Basic questions about buzzards answered here:
Where can u purchase a buzzard/comp?
contact steve over on the blowfish message board
call CC Paintball's Corona store directly 951 278 8609
it is much better and faster to call the store directly rather then order from them online. you can find out exaclty what they have in the store. ordering online you'll end up waiting a while if they don't have what you want CALL THEM, don't order from them online, its much easier
check the BST forums on
cost for a current new buzzard, with a matching t-stock and matching aluminum barrel. between $600-$700 depending on where u purchase it
used buzzards with matching stocks obviously should sell for less then that, on average, depending on the model between $500-$550
stock class comps are much harder to find, because they require more hand made parts cost about $50-100 more then a buzzard
there are three "generations" that people like to refer buzzards as:
pre-dye, dye, post dye
. all of these buzzards, no matter what generation, were assembled by earon.
pre-dye buzzards have single finger swing triggers, some have slide triggers which are hard to find.
dye buzzards use dye single finger triggers, similar to ones that can be found on dye cockers, and the dye hinges that can still be purchased. earon worked out of the dye factory when making these.
post-dye buzzards, at first had single finger hinge triggers, but where later changed to finger and a half swing triggers. more recently the triggers were drilled with holes. these frames have "dye" engraved into them only because earon was given blank trigger frames when he parted ways with dye, so they are not "dye" buzzards. Earon began making aluminum barrels anodized to match the body and no longer makes stainless steel barrels
what barrel threads do carters accept?
Buzzards accept cocker threaded barrels.
Threading on buzzards have high tolerances, not all cocker barrels will fit right away. some snubs may require running a tap through the threading in order to loosen up the threading.
the barrels also have a bevel on one end which is necessary for the bolt to properly seat all the way forward. without this bevel the marker will not fire because the hammer and blt are not all the way forward and will not allow the sear to release. this can be remedied two ways. 1, take the barrel you wish to use to a machinest, show them the stock barrel, then ask tem to replicate the bevel, should be quick and of minimal cost. 2 add a o-ring to the barrel, using it as a spacer, put it on at the back end of the barrel, over the threads. this will only work about half the time.
if you are lucky like few have been, your buzzard will miraculously fit any barrel without any modification. again, few have been lucky enough to experience this
sanchez machine makes barrels for earon, not sure for how long, but more recently they have. sanchez also used to make all of dye's barrels until they took manufacturing in house
comps have their own threading
to get your barrel off with ease, loosen the two screws on the ring holding the horizontal feed. when titghtened this puts pressure on the barrel and threads, lockining the barrel
ask all questions here instead of creating new threads.
i know i haven't answered all the questions people have asked but frankly i can't remember them right now
basic diagram of how a nelson pump works
yes its a phantom animation but its the same deal, and there is no buzzard diagram available
taking apart a buzzard is similar to a phantom, just a few more parts and screws, nothign to be intimidated by
on newer buzzards you can adjust the trigger pull. tap out the trigger pin, then remove the trigger, careful to not pull out the spring or stretch it. take the proper allen key and turn the screw out. this will result in a shorter pull. CAREFUL though, too short a pull will result in autotriggering when gassed up. dry cocking it the pull will feel fine, but make it too short, when you gas up your marker it will begin to autotrigger
personaly i've never had a single problem with velocity (knock on wood) so i'm no as versed on spring info, if i'm wrong, just correct me and i'll make the proper changes. these are cocker springs, if you have problems it is worth investing in a madmann spring kit. standard spring in the power tube is a red valve spring, the blue main spring seems to be the popular choice.
cup seal is from a spyder, so easy to find.
there are two types, the old style and new style. with the newer power tube you should be able to get over 40 shots from a 12 gram on a warm day, with the old, over 30. older buzzards require the older power tube. you can apparently put the new style power tube on, but will have difficulties with velocity. buzzards that are post dye have the new style power tube, when ordering a replacement, be sure to specify which type you need.
*** if you have the old style power tube, which comes on pre-dye and dye buzzards, you can swap out the power tube for a phantom power tube. ***this requires some careful handywork, excuse my lack of proper terminology, but you need to remove the power tube itself from the threaded section surrounding it, this is the way many of the blowfish replaced their carter powertubes with phantom powertubes, and they do vouch for the fact that it shoots more like a phantom once you do this***
to remove the sear, tap out the pin, be careful so that the spring doesn't go flying off into the known universe
mounting a guage
there are two locations. all buzzards are tapped at the back of the valve body, and have a plug, some buzzards have tapped hole on the vertical ASA. the vertical ASA is easy. the back of the valve is another story. if your feed is angled, you can actually just screw the guage right in, but it may get in the way of your stick feed. most will not be able to mount it this way. so get a 90 degree elbow, screw it into the back of the marker, then screw the guage into the elbow. be careful, put the elbow in too far and there won't be enough room for the guage. you can put the guage on the elbow first, but don't screw it in all the way, or else the threads on the elbow will not catch the threads on the marker. i had both setups, but recently i could not get it to stop leaking through the elbow, so i did the next best thing, used 2 elbows! haha.
marker is autotriggering
if the marker is autotriggering, there are 2 immediate fixes. the most likely culprit is when you assemble the marker. make sure there is no gap between the snubb and the valve body once you have the entire marker assembled turn the marker vertical resting on the t stock. loosen the screws on the horizontal feed, and the screw behind the trigger frame. make sure everything is aligned properly, and snug upp the snub against the valve body. tighten the front two screws holding the feed first. then tighten the screw on the rear of the trigger frame.
the marker will autotrigger if there is any gap between the snub and the valve body.
the next solution would be to sand down the sear if you continue to have problems, if you are local to so cal, you might want to just send the marker to earon. but you can take some high grit sandpaper and sand the sear down.
yes those are rock'em sock'em robots in the background, gotta have inspiration in my line of work
pump arm screws
earons screws aren't a off the shelf item, some smaller mom and pop hardware stores might have them, but thats a long shot.
threading is 10/32, so technically you could use any 10/32 screw thats long enough. careful though, with regular screws, you can push the screw in so far that it locks down the tpc. and grind it a bit.
replacement screws cost $10 a screw apparently, so don't lose em. if you're careful, you can find some long screws,and cut them down to length
12 gram changer leaks
if your 12 gram changer is leaking, you may need to replace the seal which you can pick up from home depot faucet washer #00
this took way toooooooooo long