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Old 10-20-2004, 07:02 PM #1
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Uber Sticky!! Matrix Info!!!

THANKS TO ALL THE MAKERS OF THIS COLLECTION, YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE









The Diablo Matrix Frequently Asked Questions
Put together by ES13Raven, with a little help from Fatty_ACPP & the PBDojo FAQ


Q: What is a Matrix?
A: Its a relatively new electronic gun made by Procaps/Airtech industries and distributed by Diablo. It is based upon a spool valve style design (No hammer, no sear, no mainspring), runs between 140-180psi, and uses a 9v. It weighs 3 pounds 6 ounces and is ultra-quiet.

Q: What barrel threads does it take?
A: Anything you want! Stock threads are for cocker barrels, but the matrix has a unique breech system which allows you to purchase other breeches for other barrel thread types, including the warpfeed.

Q: How efficient is it?
A: Stock, its not. You can expect Shocker like efficiency. That is roughly 900 shots off of your 68ci 4500 system, or about 550-600 off of a similar sized 3000psi system. Efficiency mods are now available though.

Q: How fast is it?
A: Real fast. The stock board maxes out at 16.7bps, 21.6bps with the bolt kit. The lightness and crispness of the trigger makes it relatively easy for even the slowest fingers to make it sing. The stock trigger on the Matrix is adjustable and every bit as good as an Angel.

Q: Is it accurate?
A: The combination of consistency at the chronograph and lack of "kick" made by the gun means exceptional accuracy from the matrix.

Q: How much does it cost?
A: Somewhere in the ballpark of $750 US.

Q: How well does it run on Co2?
A: Pretty good, but not as well as HPA. You will get a lot more shots off of 20oz of Co2 than 68ci HPA, but Co2 can cause velocity fluctuations. Run it remote or anti-syphon, and use an inline filter if possible. Unlike HPA, Co2 is dirty and you want to protect your solenoid.

Q: What grease/oil should I use and where?
A: Good lubrication is very important in the Matrix, and solves a lot of "mystery" leaks and bolt-stick. Paintball gun oil works well, but does not last very long. Do not use oil made for firearms. Some people use DOW 33 (Shocker grease) but it is a little expensive and kind of sticky. White lithium grease works well, isn't sticky, is cheap and found at any hardware store. Grease will last longer than oil, but the bolt seems to cycle easier with oil. Fatty recommends white lithium grease, then some oil on that & a few drops through the ASA:

O-rings are the ONLY contact points, but you should put a little extra grease and oil on all parts as to have a reserve of sorts.
What you should make slippery:
Front wall
Cylinder
Top Hat (VERY CRUCIAL YOU LUBE THIS WELL)
Bolt (get it ALL lubed up)
Back wall
Rear plug

Get all the bolt contact points lubed up, and you will have much smoother function.

Q: What is the difference between the old & new versions?
A: The original LE version has pewter grips, older solenoid & manifold, a 12" or 14" CP Matrix edition barrel or J&J barrel. Higher serial numbers came with rubber grips, newer solenoid & manifold, and a J&J barrel. The latest versions have a LED & pushbutton, different gripframe & board (without auto-shutoff), and a J&J or OTP barrel. Side note: New boards will not accept original Cypher & Tournament chips.

Q: What is the correct bolt assembly?
A: It is very important to reassemble your internals right. Here is a link with instructions and pics: CORRECT BOLT ASSEMBLY Make sure the rear plug is flush with the body. LABELED BOLT ASSEMBLY

Q: What upgrades are available?
A: Several.......
Front reg / LPR mod Probably the most beneficial mod, it lowers your bolt pressure to virtually eliminate chopping. If you do not have this mod, your bolt is the same pressure as the gun (140-180psi). Aardvark makes the Trinity reg, and Shocktech makes the Matrix FGP reg. The Trinity comes with an adjustment knob and set-screw. Earlier regs were "rock mods" or "image spec mods" which used a modified Palmer rock or KAPP reg and a hose tapped into the volumizer chamber.

O-ring kit Another beneficial upgrade. The stock o-rings are not made from a quality material and are prone to leak. Aardvark sells the supa-slick o-ring kit, which seal a lot better, and enough o-rings to rebuild your Matrix 3 times. Shocktech sells a urethane kit with just the basics.

Chips The Matrix comes with a semi-only chip. Aardvark has come out with the Cypher chip and Tournament chip, both with ABS technology. The Cypher chip has several different firing modes including 2 semi-auto (so it is still tourney legal), different full-auto, turbo, and burst modes, plus auto-response (one shot on trigger pull, and one shot on release). The Tournament chip is a semi-auto only chip, but with Anti-bolt-stick (ABS) programming. After 10 seconds of nonuse, the ABS changes the forward-time of the bolt for the first shot, without affecting velocity, to help prevent "bolt-stick." It will have a different sound on the first shot.

Volumizers Aardvark has 2 versions, the Tanks and the Sentinels. They do not act as a low pressure chamber (LPC) and are purely cosmetic.

Grips LE versions came with the very heavy pewter grips. Rubber grips are available, and are now stock on the Matrix. Angel LCD grips also work on the Matrix.

Triggers Aardvark makes the Switch trigger in black or silver. Member Fatalswoop can get you a "Cobra" style stick trigger. The Matrix Center has triggers as well.

Breeches The Matrix comes threaded for Cocker barrels, and now breeches are available for Angel & Spyder barrels, as well as the warpfeed.

ASA's If you want to put a different inline reg on, Synergy and PBCentral make an ASA with a gauge port. Mini-cocker ASA's will work also. Just be sure you don't put more than 200psi into the Matrix or you risk blowing your solenoid.

