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Old 04-03-2006, 05:30 PM #1
UIBeer
 
 
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Star Frame on cocker How to Guide

Star Frame on a Cocker



Hi everybody, I completed this project about a month ago and was asked if I would make a guide on how to do this yourself. After finishing a very busy week I decided it was time to write the guide. This guide is intended to assist anybody who is willing and wants to put a star frame on their cocker. A few quick notes to eliminate some very frequently asked questions.
+ Does it have an MQ valve?
- Yes, if you do this conversion you will have to run an MQ valve. This is due to the fact that there is no place to put the sear solenoid as in regular eblades.
+ Does the stock board fit?
- Yes the stock board fits great. It is a drop in replacement as compared to an ego board.
+ Why?
- Because I can, and i read many people saying that it couldnít be done. Iím a firm believer that I can do anything it just takes time and money. This project took some time and cost some money but im glad I did it. This gun shoots amazing.
+ What type of machines did you use?
- For the majority of the work I used a horizontal lathe with a manual cnc attachment. This worked very well for what I needed. I also used a drill press to make the holes in the frame. If you want to count the cut off wheel and die, I used those as well.


Step 1:
I chose to mill the built in rail off of the frame. I have heard stories of the set screws striping out and didnít want to take any chances. I also did this because I didnít want to but an eclipse asa in order to uses this frame. I had an extra rail and asa sitting around so I made use of them. To accomplish this all you need to do is take a ĺ in. mill bit, make a few passes and your finished.


Step 2:

This step entails how to make the eblade eye cover fit into the star frame. All I did was take a 3/8in cnc bit and made one pass that was 1/8in in front of the opening for the upper screw hole. The distance that Iím taking about is the gap that looks like a fishhook right behind the eye slot cut. The cut only needs to be about a 1/16 of an inch deep.


Step 3:

Step 3 deals with removing the front mounting tab of the star frame so that the frame will fit on a cocker. I ended up taking about 1 inch off the front of the frame; basically I just flush milled the front tab off until I hit the trigger guard.


Step 4:

This was by far the hardest step in the process. It is very hard to transfer the hole spacing from the eblade frame to the star frame. I plan on doing this again so Iím going to make a template out of wood so I can get it just right. The problem I kept running into was that the trigger magnets in both frames would repel each other making it hard to hold and mark where the holes should go. To compensate for this problem I just ended up drilling bigger holes so I would have some room to adjust the frame. All you have to do is drill 2 3/16in holes in the frame in the right spots. The last part of this step involves countersinking the rear screw hole. This is pretty self explanatory, use a countersink bit until you reach your desired screw head depth.


Step 5:

Put the gun back together and enjoy one of the most custom cockers ever. Unless you see me at a tournament you should be the only one who has this frame upgrade.

This was compiled by UIBeer of AIR-Powered and PBNation. Please email any questions or comments about this guide to batman0485@aol.com. I will continue to update the guide if I get feedback about it.

Andy Beer
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Old 04-03-2006, 06:01 PM #2
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Thats is amazing. Im glad someone did it!
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:46 PM #3
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why drill the rear screw in the oddest place just move it back and put it in the bevertail hole
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:21 PM #4
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I drilled there b/c that area has the most metal for the countersinking process. But the beavertail hole would be fine.

Beer
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:30 PM #5
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hells yes thank you i have been wanting to do this for a long time..thank you bunches
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:36 PM #6
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could you make, i buy?
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:37 PM #7
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very unique. i like
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:37 PM #8
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does this allow you to use ego boards or are whe still out of luck there
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:05 AM #9
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i dont believe an ego board will work, the cocker requires a board that supports 2 noids
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:38 AM #10
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I would pay a good bit to get that done to my gun, awesome job man
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:52 AM #11
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Very nice job! Looks hot.

EDIT: I notice that yours a halfblocked, would it work on regular full size cockers? Cause looking at the frame, I see it doesn't have the sear solenoid.
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:57 AM #12
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where did you get the frame? Do they sell them seperatly?
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Old 04-04-2006, 10:00 AM #13
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yes they still sell the frames seperatly but i dont know for how long. I got mine from Compulsivepaintball.com they seem to treat me right and have everything i ever need, with the one exception being a clear polished dye hyper 2 for another gun im building.


i will do this for anybody that wants me to but its gonna cost some money. if i buy the frame and do the work it will be $200, if you buy the frame and ship it to me its gonna be $65. shipping is included in all prices and payment must be recived before i order any parts or do any work.
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Last edited by UIBeer : 04-04-2006 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 04-04-2006, 10:31 AM #14
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Would love to see a vid and a completed marker!
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:18 AM #15
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great job man...
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:36 PM #16
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Are there any benefits from using the Star Frame? Does it have more room for my fingers?
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:30 PM #17
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Yes there is more room for your fingers as well as a spring return is you like that feature of the star frame

Beer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jari Kurri
Are there any benefits from using the Star Frame? Does it have more room for my fingers?
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:17 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bac0n
Very nice job! Looks hot.

EDIT: I notice that yours a halfblocked, would it work on regular full size cockers? Cause looking at the frame, I see it doesn't have the sear solenoid.
Well, reading the first post completely...

Quote:
Originally Posted by UIBeer
+ Does it have an MQ valve?
- Yes, if you do this conversion you will have to run an MQ valve. This is due to the fact that there is no place to put the sear solenoid as in regular eblades.
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:43 PM #19
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^^^
Just as well, it will work the same on a full bodied Autococker, as long as you have an mQ.

IMO, I don't like the snatch like that, but aside from that, it looks great!

-David
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:33 AM #20
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Man just got my star frame back from the machine shop. Looks great. Luckily I had a e2 frame to match up the holes and eye notch. I removed the trigger magnet in the star frame so I could line it up. I like the spring feel anyway. I will have pics of my finished project next week after the body is back from anno. Can't wait here is a list of what is going in.

Freeflow Rythm body (Midblocked,custom milled, and anno'd)
Star frame (anno'd to match body)
Mq valve (of course)
T board (just got it and its cool)
evolve PI reg
Nexus ram
CCM LPR
and other goodies
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:30 PM #21
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amazing
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