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Old 12-02-2005, 10:07 PM #1
m-a-r-k-7
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The Guide to Make A Mag Faster

I have been seeing a lot of threads lately asking how to make a mag shoot faster on here, AO, and other forums, so here it is the "Maggers Guide to Making a Mag Faster." I will Try to credit all custom works and pictures to who they belong to. If you do not want me to use it, simply contact me and I will remove it from the thread. This is how to take your minimag/68 classic and make it a paint slinging machine.

I'm divding this into three different sections.

Section 1: Convention upgrading and modding

Section 2: Pneumags

Section 3: Electomags

Here goes nothing:


Section 1: Conventional Upgrading and Modding

By conventional I mean things that are available directly from AGD, or other Mag upgrade related companies. This will leave you with a mag that looks similar to this one:

(this Mag bleongs to "THE_KAMKA" here on PBN)


X-Valve
First of all to get your mag shooting faster you will want an X-Valve. These are available directly from AGD for $325, or you can do the valve trade in program and get one for $225. The valve trade it program is when you send in your Classic/Minimag valve and they give you a $100 discount on the X-valve. http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu... categoryID=9

"Now all aluminum with hyper-fast recharge makes this our most popular upgrade! The reactive trigger actually pushes your finger back after firing each shot! Shootdown is gone forever and the gas flows into the chamber so fast you can feel the valve heat up after a long string. Comes with everything you see here and is a direct replacement for the standard Mag valve. Slide it right in and go to town!" Taken from www.airgun.com



X-Valves are basically the same thing as RT Valves, and E-Mag valves. They are just alluminum and weight 3 oz less.

Double Trigger
The next upgrade you should look at would be a double trigger frame.
There are many different styles made by different companies.

You can go the oldschool way, and cut off your standard single trigger frame and add a double trigger, as I have on my Minimag.





There are "Chimera" frames from www.themagsmith.com

Standard Features:
~AGD styled trigger guard
~AGD Safety Mechanism
~AGD Intelli-Feed Bracket
~ULE weight reduction
~Trigger Guard Slot(for easy frame screw removal)


(PIcture and specs from www.themagsmith.com)

Rouge Has stunned us again with the ULF ( Ultra Light Frame). IT has a 1.5 oz weight reduction over stock intelliframes.

(picture from RogueFactor)

Logic Paintball makes "The Ultimate Mech Mag Frame"
www.logicpaintball.com

"The fact is that I wasn't happy to just sit back after having brought the vert
frame to the AutoMag. Nope, I was constantly bothered by the fact that Angel
grips are nearly impossible to find, expensive when you do find them, and once
found, force the frame they fit to be exceedingly tall. I wasn't happy about it
no sir, but what to do? For the longest time, I had no idea. Then one day, I was
chatting with a fellow about the wonderful amalgams that you find in paintball today
when it hit me. Why not take the average of the frame angles of both a vert style
and a .45 style frame? Why not indeed.

What you see above is the result. The first frame that we did in this style was the
Ultimate Shocker Frame, and it's effect on anyone who handles one really drove home
the effectiveness of the hybrid frame angle concept. So, armed with this new technology
I set off to revamp our whole product line. It took a little time, but this change has
now settled in Mag town. The new Ultimate Mechanical Mag frame gives you all the comfort of a vert style frame
but with none of the drawbacks. It takes standard .45 style grips, and is over an inch
shorter in height than the vert it replaces. The trigger stops are still there, as is the
safety, the intellifeed mount, and the integrated dovetail rail. Along with said rail, the
bottom is tapped with two (2) sets of bottom line screw holes, to give you as many options
for mounting your air system as possible. Stock color frames will have the trigger color matched
to the frame.

These frames will bolt onto any marker (classic, RTP, or XValve) with an RTP style rail, with no
modifications. The trigger guard is very large though, so I do no suggest the use of a classic rail
as you likely won't have any place left to mount a foregrip."

(picture and description from www.logicpaintball.com)


Logic also has another vert frame, but it is discontinued, so you will only be able to find them used.

Straight from AGD comes the intelliframe. "Packaged STOCK with black DYE grips and your choice of Blade or Double Triggers. Comes in hand-polished black, matte black, or for a little more you can look good in chrome! This beauty is machined out of a solid block of aluminum and takes over 35 tools to produce. Regular versions (the first 6 listed) fit the Automag, Pro Classic, Minimag, RT Pro and RT ULE Custom.


If you own an Automag RT, be sure to select an RT version (last 6 in the list). DO NOT buy an RT version if you own an RT Pro - these are only for the old Automag RT."


