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Old 06-22-2006, 03:05 PM #22
XxAltecxX
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The older Dragun boards work fine with the Dragun Eye Board!

You can thank DarkeWolf for the idea!
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:43 PM #23
bLiNd28
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hey for the "The one" manuel.. what do u have to use to open it up?
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:58 PM #24
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Old 07-17-2006, 10:37 PM #25
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Upgrades on TES??

Q: im thinking of upgrading my TES, what should i do?

A: Say its a good day, and nothing is wrong with your TES.
[1]I would say first look look into a reg. and on/off set up. I went with a
CP reg, and Shocktech On/off. But, you also need to think of what you are
runing the cun on, CO2 or HPA? A good CO2 reg, is a palmer[stated before].
And a CP is good with HPA.

[1/2]Feedneck, these are important because no one likes sanding down a hopper. Try ebay for them, Look for a Twist or Clamp feedneck.

[2] Next i would say looking into a bolt. A bolt is important because it effects many things. FPS,PSI,Kick,noise reduction, and [finaly] wear&tare. I got a shocktech, it has done well over the past year i have had it.

[3]Board, now there is only really one true aftermarket board made for the TES and that would be the T-board. Thing is fast, pick one up!

[4]At this point there are only a few things more that you can go with, such as Dent[not sure],Cupseal[shocktech],valve[not sure]. These are really maintiance parts, but handy none the less.

I hope this is in some way helpfull.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:29 PM #26
the_one16
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Does anyone know which solenoid I need to buy to replace my broke one? Airsoldier has like 30 and I have no clue which one to buy.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:32 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_one16
Does anyone know which solenoid I need to buy to replace my broke one? Airsoldier has like 30 and I have no clue which one to buy.

three-way with a 5Volt input.
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:47 PM #28
flatbedburrito
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i need help fining a replacement solenoid for my "the one", my paintball store cant help me with that one, does anyone have suggestions as to where to get one
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:56 PM #29
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i need help, Can someone tell me where i can pick up a noid for the one?
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:19 PM #30
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dude, look like two posts up!
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:34 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead_Bunny
dude, look like two posts up!
And don't double post like that! The Little helpers in the Dragun forum aren't on all the time! We have lives! We will be on when we get a chance!

Last edited by XxAltecxX : 08-24-2006 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:38 AM #32
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Agitator bolt!! put o-rings on a ham and egger delrin bolt

Turn your delrin-bolt without o-rings into a gas-efficient o-ring bolt! Also- you can remove that pesky built in venturi found in shocktech pre-alias bolts! I made my detent groove as big as the dragun stock bolt has, so it wonít trash the ball detent! Read-on.

DONíT BLAME ME IF YOU HAVE TROUBLE DOING THIS/MESS-UP YOUR MARKER AND/OR TOOLS IN THE PROCESS! I AM PROVIDING HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR MARKER. BE SMART. IF SOMETHING DOESNíT SEEM LIKE A GOOD IDEA, ITíS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE THE CALL.
I am not responsible for any damages you may do to your property*

What you need:

ANY crappy delrin bolt w/o o-rings
A drill (not absolutely necessary) and a few bits, or a pencil.
A dremel (>god) and tips
Safety glasses

VENTURI REMOVAL:
The venturi is the star thing in the end of the bolt. It supposedly reduces turbulence. Youíll notice high-end bolts donít have it. Itís old technology. It restricts air flow. TAKE IT OUT!


1. Take a dremel, get a cutter like this:

2. Chow-away at the venturi, being careful not to cut into the outside walls of the bolt:
Wear safety glasses!



3. Get an abrasive stone that will fit inside the end of the bolt. Run it around gently to de-burr and smooth the inside of the bolt so air can flow well.

It should look like this when youíre done:

Thatís it! Just wash the bolt to get-rid of the delrin filings. Also- you can get-rid of an aluminum venturi by un-screwing it with long needle-nose pliers. If itís an aluminum bolt with a bunch of holes, the above method should work*

O-RING GROOVES!!! YEAH, BABY!
Though people have probably done this, Iím the first one I know of, so I call it the agitator mod, lol!

One note before you start this awesome mod. If you start with a bolt thatís too thin, you may weaken it excessively and cause it to break once you start using it. Iíll let you guys know how mine works out, but I havenít, at this time, thoroughly tested it.

