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Old 02-06-2006, 11:40 PM #1
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Detonator Rebuild Walkthru w/Pics

Thought I would finally rebuild one of my Dets. This is the one from my red OMEN. It's about 2.5 years old and has never been apart. Figured since people seem to be having Det issues lately, I would take pictures and maybe help the timid tackle this easy chore. The rebuild kits can be gotten from EVIL if you can wait a few weeks, or from Boss if you need them now.

1. The Detonator


2. Det rebuild kit


3. 3/32 Allen to loosen the collar. Unscrew the collar only untill the inner retaining screw is visible.


4. Use 5/64 Allen on inner retaining screw. Then unscrew collar and lower assembly all the way off.


5. Should look like this.


6. Snap ring holding piston and spring in upper housing.


7. You will need a pair of snap ring plyers to take out the ring and then the piston assembly. Use .047 or smaller tips on snap ring plyers.
[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-6/761785/P1010028.JPG[img]

8. Remove snap ring being careful not to twist it as you will re-use it.


9. Push piston out from bottom with the eraser end of a pencil. Tap housing upside down and spring will come out.


10. Lube (Puss) generously on spring. Replace upper oringo n piston with the second largest white oring. Lube oring as well.


11. Replace spring and piston from top of Det. replace snap ring using plyers again. Change oring on top section of outer body. Largest white oring this time. Lube oring with Puss.


12. Top is done, now on to the bottom half.


13. Unscrew the seal retainer from the inner tube and lower housing BY HAND!! Do not use any tools on this. If it's stuck, use soft nosed plyers, the ones with a rubber coating on them.


14. Turn seal retainer upside down and tap gently on desk to get thrust element out. Valve seat may be stuck on it if well worn. Throw old seat away. (Clear rubber disk)


15. Remove old seat from inner tube and throw away. Use a dental pick to remove black oring half way down inner tube. Replace with new , well lubed, black oring. Make sure new black oring rolls all the way down untill it fits into it's groove. If the seal retainer does not go back on later, this oring was not seated low enough. Then put new valve seat in. Lube the valve seat lightly. In fact I use a drop of oil on it instead of lube. Too much lube and it will stick to the thrust bushing and cause the DET to not work right.



16. Use dental pic again or end of a small allen to remove small white oring from inside top of seal retainer. replace with well lubed small white oring. use pencil eraser to puch it in place. the lube the thrust bushing and replace it into seal retainer with the cross pattern facing down towards the valve seat. The put a good bit of lube on the threads of the seal retainer, to help seal on the black oring on the inner tube when put back together.


17. Screw seal retainer back onto inner tube of lower housing untill hand tight. Very tight, but only by hand. I find putting them together upside down, screwing the lower housing onto the seal retainer helps keep the small oring and thrust bushing in the right place and right direction.


18. Screw to halfs of detonator together using the outer collar. Look at the empty screw hole left by the inner screw. When you see the flange end of the seal retainer pass the hole, put in the screw. It must just pass the hole, no more. Also THIS IS IMPORTANT! Do not screw the retaining screw all the way in. It should only be in just barely enough to allow the outer collar to spin freely. To much and it will bind the valve and lower swivel. too little and it will bind the outer adjustment collar. This is what you should see when the flange is passing through the whole.


19. Once you're comfortable with putting the retainer screw in, take it back out and put the smallest tab of blue locktite on it. the put it back in as before making sure outer collar spins freely and lower swivel moves easily. Blue locktite is not as strong as the red EVIL uses, which will make the next time easier. The blue will still hold just fine.


20. Now cycle the DET all the way open and closed a couple times. the close it all the way and back it out 2.5 turns. now insert and lock down outer coller set screw. You will be at a good point to start the chrono process at the field.
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:41 PM #2
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21. You're Done. Now put it back on your marker and impress your friends and family with your madd airsmithing skills.


Here's the Detonator breakdown from Boss' great site for all your EVIL and PMI needs...
www.piranha-evil.com


Hope this made sense and takes some of the fear out of the process for the new guys. Rebuilding an HPR when you've never done anything like it can be intimidating, but as you can see, it's really pretty straightforward and easy.

Also I have limited bandwith for the pics. if they don't load, try tomorrow.
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:36 AM #3
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outa curiosity,
How many pimps do you have?

how do you comapre the unimount against the stock evil on off?
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Old 02-07-2006, 06:42 AM #4
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Very good job BPS!

Thanks
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:00 AM #5
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I have 6 PIMPs now, however my plain red one is for sale locally, so I will be back to 5.