Low & Mid-Rises Lower your hopper if you want a smaller profile. Aardvark makes the Dozer & Enigma Low-Rises, and PBCentral makes a Mid-Rise for the Matrix.

Efficiency Spacers / Sleeves Shocktech & PBCentral both make spacers to help increase efficiency. You might get an extra pod using it, but that's about it. What they do is decrease your volume a little, so you have to imput a higher psi to get the same velocity. Some people have had problems with the Shocktech one, not being able to get good velocity or having their solenoid leak. People seem to have good luck with the PBCentral one.

Efficiency Bolt Kit Aardvark claims a 33% efficiency increase, faster speed (21.6bps) and quieter operation. It also comes with a new necessary chip, matrix-muck (lubrication), and o-ring kit. PIC

Q: What general maintenance should I do?
A: Keep the bolt assembly well lubricated, and keep an eye on your o-rings for damage. DO NOT pull the bolt out by the stem in the back, take off the front o-ring & push it from the front. If you have the original on/off switch, be careful, it can break easily. Run about 5 drops of paintball oil through the ASA & cycle it through your gun about 20 times. Do this every time you play, with the barrel off so you do not get oil in the barrel.

Q: What is "Bolt-Stick"?
A: When the bolt gets stuck in the forward or back position. Forward bolt-stick can happen if your inline reg is turned up too high. If you do not have a LPR mod, your bolt pressure is the same as the operating pressure of the Matrix. A LPR mod will usually fix forward bolt-stick, because it lowers the bolt pressure. Good bolt-lubrication is a must.
Back bolt-stick can happen if you haven't taken a shot in a while, or if your LPR is set too low. The ABS programming in the Cypher & Tournament chips can help stop back bolt-stick.

Q: I have a leak........
A: See the Troubleshooting Guide later in this thread.

Q: Will I chop paint without a LPR mod?
A: Usually you won't if you are not out-shooting your hopper. Setting your bps to 11.1 or less with a longer back-bolt time can help not chop paint.

Q: What can I do to make the Matrix more efficient?
A: The bolt kit that Aardvark has come out with gets the effeciency that is expected, you will get 750-800 shots off a 68/3000. Otherwise you can try an efficiency spacer, use a longer or less-ported barrel, do not use really small paint or just switch to a larger tank.

Some other notes:
The Beehive inline reg is long and hinders the use of a KAPP Drop Zone 2 cradle if you do not have spacers for it.

The feed tube is designed to take BE sized hoppers, so if you have a pre-Brass Eagle revolution, you're gonna have to shave.
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:03 PM #2
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Q: How do I change my rate of fire?
A: Dip Switch and R.O.F.

The first column is the switches, the f is the time the bolt will stay in the front and the b (dwell) is the time it will stay in the back and the last number is the rate of fire:

Stock Chip:
u= up
d= down

dddd=f=35/1000.b=25/1000=16.7
dddu=f=35/1000,b=35/1000=14.3
ddud=f=35/1000,b=45/1000=12.5
dduu=f=35/1000,b=55/1000=11.1
dudd=f=45/1000,b=25/1000=14.3
dudu=f=45/1000,b=35/1000=12.5
duud=f=45/1000,b=45/1000=11.1
duuu=f=45/1000,b=55/1000=10.0
uddd=f=55/1000,b=25/1000=12.5
uddu=f=55/1000,b=35/1000=11.1
udud=f=55/1000,b=45/1000=10.0
uduu=f=55/1000,b=55/1000=9.1
uudd=f=70/1000,b=25/1000=10.5
uudu=f=70/1000,b=35/1000=9.5
uuud=f=70/1000,b=45/1000=8.7
uuuu=f=70/1000,b=55/1000=8.0
-------------------------------

Cypher Chip Settings: CLICK HERE

Bolt Kit Chip Settings: CLICK HERE

Q: How do I clean & reassemble my bolt?
A: Here are some great instructions from Aardvark------->HOW TO CLEAN THE BOLT

Q: What are the different Oring sizes?
A: Here is a pic-------->ORING SIZES

Some interesting matrix sites:
Diablo's Home
http://www.diablodirect.com

G-Force Paintball Matrix Upgrades:
http://www.gforcepb.com/Products/Matrix/matrix.html

The Matrix Center / PBCentral US authorized repair center:
http://www.thematrixcenter.com/

Aardvark's official website:
http://www.aardvarkdirect.com

Fatty's site for Matrix mods:
http://www.aardvarkpaintball.com

Diablo's Matrix main body assembly & parts listing:
http://www.diablodirect.com/matrix_parts_listing.html

Warpig.com Matrix review:
http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...ix/index.shtml

PGI Matrix review by Ravi Chopra:
http://www.paintballravi.com/Article...ix/Matrix.html

PBReview.com player reviews on Matrix:
http://www.pbreview.com/374/1/0/
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:04 PM #3
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trigger install

You might want to disconnect any drop forward/cradles you have at this time.

1.) First, remove the 3 screws holding the rubber (or pewter) wrap-around grips on the gun. You only need to remove the side with the chip.

2.) Next, carefully, disconnect the small plug housing the 4? wires which connects to your board. Make a note of which way the plug reinstalls. **Be gentle with this part as to not damage anything.

3.) Carefully remove the 2 screws connecting the grip frame from the marker. The plug you disconnected in step 2 will be hanging from the body of the matrix now. Your grip frame will be separate.

4.) You can now take the trigger spring and set it to the side. You will see a small silver pin directly above the trigger. This is the pin that holds the trigger in the frame. With a small diameter pin punch....gently tap out the silver pin releasing the trigger from the frame. (see pic at bottom for pin punch reference)

5.) The trigger will now pull up through the frame. Look at your new trigger and set the adjustment set screws to the relative same positon as on the stock trigger so you have a good starting point when making adjustments to your new trigger.

