[Madpooh]

Link to PbNation Rules

ICD Forum Rules
-Post all questions in the main area, not in this FAQ area.
-No buy sell trade threads of any kind
-Use PMs for contacting specific people
-No flamming/swearing/acting like an idiot
-Please use the search function to prevent clutter and repeat threads/questions.
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-No leaving ICD threads

ICD Contact Information
Address:
Indian Creek Design
1019 First Street North
Nampa, ID 83687

Phone #:
(208) 468-0446

Hours:
Mon-Fri 8:00am to 5:00pm mnt time.

ICD takes breaks at 9:30am and 2:45pm and lunch from 11:30 to 12:30. If you call within these times you most likely wont get anyone.

Links

Official BKO Picture Thread
BKO Troubleshooting
Difference between B2K3 and 2K3 BKO
Chopping FAQ
Trigger frame FAQ
Ultimate BKO Upgrade
BKO Schematics
Wiring Diagrams
BKO Screw and O-ring sizes
Appraisal thread
Indian Creek Design Feedneck information!

Tutorials

Tutorial: Punch pin removal and install/Microswitch install
Tutorial: Acidcustom Trigger Install and Review (Install is similar to other triggers)
Tutorial: O-Ring Detent Reinforcement Mod
Tutorial: Disassembling and lubing a BKO ram (new style ram)
Tutorial: Replacing the LED
Tutorial: How to remove and install a valve (this is a bushmaster, but is similar to a BKO)
Tutorial: Macdev Sonic LPR lubing

Tutorials (Video clips) (Special thanks to Eric the Great for the clips)
Tutorial: How to clean and lube the Bushmaster Low Pressure Regulator (LPR)
Tutorial: How to clean and lube the 2K3 Bushmaster and BKO High Pressure Regulator (HPR) (also on 2K4 markers)
Tutorial: How to clean and lube the Freestyle High Pressure Regulator (HPR) (also on very few B2k4's, all Freestyle's, and all Promaster's)

[Madpooh]

Currently the BKO has many upgrades. The only performance upgrade that is not available for the BKO is a lighter ram shaft. A few things that BKO users upgrade first is the barrel, high pressure regulator (HPR), bolt, and so on. The only main components that you need right away when you purchase a brand new BKO is an electronic loader (most users prefer a Viewloader Evolution II or an Odyssey Halo B), a drop forward/unimount/rail, and a tank (a compressed air tank is highly recommended). A few companies that make upgrades for the BKO are Vaporworks, Zenitram Mfg., Macdev and etc.

Bolt: Stock Indian Creek Design bolts are good lightweight bolts. They are made of delrin. Some BKO users do suffer from blowback because the bolt bore is smaller than the breech bore. A good way to solve this is to get a new bolt. Some bolts for BKOs:

-Vaporworks Vapor Bolt
-Shocktech Super Fly Bolt
-Bonebrake Z-4 Bolt
-Tantrum 2003 Dezign Bolt

High Pressure Regulator (HPR): The high pressure regulator (HPR) is one of the key parts on the BKO that makes it consistant. Earlier generation ICD regulators were not design very well, but the new 2004 high pressure regulator (the one used on the new ICD Freestyles) is a very well made regulator. Since there are so many companies that make HPRs, I will list a few regulators I trust using that have great recharge rates:


-Custom Products Grip Regulator
-Akalmp (AKA) Sidewinder Regulator
-Akalmp (AKA) 2 Liter Regulator
-Macdev Gladiator Regulator
-Palmer Pursuit Fatty Stabilizer Regulator

Low Pressure Regulator (LPR): The low pressure regulator (LPR) is a key part. If the LPR is not kept clean, it will lead to fluctuations in the regulator which can potentially damage the solenoid. A list of LPR's:

2003 and older BKOs with Zenitram ASA to accept an Autococker regulator (Since there are so many Autococker LPRs you can use on a BKO, I will list the ones that i trust using.)

-Palmer Pursuit Rock Regulator (regular long size or micro)
-Shocktech FGP Regulator

2004 BKO

-Vaporworks Hoseless FMD Rock Regulator
-Macdev Sonic Regulator (NOTE: Macdev ram gauge that comes in the kit does not work in BKOs!)
-Zenitram Micro Rock Adapter Assembly
-Akalmp (AKA) SCM-3

Valve: New high flow valves are great in reducing the operating pressure of the marker. A list of valves:

-Akalmp (AKA) Tornado Valve
-Macdev Red Valve
-Vaporworks Vapor Valve
-Zenitram Valve

ASA Adapters: ASA adapters can be used for a new LPR (only on older BKOs) or a new feel. Currently the only company that makes ASA adapters for BKO's is Zenitram. For the old BKOs you can get a straight ASA or one with a 15 degree angle on it with a hole for an Autococker LPR. For the new 2004 BKOs you can only get a 15 degree angle ASA.

