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Old 10-23-2005, 03:02 PM #1
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Ego Board And Tuning Guide

EGO BOARD AND TUNING GUIDE
Here is a short explanation of almost every setting in the board
Timing
Dwell-the time the rammer and bolt remain forward, raising it increases velocity and at some point will loose consistency, see the tuning guide at the end to tune this properly after your ego is broken in
Fsdo-the time that is added onto your regular dwell to increase velocity of your first shot to overcome first shot shoot down, this should be left stock unless you notice a really low first shot reading, then raise until it becomes inline with the rest of your shots
Off Rof-this is the rate of fire that the gun is capped at in semi with eyes off

Filter
Ball-the time the board needs to detect a break in the break beam to allow the next shot to register
Empty-the amount of time the board needs to detect a void between shots to allow the next shot to register
Pull-the amount of time the board needs to detect a trigger pull to be considered valid
Release- the amount of time the board needs to detect a release of the trigger to allow the next pull to be valid
TT tol-this is the amount the board has a tolerance for a bounce, the higher it is the less bounce it will allow through
TT band- this percent determines how far across the trigger pull the bounce filters work

Version 1.00
Semi-uncapped with eyes on and paint, capped to your “off rof” with eyes off
Psp- ramps up to 15bps starting at 4 bps with 1second restart
Cfoa-semi capped at 15bps
Millenium-ramps up to 15bps starting at 8bps
Taining-uncapped

Version 1.06 (max rof is capped at 15)
Semi 1- uncapped with eyes on and paint, capped at "max rof" with eyes off
Semi 2- semi capped at "max rof"
Ramp1- ramps up to “max rof” starting at 4bps with 1second restart
Ramp2- ramps up to "max rof" starting at 8bps
Taining-uncapped

Ego board settings tuning guide
Set your trigger how you like it for feeling. Now extremely slowly pull your trigger and guesstimate at what point in the pull the gun activates (fires), either in the beginning, middle or end of the pull(putting your activation point in the middle of the pull is best for reducing bounce). Once you know that follow this and adjust your ttpul and ttrel accordingly

Activation
Point_______Pull___Release
Beginning____4_______2
Middle______3________3
End_________2_______4
(If you have a particularly short pull with little travel then reduce all these numbers above by 1 each)

1. Now once you have that set, put your tt tol at 8% and tt band at 78%. This should be a good start point. Now see if your gun bounces preferably with paint, but dry fire would be best, training mode does not accurately show bounce so don’t bother.
2. If you still have bounce proceed to raise your band to 80 and your tol to 6.
3. If bounce still persists then try to raise the band to mid 80’s if it still bounces after that then raise your pull and release one each and you should be good.

Now if your bounce stopped at the first tt settings or the second you will want to try and drop your pull and release by one each, if it bounces then go to the next step in tt tol and band.

*NOTE* Settings aren't magic, they can't do anything beyond tune your gun and make it more or less bouncy. But as you have read not one set of settings will have the same effect on all egos, every ego is different, and for that matter every ego solenoid has a dwell at which it operates most efficently resulting in the best consistency. As for bounce settings it is next to impossible to share settings with somebody and hope that it will eliminate bounce, the best that you can do is to get some good baselines to work off of and tweak to your own trigger. So to recap, moose's settings aren't magical and won't necessarily work perfectly on your gun, the reason why moose's settings are infamous is mostly because the egos he sent out and tuned himself worked great because each had special attention, the same effect will not necessarily happen to your gun, so don't go setting hoping to find one set that works, make your own thats what the manual is there for.

Ego dwell and lpr tuning guide
These are two posts posted by Jack Wood of planet eclipse in this thread, http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1082401

"The first think I would recommend, as mentioned above, is to increase the dwell up to 9, and maybe even 9.5-10.0
Some guns that leave the factory have to have the dwell raised over standard 8.0 ms in order to reach higher, more consistent readings, so it is normal and nothing to be conserned about. It is just a fact of life that some solenoids/QEVs require a slightly longer electrical pulse to achieve a consistent rammer pulse.
Jack Wood"