6.) After getting the set screws close, reinsert the new trigger, and line up the hole in the frame with the hole in the trigger. Carefully tap the silver pin you removed through the hole.

7.) Be sure to put the spring back in the new trigger, and carefully line up the grip frame with the body. Be careful not to pinch the small wires on the plug you removed. Plug the small wire harness into the socket on the board.

8.) Reattatch the grip frame to the marker and you are ready for testing. You then make all other adjustments to the new trigger the same way you did the stock one. Make certain that you are not pressing the small microswitch arm against the houseing, or it may break over time.




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Old 10-20-2004, 07:05 PM #4
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Troubleshooting The Matrix (some from Aardvark direct)

What are signs of a dead battery?
1. When your bolt doesn't seem to be getting full cycles and full velocity, with the trinity set right.
2. When your single shots work fine, but you get mad dropoff when you rapid-fire, with correct psi settings.
3. When the soleniod chatters and sounds if your gun is going full-auto but the bolt doesn't move far enough to load or shoot paint.
4. When you are using the correct paint to barrel match, your hopper is feeding fast enough, and you have the trinity set right but you are still chopping paint.
When in doubt, change out the 9v first.

If your gun........


...is leaking out of the bolt tip
The only way air can come out of the chamber of the gun through the tip of the bolt is through the top-hat. Check both top-hat o-rings. Most of the time the small one inside the top is to blame.

...is puffing air out of the two little holes above the grip frame
If this is happening each time you fire, it is completely normal. Your maker's solenoid exhausts excess gas through these holes.

...is acting erradic or will not fire
This can often be caused by a battery that is dying. Even if you have just replaced your battery, you should always check/replace it before doing anything else when you are having strange problems with your gun. This does not apply to leaks of course.

...is having bolt stick
If you are using the stock bolt, but have a Trinity regulator, then make sure your bolt is lubed up and turn your Trinity up until it goes away. If you are using the Aardvark bolt kit, then you can either turn your Trinity up more, or try using a less extreme dip switch setting. Using a setting for 18 bps will allow you to use a lower pressure on the Trinity without experiencing bolt stick.

...has a broken spacer or bolt
Most likely this happened because you left your rear plug screwed all the way in instead of 1/4 of a turn out. To fix this you either need to contact Diablo about a warranty replacement or upgrade to the (Aardvark) bolt.

...is chopping paint frequently
This can be the result of several things. If you have a Trinity, then try turning it down to a point where you can hold a paintball in the breach and repeatedly fire your gun without breaking it. If you begin to experience bolt stick from having the Trinity this low, then change your rof to a slower one and the bolt stick should disappear. If you do not have a Trinity, try setting your bps to 11.1 or lower and set the bolt back time longer than the bolt forward time.

...is shooting at low velocity
Turn your Trinity all the way to the maximum setting. Now adjust the pressure on your beehive until you achieve your desired velocity. Now turn your Trinity down until your velocity starts dropping. Leave it set above this point. You do not want the Trinity to affect velocity in anyway.

If its not the Trinity causing the low velocity, you may be experiencing an issue with your beehive. Try using a regulated tank that can give the Trinity input pressure between 400 and 600 psi.

...having the bolt stick forward
This is your solenoids way of telling you it is over pressurized. De-gas the gun and turn your beehive down.
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:05 PM #5
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i thought it would be a good idea to put o-ring sizes in here just cuz i had a problem with them and i think its good basic knowledge to keep in here.


STANDARD BOLT

Part--------------------------Oring size
Front wall (Outside)---------------#23
Front wall (inside)-----------------#17
Bolt nose (front)------------------#14
Bolt sail (middle)------------------#15
Bolt stem back--------------------#9
Bolt stem inside-------------------#10
Top hat (outside)-----------------#23
Top hat (large inside)-------------#17
Top hat (small inside)-------------#12
Rear wall-------------------------#23
Rear cap (outside)----------------#23
Manifold--------------------------#3


GEN-E BOLT

Part--------------------------Oring size
Front wall (Outside)---------------#23
Front wall (inside)-----------------#17 quad
Bolt nose (front)------------------#14 or 13
Bolt sail (middle)------------------#15
Bolt stem back--------------------#9
Bolt stem inside-------------------#9
Top hat (outside)-----------------#23
Top hat (large inside)-------------#17 quad
Top hat (small inside)-------------#13
Rear wall-------------------------#23
Rear cap (outside)----------------#23
Manifold--------------------------#3


Note: this is taken from the Matrix Manual
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:05 PM #6
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How the Spool Valve operates..
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:06 PM #7
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b]CenterFlag Inline Disassembly & Maintenance[/b]





Lube the piston and o-ring with white lithium grease.
Keep the pin clean and dry of any oil or grease, including no oil in the air line.

Piston Maintenance:
Tools required: 3/16 inch Allen wrench
1/8 inch Allen wrench
Rag or paper towels
DOW33™ or similar type grease
Loctite™ (optional)
1. Remove the adjusting cap by inserting the 3/16”Allen Wrench into the end and turning
counter clockwise.
2. Inside there is a spring and a brass piston.
3. Clean off the inside of the Main Body, the Piston and the O-ring of any grease and/or
debris.
4. In the top of the brass piston there is a grub screw. Remove this with a 1/8th” Allen
Wrench.
5. Inside there is a spring, brass disc, and a rubber seat. Inspect the rubber seat for tears or
cuts and replace as necessary.
6. Reassemble the Piston internals placing them inside in the following order: Rubber
Seat, Brass disc (with the small nipple pointing away from the Rubber seat), spring, and
Grub screw.
7. Use the 1/8-inch Allen to turn the Grub Screw all the way in. Then back it out 1/4 turn.
(To keep it there you can place a small dot of Loctite™ or fingernail polish)
8. Clean the inside of the regulator with a rag/paper towel to remove any dirt. Lube the oring
of the brass piston and replace into the regulator o-ring side first.
9. Replace the spring and the adjuster cap