-Zenitram Adapter

Feedneck: New feednecks is a nice upgrade to have but it is not a necessary one. The purpose of a new feedneck would be looks and also holding the hopper. The stock ICD feedneck can not hold hoppers will thick necks and this is were a new feedneck would come in. ICD BKOs can use Smart Parts Impulse feednecks but it is not recommended. A list of feednecks that are made to fit BKOs:

-Chipley Custom Machine (CCM) Feedneck
-Vaporworks No-Rise
-Paintball Kingdom Bushy and BKO Clamp Low Rise

Trigger: Early 2005 a few companies has started to manufacture new triggers for the BKOs 2K3 (new style) trigger frame. Some triggers are:

-Vaporworks S-4 Bearing Trigger
-Acidcustom Trigger

Trigger frame: The 2003 and 2004 BKOs have a nice adjustable trigger frame. But there are upgrades for them. As of now the only aftermarket trigger frame made for BKOs is by Zenitram. But there are a few recently discontinued ones as well (Off The Break Vert frame, Zenitram Z-Grip). But the only trigger frame currently made and being sold is:

-Zenitram 45 Grip Frame

Volumizer: A new volumizer is a great upgrade in increasing air capacity in the marker. Unfortunately, volumizers are only able to fit on 2003 and older BKOs. Some volumizers are:

-Vaporworks Ram Cap
-Akalmp (AKA) Mitey Max
-Paintball Kingdom BKO Volumizer

Board: The most popular board used in BKOs is the Vaporworks Chaos board. Some boards are:

-Vaporworks Chaos Board
-Tag Sportz Predator Flashing
-Nox Board

Paint Detection System (PDS): PDS is a great upgrade if you have the money. If you chop paint this is the upgrade to get. A list of places that does PDS is:

-Indian Creek Design
-Vaporworks
-Pbgeek (Darryl Hadfield)

[Madpooh]

2003 and 2004 new style ram



2003 and older BKO LPR

[Madpooh]

Why doesn’t my BKO turn on when I turn the switch both ways?
-The battery is drained and you need a new fresh 9 volt battery.
-The wiring connections could be bad.
-The on/off switch could be damaged.

My led is on but the BKO will not shoot when I pull the trigger.
-The trigger is not activating the microswitch. Use an Allen key and adjust the top screw in that is located on top of the trigger.
-The battery can be low on power. Replace the battery

My BKO is leaking in the trigger frame.
-The solenoid could be overpressured. Lower the LPR.
-The solenoid could be loose. Tighten the solenoid.

My BKO is leaking down the barrel and I can hear it from the feedneck.
-The cup seal could be damaged. Put some grease on the cup seal (white plastic thing on stock valve stem).
-The cup seal could be damaged. Replace the cup seal

Paint is rolling out of my barrel or paint is getting stuck in the barrel.
-You are double feeding. You need to do a detent mod.
-You are missing a detent. Replace the detent with a new detent.

My BKO shoots, but sometimes the bolt gets stuck forward and air gushes out.
-You chopped a paintball. To limit chopping get a faster hopper. Lower the LPR pressure.

My BKO is chopping, how do I stop it?
-To eliminate all chopping, you'll need a PDS system.

My bolt gets stuck half way when I dryfire.
-The ram is dry. Lubing it would fix the problem. Lube the oring on the shaft.

My bolt moves only a little everytime i shoot. The bolt moves slightly forward after each shot.
-The solenoid gasket is in incorrectly. Having the gasket in correctly is disturbing the airflow.

My BKO is inconsistant.
-The regulators are dirty. Lubing them would help the consistancy. The stock HPR is not the greatest.

[Madpooh]

The purpose of the punch pin/pressure pin, is to keep the microswitch in its place. Removing the punch pins may be hard for new BKO or Bushmaster users. If incorrect techniques are used, the punch pin remover and even the microswitch can be damaged while reinstalling the wiring harness.

