assembly: This is the key to the design. It allows for the ultra-low pressures. The valve is a bit delicate, so be careful. Also, word has it that Bob may be working on a better valve that doesnít have the same alignment issues and isnít so delicate.
06 LPR: Internals of the LPR are much smaller than that of other Intimidators.
06 Ram: Milled more than other stock Intimidator rams.
06 Bolt: Milled more than other stock bolts and has detent slots.
Intergrated Rail System: There is an intergrated rail on the bottom of the grip frame.
Angled Barbs & Rear Barb Block: The barbs are angled at about a 35 degree angle to the ram sleeve. There is also a rear air-barb block.

Last edited by Altitude : 05-15-2006 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:08 AM #2
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Maintenance of the Generation 4 Intimidator is almost the same as other Generations. The valve can be removed with a 3/8" socket wrench.

NOTE: Before you gas up your gun, you must do maintenance or you will destroy your Intimidator.

Tools Needed

Before you can maintain your marker, you will need to collect the following.

1) Imperial Allen Key Set
2) DOW55 or DOW33
3) Tri-Flow/3-In-1 Oil
4) 3/8" Socket Wrench
5) Rag
6) Squeegee (Must Have A Cloth Attachment)
7) Needle-Nose Pliers

Remove Paint From Marker

This is self-explanatory. Remove paint and paint shells from your Intimidator.

The Bolt

Pull the pin on top of your bolt. This will disconnect the bolt from your hammer. Now, you can slide it out the rear of your gun. Wipe off all the old grease and dirt that is on the bolt. Inspect your o-rings for knicks and scratches. If there is damage to any of your o-rings, replace them promptly with new 015 size o-rings. The center area that is thin and does not contact the marker body does not need to be lubricated. For the delrin bolt, apply a small amount of Tri-Flow or 3-in-1 oil to the bolt. A few drops is all that is needed. Before re-inserting the bolt, take a squeegee and run it through the body of the marker. This should wipe up some of the old grease. Do not re-insert the bolt yet. There is still another step before it is ready.

The Ram & Ram Cap

Using only your hands, remove the ram cap at the rear of your Intimidator's body. You will only need to remove the thin part that unscrews from the Intimidator's body. To remove, just grip it with your hands and turn it counter-clockwise. It is tough to remove the first time, but should come out easy afterwards. Turning the ram cap no longer causes it to back out your gun. Just grab it and pull it out. Now, tilt your gun so that the back (where you just removed the cap) is facing downwards. Your ram should pop right out. If it does not, push it out from the top of the marker (the slot where the bolt pin goes through) with something. Wipe down the ram with the rag and inspect the o-rings. These o-rings are integral to the markers function and it is very important that these o-rings are in good shape. If you see any nicks or cuts, remove the o-rings and replace. The front (thin end) o-ring is a 006 and the rear o-ring is a 011 size. These o-rings will wear down periodically, so make sure you check them well. Re-lube the ram; make sure that you apply a good coat over the o-rings. Re-insert the ram (the thin end goes in first). Be careful to observe that it goes in properly. You have to get the thin end to go into a smaller diameter tube in the front of the rams housing. So, if the hammer does not slide all the way into the gun, it is not in this tube properly. Just trial and error should work to get it in correctly. Turn the ram-cap clockwise. Tighten it as tight as possible, but only use your hands. Now, it is a good time to re-adjust the ram cap. Tilt the marker upward (barrel pointing up) at about a 45 angle and move the bolt all the way back. Using an allen wrench, adjust the ram cap until you can see the first o-ring on the bolt.

Bolt Re-Insertion

This takes some practice, but afterwards it will be like a second nature. Re-insert the bolt into the gun. Make sure to align the pin with the slot in the ram. It is tough to see, but you should be able to feel when you have done it properly. If you would like to be sure, there is an easy way to check. Look down your feed tube from above and move the bolt all the way back. It should come far enough back so that you can see the end of the bolt. With your bolt all the way forwards, the forward o-ring should just pass out of view before the bolt stops moving. If your bolt cannot complete this range of motion, the ram or bolt pin are not lined up properly. Pushing down on the ram and wiggling should help a little.
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:26 AM #3
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Regulator Maintenance