BOB LONG TORPEDO AND CLONE CLEANING

This is a how-to on properly lubing your torpedo reg. All torpedo clones should be prety much exactly the same (powerstaion reg, etc)



STEP 1
Disassemble the front regulator and remove the regulator piston. (see photo)



STEP 2
Lube the O-Ring with Dow 33, 55 or Shocker Lube. This must be done before airing up the marker for the first time to prevent air leaks. NOTE: The O-Ring does not need to be removed to lube. (see photo)



STEP 3
Reassemble the Torpedo Regulator making sure that the large part of the piston goes into the bottom half of the regulator. (see photo)



For the best results concerning technical questions, please contact BLAST directly at:

BLAST
1799 Carpenter Rd.
Oakley, CA. 94561

Phone: 1-925-625-7929

Sidewinder Disassembly & Maintenance



Here we've unscrewed the reg body upper from the rest of the unit (supposedly different length uppers are available to shorten or lengthen the reg as needed).





Looking into the midsection of the reg, we can see the top of the reg piston. I was pleased to find that all of the internal parts had a nice, thin coating of oil to keep things running smoothly. Not only that, but the machining on all the parts is absolutely superb - thread edges are sharp and defined, and parts screw together smoothly with absolutely no wobble. The unit has the feel of a precision lab instrument more than a commodity paintball accessory.



The midsection unscrews from the base. You'll need to clamp the midsection in a vise and use an adjustable wrench to get the two pieces apart. Note the washer - it's to keep the o-ring that seals the piston tip in place.



To disassemble the midsection, first take out the o-ring (the little guy just to the left of the midsection) and use a long, thin plastic object to push the piston out through the top. Be careful when doing so - you don't want to damage the tip of the reg piston, as it's the most critical seal in a regulator. Note the pile of belleville washers that serve as a reg spring (make sure you put them back the right way when re-assembling!)



The reg core (the adjustment screw) can be threaded out through the top of the reg lower. The bottom of the reg core has a pair of o-rings for sealing. Note the 3 slots cut through the reg core threads - this is what allows gas to pass from the lower body up to the rest of the unit (4 holes in the inside of the lower body allow the air to pass through from the swivel sleeve).

Note that the reg lower disassembles further (the swivel nut keeps the reg sleeve in place), but I didn't go that far (not for lack of trying, mind you - I held the top threads of the lower body between two blocks of wood in a bench vise and heaved on it with a wrench, but loctite is strong stuff, even the blue kind - I only managed to spin the lower around between the blocks of wood...). Still, this is taken apart far enough to satisfy my curiosity.

Dye Hyper inline and Hyper 2



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Old 10-20-2004, 07:07 PM #8
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~THANKS TO GREMLIN~


"How to adjust the velocity/pressure"

To turn the pressure/velocity up, turn the adjustment screw Counter-Clockwise

To turn the pressure/velocity down, turn the adjustment screw Clockwise

Max input pressure from tank

900psi

Output pressure from reg Thanks goes to C-flash947 for this info

Black piston: 0-300 psi

Silver piston: 0-500 psi


Here is the Custom Products Information guide to their reg

CP reg Guide


With all the CP reg question in the forum latly I figured I'd post my CP reg guide in here also. Hope this helps everyone out.

There are two differnt kinds of CP reg that I know of. One has two gauge ports in the top cap the second one does not. The only differance is how you will need to take the top cap off. There is a "Non-gauge port version step" and a "Gauge port version step" Please use the one that applys to you.

First you will need these tools (Strap wrench, 3/8 allen wrench, needle nose pliers)


Now simply unscrew the bottom section of the reg. You should be able to do this with your hands. If you can not, get a second strap wrench and use the two strap wrench's to unscrew it.


Non-gauge port version step
Now that you have the bottom off you will need the strap wrench and 3/8 allen wrench. The inside of the reg(where it screws into the VAA) is in the shape of a hex(only on the non-gauge port reg). Grip the middle section of the reg with the strap wrench and place the 3/8 allen wrench inside the top of the reg. Now turn the allen wrench counter clockwise to unscrew it.

Gauge port version step
Now that you have the bottom off you will need the strap wrench and either a 3/16 allen wrench or a dowel rod or pencil. There are two different ways to get this top section off.

Way #1. Grip the middle section of the reg with the strap wrench and place the 3/8 allen wrench inside the gauge port plug.

Now turn the allen wrench counter-clockwise across the reg body (while its in the gauge port plug)

Way #2. Take out the two gauge port plugs.Grip the middle section of the reg with the strap wrench and place a dowel rod or a pencil through the top of the reg cap. now turn the dowel rod or pencil counter-clockwise.
[
Now that you have all three sections apart we will start taking apart the internals of the reg.

Bottom Section: In the middle of the bottom section you will see a silver peice (see photo below)


This is the reg seat. To take it out grip the top of it with the needle nose pliers and pull it out. Once it is out you can knock the bottom section againt the table to get the ball bearing out also. All you need to lube on this section is the reg seat o-ring and also the ball bearing. (the bottom of the reg seat is sloped. The high point of the slope should go toward the adjustment screw when puting the reg back together)


Middle Section: In the top of the middle section you will see a sliver shim (may be stuck to the bottom of the top section) I have no clue what this serves as but it must be there for a reason (see photo below) [EDIT: I have been informed that newer versions of the CP reg do not have the shim so do not worry if you do not have one]


Take the shim out and set it to the side. Now flip the reg over. You will see a peice sticking out the bottom of it, this is the reg piston (see photo below...and sorry about the quality)


To get the piston out you will need to push it from the bottom toward the top (I suggest using a dow rod or other non-metal object) This will remove the piston and spring stack. There are two o-rings on the piston, both will need to be lubed (I also suggest puting a coat of lube on the spring stack)


Close up of spring stack (again sorry about the quality)

Spring stack goes as follows )()()(

Well thats it. Here is an Exploded view of the reg.