(picture and description from www.airgun.com)

www.themagsmith.com also has the intelliframe custom which has different anno styles, sticky 3's and an RPG trigger.


A more interesting grip frame for the mags comes in the form of the Y and Z grip frames. Y frames were temporarily discontinued. but will be back in production in no time. Z grips have been out of production for a while.

Y-Grip

(Picture taken from the AGD Online Museum)


Z-Grip

(Picture taken from the AGD Online Museum)





ULT
The next upgrade you should get would be the ULT trigger pull kit from AGD.

"The ULE trigger pull kit allows you to drop the trigger pull weight of your gun to 15 ounces! Easy installation / Drop-In retrofit for X-Valves, Emag Valves or Modified Retro-Valves.** NOT suitable for use with Automag/Classic/Minimag Valves.

**Although the ULE trigger pull kit fits in Emag, Xmag and X-Valves, it should not be used in an Emag or Xmag."


(picture and description from www.airgun.com)


Auto-Response trigger
This is a frame that will fire your Mag when you pull, and release the trigger. They are discontinued, and used cost about $200. These are not field legal.



(UThomas' AR Framed Mag)

Video of UThomas' AR Framed Mag:
http://home.comcast.net/~thomas_mitc...toresponse.wmv



Now on to modifications that make your mag shoot faster:

Rapid Fire
First of all, we have all seen the video of Zak Vetter shooting 34bps with a mag. (if not watch the movie on his website www.zakvetter.com) He achieved these speeds by connecting a scuba tank to an RT-Valve Mag and cranking up the input pressure. This gave the trigger extreme reactivity, so all he did was sweet spot the trigger. This can also be achieved with an adjustable tank. It will not work with the ULT. But if you add one or two more shims on it than you need you will get reactivity out of it.

Zak Vetter is probably the leading authority on Mag rapid fire, and his site is very helpful on rapid fire tips.

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paint...isclaimer.html

He also has many videos displaying rapid fire on Mags.

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paint...deos_main.html

Alpha has a how-to on rapid-fire for ULT Mags.

http://home.comcast.net/~jaketakeoko...Pages/main.htm (go to Mag Tech, then Rapid-Fire)

ULT rapid fire video by atm743 :
http://media.putfile.com/atm743-mech-mag-ULT


Sear Mod
Next there is the sear mod. You can do these yourself or have them done professionally.


"- the trigger pull is shorter
- the trigger pull is heavier than stock sear and ULT on/off assembly
- the trigger pull is lighter than stock sear and stock RT on/off assembly
- much less chuffing!
- still can chuff-but mucho less...
- no damage to sear/bolt lock up relationship! ("Jack&Coke" on AO)


A how to was posted on AO by "Jack&Coke"


http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...=trigger+stops

Luke-AO (here on PBN) will do this mod for you at www.lukescustoms.com for a very cheap price.




All of these things will make your mag "walkable" but not like an electro. The fastest you will achieve theoretically will be around 10-15 bps. 34bps with the RT/modded X-Valve and high imput pressure.


That concludes section 1.
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Last edited by m-a-r-k-7 : 04-24-2006 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 12-03-2005, 04:43 PM #2
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Section 2: Pneumags

Basically , it's just a Mag the is fired by using pneumatic switch (like a cocker style 3 way or 2 way) to trigger a pneumatic ram which pulls/pushes the sear to fire the marker. Doing this mod lessens the trigger pull to less than 1mm, and 1oz. In short it's a walkable mech. And it can all be done with under $100. Odds are production models will be available from $300.

Deadly Wind (Ncad on AO) developed the "Hair Trigger" now has the patents for his design. The first patent is owned by PTP. PTP was working on the project, but halted for a while. Officials in the company say they are still going to do it, so we just have to wait. In the newly released Worr Machine line of markers from WGP there is a pneumatic trigger blowback, designed by RRFireblade (Designer of PTP pneuframe) and the patent was licensed to WGP. The 68 Super is also a pneumatically triggered marker, but i does not infringe the patent.

There is a thread on it here on PBN:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=996180

An interesting conversation of the legality of the patents and such took place on PBF
http://www.paintballforum.com/forum/...5&page=1&pp=20


The first person to put up a how to on AO was "Phishpen"
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hlight=pneumag



How to:
http://www.chromaus.com/~shingodownload/phishhowto.pdf

(If link doesn't work I have it saved in a word document, just PM me and I"ll be glad to send it to you)

AlphaMag (Here on PBN) has a list of the parts you will need, and links to the places where you can buy them.

http://home.comcast.net/~jaketakeoko...Pages/main.htm (Go to Mag Tech, then Pneumatic Mod)




(picture of "Phishpen's" "Phishmag")

This isn't a very hard thing to do, and doesn't cost very much, and it is by far the fastest a mech Mag will ever be. The fasted bps achieved on one of these is 20bps. Many people have been doing this mod themselves, so there is a fairly large group to ask advice from.




