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Old 01-20-2006, 09:37 AM #1
T1rippaman
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Everything you ever needed to know about your Dragun!

Well, Drefish said that if we created a compilation thread of mods and info for our draguns, he would sticky it. So here it goes.

T1 and/or TES mods:

MEMBRANE MOD-CLAMMY/T1

Clamshell on your T1

Stock valve mod

DRAGUN MODS AND MANUALS <------Macdev mod, etc.

TES/Spyder mods

Plunger Mod

Coining the Noid

Lube Dragun Reg

Jumper diode mod for T1 only:
buy a 1A diode from radioshack and place in on the T1 board linking ports 1 and 3 (on the top side of the board, under or on top of the LCD). Pic. of mod location pic of diode the band (on the diode) goes on the port 1 side.
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
you now have nitro mode

Misc. Parts:

Shocktech bolt, TES tube, cupseal

alamo city bolts, ram, bolt pin, cupseals

T1 replacement noid

fittings and hosing at air soldier

fittings and hosing at palmer pursuit shop

dragunfly striker

trigger for m42, m95

anti-siphon kit

black dragun Rear cocking bolt

TES, mech dfly, d-fire/BD parts kit

Black Dragun Trigger

black dragun trigger 2

black dragun trigger 3

General Information about draguns:

bolt: ACP, shocktech, blue bolt, bandit, tigershark (swells), Jam-bolt (sucks IMO)

Valve: Rocket valve , tornado valve, or stock modded.

feedneck: ogi speedneck, clamping (ebay), twistlock (ebay)

LPR: palmers micro rock w/ zenitram adapter zenitram adapter or timmy front block with respirator, or other timmy LPR

triggers: TBO (not in production), zenitram (above link), Dayward (pbn)

Ram: T1 ram

Striker: nightstriker (as well as others, don't know names). magnums striker-not sure if it fits TES

HPR: any standard threaded HPR

QEV: QEV with adapter

Switch: 25g, 50g Scenariodreams.com , or QEV with adapter

Tboard: scenariodreams.com as well as eye

Spyder threaded barrel, M3 threaded barbs, T1 requires HPA or anti-siphoned CO2, TES can run on regular CO2 or HPA. anti-siphon kit

Adjusting LPR on a T1:

Set HPR to around 225-250psi. Turn LPR CW until the solenoid starts to leak, then turn back 1/4 turn, and the LPR is set. Then you can mess with dwell if you choose to. The dwell is the amount of time that the valve is open, therefore, a higher dwell gives you higher fps, but lower cycling time (less bps).
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Last edited by T1rippaman : 03-06-2006 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:58 AM #2
drefish99
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Excellent informative post. Members please add more as you see fit. Please do not ask questions in this thread as we would like to keep this purely informational.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:11 PM #3
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Black Dragun/M3 Dragunfire Compact Notes:

The run of the mill "What you can do to your Black Dragun"

The Black Dragun series marker, which Includes the Dragunfire Compact, Dragunfire High Compact, Dragunfire LCD Bottomline, Ect, Black Dragun Compact, and I'm Unsure of the Older M3's (But I belive, someone correct me if wrong) Patriot, Sniper, Ect.

T1 Kit: What was based on for the Black Dragun (BD) / Dragunfire / TES, this hard to find conversion allows you to turn your Compact Through TES into an Electropneumatic Marker. The comparable and still purchaseable Zip Kit which works on the same principal can be purchased here http://www.custompbsolutions.com/

TMK The BD/Dfire Is Spyder Valved, so you can also use the Madman Valve on it.

Random Notes: TES Triggerframes and Regulators will swap right on with no problems. You have the Same crazy possibilites as the TES/T1/Spyder owners when it comes to customizing your gun.

T1rippaman has already posted websites for bolts, the Dragun bolt section at alamocitypb.com has the M3 Bolt, with an offset hole for better flow and slightly lower OP.

Special Note: If your looking to change the feednecks, the Speedneck WILL work. However, It's slightly loose, so If you go that route, I suggest that you figure out some way to add in some bit of metal or hard object to keep it from shifting and you should be fine.

Please, If you need to correct it Go ahead and PM me so I can do so, or Add changes yourself.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:23 PM #4
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don't forget about the T1 frame move up mod, T1 ram mod or the acpb cup seals.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:25 PM #5
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oh and the T1 timmy baord mod
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Fact: a frogs ears are in its hind legs...
Experiments proved this fact, a clicker was put behind the frog, it jumped 10 feet. A hind leg was amputated, and then clicking repeated, The frog only jumped 5 feet. The second leg was removed, they clicked again, the frog didn't move proving its ears are in its legs.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:57 PM #6
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DRAGUN AFTER MARKET GRIP MODDING:

I’ve been modding o3e grips for other people for a while now but no one seems to want to bother doing it their selves, or have the tools

they actually take more modding than the stickies and there the battery well you have to dig, there is no screw so u can see the battery popping out, but a small strip of double sided tape will fix that.