Maintenance:Once you are done cleaning the reg relube the ball bearing and all the o-rings with a good paintball grease (Dow 33, Dow55, Slick Honey, ect.)


Later
gremlin
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Ok, so there have been alot of threads recently about how to do certain things, and what certain things are. So I've made this thread with picture diagrams on how to take apart and lube your matrix and more.


Step 1. Gather tools: allen wrenches, O rings, lube, and a rag/cloth. In the pic, I have slick honey and toxic sludge.




Step 2. Begin the disassembly of the gun. First, remove the breech rod by unscrewing the knob and expose the battery and back plug. When you unscrew the breech rod, the backplate will come off with it.


Next, remove the breech. Just slide it off.



Now, remove your inline regulator by unscrewing it from the ASA.



Next remove your grips using a 3/32 allen wrench.



Now you can remove your battery. (this can be done at any earlier point)



Next, locate the two screws on the gripframe that will loosen it from the body. One will be in between the trigger guard and the ASA, the other is on the back of the gun behind the gripframe. Unscrew these using the 3/32 allen. Then remove the battery connector from the board (unplug it).





This should expose your solenoid. Notice the orange button and two phillips headed screws. That orange button is the test button in case you ever suspect your noid is shot. The two screws will loosen the solenoid and allow for it's removal. I DO NOT recommend doing this unless you absolutely must, and if you have some idea of what you are doing.

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Old 10-20-2004, 07:09 PM #11
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Step 3: On to the bolt. Place your 1/4 inch allen wrench into the backwall and unscrew it.



Now, do not pull the bolt out from the rear, as you can damage the plunger on the bolt. Instead, push from the front using your finger or a squeegie.






Step 4: Your LPR (low pressure regulator)

Place a 1/16 allen into the small grub screws holding the shell of the lpr on. A PBC lpr is seen in the picture. There should be 3 grub screws that, once removed, will allow for the PBC to easily slide off. Before or after you do this, you need to unscrew the knob on the front of the reg all the way until you expose the spring inside.




This is what you should have when you take the PBC off.



Next is the piston. This is a key part of the lpr. If you have a leak, chances are it's coming because of this. Inspect the O ring on it (replace if needed, should be small, like a #9), then put some lube on it. To remove, place an allen wrench into the PBC shell and push it through.




Here is a full shot of the lpr exploded. You see (from left to right) the adjuster knob, the spring, the piston, the shell, the reg pin, the reg seat, and not pictured is the another smaller spring that goes into the silver part still on the gun.



This is what the part of the lpr remaining inside the gun looks like. Inspect all O rings on that, and put a light coat of lube. There is also an O ring that is not seen that goes on the very tip of the LPR before you put it into the gun. Should be a #9 or #10.

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Old 10-20-2004, 07:09 PM #12
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Step 5: Remove your detents and clean/replace them. I like to use an allen wrench to pop them out.



Step 6: Trigger and Board adjustment: First, remove the battery connector from the board (this should have been done when removing the entire frame). If your gun has eyes, you need to remove the eye wire as well.



Next, move to your dip switches. There are 4 white switches in a red housing. Up is on, down is off. In the picture my dips are at DDUD (down, down, up, down), which is a front pulse of 12 and a back pulse of 35 = a max rate of fire of 21 BPS.




Next, to adjust the trigger there are two screws. One screw is adjusted from the top of the frame by placing an allen down inside the whole on the trigger. This whole is also the whole where a spring would go if you like a snappy trigger feel. To adjust it, stick an allen wrench inside and turn (should be about 3/32). This will adjust the forward travel of the trigger.




Now, the second screw will be more inside the frame. This one is the trigger stop screw. The more screw showing inside the frame, the longer the pull will be.



Step 7: If you want to remove the trigger, there is a silver trigger pin. You will need a punch or something similar and a hammer to get it out. Place the punch on the pin, and hammer down on the punch. The pin should slide out, allowing you to remove the trigger easily.




Step 8: Re-assembly your bolt, lpr, gripframe, breech, etc.

When putting together your bolt, make sure you put the beercan in with the longer side forward. Also, the rear wall should have the flat side towards the bolt stop. Screw your rear plug in until flush and turn out 1/4 turn. You should not be able to see any of the bolt in the breech. Replace your breech, backplate, and screw in the rod. Before you put your grips back on, be sure that your dips are set how you want them, and that the battery connector is plugged into the board.



^Pic courtesy of the sticky.

Just make sure to assembly everything correctly when you put everything back together. If there are any bad O rings, replace them, and be generous, but not crazy with the lube.

You should be set to go, gas up the marker and see if there are any leaks.
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:09 PM #13
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Five simple steps to setting your LPR

1. Turn in your LPR all the way.

2. Set your velocity via the inline regulator.

3. While taking slow shots over the chronograph slowly turn out your LPR until you see a drop in your velocity.

4. Turn your LPR back in about 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn.

5. Walk your trigger as fast as you can. If you notice drop-off or shoot down turn your LPR in a smidgen.

Congratulations! Your LPR is now set correctly!