"That depends very much on the gun.
The only way to set it perfectly is to keep upping the dwell over the chrono. Stop upping the dwell when the velocity peaks, and then bring it back down a couple of points.
That should give maximum velocity for minimum dwell. Obviously every time you alter the LPR you should do this again to get it absolutely spot on. Also, if you find you get a massive gain in velocity when you start upping the dwell (ie it sends the velocity 320-330 +) then bring the in-line pressure down, leave the LPR and double check the dwell by dropping itand raising it back to the peak velocity.
Basically it isa very delicat interplay between in-line pressure (because that is what stops the valve from opening AND what fires theball out) LPR pressure, valve dwell and hammer/bolt/pin mass.
Jack"
From these two posts by jack wood i got these steps
1. Set lpr to the point you want, i hear 2 turns in from flush works like a dream
2. Keep raising the dwell over the chrono until it peaks, but if it begins to go above 320-330 then lower your inline a little, and then lower the dwell a bit and continue to raise it until it peaks. Then you are good. I have also noticed that if you just raise your dwell until the gun seems most consistent it works just as well, but keep in mind you will want some high quality paint to get accurate readings.
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Last edited by dmansr25sd : 10-15-2006 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:13 PM #2
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ok....i just got my ego and it didn't come with a manual...so how do I get to where I can change the settings?
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:16 PM #3
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can someone put this under ultimate sticky. i found this very helpful.
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:30 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atg-wgp
can someone put this under ultimate sticky. i found this very helpful.
well i kinda took that ultimate sticky and made alot of parts and made my own, which the mods haven't stickied yet, its in my sig if you wanna look around to get more info
i made it in the hopes that the mods would take notice and replace everyother sticky except the rules with it but whatever, if it helps people thats all that matters
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:15 PM #5
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very helpful
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Old 12-24-2005, 03:37 PM #6
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how many times have you tried to do this?
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"Originally posted by Bunkered89: Right. Let's move this thread to a section where we would get mostly biased responses. Great logic, chief. I think the OP wanted opinions from ST in general and not the Evangelists in ST:R."
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Old 12-24-2005, 05:33 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EGO_FREAK
how many times have you tried to do this?


It's not like he made it today.

Last edited by Bush'em : 12-24-2005 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 12-24-2005, 10:54 PM #8
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yea it seems like ive seen a couple of these threads though?
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"Originally posted by Bunkered89: Right. Let's move this thread to a section where we would get mostly biased responses. Great logic, chief. I think the OP wanted opinions from ST in general and not the Evangelists in ST:R."
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:53 PM #9
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dmansr25sd

What do you meen when you say:
"Set lpr to the point you want, i hear 2 turns in from flush works like a dream"

What does it meen "2 turns in from flush"

Sorry about my ignorance.
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:11 PM #10
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It means having the LPR adjustment screw two turns in from flush with the top of the LPR body.
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:39 AM #11
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Ok.
Thanks for the info.

I'm to the EGO world.
But, correct me if I'm wrong, tuning an EGO LPR is just like tuning a Cocker LPR?
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:44 PM #12
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no,its not.you set the LPR mainly where you want it.like flush,or 2 turns in are most common.THEN set the dwell.
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:21 PM #13
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yea im confused with the lpr thing too, what exactly do you do to make it "2 turns in from flush" do you just turn the nob under the barrel 720 degrees? (2 circles)
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:41 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitestripes9805
yea im confused with the lpr thing too, what exactly do you do to make it "2 turns in from flush" do you just turn the nob under the barrel 720 degrees? (2 circles)
Page 27 of the manual FTW!

That "knob" is the LPR cap. It holds the internals and turning it will have no effect other than removing the LPR from the body. If you look down the barrel, towards the marker, inside the cap is the adjuster screw (metal/silver looking piece). This is what you want to adjust with an allen wrench.
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:01 PM #15
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i don't have a place where an allen wrench fits though. I looked straight down and saw the silver thing but it doesn't fit an allen wrench its flat. I see 4 threads and then an o-ring then that silver flat thing.
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:09 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitestripes9805
i don't have a place where an allen wrench fits though. I looked straight down and saw the silver thing but it doesn't fit an allen wrench its flat. I see 4 threads and then an o-ring then that silver flat thing.
what are you talking about!?

look at the manual
or short of that click this link
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1243048
go to the second diagram and look at number 20, that is your lpr adjustment screw, it will have a hole to fit an allen wrench into, in the diagram as is the adjustment screw is flush(also meaning flat with the outside of the lpr cap(knob thingy))
also flush is a common term used alot in word working, and in common context, dictionary.com something next time you don't know a word k to whoever posted asking it, great site by the way very helpful from time to time
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:38 AM #17
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yea i took it to my local shop and they said that i was missing an adjustment screw when i bought it. ( i bought it used ) So that would explain why it doesn't shoot and why i can't adjust it.
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Old 02-21-2006, 06:52 PM #18
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sorry but i dont understand when u say make the dwell increase until it peaks, do u mean until it cant go up enymore or until the velocity doesnt get eny higher. And if u mean velocity, do u mean the gun velocity or the velocity aloud at the field. And what should we set the inline reg to before we play with the dwell.
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Old 02-21-2006, 07:03 PM #19
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Until the velocity doesn't change much. I wish you hadn't brought up a dead thread like this.

And when we mean velocity, the gun velocity. Regardless of what the HP reg is set at, the dwell should stop changing the fps alot when you get to a certain point.
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:35 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmansr25sd
EGO BOARD AND TUNING GUIDE

TT tol-this is the amount the board has a tolerance for a bounce, the higher it is the less bounce it will allow through

..........................
2. If you still have bounce proceed to raise your tol to 80 and your band to 6.
3. If bounce still persists then try to raise the tol to mid 80’s if it still bounces after that then raise your pull and release one each and you should be good.
These extracts are wrong.

To stop bounce increase TT Band and lower TT Tol.
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:37 PM #21
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The farther they are, the less bouncy it'll be. Too much and it will start not counting trigger pulls...

Hey Stawb, you willing to part with the No-blocker anytime?
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