I like the unimoint for the degas, which is nice if your messing with your markers a lot gasing up and down. Very smooth action and built very well. The stock EVIL On/Off is 1000 times better once you put lube on the threads and cycle it a few times. I wouldn't upgrade unless it's for the looks or you really want the degas feature.
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Kinda scary that "The.Evil.Tech", the "smart" guy at EVIL can't figure out the double post thing..gotta stop using that ramping mouse..
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:42 AM #6
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Quick question, the end cap on my Det spins or can be turned quite easily I wanted to make sure this wasn't some kind of problem. I have the screw turned all the way in but it doesn't help. I air my marker up the other day and it gave me no problems.
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Old 02-07-2006, 10:10 AM #7
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Yes it should spin freely. It's so you can easily mount it on any marker setup, left or right.
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Old 02-07-2006, 10:36 AM #8
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Ok thought so, thanks.
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Old 02-07-2006, 02:22 PM #9
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nice job as always BPS
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Old 02-07-2006, 02:31 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenPimpSlapped?
Also THIS IS IMPORTANT! Do not screw the retaining screw all the way in. It should only be in just barely enough to allow the outer collar to spin freely. To much and it will bind the valve and lower swivel. too little and it will bind the outer adjustment collar. This is what you should see when the flange is passing through the whole.
Yeah be careful the first time I took apart my det. I screwed it in to far and screwed up my seal retainer.
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:05 PM #11
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Just to let you know, the reg seat needs to be lightly superglued in to the brass piece it sits in.
Also, you don't need to oil it (according to The.Evil.Tech).
I have tried it with oil, and tried it without, and it makes no difference either way.
Good job though
-Dan
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:07 PM #12
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Nice write up! I would like to point out one thing, however. When I spoke with the manager of Technicial Services at Pressure Specialist Inc. (the manufacturer of the Detonator), he stated that you should use a very small amount of superglue to hold the seat seal in place. The seal retainer doesn't apply enough pressure to keep it perfectly seated, so the superglue will help to keep it from moving (thus resulting in a more consistant regulator).

If you would like his contact info in order to verify this, please PM me.

-EDIT- soso beat me to it while I was looking up the name of the company... argh.

-Howard

Last edited by pur3evil : 02-07-2006 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 02-07-2006, 06:40 PM #13
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BE CAREFULL WITH SUPER GLUE...especially if your working on your guns with no pants on.I had a near fatal accident once with super glue... thank God...I'm still a man. Thanks BPS...as always... informative.Some pics are of questionable quality though. What kind of camera do you got? I had the one that Fred Flintstone used...but found that a little bulky...so I got a sweet Canon. By the way...I saw a while ago, that you were in the market for a new Camcorder...I recently purchased the Sony DVD403 and it is awesome.You may want to look at it...currently it's the standard (Mini DVD) that others are measured against.Of course there are other nice choices in other formats(Mini Dv,Harddrive etc)
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:13 PM #14
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Heheheh... I tried to superglue my finger to my halo backplate today while installing a little rubber button. That was fun.

But really... everyone knows to be careful with superglue... and only use a little tiny bit. Just enough to hold the seat seal in place.

-Howard
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:13 PM #15
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I don't super glue the seat down. I use lube on the back side (bottom) It acts like a suction cup at that point but can still be removed. I just don't do the top so it won't stick to the piston. That's why I use oil there. I found lube would lift the seat when it stuck to the piston, but then again that's because I don't glue it down.

Glueing it would be the better solution, just harder to get the seat out for replacement.
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Old 02-07-2006, 09:54 PM #16
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Question: Is it possible to remove part 3 on the det? and can the swivle ring be takin apart? #1 and 2?
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Old 02-07-2006, 10:05 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoyoboy
Question: Is it possible to remove part 3 on the det? and can the swivle ring be takin apart? #1 and 2?
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1375608
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Old 02-07-2006, 10:59 PM #18
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First off, thanks for the walk-through BPS it should help a lot.

Secondly, I went to me local field today and chrono'd my Pimp in. I was having a problem with extremly erratic velocity and I seem to have solved that problem, but now I am still getting some erratic velocity, just not as bad.

It goes like this:
1st shot = 256 fps
2nd shot = 268 fps
3rd shot = 274 fps
4th shot = 280 fps
Then for the next couple shots, they will all stay sort of around 280. Like it will be 280, 264, 288, 276.

Let the gun sit for 10 seconds:
1st shot = 250ish fps
2nd shot = 265ish fps
3rd shot = 275ish fps
4th shot = 280ish fps
Then for the next couple shots, they will all stay sort of around 280. Like it will be 280, 264, 288, 276.

Now after reading some other people posting about their detonator, some say theirs is like +/- 2. This by far isnt mine.

Yes, my detonator is broken in and everything is lubed up.

Settings:
Dwell 11.5
LPR 120

Now I am wondering, do you guys think I should take appart DET, clean and lube it all up and then try again? If that dosent work rebuild it? Or is their something else I should be looking into?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:10 AM #19
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Try just increasing the dwell a little.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:50 AM #20
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also lube your lpr. that affects consistency too.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:58 AM #21
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I'm not allowed to touch super glue after the whole "glueing it to my noose incident". Sniffing glue is bad unkay..
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