(Pnaumag built by shorty24 andPneumagger of AO)


(Pneumag made by Rainman229 (www.rainman229.com) as part of "Project Redeye")


(Frame Modified by Rainman229)




(One of the first Pneu-mags made by RRFireblade)
(Text in Pic Reads:
This is one of the very first penu-mags. It was built on an existing Medusa grip frame and has four different trigger positions for testing purposes. That's why the trigger is a little funky looking. There were actually a number of triggers designed to fit this frame. The LPR is located inside the gripframe and is fed without any external plumbing. Its air feed has noghint to do with the gas through foregrip which is only a stock gas through. The marker does fire and function very nicely and has cycled many thousands of times as a testament to the durability of the system. This will likely be the marker I use for any video I get up in the future as it is the only complete version I have assembled at this time. I'm putting this right next to the pic only because I"m sure it will end up in hundreds of places and I don't want to explain it every time.

Trigger pull= 1.5mm
Trigger pull weight = Under 1 oz.
LPR Pressure = ~80psi
ROF Limited only by valve system at ~34BPS)


Alpha's Alpha Mag




Vids:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/rrfire...ll/PnueMag1.WMV

http://www.logicpaintball.com/PneuMag1.wmv

http://premium1.uploadit.org/rrfireb...nueMag-003.jpg

http://www.beog.org/redeye/pnuemag2.wmv

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/uservids.html?pUID=3517

http://media.putfile.com/Mag2

http://media.putfile.com/PneuMag-X-valve-ULT

http://media.putfile.com/Mag3

(Last three Videos are of Wassupstranger67's (AO) Pneumag http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=196059)


And now just for fun: "The Fastest Mag Ever"



http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ht=Plunger+mag

Fastest CPS in the world

End of Section 2
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Last edited by m-a-r-k-7 : 07-02-2006 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 12-03-2005, 05:52 PM #3
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Section 3: Electromags

There are many ways to convert a Mag into an electro.
1.E-mag lowers
2.Logic UMF (Ultimate Mag Frame)
3.Devilmag
4.Hyper/boyaa frames
5.Spydermag Conversions
6.iMag
7.m-Q Valved Mag
8.homebrew




1.E-Mag lowers

What this is, is basically taking the frame and battery pack from an E-mag and putting it on your existing mag.

What you will need:
1. E-mag battery pack (the front thing that looks like a big foregrip)
2. E-mag gripframe
3. New on/off pin
4. X-Valve or an E-mag Valve (classic valves can only keep up to 15bps, before having shootdown)

If you want it to go even faster and have even more modes Predator has come out with an E-mag board.

The XMOD
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...4&page=5&pp=30

The thread is kind of long, but you can get the jist of it starting where the link sends you.

Also, two videos of BigEvil-AO messing around with Xmod'd Xmags.
(on Jayloo, so you might have to log-in)
http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2471.html
http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2464.html

Go to Lornecash's new websight. All of the Xmod info is there, incuding downloads for the Xmod software, manual, and even AGD software.

http://www.niedtech.com/

Arstron has also modded a Dragun T-Board to fit his E-Mag.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=198114



Video:
http://www.arstron.org/tboard/MOV03927.MPG


E-Mag lowers will cost around $250 - $400 if you buy everything used.

http://www.odysseypaintball.com/halovideos.html
(videos 1,2,and 5 are E-mags vids on www.odysseypaintball.com)


(E-Mag, picture taken from www.tunamart.com)


2. Logic UMF Frame



A bolt on Electro Pneumatic frame for the AGD Automag.
It uses air to actuate the existing sear, instead of a giant pancake
solenoid. The result is increased reliability, greatly increased battery
life, and a system that requires less overall tuning (the LPR is set from
us, and you never need to touch it). The system eliminates the need to
tune the ULT (as you must use a stock EMag On/Off), and if you have us install
the eyes, you can switch back to a LVL 7 bolt, eliminating the need to
tune the LVL X, and adding back some air efficiency to boot.

We can do the eye installs, or we will have a list of 'smiths who are able
and willing to do the work we can't fit into our schedule. Of course you
perfectly welcome to do the eye installs yourself. The components will be
included with the kit.