NOTES: There are other methods of setting your LPR. These all have been proven to be inferior ways. Also most LPRs need to be set each time you play, the exception to this being the
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:10 PM #14
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BOLT LUBING





The side of the piece shown in the pictures should be facing the front of the marker. Make sure the spacer has that little groove in the middle aiming towards the front of the bolt so it can stop the bolt. If its the other way around, your kit will snap. Be warned.



The piece shown here is the back of the bolt kit. It is here just so you don't confuse the two.

Now the individual pieces.
Back plug: This is the piece that screws into the back of your gun to hold it in place. The one shown here is the C4 mod which has 4 chambers instead of one for added efficiency.


Back wall: This piece seperates the back plug and the spacer. The one shown here is off the Aardvark red bolt kit.


Spacer: This piece stops the bolt kit in its proper place. This is the stock Image spacer dremeled out like a Leethal spacer for added efficiency.


Sleeve: This piece helps create less volume in the gun and seal any air from escaping through crevices around the bolt kit. The sleeve shown here is from the Image bolt kit.


Top hat: The top hat is the piece that when the bolt moves forward, it allows air to go through the back of the bolt and hence fire the ball. The one shown here is off the Aardvark red bolt kit.


Beer can: The beer can helps seal the front of the bolt kit. The one shown here is off the Aardvark red bolt kit.


Front wall: This piece touches the C-clip in the front of the Matrix's bolt chamber to prevent the kit from shooting out of the gun. The one shown here is off the Image bolt kit.


Bolt: This is what shoots the ball. The holes on the back of this particular bolt are arranged so you can get better efficiency. The one shown here is off the Free Flow 5 piece bolt kit.


This is what your completed kit should look like after you have assembled it.
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:17 PM #15
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Well, the title explains it all. I'm really hoping this helps stop these useless posts.

Can I use a high pressure tank in my Matrix or will it ruin my gun?
A long time ago, in a time before regulators, this might have been an issue. In todays world with excellent regs like the Sidewinder, 2-Liter, Torpedo, CP and the like, no tank is bad for a Matrix. The way a tank (LP puts out around 450 PSI and HP puts our around 800 PSI) works is it outputs said pressure and runs it into the reg. This then is regulated (hence the name regulator) and runs the pressure down to around 160 PSI (the ideal setting for a Matrix). This is what is then used by the gun, not all 800 PSI. Now there is a slight problem with using an HP tank in a Matrix. In regs like the Torpedo and such, there is a piston. Now this piston has an o-ring that gets worn out under high pressure. That mean you may have to replace it more often (maybe 500,000 shots or so if maintained properly). With CPs and Sidewinders, you just have to lube them more often. Not a big sacrifice but its worth it if you want a good reg.

Do Matrixes go through a lot of o-rings?
No. In fact, they go through little to no o-rings if maintained properly. What you do is basically lube up the bolt kit after every 2 cases or so. Then you stick your kit back in and play. Its as simple as that. I've never changed an o-ring in my Matrix and thats fine by me. I was at first intimidated by all of the o-rings but you get used to it.

Should I change the DYE LPR/Hyper II or keep it?
Well the DYE LPR and Hyper II are exact copies of the AKA Sidewinder LPR and the AKA SCM LPR. These are the 2 best upgrades for any gun and are the best of their kind in the paintball world. If they come stock on your gun, why would you change it?

Are the DYE eyes good or should I "upgrade"?
Well for one, there are no upgrades for the eyes. As for the eyes, they're the same in every other Matrix and this includes the Ironmen and the Toxic. The only differences are the Free Flow eyes and the EGi found in the NYX Matrix. The eyes in the NYX are different in the sense that they are waterproof and only work with the EGi's board logic. The other eyes work with any board you can throw at it with the exception of the EGi.

What should I get, Anderson or Tadao?
Well it depends. Do you want an optical or leaf switch? Thats basically the only difference in the two. Other things that are different between the two boards are the read outs (Tadao has an LED and the Anderson uses an E-Blade like display) and the maker of the boards. The Anderson is said to ramp but no definite answer has been given from an extremely reliable source to date.

Can I use a www.advantagepb.com chip in my LED since it uses chips?
No. The chip in the LED does not controlt he board software. Rather, it controls how well the switch is read when pulled. The Gun12 chip gave for bad efficiency because of low dwells and poor firing speeds because the switch logic was poor. The Gun20 was meant to fix that and it did. The chips found on the site are meant for the EGi found in the NYX and DM4. The boards are adjustable and this just helps you play with the adjustability that much more then before.

Matrixes are heavy and are not good front player guns!
Wrong! A good front can use any marker given to him. New York Xtreme was given the NYX Matrix and did extremely well in the NXL. Baltimore Trauma did the same. So how can their fronts play with it and not you? Weight should not be a factor in any gun you shoot. Sure, it may slow down your snapping but its not slow to a point where you cant get out of your bunker and back in fast enough to provide getting shot out. In fact, the weight helps more then a light gun at the snake because of the lack of kick. When you're on your stomach, you don't need to worry about shouldering your gun because theres no kick to move your gun and screw up your lanes.

The DM4 is the same as a Matrix.
Wrong. The DM4 uses the Fuse bolt kit and EGi unlike the standard Trix (with the exception of the EGi found in the NYX). The Fuse bolt kit screws together unlike our kit which just sits next to each other and is held together by a C-clip in the front of the bolt chamber and the back plug in the back of the gun.

Thats it for now. If I think of anything else, I'll be sure to post it. Only post in here if you're helping add a myth about Matrixes or paintball in general (just make sure it kind of relates to the Matrix).
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:17 PM #16
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Are Matrixes hard to maintain?
Well, Matrixes may require a little more attention at the end of a hard day than other guns, however cleaning and lubing Matrixes is a breeze. Simply open and wipe all the lube off of your bolt, check the o-rings just to be safe, and reapply lube. This entire process should take less than 10 minutes, and after you become seasoned, about 5.