This is the part that scares some new Intimidator owners. They avoid this and end up having problems with their gun. But, regulator maintenance is neither difficult, nor is it easy to mess up. Now, for those that have not done the low pressure mod, they will have to perform maintenance on both the top and bottom regs. Do them one at a time, so that you do not get them messed up. If you have done the low pressure mod or if you have a single regulator housing (like on a GZ, Dragon, 2K2) you only need to worry about the bottom/single regulator. They are both the same for the purpose of maintenance though. So, the method described will work with either. First of all, grab the regulator housing (the silver tube) with your hand and turn it counter-clockwise. If the regulator cannot be removed by hand, take your allen key and back out (turn counter-clockwise) the pressure adjustment screw located on the front of your regulator. Do this in a manner that is similar to if you were turning the pressure on your regulator down. This will reduce spring tension inside the regulator and you should be able to remove the regulator by hand. Now that you have the regulator off, you will need to remove the pressure adjustment screw entirely. When removed, you will have a nice hole in the front of your regulator. Using your allen key inserted into this hole, push the piston out the back of your regulator (push the allen key in, all the stuff should pop out) and the piston. A spring and washer should come out. Take your rag and clean out the inside walls of the regulator. Wipe down the spring and piston as well. Check the o-ring on the piston (113 size). If there are scratches, you know what to do. Re-lube the piston and spring (the spring moves against the walls of the reg when it compresses, and this will also spread more lube inside the reg) well. Now, re-insert the parts of the regulator. The order should be: washer, spring (doesn't matter which direction it faces) and then the piston. The piston must be inserted facing the correct direction though. The end that has a "little nubb" on the face should be facing towards the back of your regulator or towards your gun. The "fatter nubb" should be facing the spring. Push the parts in by hand. Re-insert the adjustment screw in the front of the regulator by turning it clockwise. Do not put the regulator back on the gun yet, there is more to do.

Pin Valves

This is another critical area of your gun, yet one that is simple to maintain. Using a 3/8" socket wrench, remove the retention nut that is holding the pin valve in. (This is located on your gun body, where the reg you just removed was formerly mounted). Unscrew the nut by hand to where it is out far enough to grip. When the nut comes off, the pin will also come out. It is under a small bit of pressure, so be careful it does not fly off. Take a look at the pin itself to make sure there are no chips or bends in the pin or your marker will malfunction. Now look at the o-rings on the base of the pin. There should be 1 white teflon o-ring (006) and one black o-ring (010) on the valve pin base. Both must be in very good condition for your marker to function. This area should not get too dirty, but a little wipe down will not hurt anything. If the o-rings are damaged, replace immediately. Apply a thin coat of lube to the pin as well as the o-rings. Re-insert into the marker then re-attach the retention nut. Do not overtighten. Remember, the regulator tube removed earlier? Well, check the 016 o-ring on the tube and replace it if needed. Apply a small amount of lube to the o-ring and re-attach it to the regulator housing.

Your Inline Regulator

Inline regulators will differ in design. So, the only thing I can say here is clean and lube. If in doubt, may as well clean that part and lube it as well. Your inline regulator is just as important to the markers functioning as the parts inside the marker itself. So, keep it in good shape and check those o-rings.

The Poppet-Valve

To grease the poppet assembly, you must remove the regulator assembly from the marker. If you do not know how to do this, there is a screw holding it to the body that you can get when you remove the grip frame. It is the one closest to the front of the marker. Remove this screw and the regulator assembly will slide right out. You may need to disconnect the air-hose from the regulator assembly. Now, you are about to be introduced to the new valve. Merely, take your 3/8" socket wrench and loosen it. Once it comes out, grab the bolt and pull it all the way back. Then, slam it forward. The poppet should come right out. If it does not, push the poppet back in (towards the marker) with your finger and try again. Once it is out, you know the drill (o-ring check). This o-ring is a 004. Check the poppet shaft out too. Make sure it is not bent or scratched. Grease the poppet and then re-assemble. You only have to do this once in a while. The poppet does not need much maintenance. Then, re-insert the poppet and make sure it is almost dead center when put back in. Then, put the valve back on and wiggle it a little to get it to seat correctly. Finally, tighten it down with the socket.