Specs:
Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install)
Roller Bearing Trigger
Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
Magnetic trigger return
DM5 Grips
Huge trigger guard
Integrated Dovetail Rail
Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
Does not use the ULT
(you must use the stock Emag on/off included with the kit)
Uses one 9V battery


Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail
(like most of what Rogue sells).
Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug.
(our new eye covers will only work with the ULE bodies. All others
get Eblade covers or goop at the customers discretion.)

Will not work with twist lock bodies.

It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be
involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).



Dry Firing (sound graphed at 18 bps)
http://www.logicpaintball.com/UEF-DryFireDivx.avi

Shooting Paint (sound graphed at 20 bps)
http://www.logicpaintball.com/UEF-WithPaint.avi

(picture, movies, and description from www.logicpaintball.com)

These frames are $450


3.Devilmags


These can be purchased from www.devilsden.tv


SPECS:
90* Frame
Duel Break Beam eyes
Unlimited bps with eyes on
MROF 45 BPS with eyes off
Xvalve with ULE trigger kit installed
ULE body milled with eyes installed. Predator board with different modes of fire and all settings done by trigger
Power On/Off
Ripper Trigger mod



(picture and specs from www.devilsden.tv)




http://www.kemicalreaction.com/devil.../devilmag.html

This will cost you $900 for the whole gun.

Odds are after he finishes all his current orders Devil Mags will be discontinued.

4.Hyper/Boyaa Frames

The Hyperframe replaces the trigger rod linking the trigger and sear with a microswitch to sense trigger pulls, control electronics, and an electromagnetic solenoid to move the sear. When electricity is run through it, a magnetic field is generated, which draws a piece of iron closer to it. The Hyperframe's solenoid is situated so that when it is actuated, it moves the Automag's sear, releasing the bolt, and closing the on/off valve. Hyperframes come in two styles, 13bps and 20pbs. I know very little about boyaa frames. They are both discontinued, and used will cost from $150-$200.


http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...ag/index.shtml

The Hypermag FAQ on AO:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...sponse+fra me

Video 3 and 4 are hyperframed Mags.
http://www.odysseypaintball.com/halovideos.html




(top Mag has a hyperframe, it is owned by Jaan of PBN)





www.rossgunniv.com/noisycricket1.wmv
www.rossgunniv.com/noisycricket2.wmv
(Hypermag belonging to Sk8ermog of AO)

Boo-Yahh frame:
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/elcd.html




5.Spydermag conversions


These are a way to mod either the sears of the Mag and Spyder to work torether, or reversing the Solenoid in the Spyder frame.


Sear Mod by tonybhall of PBN:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=696650

http://www.jayloo.com/files/vids/200...ag_II_323a.wmv





Reverse Noid by Arstron:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1245424



http://webpages.charter.net/arstron/dragun-mag.mpg

(Video of Astron's Dragun-Mag)


luke-AO made his own that used a nice happy medium of sear/noid modding.

"I didn’t care for the approach for the 2 different conversions (flipped ‘noid or the sear mod) that are currently being done. So I came up with a completely different idea for the conversion. No offence to anyone that has done them before me, because the guys I’ve seen doing the conversions are using drills and dremmel’s, that in itself deserves respect.

Like I said, my approach was considerably different. What I did was a sear mod, flipped ‘noid with a custom sear tripper to trip the Mag sear at the on/off.

In a nut shell the frame mounts via the ESP rear frame hole and a new one is drilled up front. The Mag sear trigger rod arm is completely removed at the base of the sear. The ESP solenoid is flipped around in the frame. Then a custom sear tripper is fitted in the back side of the frame that allows the Mag sear to be tripped directly under the on/off pin.

At this time, the mod looks suitable for Mags running an ULE on/off (trigger) and a RT Pro style rail. The “sear tripper” is adjustable which will help with the conversion using different rails with the exception of the original AM/MM rails; they are too narrow for the ESP frame."

Luke is now offering a spydermag conversion for a decent amount of money through his website http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0024.htm







(pictures, and descriptions from luke-AO and his site, www.lukescustoms.com)

These won't cost much to make if you have the right tools, and will shoot as fast a the Spyder frame you put on it. These can be T-Boarded and drilled from eyes. (www.scenariodreams.com)


6. iMag

The iMag uses an ION board and noid to trip a Mag's sear. It was first done by Nicad and Scott Hudnall.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189803



(Pictures of Scott Hudnall's mod)
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Last edited by m-a-r-k-7 : 07-04-2006 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:40 PM #4
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7.M-q valve

The m-q valve is currently out for cockers. Odds are it will never come out for Mags because of the lack of interest there would be. If it did come out for the mag it would work similarly to the cocker version, and allow the mag to have all mechanical components bypassed. This would mean being able to E-Blade a mag with no modification.





