on a Cocker
Hi everybody, I completed this project about a month ago and was asked if I would make a guide on how to do this yourself. After finishing a very busy week I decided it was time to write the guide. This guide is intended to assist anybody who is willing and wants to put a star frame
on their cocker. A few quick notes to eliminate some very frequently asked questions.
+ Does it have an MQ valve?
- Yes, if you do this conversion you will have to run an MQ valve. This is due to the fact that there is no place to put the sear solenoid as in regular eblades.
+ Does the stock board fit?
- Yes the stock board fits great. It is a drop in replacement as compared to an ego
- Because I can, and i read many people saying that it couldnít be done. Iím a firm believer that I can do anything it just takes time and money. This project took some time and cost some money but im glad I did it. This gun shoots amazing.
+ What type of machines did you use?
- For the majority of the work I used a horizontal lathe with a manual cnc attachment. This worked very well for what I needed. I also used a drill press to make the holes in the frame
. If you want to count the cut off wheel and die, I used those as well.
I chose to mill the built in rail off of the frame
. I have heard stories of the set screws striping out and didnít want to take any chances. I also did this because I didnít want to but an eclipse asa in order to uses this frame
. I had an extra rail and asa sitting around so I made use of them. To accomplish this all you need to do is take a ĺ in. mill bit, make a few passes and your finished.
This step entails how to make the eblade eye cover fit into the star frame
. All I did was take a 3/8in cnc bit and made one pass that was 1/8in in front of the opening for the upper screw hole. The distance that Iím taking about is the gap that looks like a fishhook right behind the eye slot cut. The cut only needs to be about a 1/16 of an inch deep.
Step 3 deals with removing the front mounting tab of the star frame
so that the frame
will fit on a cocker. I ended up taking about 1 inch off the front of the frame
; basically I just flush milled the front tab off until I hit the trigger guard.
This was by far the hardest step in the process. It is very hard to transfer the hole spacing from the eblade frame
to the star frame
. I plan on doing this again so Iím going to make a template out of wood so I can get it just right. The problem I kept running into was that the trigger magnets in both frames would repel each other making it hard to hold and mark where the holes should go. To compensate for this problem I just ended up drilling bigger holes so I would have some room to adjust the frame
. All you have to do is drill 2 3/16in holes in the frame
in the right spots. The last part of this step involves countersinking the rear screw hole. This is pretty self explanatory, use a countersink bit until you reach your desired screw head depth.
Put the gun back together and enjoy one of the most custom cockers ever. Unless you see me at a tournament you should be the only one who has this frame
This was compiled by UIBeer of AIR-Powered and PBNation. Please email any questions or comments about this guide to firstname.lastname@example.org
. I will continue to update the guide if I get feedback about it.