Instruction: (6 months in the process so be grateful I spent my life on this )

First you need to cut the center wrap around grip out so they become panels

Next you need to make a new/bigger sear well (for tes & drallion only)

Then you need to make a battery well that is almost 1cm deep on each side

Then you need to take off the top... funky spike? that pops out the back top of grip and also shave off the height on top

Then for the tes u may need to take off as much of the bottom so it will fit on the frame

Lastly you will need to grab some 600grit sandpaper and clean up the sear well, and parts of the grip that you cut off on the outside

oh yea, then you take all of the internals out if the grip frame that you can, put it in a wood vice, punch a starting drilling hole where you want the grips holes to go and drill your 6 holes, then go back and use the corresponding tap (4-40 tap set) then go to home depo or ace and pick up some 4-40 machine screws that are 1/2" long. you will need to cut off 4 for the screws so to fit in the frame the best 2 really small, 2 medium, and 2 that are uncut.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:09 PM #7
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Powering Your Marker: This is Important Information Guy's, don't take it lightly
TES: Co2/HPA
Black Dragun: Co2/HPA (Co2 If it's got an X Chamber, HPA If it's got a Reg, Both if your using a Dragun Reg)
T1: HPA is really what you should choose (A/S Co2 Can/Should work, but be Wary, also, if planning to run Co2 Make sure you have a Co2 Friendly Regulator, IE a Palmers Stabilizer.)
Dragunfly : I belive they can run on Co2, I need someone to correct that. But an HPA IS recommended.
Drallion: It's an Autococker. HPA.


That should be Everything.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:55 PM #8
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Suction on a Blowback. (You can use these ideas to make your t1 have suction.)
A better way of describing how to install the rocket valve. (blowback)
Facktory Hack Mods

HOW TO MOVE UP YOUR GRIP FRAME:


Summary:
You stick a nut into the sear slot in the body. You have a new screw holding the front of the grip frame as well the VA. You hacksaw off the front of the grip frame. You drill a new hole in the grip frame for the screw to slid through to the VA.

Mounting the nut...

1st I dremmeled a nut little by little and tried to fit it in the sear slot. Once the nut gets just about in I try and jam it with my thumb as hard as possible. After it is barely stickin in the slot after i jam it in, I put it in a clamp and have the clamp do the work for me (jaming in the nut). But after you move up the frame you need to cut off the front of the frame because the reg/VA are in the way. You also need to drill a new hole for the front grip frame screw in the grip frame for the screw to slid in.

"Why not just use the existing front hole and have the nut farther back?"
-When you use the existing front hole the back hole is right in between the body and the sear slot, making it impossible to fit a nut there without doing a lot of more work.

The feel...

The problem I had with rails before I moved up the frame was that I didn't like how far the gun was from me. I want to feel that the gun is about 3" away from my nose. So I thought if I got a drop it would feel better...WRONG! So then I thought that if I moved up the frame I would still have that good support with the tank and have my nose about 3" away from the gun. It feels a lot better now that I did this mod. Plus this mod makes you tighter in the bunker since you are closer to your gun.


front grip frame screw goes into the new hole then into the VA hole in body. Front of frame cut off.

1: "front grip frame screw goes into the new hole then into the VA hole in body. Front of frame cut off."
2: Old front grip frame socket (not used anymore)
3: Valve set screw
4: Mounted nut
5: Old back grip frame socket (not used anymore)

3/4" goes into the VA
1/2" goes into nut
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:48 PM #9
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http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1325916

Modifying the Clammy to fit your stock T1 Board into it.
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Old 02-01-2006, 02:22 PM #10
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Main spring for T1 to be used with lightened ram.
"Goto your local hobby store ask for rear shock springs for an Associated 1/10th RC buggy (Team Associated part no 6478). These springs come in differtent wieghts and cost $2.50 for a pair. They fit perfect as a replacement. I have been using these for over a year now without any trouble."
-Factory Hack
http://www.lightninghobby.com/associ...53982_prd1.htm
they can also be found there
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Last edited by flood187 : 02-14-2006 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 02-01-2006, 02:57 PM #11
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question..sorry if it doesnt belong here but ill delete it as soon as i get the answer. does the diode have to be that exact same one? can it be a paper clip or some sort of metal taht connects the two ports?
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Old 02-01-2006, 04:42 PM #12
Headshotted
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Jumpering For The Simple Minded/Confused:

On a TES/T1 Board It looks like This:

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Old 02-20-2006, 08:12 PM #13
IowaPaintballer52353
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i need new detents anyone know of someplace i can get some
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Old 02-20-2006, 08:21 PM #14
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Cocker Detents, For the one Millionth time.

Draguns take HEXAGONAL COCKER DETENTS.
(Autococker Trilogy Style)
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Old 02-21-2006, 03:58 PM #15
the_one16
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I need to replace my solenoid but when I buy the replacement how do I install it and what other parts do I need?
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Old 02-21-2006, 04:17 PM #16
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No Other Parts, Exactly what his has, find the JDMoto Videos.

Well, Barbs Possibly.
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Old 02-21-2006, 05:02 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaPaintballer52353
i need new detents anyone know of someplace i can get some
dragun custom built detent

kilaproducts.com
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:18 PM #18
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Any brand Diablo Mongoose Bolt will fit the TES.
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Old 05-07-2006, 11:43 PM #19
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does anyone know the screw size for the va?
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Old 05-19-2006, 02:32 PM #20
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Do all cocker frames fit the Drallion. I am thinking about converting it all the way to a real cocker.
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Old 05-19-2006, 02:43 PM #21
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Yes, and the Drallion is already a REAL cocker. Unless your like me... In that case the only real cockers are mech...
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