Cleaning/Lubing a Matrix should be performed after every practice or day of play, however many people do this after every two to three cases, if your conservative when you play.

What Barrel should i get?
The stock Dye Barrel is a great barrel as it is, and it has been rumored to go through the same processes as the upscale Dye Ultralite and Boomstick models. If you feel inclined to change your barrel, a kit would be your best choice. Barrel kits also come down to preference; how much your willing to spend, size, ammount of bore backs, etc. Common choices for kits are the Evil Pipe Kit, the Hammerhead Kit, the Freak Kit, and Ultralite Barrels with multiple bore backs.

Which is the BEST first upgrade?
Matrixes are great guns stock out of the box. One thing that might come in handy though is a clamping feedneck. These come in all different sizes suitable for your style of play. CCM is usually the most reccomended company when it comes to adj. feednecks, although Check-It Products also make a good one.

If you dont like having to remember to clamp your hopper in, you might want to look into New Designs low and no rises that fit your unsanded hopper perfectly.

Are eyes necessary?
NO! Eyes on a Matrix are more of a reasurance than a necessity. A Matrix with properly tuned regs will bounce off paint all day. This is of corse, if you learn how to set your regs the right way. Therefore you might want to spend a little time reading the sticky on how to set your LPR.

This is also important for people with eyes. Dirt on your eyes or a dying battery might stop your eyes from working properly so you should learn how to set your regs to prevent choppage.
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:40 PM #17
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Ok, there are constantly new Matrix vs. Matrix threads, so here is a compilation of each gun's features. These are comparisons as these guns come STOCK out of the box. Also, these are the most common matrices, so there are some missing.


1. NYX Matrix: Retail $1175.

EGI eyes (original models). EGI breech takes Angel ball detents and has an external Eye wire. Not compatible with Tadao/Anderson Boards.

Toxic/TMC eyes (newer models)

EGI board: contains features such as debounce, adjustable dwell, max rof with eyes off, and loader delay. Board is an LED. This board has very fast programming/logic and is very responsive to each trigger pull.

Image Bolt Kit: roughly 1,000 shots.

CCM clamping lowrise

CP barrel

PBC low pressure regulator

CP/Toxic inline regulator

Punisher skull and X milling which makes the gun weigh approximately 2 lbs. 8oz



2. Ironmen Matrix: Retail? Rare marker, used ones go around $1200.

Toxic/TMC eyes with external eye cover.

LCD board: This is just a standard board with features such as shot counter, max ROF display, temperature readout, game timer, and says "POW" when you shoot.

PBC low pressure regulator

CP inline regulator

Custom Ironmen eye breech

Image bolt kit: roughly 1,000 shots

Custom milled Ironmen milling into side

Dead air chamber on left of gun is milled off so as to make it probably the lightest weight matrix. Also has a milled trigger frame and trigger.

CCM clamping feedneck

CP barrel

Weight: 2.4 lbs


Pic is property of Drifters_06 from the matrix pic thread.

3. Toxic Matrix: Retail $1150

Toxic/TMC eyes and breech

LCD board: This is just a standard board with features such as shot counter, max ROF display, temperature readout, game timer, and says "POW" when you shoot.

PBC low pressure regulator

CP inline regulator

14" freak barrel with one insert

Custom Toxic Milling and gems, milled trigger

CCM clamping feedneck

Toxic Dub breech rod/knob

Image bolt kit: roughly 1,000 shots

Toxic magnetic frame



4. Dye LCD: Retail $825

Dye anti chop eyes

LCD board: This is just a standard board with features such as shot counter, max ROF display, temperature readout, game timer, and says "POW" when you shoot.

Dye mini lpr: copy of AKA's SCM lpr which is self compensating and does not have to be re-adjusted once properly set.

Dye Hyper 2 inline reg

Dye Micro honed/ported barrel: not an UL or Boomstick, but probably has the same polishing and shoots very similar.

Dye non-clamping feedneck

Some minor Dye milling on gripframe

Dye bolt kit: this is a modified Image bolt kit which should produce around 1,200 shots.



Weight: 3.4 lbs

5. Gen E LED matrix: Retail $650

LED board: can accept gun 20 or gun 12 chips. Gun 20 will allow for a max BPS of 22. Very simple board operation controlled by 4 dip switches. Performs just as well as an LCD board.

No eyes

12" CP barrel

PBC/Trinity LPR

Centerflag/CP inline reg

Non-clamping high rise.

Stock bolt kit: This is pre-image and produces roughly 600 shots.
Image bolt kit: started coming in newer models: roughly 1,000 shots.

No milling: heaviest matrix


Note, this is an led body with trinity LPR. The other parts are not stock.

6. Gen E LCD: Retail $900 (original before Dye came out)

No eyes

12" CP barrel

PBC LPR

Centerflag/CP inline

LCD board: This is just a standard board with features such as shot counter, max ROF display, temperature readout, game timer, and says "POW" when you shoot.

Non-clamping Feedneck

Image bolt kit: roughly 1,000 shots


Now for the Parts Comparison.

PBC/Trinity vs. new Dye LPR: both regs are good, but the Dye will not have to be reset before each use.

CP barrel vs. Dye stock: Both are solid, neither is great, but will do the job fine. I'd take the Dye over the CP because it cleans out fast and is similar to an Ultralite.

Toxic Eyes vs. Dye eyes: eyes are eyes, they are both breakbeam and do the same thing. Eye logic is hype. Both sets of eyes work the same, which is great.

Dye bolt kit vs. Image: The Dye is a modified Image, thus it produces approximately 200 more shots.