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Old 05-15-2006, 08:40 AM #4
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Pros & Cons Of The Generation 4 Intimidator


1) Light As A Feather
2) Incredibly Small
3) High ROF
4) No kick
5) Better All-Around Marker


1) Sharp Back Points On The Bolt Tube
2) Valve Is Delicate
3) Cup Seal Will Not Always Seal Correctly
4) Waste Paint Faster
5) More Attention From Newbie Players

Comparison To 2K4 Intimidator

Interchangeable Parts:

1) Front Block
2) Eye Covers
3) Barbs & Air Hose
4) Bolt
5) Trigger Guard (Not 100% Sure)

What Are The Differences?

Probably, the most noticeable when shooting, is that there is no kick in these Intimidators when they are setup correctly. It is also alot shorter and lighter than the Alias Intimidator.

Which Is Right For Me?

This depends on a number of things. You have to ask your self a few questions and answer them as honestly as possible.

A) What is your budget situation?
B) Must you always have the best of technology?
C) Are you a front player who needs a nice, light, and incredibly small marker?
D) Do you have a passionate hate against kick?
E) Have you read this FAQ?

Consider those questions and think if it is right for you. If you do not want something as small and light or if you do not have enough cash, grab a 2K4 or 2K2 platform marker. If you get this Intimidator, try and stick with it and not grab the next latest fad. The 2K6 Intimidators are incredible markers and will be able to compete with any other marker.

Here Are A Few Informative Links:

Ram Cap Setup
Intimidator Trigger Setup
Magnetic Trigger Return
Basic Intimidator Animation
Cheap O-Rings

You may also want to check how to polish the regulator springs. You can find that thread here.

I would like to thank Jaster and A-5best on for help with the FAQ.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:43 PM #5
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Good job! But a fews things were missed and need to be corrected:
- Neither the bolt or trigger guard is interchangeable w/ 2K4's
- Other components which are interchangelanle include the LPR, HPR and feedneck along with the eye covers, barbs and hoses which you mentioned above.
- Valve must be purged completely before gassing ip the marker. Failure to do so will result in a blown o-ring on your poppit or worse yet a mis-aligned poppit which can potentially ruin your ram sleeve and or valve. Purging of valve is done by grasping feedneck and FIRMLY the bolt in a forward position.
- Reg balance. It is vital to your marker that your regs be properly balanced and gassed up correctly. Regs should be turned down to an off position prior to gas up. Slowly start with HPR and increase until a small rise can be seen in the gauge. Then slowly increase your LPR to a pressure of 55-65 psi. Once your cycling pressure is set at 55-65 re-adjust the HPR to acheive the desired velocity or FPS.
- Avoid de-gassing of marker during entire duration of play. By maintaing the pressure in your marker you avoid "shocking" of regs and valves. This goes hand and hand with proper reg balance. By de-gassing and re-gassing your marker you defeat the purpose of proper reg adjustment. By gassing up your marker with the regs already pre-set to working pressures or higher will result in a massive burst of gas flow or "shock" to the internals of regs and marker greatly increasing the incidence of a damaged solenoid as well as the blowing an o-rings in the delicate valves of these markers. Practice of proper reg balance and the avoidance of gassing/de-gassing of your Intimidator will result in improved consistency as weel as improving the lifespan of your regulators.
www.ladistraction .com

Last edited by HaZeballer81 : 05-16-2006 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:05 PM #6
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Can you say STICKY!
- Ninja Infamous Intimidator
- Angel 4

"Originally posted by alphanu22: how bout a Macgyver Edition..."
"Originally posted by alien_invasion47: made from a box of matches, a paperclip and some string?"
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:12 PM #7
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I believe you only have to purge the valve if you have the delrin poppet. The new brass ones don't require it.
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:31 PM #8
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isnt it still recommended though??
it's not a big deal, i still do it
- Ninja Infamous Intimidator
- Angel 4

"Originally posted by alphanu22: how bout a Macgyver Edition..."
"Originally posted by alien_invasion47: made from a box of matches, a paperclip and some string?"
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:51 PM #9
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Oh lol, I knew this looked familiar I was like WTF?!?! but you gave credit so its cool.
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