The tools needed:
-hammer
-roll of tape
-1/16" punch pin remover (the punch pin remover in the pictures is a broken one, the pictures and steps that i will show will teach you how to remove the pins even with a broken punch pin remover. if you use a new one, some steps can be skipped)
-a nail/rod/pin
-your trigger frame with the wiring harness in it

Steps to remove the punch pins:

Step 1

Get tools and equipment ready.



Step 2

Place trigger frame on top of the roll of tape. Make sure the other side of the punch pins/pressure pins face the floor or table or where ever you are working on.



Step 3

Put the punch pin remover on top of the punch pin like so.



Step 4

Now holding the middle part of the punch pin remover (Make sure the punch pin remover is NOT on an angle ) useing your hammer and strike the punch pin remover. If the pin does not move, strike harder. Once you strike the punch pin remover in as much as it can, it will look like this.




If you use a brand new punch pin remover, it will take the whole pin out. **WARNING: You can damage the punch pin remover if the proper technique is not used** If you did not damage your punch pin remover, remove the other pin. Once you remove the other pin, you are done.

Step 5

Now take the punch pin remover out and put a piece of nail/rod/pin in the same hole that the punch pin was in. Using the hammer strike the pin, if it does not move, strike harder. You may need to hold the pin straight so it does not bend when you strike it, so please watch your fingers if you do this.




Now repeat Step 4 and 5 to remove the other pin.

Picture of the wiring harness out of the trigger frame.


Steps to install the punch pin and harness:

Step 1:

Take your microswitch that is on the wiring harness and position it in the trigger frame so that the punch pins can go into the trigger frame.

WARNING: If the holes do not line up correctly in this process you can destroy your microswitch.

My little trick is to put either a nail/rod/pin or even a toothpick in it to keep the microswitch in place. Once you have something to hold the microswitch in place, put the trigger frame on top of the roll of tape.



Step 2:

While the microswitch is held in place by something, get the punch pin and hammer ready. Take one punch pin and strike it into the trigger frame, when it reaches 1/2-3/4 of the way you can stop. Now take the other pin and hammer it into the frame.



Step: 3

Once both pins are 1/2-3/4 of the way in hammer both pins at the same time. Now both pins should be flush with the trigger frame and should look and perform the same way before you took the pins out.

[Madpooh]

The reason why you may need to disassemble a BKO ram (new style ram) is to lube it or either doing a ram bumper mod.

Tools needed to disassemble the BKO ram:
-heat source (you need something hot to heat up the hammer because it is loctited, gas stove top, torch should work)
-pliers, table vice, or strap wrench (you'll need two of any of these items)

A picture of a BKO ram assembled.



A picture of a BKO ram disassembled.



Preplanning

-First off you'll need to get a heating source. What I use is a torch. (It is easier for me and have one in the garage (torch that plumbers use)) If you don't have a torch, you can use a gas stove top, but this takes longer. You'll also need either two pliers or a plier and a table vice. One plier or table vice will be holding the ram shaft in place so it will not spin when you try to take the hammer off. If you use a torch, use a plier or table vice to securecly hold the shaft (protecting the shaft so it does not scratch is optional).

Steps to disassemble a BKO ram

Step 1

-Remove the ram cap that is located on the back.



Step 2

-Use a plier or a table vice to securely hold the ram shaft. You can protect ram shaft by use a leather glove or a piece of rubber (this maybe harder for you to hold the ram tight if you use pliers).



Step 3

-Now heat up the hammer. If you use a torch, it usually takes about 10-15 seconds for the loctite to loosen up. If you use a gas stove, it usually takes about 30-45 seconds to loosen up. Once you heat it up, try to work quickly and remove the hammer. You can use either pliers or a strap wrench to take the hammer off. **Make sure the ram shaft is secure and will not spin when you try to take the hammer off.**



Step 4

-Remove the ram shaft and spring. You've now successfully disassembled the BKO ram.



Reassembling and lubing the BKO ram

Tools needed:
-loctite
-grease

Steps to lube and reassemble the BKO ram

Step 1

-Clean all the dirt and old grease off the ram shaft, spring, and inside of the ram body.

Step 2

-Slightly grease the oring on the ram shaft (you can lube the ram shaft, but it's optional).

Step 3

-Now put the shaft in the spring and the spring and ram shaft back into the ram housing. Once the spring and ram shaft is in the ram housing, put the ram cap back on.

Step 4
-The thread on the ram shaft should now be sticking out. Now put two drops of loctite on the threads and screw the hammer back in. You don't need pliers to screw the hammer back in. Just screw it in so it is hand tight. Allow the loctite to dry/cure a day before using the ram.