Dye Hyper 2 vs. CP: Both are excellent, however some will argue that the Hyper 2 is better since it's a copy of AKA's Sidewinder which is an awesome reg.

Dye Hyper 2 vs. Centerflag: Hyper 2 takes this one hands down with a better recharge rate and consitency.

Dye LCD vs. Gen E LCD board: both are exactly the same.

Dye/Gen E LCD board vs. NYX EGI: The EGI board takes the prize here. It is more adjustable (debounce), simpler (if you like led), and has supposed "faster" response and programming.


Overall, performance wise from these markers stock, the NYX is best due to the board. However each of these other guns can have a Tadao or Anderson board put into them and will perform just the same as an NYX. Now, some will say that Tadao/Anderson is better than EGI, but it's really not. Each board has pretty much the same programming and each respond to every trigger pull. It is impossible for one to be faster than the other without bounce.

*Note* I did not include the following guns because they are rare and all pretty much an led/lcd trix with milling**

Entity: 2.53 lbs
Tequila
Tequila Sunrise
Kaap Flame
Zipper
Trauma: 2.6 lbs
Image
Freeflow
Shocktech
Gator
Demon
TMC limited

Special thanks to Zero for calling Gen E to get the correct gun weights.
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Old 11-02-2004, 04:04 PM #18
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manuals for all matrix boards


Generation-E Matrix (Toxic, NYX, Ironmen, Trauma, Etc.)

Dye Matrix

Tadao 5.0 Matrix Board

Tadao 4.0 Matrix Board

Tadao 1.1 Matrix Board

ANDERSON MANUAL
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:12 PM #19
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Here are pictures of the PBC lpr properly exploded.





Now I thought I would add this picture because it's a fairly common problem that comes up. There is a small O ring on the tip of the lpr that goes into the gun. It's like a #9 or something. This O ring seals against the manifold and if it is damaged or gone, a moderate leak will be heard around the gripframe area.


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Old 12-29-2005, 07:22 AM #20
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How to Lube A Dye Mini LPR

i have found the need to make a definitive guide to lubing a Dye Mini Rocket LPR. this guide is still up to adjustment so if you feel i missed anything please let me know.

NOTE: I apologize for the HUGE pics but my computers being a WHINY ***** and it took me 4 hours to upload these pics so they're not getting resized :-)

STEP 1: Required Tools

the Tools you will need to lube your Dye Mini LPR are

- your Dye Mini Rocket LPR
- preferred lubricant (i recommend slick honey, or the white lithium grease shown)
- Q-tips or other cloth to wipe off grease
- 3/16" allen wrench
- a dowel (or allen wrench) about 1/8" in diameter
- and as always a tasty beverage for your enjoyment







STEP 2:

using a o-ring pick (a small size allen wrench will also work) take off the o-ring on the tip of the LPR (shown). this o-ring is about a size 9 or 10



STEP 3:

insert your 3/16" allen wrench into the allen wrench hole beneath the LPR tip o-ring (shown above). while holding the LPR as shown in the picture turn the allen wrench counter clock wise until the part seperates from the main body of the LPR.



you should end up with this



STEP 4:

insert the small dowel through the adjacent holes in the LPR body (i used a small 9/64" allen wrench.) hold the LPR as shown and turn the small dowel counter clock wise until the LPR casing (the visible part when screwed into the gun) is apart from the main LPR body.



when disassembled properly you should see this



STEP 5: The LPR Piston

this is the LPR Piston it is what actually moves in your regulator (well the main moving part atleast.)



to take out this part you will need your small dowel (again i used a 1/8" allen wrench.) depending on when you last cleaned your LPR this will take some force.



if done properly your LPR should now look like this



STEP 6:

take a Q-tip and clean the inside of your LPR piston housing. make sure to clean all surfaces on the inside of housing.



STEP 7:

now taking your preferred lubricant (i used white lithium grease.)

NOTE THE RED TUBE FOR EXACT APPLICATION



you will need to lube both of the LPR piston O-rings so that they look moderately wet, overlubing can cause inconsistencys in the pressure and may cause bad drop off.



now you will need to replace the LPR piston back in it's clean housing (this may require some force to actually get it in there but should slide in once both o-rings have entered the housing. please make sure the piston goes in correctly and the right way.



STEP 8:

now to re assemble your LPR pressure spring. take the spring seat and place it in one end of the spring (either end will work).



place the end that does not have the spring seat on it into the LPR piston housing so that the it goes over the actual piston and the spring seat is now showing.



now taking your small dowel (again i used a 1/8" allen wrench) place it through two of the holes in the LPR body, and holding the LPR casing as shown turn the small dowel clockwise. thus tightening the casing to the body.



STEP 9:

before placing the pin and spring assembly back into the LPR body, please take your time to clean off the inner o-ring that is on the body (NOT SHOWN) simply take a q-tip and insert it down the open end of the LPR body and twist it around this will clean off the o-ring the pin rests agains and will make sure your noid doesn't blow.

PLEASE READ THE ABOVE CAREFULLY

STEP 10:

before re assembling the pin and spring assembly please lube the pin (long silver piece) along it's entire lenght with a GENEROUS amount of lubricant. also please do not forget to lube the small o-ring on the pin and spring assembly seat, it will stop some of those annoying leaks you hear coming from your trigger frame area.



then taking your 3/16" allen wrench tighten the pin and spring assembly seat onto the LPR body, CAUTION: do not over tighten.

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Old 12-29-2005, 07:23 AM #21
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STEP 11:

replace the LPR tip o-ring, and lube all o-rings shown here.







STEP 12:

GO MOW FACES WITH YOUR SEXY MATRIX

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