8."Homebrew"

There are always people trying new things with mags, including people making them elecrto.

The second I found on www.zakvetter.com It is known as "The Frankenmag"





Quote:
Originally Posted by EZ-MAG (AO)
I think my original thoughts about this project came from looking at autocockers. I just decided that it would be really cool to have an air ram actuated electrically controlled mag. I used a Z-grip because it gave me the most room in the back to work with. All the componentsI used, I got from work. I started with a bafricated banner photoeye that looks for a bolt that I added to the back of the trigger. It opens an electric solenoid Mac valve which in turn sends low pressure air from a seperate reg. to the air ram. I needed at least 22-30volts DC to operate the electrics. I thought about a seperate battery pack, but couldn't find a good location. So I added a battery in series to the hopper. Giving me 27volts from the hopper but still allowing it to work normally.
Here is a little more detail on the workings of the EZ-MAG
I started with a Banner fiber optic sensor (SM312F) with a bafricated fiber cable, meaning it starts as 2 fibers and combines into 1 and reflects off whatever you are trying to sense. The output from that sensor, triggered by a bolt attached to the back of the trigger itself, turns on a Mac valve, model 35A-AAA=DFBJ-1KD 24 VDC. The air coming out of this valve goes directly to an air cylinder, which I don't have a number for but its about 3.5 inches long and about 5/8 inch in diameter, a shorter stroke cylinder would be fine. The supply air for the whole thing comes from a "T" off the line from the tank that is regulated by an SMC reg, part number NAR2000-NO2. I drilled a hole in the back of the Z-grip for an M-6 bolt to slide through. It is connected to the sear by an oval shaped washer sliped over the bottom of the sear and welded to the bolt. The bolt comes out the back of the frame a little over an inch and is attached to the air cylinder with cross link made from thin aluminum bar. The power comes from the hopper that I added a third 9Volt battery to, to get enough voltage, 27volts. I just tied a small headphone style plug into one side of the 2 existing batts and came off the other side and connected the third in series and back to the plug. I also ended up putting a proximity switch on the safety, because I found that if the electrics were left on when the safety was off for mechanical mode it would fire once by the sensor and once mechanically. The resulting kickback of the sear would push the bolt back across the sensor and if I kept a little pressure on the trigger it would just cycle back and forth making it full auto.



Warbeak2099 is the owner/creator of the "Arachnamag" It's basically a spydermag in an Vert Frame.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hlight=arachna



The "Arachnamag" was in spired by Joni's mod on AO (SWE joni on PBN)
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=162622





Vids:
Shooting paint. Yes it's chopping. 6 months old paint that's been sitting in the open,a lvl10 set for reballs and old batteries in the egg = blender.

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2485.html

Dryfiring:

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2482.html

No bounce what so ever:

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2484.html

"the electrician" on AO not only made a pneumag, but an electro pneumatic frame.


http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=125891





BigEvil also made a similar Electro-Mag


(BigEvil's custom Electro-pneumatic Mag)
http://www.bigevilonline.com/modules...0102400ba75d#8

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=197674

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2519.html

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2518.html

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2517.html


temps (AO) has built an automag with a shcoker frame on it. It uses a solenoid to control an mpa-3 ram to push the sear



http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=199633

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=199632



The P-mag built by Dager of PBN

Box-less version






Plunger


(Plunger built by Thorpedo of PBN)

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ht=Plunger+mag

http://attila.sdsu.edu/~thorp/Plunger.htm

http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...7&page=1&pp=30


End of section 3.





FIN
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:01 PM #5
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Anti-Chop

Well now that you have a blazing fast you need some way to make it not chop. As we all know M4gz r teh choppzorz!111seven!!11. Or so thinks a lot of the paintball world. There are four main ways to stop all of your chopping problems.

1. Parabolic Feed Plug
2. Faster Loader
3. Intellifeed
4. Level 10 anti-chop bolt kit
5. Eyes


1. Parabolic Feed Plug

If you have an older powerfeed Mag you may have occasionally had a problem with mis-fed balls. This my be because older feed plugs had a flat piece to them.


http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=12911


2. Faster Loader

If you're shooting fast and experienceing a lot of chops your loader may not be keeping up with your Mag. This is really only a problem in gravity feed and agitated loaders (VL 200 and revolutions).

The top of the martket force feed loaders of today are:

Halo B


Odyssey Paintball Products is proud to introduce the H.A.L.O. (Highly Advanced Loader Operations) computer controlled loader system.

