 |
05-30-2013, 08:54 AM
|
#1
|
|
Join Date: May 2013
Location: C-BUS OHIO
|
HELP! How to remove black anodizing from CCI phantom to do own custom anodizing HELP
So i found this in what i think is a biking forum,
"Very easy.......Draino liquid gel. takes about 30 minutes to soak and
then hose it off. You dont want to let it soak more than an hour or 2
though. I did this to a black ano chainring and it looked factory
matte silver when I was done. I had to gently scrub it a little and
did it in 3 passes, soak, rinse/scrub, rinse, dry repeat. If you do it
right they will look factory finished. "
I wanted to know if this process is safe to use on my phantom without hurting the performance.
also is there another, better method? please let me know!
thanks!
-hutch
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 10:43 AM
|
#3
|
|
|
Careful when doing this to a phantom. The body has Stainless Steal thread inserts for the feed tube, and trigger frame screws...Not to mention a bunch of Stainless Roll pins in the trigger assembly that will all react badly with the chemicals you use to strip anno...
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 11:07 AM
|
#4
|
|
A.B.K.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fort Benning
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nahib_Stilgar
Careful when doing this to a phantom. The body has Stainless Steal thread inserts for the feed tube, and trigger frame screws...Not to mention a bunch of Stainless Roll pins in the trigger assembly that will all react badly with the chemicals you use to strip anno...
|
Yup. If you are sending it off to an annoer, let them do it. They break it they buy it. But if you are annoing it. Be careful and dude above me is right.
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 04:07 PM
|
#5
|
|
Join Date: May 2013
Location: C-BUS OHIO
|
so if I were to home do it would I have to make sure these are coated with proper non corrosive materials? or is there a way to properly remove these if I do the research
thanks for the help!
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 04:37 PM
|
#6
|
|
A.B.K.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fort Benning
|
Just remove them. Pins with a punch and possible a pick for the inserts? Or screw a bolt in, grab said bolt with vice grips and rip out.
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 05:16 PM
|
#7
|
|
Join Date: May 2013
Location: C-BUS OHIO
|
right on- will reference the parts list
thanks for the help!!
|
|
|
05-30-2013, 05:56 PM
|
#8
|
|
A.B.K.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fort Benning
|
Probably will have to order new inserts when completed. However I have no clue since I've never taken them out or had one fall out. However the inserts are cheap.
|
|
|
05-31-2013, 05:02 AM
|
#10
|
|
|
Roll pins can only be punched out from one side. Cant remember which side....
The inserts are RED loctited into place...so you will need heat to get them loose, and then a tool to get them out.
Replacements are cheap and easy to get/install
|
|
|
05-31-2013, 07:45 AM
|
#11
|
|
A.B.K.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Fort Benning
|
There ya go^^
I just spray paint mine when trashed.
|
|
|
05-31-2013, 03:39 PM
|
#12
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: the group W bench
|
I used to work in a Pipe Organ factory and had to paint many metal tubes of copper, brass, antimony, iron & cold-rolled steel.
The pre-treatment acid we used to clean cold-rolled steel prior to primer coat was an off the shelf product and I know from experience that it will strip anno off aluminum in a matter of seconds just wiping it on with a rag and using water to neutralise the acid solution.
Don't remember the particular brand name of that product, but it was an easily available etching acid to pre-treat steel for painting.
Funny way that I found out about it, tried to use it to clean some bottomline that had black anno. I didn't expect the stuff to strip it back back to raw aluminum just by wiping it down with a solvent (which was NOT a solvent ~ it was a corrosive. I learned something that day)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|