1. Chuck a large drill bit into your drill (you canít do this, unless you have a bolt without a venturi). Wrap the bit in a rag and stick it snugly into the front of the bolt: (I disassembled mine to do this, but you donít have to if your bolt is a one-piece one... thatís no problem.)


2. Make sure the bolt is centered ie; when the drill turns, the bolt doesnít move from side to side. This will ensure that the grooves are the same depth all the way around. This step is very important. If you donít have a drill, you can rotate the bolt by hand while dremeling. This will take more time/effort and probably wonít be as good. Then again- not all of us have drills.

3. Put a cut-off wheel on a mandrel and chuck it into your dremelís collet. Wear safety glasses! On a slow speed (3/5), cut into the material on either side of the air inlet as the drill rotates at a slow speed. Go slowly and make sure you donít cut too deep, or your bolt will break in half, which is bad! To make a wider groove, turn the dremel, so the wheel is rotating on a different axis than that of the bolt. If you donít know what I mean, feel free to pm me about it. I started on the forward groove of the two, since the seal of that particular ring isnít as important as far as blow-by is concerned.
It should look like this:

4. Do the other groove, and make both grooves a little shallow. Test fit Ďem a few times and take the material off slowly. The bolt should fit in the gunís bore snugly, but it should be effortless to slide it. There shouldnít be any free play and the bolt should drop outtaí the gun if you tip it... You donít want a lot of friction.


5. Once the grooves are the right width/depth, wash+dry the bolt and re-install it. Also- if you do make the grooves a little too deep, wrap some teflon tape in the grooves to act as a shim. This will make the o-rings tight enough again*

DETENT GROOVE
tired of your bolt pushing and wearing your ball detent? If it has a groove thatís too small, make it bigger! Some guy tried this on my bolt with a (jackknife?). LOL! Iím gonnaí use a dremel!!

1. If possible, compare the bolt to your stock one, so you know how it should look

The delrin bolt is shorter, so the groove doesnít have to be as long in this case.

2. Using a dremel and tapered stone, carefully remove the material at a medium speed. Wear safety glasses!

3. Check the groove as you go. Make sure itís even and also that it doesnít get too big. Wipe the bolt occasionally and re-install it to see if it pushes the detent. Itís okay if it bumps it. You just donít want it hitting the detent and/or depressing it very far. The groove may be a little rough when you finish. Some 400 grit sandpaper and patience should smooth-out the marks. ONLY SAND THE GROOVE. The outside of the bolt is smooth and nice. You donít want to damage the finish.

4. The bolt should look like this when you are done. Wash it and re-install it when itís dry.

Last edited by Agitator : 08-27-2006 at 10:39 AM. Reason: wanted to add a title
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:41 AM #33
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Hi-flowing vertical adapter

Sorry to double post, but these are two separate guides.

Also- I know you guys know this stuff, but there may be a new dragun owner who doesn't

Hereís how to modify a vertical adapter to be high flowing. I know that others, such as otter have tutorials like this. Iím not trying to claim that Iím the pioneer of this idea. I just wanted to have some fun, do some drilling, and take some pictures of it!

Turn your va from this:



To this!



DONíT BLAME ME IF YOU HAVE TROUBLE DOING THIS/MESS-UP YOUR MARKER AND/OR TOOLS IN THE PROCESS! I AM PROVIDING HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR MARKER. BE SMART. IF SOMETHING DOESNíT SEEM LIKE A GOOD IDEA, ITíS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE THE CALL.
I am not responsible for any damages you may do to your property*


What youíll need:

A drill with a chuck big enough to hold a 3/8" drill bit
A wide variety of drill bit sizes
A vertical adapter with enough chunky-ness to be over-bored
Teflon tape
A spring for a tes style marker, or a maddman rocket valve (Iíll explain why)

1. Make sure your marker is de-pressurized and turned-off. Remove the hose and foregrip/regulator from the vertical adapter. If you donít know how to do this, you should check-out ottersccustoms.com for info on marker disassembly (he also has a lot of tutorials). Using an allen wrench, take the bolt out of the bottom of the vertical adapter/gun body. Slide the vertical adapter out of the front tube. Remove the volumizer and o-rings.