Features:

22 + balls/second
Belt drive
Spring loaded drive cone
Computer controlled
Reflective sensor technology
Reinforced feed neck design
Low battery indicator
20,000 rds/battery change
170 rds ball capacity
1 year limited warranty
Now including the upgraded Z-code software
Also includes the rip drive built in!

(Descriptions and Pictures from www.actionvillage.com)

The Halo B also has upgrades for it to help preformance, such as the Victory board and Delrin Drive cones. (http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/...er-accessories)

Warp Feed



Worlds First Force Feeding System

Weight - 15 ozs
Length - 6 inches
Operates on one 9 volt battery
Exceeds 20 shots per second feed rate with 12 volt input
Designed for E-mag, but adapters are available from Pro Team Products for most markers

The Warp Feed is the worlds first pressure feed system for paintball markers. Instead of relying on gravity to feed your paint, the Warp positively and gently pushes a steady stream of paintballs up and into your breach! The system is a friction drive utilizing soft urethane disks in the feed wheel. The disks actually grip the paintballs on their sides and will allow the balls to slip when they are finished feeding a ball. In this way the system can not jam or crush paint. The mounting bracket provided bolts to the bottom of the grip frame and will allow the Warp to swivel to the most comfortable position. The Warp has two main benefits, first is reliably feeds paintballs faster than you can possibly pull the trigger and second it removes that large blimp from the top of your marker!! The Warp can be activated just by the adjustable vibration sensor when the marker fires or can be directly interfaced to your Emag or other electronic marker.

(Pictures and Descriptions from www.airgun.com)

Empire B



Feeds 22+ balls per second
Sound activated - no problems with dark shell paint. Also able to work through ball breaks in the hopper, which, in the past would interfere with the eye sensor.
Auto turn off allows you to conserve power and the low battery LED indicates when to change batteries.
Able to work with 6AA or optional 4 AA batteries. The board adjusts the power to the motor depending on the batteries used. The 4 AA makes for a lighter hopper.
The Rip Drive is a manual feed mechanism perfectly suited for any player who wants to have a backup system in case the loader's force feed system goes down or the batteries die. It also allows you to unjam paint, preload balls at the chrono without turning your loader on and by rotating the Rip drive in reverse you can easily unload the hopper.
Holds approximately 190 paintballs

(Pictures and Descriptions from www.actionvillage.com)

Velocity


Feed rate of up to 25 BPS on the marker
Free fall rate up to 35 BPS
Adjustable Select Force Technology
Electronically controlled anti-jam propeller
Reprogrammable software
Dual vision system
Engineered with light weight, extreme impact resistant polymer making it the largest capacity and lightest weight loader on the market today.

(Pictures and Descriptions from www.actionvillage.com)

eVLution II


Feed rate of up to 19 balls per second
Special designed feeding propeller with new JVON flexible blades
Stronger spring loaded curved door which opens down acting as a funnel for faster fills and less spills
High impact resistant shell and longer neck
Easy cleaning design takes after the VL Revolution's field proven construction
LED light low-battery indicator
IR sensor controlling on/off propeller actuation and battery saving circuitry
Holds about 190 paintballs
(Pictures and descriptions from www.actionvillage.com)

Q-Loader


Marker Compatibility
Adapts to virtually any paintball marker in a number of dynamic configurations.
Standard Size Clip
Replaces standard reload pods and works with some existing harnesses and belts.
Constant Feed + Pressure
Maintains paintballs in constant alignment and pressure regardless of the marker orientation.
30+ Balls Per Second
Feeds paintballs faster than any hopper system, because each q-pod is loaded with a presorted stream of 100 rounds.
Increased Maneuverability
Allows the marker to operate smoothly at any angle and even while being shaken.
Lower Target Area
Reduces the player target profile by mounting the loading system under the barrel.
Silent Game Play
Feeds paintballs silently and reduces paintball rattle by isolating every paintball within a helical drive tube.
Clip-Based Loading
Robust Construction
Utilizes stainless steel and polycarbonate construction and is designed to deliver over 1,000,000 paintballs during its life.
Reduces jamming, miss feeding and ball chopping and other problems associated with loading systems that sort paintballs while firing.
Zero Batteries
Each q-pod stores enough energy to feed 100 rounds which means you'll never run out of power.
(Pictures and Descriptions from www.qloader.com)




3. Intellifeed

Wiring an intellifeed will make your loader load after every time you pull the trigger. Intelliframes come with a mounting bracket to make installation easier.



www.airgun.com has how-to's on the subject.

http://www.airgun.com/downloads/eureka3.pdf

http://www.airgun.com/downloads/intelliwarp.pdf



4. Level 10 Anti-Chop Bolt Kit



"Once in a while, there comes a product that revolutionizes the way the game is played. LvL 10 is definitely the latest. As one of the beta testers from the beginning of the Lvl 10 design, I experienced everything - good and bad. The Lvl 10 is the culmination of AGD's approach to creating the perfect marker," said Francia. "Tournament play can present some of the most demanding situations in the way you have to shoot your gun. I never had an instance that it failed to shoot. I believe even the most fickle of gun owners will try and stay with an AGD marker with this modification in it."

