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Old 10-13-2002, 08:42 PM #1
Spartiu
 
 
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Lightbulb Double Barrel Autococker

I recently Picked up a block of material and decided to build a double barrel autococker. The Picture is of the raw block. I will post a picture of it as things progress.
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Old 10-14-2002, 10:39 AM #2
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From that picture I would say that you have a little way to go still

Will it cock both bolts at the same time? And fire both shots at the same time? That would be easiest but it would be very cool to make it reciprocate between the sides... think Starwars walker thingy

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Old 10-14-2002, 11:43 AM #3
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Looks like the first Gen of Shockers.... LOL

Good luck on it. Will it use one valve or two? mechanical or electro?
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Old 10-14-2002, 09:11 PM #4
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Manike:
My goal is to have it reciprocate between both barrels, I agree that would be the coolest.

Spaceman:
It is going to use two valves. It will be mechanically operated at first. If it works out well then I will make an electro version.

I should have some new pictures up tomorrow night.

The raw block is 7.35 pounds (3.34 kgs) per linear foot. I cut it down to 7.5 inches in length so the current weight of the block is now approximately 4.594 pounds or 2.09 kgs depending on which side of the lake you are on.
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Old 10-14-2002, 10:01 PM #5
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Question How much for the material?

I've asked a wiser friend of mine if he could cutsom mill a Spyder body... I know a spyder body is most deff not as cool as a doubled reciprocating cocker but hey... how much did you pay for the raw materials, what is the best kind to work with, and where can I get some? ThAnXz In AdVaNcE!!!
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Old 10-15-2002, 07:43 AM #6
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mcwb05:
I paid around $25 dollars for the raw block of aluminum. The best type of material to work with always depends on the application. If you are looking to make a spyder body, then go with aluminum. You could buy online, but the prices are a bit higher and you have to pay for shipping. The best thing is to try your local metal dealers, scrap yards or machine shops.
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Old 10-15-2002, 07:31 PM #7
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Ok, Thanks For The Help Bra

Thanks man I'll be lookin. Thanks again!
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Old 10-19-2002, 01:17 PM #8
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I did a little work on the body. No pictures yet, because I loaned my camera out and haven't gotten it back yet. As I worked on the body it was clear that it would be even more unbalanced then I had originally thought. This wouldn’t be a problem if I were going to have both barrels fire at the same time, but I’m not. So basically, In order to balance the body, I have to make a new trigger frame as well. All the internals of the trigger will be shifted, but it should work.

I'll keep you posted.
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:47 PM #9
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ok well not to tell u how to do ur job, but it will ber very hard gettingit to recipricat, although i think i know how
if u have aim talk to me im amz370
if u have yahoo talk to im as flanderspb

basicly u gotta switch up the ram to the back blocks, keep the same sear same hammer same valve, u pull the trigger a back block cocks it and pull back the bolt o the breach from which u didn't shoot, then u shoot again a back block cocks it and pulls back the bolt of the breach u shot first
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Old 11-03-2002, 08:52 PM #10
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And if you made it reciprocating, it would be tourney legal, and it would kick *** to have a double barrel cocker at a tourny
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Old 11-04-2002, 03:29 AM #11
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It wouldn't be tourny legal as you are only allowed one barrel...

Also if it fired both sides on one trigger pull it wouldn't be legal, but that depends on how you build it.

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Old 11-16-2002, 12:10 PM #12
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but you could always play at scenerios, although people are starting to crack down on this as well.
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Old 11-24-2002, 12:19 PM #13
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I foresee it being pretty difficult to actuallymake it alternate fire on a mechanical autococker-styled trigger. Because you are having one trigger frame, right?

Well, one idea I can think of is using those E-spyder sear tripping devices. Have those actually trip the sear from the lug.
This way, you have a switch on either side of the trigger. Pull back, one goes off. Release, the other one goes off.
Have that alternated with the mechanical 4-way, ram, back block, and all that jazz.

Either that, or make a chip so that it's with an alternating reactive mode. So that there's only one switch to trip, yet it alternates to both sear trippers.

Of course, that's just one idea I am thinking of. I'll try and imagine some others to help you out.

But overall, a mechanical driven reciprocating-style firing is just going to be difficult.
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Old 11-25-2002, 09:48 PM #14
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Getting the pneumatics to operate like that would be very easy (if you can figure out a way to link 2 3ways to your trigger frame), but i dont have the slightest idea how you're going to make 2 hammers hit 2 valves at different times with 1 trigger pull

I think you need to study my cocker. It's timed oddly....and its open bolt now.....like, it loads and shoots on the pull then bolt goes forward on the release. Tape my cocker to a left feed cocker, get some really big hands and pull both triggers at once and you've got exactly what you're asking for
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Old 11-25-2002, 11:46 PM #15
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Or do like Im doing double WGP pivots on a cam based moter system..
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Old 11-30-2002, 05:32 PM #16
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Think autoresponse. On the pull of the trigger make one side shoot by using normal sear tripping mechanics. And use a lateral pivot point to operate the other triggerin the exact opposite manner.

This is a quick dia gram representing my idea.(triggers are hinge style.)
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File Type: jpg alternating cocker..jpg (29.3 KB, 1213 views)

Last edited by Dubstar112 : 11-30-2002 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 12-02-2002, 01:34 AM #17
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Theoretically that should work...and I'm tired...however, I think you will need to have some serious springs in there and a reallly strong pivot point in order for "at rest" to have 1 trigger fully forward and 1 fully back. They will wish to equalize and stick in the middle which isn't good. Also....say the right trigger is working normally. The only thing that is pulling that trigger forward after you pull is the return spring. However, now that it's linked to a 2nd trigger and the effort to pull the 2nd trigger is greater than the force to return the first, I don't think this will work. Basically, I see no way for your action of releasing the 1st trigger to create enough force to shoot the 2nd trigger.

I may be wrong....and like I said I'm tired and not very savvy in this type of thing, but thats my weary 2 cents.
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Old 12-02-2002, 10:30 AM #18
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As long as the trigger springs, and overall trigger force for the first trigger is harder than the second, it will work. The second trigger needs to be sprung *** lghtly as possible. Im not sure how the sear spring would work out..
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Old 12-02-2002, 07:58 PM #19
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....

if you managed to have to 3-ways working then just have one side shoot closed and one side shoot open bolt. just reverse the hoses on one of the 3-ways. im not sure if they would shoot at different times but the back blocks would move seperately and look cool as ****.
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Old 12-11-2002, 03:36 PM #20
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When you make this, can I be your test engineer?
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Old 12-14-2002, 04:30 PM #21
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i have a genius idea that will help you save time

buy:
2 cocker's or hijack a friends
then buy ducktape or super glue your choice

direction's:
tape the two cockers together or wait 15 minutes for glue to dry

then slide your finger snuggly into both the trigger's and you have yourself a DOUBLE-BARRELED cocker now why you would want to do that i am not sure but i know the longing to be the first person to not be high and think of an idea that will REVOLUTIONIZE paintball forever

(soon we will start making double barreled matrix's, timmy's, and everygun you could think of maybe even crossbread gun's)
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