Once that is all done, and it looks exactly the same befor eyou took it apart, you've now succesfully disassembled, lubed and reassembled the BKO ram.

[Madpooh]

Sorry for some of the poor pictures.

Tools needed to replace a current LED
-new LED
-heat shrink (cut about 1/2" long)
-solder
-soldering iron
-lighter
-razor blade or exacto knife
-wire cutters or scissor

Steps to replace the old LED

Step 1

-First off, make sure the trigger frame is off the marker. You can leave the wiring harness in the trigger frame. Now get all the tools ready and plug the soldering iron in.



Step 2

-Get the old LED and new LED ready. The green one is the stock LED and the clear one is a new ultra bright LED. On the right side of the LEDs there s two picture of two different leds. To make changing the LED easier, look at the led. There is two metal pins in the inside. One is bigger than the other. When you solder the led to the wire later you'll have to know which wires goes to which prong. If the wires are reversed the LED will not work.

Yellow = Smaller pin in the LED
Blue = Bigger pin in the LED



Step 3

-Get the new LED and trim the prongs I would leave at least 1/4" minimum on each prong.

.

Step 4

-Get the razor blade and slowly and carefully trim the old heat shrink off. BECAREFUL CUTTING THE HEAT SHRINK, YOU DON'T WANT A NASTY CUT!!



Step 5

-Once you trim one side of it, the heat shrink should peel off easily.





Step 6

-By now the soldering iron should be hot. Now get your heat shrink ready. Now take one of the wires to the soldering irong and heat the connection up, the led should pop off easily if it is hot. When the LED comes out, put one heat shrink into the wire. Now take the same wire and LED and heat the connection up. You may need new solder so the LED and wire holds. Make sure you connect the wire to the correct prong.



Step 7

-Once you connect one wire, repeat Step 6 for the other wire.




Step 8

-Once both wires are securely soldered onto the LED you may now move the heat shrink to the connections torwards the LED. Two important things that you should check before you heat the heat shrink.

1) Check the connection, give the connection a slight tug/pull.
2) Double check that you have the heat shrink on each wire.

Now you can heat up the heat shrink. I use a lighter, but if you have a heat gun you can use that too. Warning: If you heat the heat shrink to much you can melt the heat shrink and burn the wire a little bit





And now you are done!

[Madpooh]

Screw Threads

Barrel Threads:
ICD/Bushmaster threads: 7/8” x 20 tpi (4-lead thread)
Autococker threads: 15/16” x 20 tpi

2K4 LPR Threads:
7/8” x 20 tpi (LPR to body)
3/4” x 32 tpi (LPR adjusting knob)

Ram Shaft Threads:
10-32

Feedneck Threads:
13/16” x 32 tpi

Ram screws (2 ea.):
10-32 x 1/2" (Button Head)

ASA Block screw (2 ea.):
10/32 x 3/4" (Socket Head Cap)

Bolt Set Screw Threads:
5/16 -24 x 1/2"

Tray to Body Screws (4 ea.):
6-32 x 7/8" (Socket Head Cap)

Grip Frame to Tray Screws (2 ea.):
8-32 x 3/8" (button head)

Grip Panel to Grip Frame Screws (4 ea.):
6-32 x 1/4" (button head) (stock and most aftermarket frames)
8-32 x 1/4" (button head) (Zenitram 45 and OTB frame)

Trigger Set Screws (3 ea.) :
8-32 x 1/4" (set Screw)

Valve Lock Screw (1 ea.):
3/8-24 x 1/4"

Eye Cover Screw (2 ea.):
6-32 x 5/8” (button head)

New Style Detents w/o PDS (O-ring) Screw (1 ea.):
6-32 x 1/4" (button Head)

On/off switch Screw (On tray, 2 ea.):
3-48 x 3/16”

Micro-Switch Replacement Screw (2 ea.):
2-56 x 3/4"

Bottomline Screw (2 ea.):
10-32 (lengths vary)


O-ring Sizes (Dash No.)

Detent: 010

Ram:
Shaft: 010
Housing: 015

Volumizer: 016

Valve: 016

Asa (2K3 and older): 012 (2)

Asa/LPR:
Piston: 011
Lpr housing: 014

2K3 HPR:
Upper part: 015 and 019
Piston: 011
Lower part: 010

[Madpooh]

Things needed:

-small piece of macroline
-razorblade (sharp one)

Step 1:


Step 2:


Step 3:


Step 4:


If you get hurt its not my fault.