AGD has been hard at work, refining the performance of their Automag line of markers. What they came up with is the new LvL 10. LvL 10 replaces the stock bolt and power tube tip with the newly redesigned Superbolt II and power tube tip assembly kit. With the kit properly tuned, your Automag bolt will bounce off of even the most brittle of tournament paint! Kits work on all AGD markers, including the Automag, MiniMag, RT, RT Pro and E-Mag.
(Pictures and descriptions from www.airgun.com

More Info can be found here: http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

Another helpfulk link http://www.havoc-online.com/11730.html

The LVL 10 come stock on X-Valves, or can be purchased seperatly.




Here are a lot of LVL 10 videos:
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=agd



5. Eyes


In the modern world of electros the anti-chop method of choice is eyes. With some electro conversions Eyes can be added to automags. It will require you to drill a hole in the body and fashon some eye covers. X-Mags come stock with an ACE board, there are ones made for mags, but they are rare and hard to find. The E-Mag Predator boards also have ACE, but those still arn't out.

Spydermags can be T-boarded which can accept eyes.
Logic's Electromag frame can accept eyes.
Devilmags can accept eyes.
iMags can accept eyes.

End of Anti-Chop
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:08 PM #6
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Quote:
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At one point you need to drill a hole through through the back of the grip frame to the inside, so I would reccomend a drill press. A hand drill would be okay, but runs a higher risk.
ok, so do it while i'm still in metals if possible. Also, is a pneumag tourney legal, because a guy just rubbed his to rake it and it was fast as heck (classic valve too).
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:14 PM #7
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Weight Reduction

In addition to being slow and chopping machines Mags are also "Teh heavy Br1ckzorz!!!eleventy-two!111." AGD has come out with ULE products that greatly reduce the weight of Automags.

Most parts of a Mag can ULE'd

1. Bodies
2. Rails
3. Grip Frames


1. ULE Bodies

AGD ULE bodies


Uses Cocker thread barrel (not included) instead of twist-lock barrel.
Screw in feed tube with Angel threads
Ball detent (Angel thread)
MULTIPLE Colors!!
Fits RT Pro, RT ULE Custom, Emag, Minimag, Classic
We call them ULE for "Ultra Light Engineering" because these babies are light as a feather! 3.9 oz total weight with feed cup and detent makes you faster to the 50!Available in vert feed or warp left/warp right
(PIctures and descriptions from www.airgun.com

RPG Exile Body


Includes:
1- Exile Body
1- Matching Sub-Zero Feedneck
1- AGD Detent
Features:
~ULE at 4.3 oz.(Total weight with RPG feedneck and AGD detent)
~Fits flush with RT/E-mag rails
~Hand-Polished for true gloss finish
~Vertical Feed Only

RPG Pariah body


Included:
1- Pariah ULE Body
1- Matching Sub-Zero Feedneck
1- AGD Detent
Features:
~ULE at 4.2 oz.(Total weight with RPG feedneck and AGD detent)
~Fits flush with AGD Classic Automag/MiniMag rails
~Comes standard with New! RPG Clamping Feedneck
~Hand-Polished for true gloss finish
~Vertical Feed Only
(Pictures and descriptions of Exile and Pariah from www.themagsmith.com)

Karta Body


The Karta from Deadlywind is a fully sculptured, 4-axis CNC milled aluminum body/rail kit for the Automag. We start with authentic, AGD factory spec'd aluminum "Slug" body and AGD body rails. Starting with these components ensures that all our bodies will work 100% with AGD equipment... no tolerance or QC issues with these beauties!
The Karta accepts:
WGP Autococker compatable barrels
WDP Angel compatable feednecks
WDP Angel compatable ball detents.
Any AGD trigger frame
Any AGD valve except the RT-Classic and Sydarm
The Karta body kit includes the Karta aluminum mainbody, Karta sculptured Emag or RTPro rail, and dual AGD (WDP Angel style) ball detents.
For $20.00 extra, the rail can be ULE ("Ultra Light Engineering") milled to shed another 2.4oz, bringing the Karta's rail weight from 5.5oz down to 3.1oz! The Karta body alone weighs 4.1oz.

