EGO - Common Questions and Issues
Why does my EGO kick and how can I reduce it?
Kick is produced by two parts. One is from the inertia of the ram and bolt moving forward and hitting the valve open. The other is the fact that you are projecting paintball forward at over 275fps. While you can’t do much about the laws of physics, you can lower the LPR pressure some to decrease the force of the ram/ bolt moving forward.
On average, most Egos work well with a dwell between 8-10, with LPR about 2-3 turns in from flush. Lowering your LPR some more may reduce a little more kick but not without the cost of having to up your dwell and/or HPR to make up for it. It may even affect consistency as we’ve seen happen on quite a few Egos running very low LPR. Running a dwell of 9 and LPR 2 turns in should keep most Ego’s running well with minimal kick. You can experiment with one more turn in from there and up the dwell to 10 but check to see if your efficiency is taking a dive or if consistency got any worse over the chrono. Only you can be the judge to see what you favor more.
All guns will have some amount of kick no matter what. So if you find that your Ego kicks too much, what are you comparing it to? It is not going to kick as little as say DM4/5/C because it’s a different design and also remember that the DMs are heavier, which helps keep the kick even less noticeable. Compared to a cocker, the Ego doesn’t seem to kick at all. So it all depends and you should expect some kick out of the Ego. But if you compare the Ego to guns of similar types, (knock open, rammer based, open bolt) it should not kick anymore than Timmies, Bushies, etc.
As of this writing, (July 05) there is no upgrades or options out yet to lower the LPR pressure some more. But expect to see Planet Eclipse release their LPR upgrade in the future designed to allow the LPR to run lower, reducing the kick some.
Why is my EGO inconsistent over the chrono?
If you’ve just purchased your EGO, give it a few cases to break it in. It will start looking better over the chrono after a little use. I see a lot of people post this concern and still find inconsistencies after a few cases. You’ve lubed the ram, checked everything, your settings are good, LPR is less than 3 turns in, so what’s left? What paint are you using? You’d be surprise how much more consistent your Ego (or any well made marker for that matter) will be over the chrono using better paint. White box to mid grade paint is great for practice and rec but if you want super consistency, go with high grade. I’ve seen consistencies as poor as -+30fps which goes away the minute I switched paint and got back to -+3fps. Paint makes a huge difference in accuracy and consistency.
Why is my EGO chopping or breaking paint?
Detents. The most common is double feeding and worn detents are usually the culprit. Make sure your detents are not worn, bent, or ripped. Replace if needed.
Empty/Ball Setting. Even with a Halo B/ Reloader B or any force fed loader, I would recommend putting your Empty at 1ms and Ball at 2ms at the very least. I have my Ball setting at 3ms with no issues of my ROF slowing down. It will take a lot more than a couple milliseconds to see any drop in ROF. In most cases, there is no need to bring Empty above 1ms. Raising ball to 3ms should eliminate all marker related chops.
Loader. If you are using a Halo B/ Reloader B, paint can sometimes get crushed or cracked inside the loader, then fed into the breech and explode once air hits it, making a mess that looks like a bolt chop. If you are experiencing chops and you know that your detents are good and raising your Ball setting is not helping, empty out your loader and look inside. The biggest sign to look for is a small trace of paint around the catch cup or raceway. Also look for small droplets of paint on the fins of the drive cone. If there is, your paint is most likely too brittle. If you have a Reloader B, you can try lowering the speed to 2 or even 1. It will not slow you down that much. Even with the lowest setting, the Reloader B can still put out about 18-19 bps.
Treating Your Paint. This may sound crazy but honest to God, it works! We got this from the GAP website but it works on almost all brands of paint. We do this every time during the winter or when we are stuck with paint too brittle for our loaders. Wet your hands with water or spray a few mists of water into your bag of paint. Use your hands to move it around to make sure all the paintballs get coated evenly. Leave it there overnight. If you need to use it ASAP, treat it with water, close up the bag, and put it in the sun for 10-15min, depending on how hot it is. This works on fresh or old paint and not only limited to GAP paint. Do not over do it or you will be shooting sticky prunes.
The water softens the shell just a little. You’ll get used it and start to notice that different paint reacts to water differently. Some will get soft real fast, so less water. Some will need a bit more water.
Barrel Breaks. If the face of your bolt and breech area is clean, or there is no paint leaking out of your eye covers, but a mess inside the barrel, then most likely it’s a barrel break. Too big of a paintball going into too small of a bore will break. Match it up with a kit or just use a big bore like .693.
Then should I get a DART bolt?
If you got the extra cash, why not? Its not a mandatory upgrade but they do work pretty good on extremely brittle paint and makes the air hitting the ball much more gentle. I also noticed that the trajectory of the ball comes out just a tad flatter. Not a whole lot flatter but enough to notice. If you play a lot of tourneys, then investing in one would be a good choice since you never what type or batch of paint you’d be stuck with.
What type of lube should I use?
I personally use DOW 33 on the regs and Hoppes gun oil on the ram. Works fine for me but you can use whatever you like. The EGO is not that picky with the type of lube as long as you are not using anything out of the ordinary. Slick Honey, Love Juice, Dow 33, Gold Cup, PMI gun oil…etc are all good choices.
How do I get rid of trigger bounce?
The first thing I would check is the trigger setup itself. If the magnet strength is too light, or too little travel before the shot, then upping the filters to eliminate bounce could actually hurt your ROF and can possibly skip shots. Have at least 1mm before and after the break on your setup.
Secondly, how are you checking for bounce? Are you being too strict on yourself? I see a lot of people check for bounce by pulling the trigger real slow and then hold/ hover it right around the break point. That’s being a little too strict on yourself and that is not how bounce is checked by most refs nowadays. What they are looking for is illegal bounce or runaway triggers where it will continue to fire even after your fingers stop, or if your marker is adding shots from just regular firing.
A good way to check for bounce is just walk the trigger as fast as you normally would and then stop. The marker should stop firing right away. Give the trigger a couple quick pulls to make sure its not bursting. Then fire your marker with one finger as fast as you can and listen for added shots or bursts. ( I learned that from Will at Tadao and I found it a very effective way to test for bounce)
Start your filter settings at Tol 10%, Band 75%, Pull 1ms, Rel 2 and go from there. It’s hard for me to give out settings without actually shooting your Ego and seeing how your trigger setup is. Just toggle around with it and you’ll learn how the filters react with your particular setup. Not everyone’s trigger setups are identical so why should the filter settings be? Start by using your Tol and Band filters. Then use the Pull and Rel to fine tune.
Why is my EGO so loud?
Depends on what you are comparing it too. It’s no Freestyle, DMs, quiet. But not loud like Sypders. I find them at the same sound level of Timmies and most Angels. EGOs do have that “poppy” sound signature but it’s normal and it’s just a characteristic of it. But if it’s noticeably louder than another EGO, check to see what your settings are at and compare it. Are you running your HPR too high from running a too low of a dwell and LPR?
I am having trouble removing the macro line from the stock macro fittings.
You’re not the only one but here’s a simple way to remove it without using any tools and it works for us every time. Use a rag and place just one layer over the macro fitting. Pinch the ring down firmly with your fingers. You’ll find that the rag takes out a lot of pain on your finger tips and that you can apply a lot more strength to it without busting your fingers. Use the other end of the rag to grip on to the macro line and pull apart. Leave some slack with the rag of course so you’re not actually pulling on the rag. That blue arrow just takes the place of my right hand since it was holding the camera.