2. Choose the right size drill bit and chuck it into your drill. Make sure the drill is in forward.
Itís a good idea to put the piece youíre drilling into a piece of cloth, then a vice, so it stays in one place, but itís your decision. I chose to drill-out the center pin-pusher for vercical set-ups, using a 3/32" drill bit. This helped center the larger bit. This is how it looked after doing that:



3. Now- make-sure you donít drill-away the part the o-ring of the foregrip/volumizer(front) seats on. If youíre in doubt, feel free to pm me and ask about it, instead of proceeding and causing a leak* The drill may get bound-up on the smaller holes that are already there. Take it slow and try not to jam the drill/snap the bit. If it gets stuck, stop. Get it out manually, and either try a smaller bit and work your way up in sizes or switch to a dremel with an abrasive stone. That is what I did. As you can see, the hole isnít perfectly round because I didnít want to use a whole dremel tip on this one modification.

4. Drill down through the vertical adapter from the valve-end (part that sticks into the gun) to the volumizer end. You can use a bit that will remove all the material in the hole, but the valve spring sits on the metal, so this will cause a problem, unless you have a rocket valve. The rocket valve has a self-contained return spring, so this isnít an issue. The same goes for the wide-end of a dragun tes style spring. Make-sure you drill straight through. The bit will want to center on the old hole, which is a problem. If you let it, you may break-through the wall where the o-ring grooves are, which is bad. If you finish drilling and the bit wants to stick at the end, take it out and use a dremel with a triangular stone from the volumizer end. Be careful not to damage the inside threads and/or smooth, large area.

5. WASH AND DRY THE PARTS. Metal filings wreak havoc on o-rings, so be sure to get Ďem all off (the kitchen sink sprayer works well). Wipe the va dry with a rag to remove any additional filings. Then, put the o-rings back on. Put everything back together and USE TEFLON TAPE ON THE SCREW THAT HOLDS THE VA ON, otherwise the screw will leak.

6. You should notice an increase in the markerís velocity.

Thankís to all those who have helped me improve/modify my markers. I would not know any of this stuff if it werenít for pbnation.com, ottersccustoms.com, and many of you in the dragun forums of pbnation.com. Again, Iím just passing the information on. I didnít invent this idea.
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:50 PM #34
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Help Identify a TES

I am working on a TES with an electronic trigger frame that I cannot identify. HELP. The display is 1/4" wide and almost 3" long. The rubber grip has DRAGUN moulded in it.I can send pics if you can help.jybrooks@twcny.rr.com
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Old 08-28-2006, 12:09 AM #35
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pm'd ya'
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Old 08-28-2006, 12:15 AM #36
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Its a TES-B
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Old 08-28-2006, 12:30 AM #37
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woah. I told him you or someone else would know
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:11 PM #38
Dragun_Fly
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quick custom question im making a spyder/dragunfly body of the spyder trigger frame and reg off a dragunfly lcd my only deal here is the sear pin that holds your gun in cocking position is too short is it possible to take the spyder sear pin out and put it in the dragun trigger frame any ideas anyone...
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:46 AM #39
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I believe altec removed material from the part of the sear in contact with the noid, which would increase its profile. Is that what you mean?
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:39 AM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agitator
I believe altec removed material from the part of the sear in contact with the noid, which would increase its profile. Is that what you mean?

Little late bud, already went over that somewere lol. But yeah, you got it. Sand down the part of the sear that hits the 'noid to make the sear sit higher for spyder bodys. Sand the top of the sear (The part that always gets a rub mark from the striker) to use a spyder frame, on a Dragun body.


WARNING: This was figured out using a DragunFire Compact, and Spyder Compact 2000. I can't say for sure if its the same for the newer style spyders. I would think so, but can't say 100%. Worst comes to worst, you'll have to test it to find out, and maybe use a Spyder Striker, with a Spyder frame, and sand the top of the sear (Thats not going to change, you'll have to sand the sear in any case of Dragu, spyder parts swapping). It would also be vice versa for Draguns. Dragun frame, with dragun Striker, and sanding the sear.
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:14 PM #41
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I know you went over it, but He didn't see the info, wherever it is.

I wonder what happened to my va pictures lol.
I'll have to check da' host.
I'll pm ya', altec.. I have a question..........
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Old 10-30-2006, 03:07 PM #42
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ill be doing to conversions, one t1'd spyder, and one spimmy conversion. ill be getting some parts from Agitator and some others on the forums, i refuse to buy on ebay for this project, i want most parts to be from the forum

should i start a thread to track progress and post pics on the markers? where should i make the thread? dragun section?
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