(Pictures and descriptions from www.deadlywind.com)

Dallara Body


The Dallara from Deadlywind is a fully sculptured, 4-axis CNC milled aluminum, body/rail kit for the Automag. We start with authentic, AGD factory spec'd aluminum "Slug" body and AGD body rails. Starting with these components ensures that all our bodies will work 100% with AGD equipment... no tolerance or QC issues with these beauties!
The Dallara accepts:
WGP Autococker compatable barrels
WDP Angel compatable feednecks
WDP Angel compatable ball detents.
Any AGD trigger frame
Any AGD valve except the RT-Classic and Sydarm
The Dallara body kit includes the Dallara aluminum mainbody, Dallara sculptured AM/MM (AutoMag/MiniMag) rail, and dual AGD (WDP Angel style) ball detents.
The Dallara body and rail weigh 4.2oz each for a combined total of 8.4oz.


2. Rails

RPG Recon Rail


Recon Rail Features:
~ Machined from an Authentic AGD Rail
~ E-mag/RT Pro Sear compatible
~ Weight = 3.7 oz.
~ Adjustable front foregrip slot
~ Adjustable back accessory slot
~ Fits Tac-1 body, AGD ULE body, and RPG Exile ULE Body

RPG Shadow Rail


Shadow Rail Features:
~ Machined from an Authentic AGD Rail
~ E-mag/RT Pro Sear compatible
~ Weight = 2.7 oz.
~ Adjustable front foregrip slot
~ Adjustable back accessory slot
~ Fits the AGD ULE body, RPG Exile ULE body, and Tac-1 body

AGD Milled Rail


Luke Milling

http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0010.htm


http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0011.htm

RRFireblade Milling


http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=197880

3. Grip Frames

The lightest grip frames you will find for

Mech: RPG ULF
RPG Chimera Frame

Electro: You can have E-Mag frames ULE'd, removing all non-essential metal, making your E-Mag slightly lighter. E-mag Battery packs can also be milled to reduce weight.

End of Weight Reduction
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:23 PM #8
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Speaking of tha I havne't really seen Karta around lately.

Snoopay: I would think so, unless you were playing psp rules or something with a bps cap it would be fine, as long as there's no bounce. I don't think there should be if its set up right, but then again I'm no expert.
oh ok, thanks.
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:26 PM #9
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As long as the settings on the gun don't bounce and it is true semi, and you are in a tournament with uncapped semi, it's legal.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:30 AM #10
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A classic valve does work with an emag, just at 15 bps, your velocity slowly starts to lower, and who needs to shoot faster then that anyway?

Good write up mark7, I will get some better pictures after I get my next (and final version) frame built.

For hyperframe info look here:
http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...ag/index.shtml

I fount this on the boo-yah! (mako) spyder frame, I couldnt find anything on the mag frame though.
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/elcd.html

As for other electronic options:
electricians electro pneumatic frame:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=125891

Here is jonis thread, but the pictures arent working, he put electronics in a vert logic frame.
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=162622

Just thougt you might be interested in those links.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:43 AM #11
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Here's my "ArachnaMag" mod. Basically a copy of Joni's, except with spyder esp electronics and a tboard.
http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hlight=arachna

Vids sometime around xmas.
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:27 AM #12
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wow, I forgot totally about the arachnamag, sorry I'll add it in.

Also, a thanks to arstron for that useful info.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:17 PM #13
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Be sure to add Joni's in if you're gonna add mine. He did it first. I just did it with cheaper, more common parts.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:19 PM #14
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I did, its right after yours.
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Old 12-05-2005, 05:48 PM #15
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Very cool, this should be stickied. Incredibly informative and useful thread. It will certaintly cut down on the numerous threads about the subject.
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Old 12-05-2005, 05:59 PM #16
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Thank you, it supprising wasn't very hard to put together, it just took a lot of time to find all of the pictures and host them.

Is www.zakvetter.com opperational? Every time I try to go there it says 404 page cannot be found.
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Old 12-05-2005, 06:04 PM #17
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Thank you, it supprising wasn't very hard to put together, it just took a lot of time to find all of the pictures and host them.

Is www.zakvetter.com opperational? Every time I try to go there it says 404 page cannot be found.
Page was suspended for some reason.
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:09 PM #18
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Added a #6 to the electromag section.
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:55 AM #19
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i got the mq mag
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:19 AM #20
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oooh, first picture ive seen of the mq mag. Have you actualy played with it, and if so how do you like it?
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:55 AM #21
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That's not him, it's the guy from pbx who made it. He just meant he had the picture.
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