Rear-cocking NBOLT and the E-2

abracadabra1 · 02-19-2002, 12:52 PM

I received my rear cocking nbolt today. It came damaged in the package- grrr. But my question is this:

I looked at the bolt and it was the metal extension that makes it "rear-cocking". However, if I install this bolt my marker will have external moving parts and a pretty large uncovered portion behind the bolt that allows dirt and other debris to enter the marker. Should I have purchased the side cocking bolt instead? Is there a way to remove the long metallic portion of the nbolt and attach the sliding rear cocking device (that comes stock with the E-2)?

Thx

abracadabra1 · 02-19-2002, 12:57 PM

Also, how would I modify the side-cocking bolt if I were to purchase it.

Thanks

cohiba · 02-19-2002, 02:54 PM

abra,

It was damaged? That sucks!

Yes, you will have something sticking out the back, but if you look at my BDs, you will notice that they both have that. And yes, when the bolts are cocked, they do stick out a couple inches. But it really is not a big deal. I'll try to explain why:

A cocker, for example, is a closed-bolt design, which means every time it fires, the bolt shoots out, then in. This can be very dangerous if your face is close to the marker as something shoots backwards everytime the marker is fired. However, on an open-bolt design like the E-2, the bolt stays cocked, and when fired, shoots in, then back out. At no point does it shoot further back than when it started. So no matter how close you are to the bolt handle, you can fire without worrying about getting hit.

Heck, I don't think I'm explaining it vey well, but I can say that I have not have a problem with the bolt handle "sticking out".

As it turns out, I have decided to order an N-Bolt today as well. However, just as you mentioned, I am going to oder the side-cocking bolt, and drill/tap it to accept the "snap-back" rear portion from the BD.

I actually asked SwanCreek how to do it, and they said that the bolt would have to be drilled to 8/32", but that isn't necessarily true. It needs to be drilled for whatever you are going to put into it. Regardless, the answer to your question better be yes, cause that's what I'm going to do!

abracadabra1 · 02-19-2002, 03:13 PM

I haven't received a reply back from swancreek yet, but I'll see if they'll change my order from a rear cocking to a side cocking bolt instead (heck, it's about $20 cheaper too). If not, once I receive a new rear cocking I'll see if anyone is willing to trade it for a side-cocking bolt.

Thx for the advice again cohiba

abracadabra1 · 02-22-2002, 06:45 PM

It's been 3 days since I sent my first message to Melissa San Juan over at Swancreekpaintball, I have yet to receive a reply from her. I have also messaged Sales@Swancreekpaintball to no avail as well.

I really don't like the looks of this. I'll be sure to post negative feedback about Swancreek once adequate time has elapsed. Hopefully, I'll get a reply from them and not have to go through the hassle of such an ordeal.

*sigh*

cohiba · 02-22-2002, 06:54 PM

Well, Fred San Juan at SwanCreek paintball replied to several of my emails over last weekend. But he has not responded to the one I sent, ohhhhh, about 3 days ago...

But I know that something is happening, cause just today I got notification from PayPal that the payment for my N-Bolt had been processed.

Unless I guess incorrectly, SwanCreek is a fairly small operation, so I wouldn't begrudge them just a little delay in answering email. But I know that if I don't see a shipping email or something in the next day or two, I will be sending a followup email myself.

abracadabra1 · 02-24-2002, 06:55 PM

Just a follow-up post. I received an e-mail from Maria San Juan apologizes for the damaged goods. She also gave me an rma number and a shipping address.

Glad to hear back from them.

abracadabra1 · 02-24-2002, 07:16 PM

I will be receiving a new rear cocking Nbolt soon. Is there any way to remove the metallic portion attached to the rear cocking version of the bolt so that I can attach the 'ingenious' blowback dragun cocking device?

Thx

abracadabra1 · 02-27-2002, 04:34 PM

The rearcocking Nbolt is a fantastic bolt. It is extremely high flowing as well as very light! The hole in the bolt is milled fantastically. Its design helps the maximum amount of air flow forward through the marker's body to paintball. The countour of the hole practically eliminates the amount of air shooting out through the vertical feed of the dragun. Paintballs no longer shoot up the vertical feed because of the air pushing upwards. The nbolt is a terrific product!

Does anyone have any idea how I can remove the 'snapback' portion of the stock dragun bolt? Do I just unscrew it? Or is it attached with loctite as well? If so, will heating it with a blowdryer do the trick?

Any advice is appreciated.

devildog4 · 02-27-2002, 05:29 PM

abra.........let us know how your new bolt performs when you get a chance. Also how much do they sell for?

abracadabra1 · 02-27-2002, 07:01 PM

59.99 for the rear cocking variant
34.99 for the side cocking variant

your best bet is to go w/ the side cocking because you don't need the rear cocking rod if you plan on keeping the 'snap-back' cocking rod that comes stock on the BDs

timie720 · 02-28-2002, 10:56 AM

abracadabra1:
have you been able to remove the back part of the n-bolt?
well just try and see if you can get the cocking system off your stock bolt by unscrewing or heating (if it dont work try cooling - depends on lock-tite type).
now the threads may not match. If the threads on the n-bolt are 10-32 (which i highly doubt) and te threads on your stock bolt are 8-32 then youve got a prob and youlll have to keep the nbolt the way it is or buy a 'cocker cocking rid which has 10-32 threads.

now lets say the nbolt has 8-32 tap and your stock bolt has 10-32. youlll have to drill the nbolt to 5/32ths and tap for 10-32.

it all depends.

if you cant understand (i wrote it and it is hard 4 me to

) just email me timie720@yahoo.com

heres my side cocking n-botl tapped for 10-32 with a cocker cocking rod.

cohiba · 02-28-2002, 05:30 PM

Is the cocking handle an integral part of the bolt or is it screwed in? If the former, your only option is going to be to cut off the handle near it's base, then tap the remainder for the screw on the snap-back portion of the stock bolt.

timie720, Thanks for the pic. I think your bolt looks awesome.

abracadabra1 · 03-01-2002, 05:44 PM

timie:

I haven't been able to remove the back part of my nbolt. I heated it with a blow dryer for about 10 minutes until the bolt was considerably hot (~150-200F) and tried unscrewing the back of the bolt and the darn thing just wouldn't budge.

Any ideas/advice?

Thx