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Old 03-18-2014, 03:15 PM #1030
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Ok thanks. I thought the eigen worked best with stock an and guide?
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:32 PM #1031
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It works best with as much volume as you can spare and a stock length guide. With most bodies, this means an SFT can and a stock guide (most of which are HE guides). If you don't mind spending more, you can get a closed body, a ULP can and a volumizing guide (be it NDZ or modded stock), your eigenbolt will probably work better then.

The additional volume makes the pressure in the valve chamber bleed out more slowly, keeping it as high as possible to help the bolt reset faster for better efficiency, so you get the best of both worlds, smoother lower pressure operation and better efficiency at the same time.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:39 PM #1032
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I have an he can, and he guide. I also recently put the ipr mod in. I will try seeing if I can lower my dwell and make a softer shot and maintain some consistency. Idk how much lower I can go with a humphrey noid though
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:48 PM #1033
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With your orings properly fitted you should br fine at 10 ms.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:16 PM #1034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nateg09 View Post
I have an he can, and he guide. I also recently put the ipr mod in. I will try seeing if I can lower my dwell and make a softer shot and maintain some consistency. Idk how much lower I can go with a humphrey noid though
The ipr won't help with dwell but you may see a slight gain in fps. Another way to drop your dwell is to vent the solenoid... Good luck finding someone to do it tho
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:32 AM #1035
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Another way to drop your dwell is to vent the solenoid... Good luck finding someone to do it tho
If you're feeling lucky...
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:31 PM #1036
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Unless your name is strangeballa I wouldn't try that
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:56 PM #1037
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:21 PM #1038
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:54 AM #1039
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You're really going to make me go find my camera, disassemble my shocker, take a pic of the noid and upload it?

Seriously though. The trick is to place some sticky tape inside the noid to catch the debris and still clean the **** out of the thing when you're done. I actually use the cutting wheel rather than a drill. Isn't there a thread on it in here somewhere?

Edit: I see it's back on the front page....
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Old 03-20-2014, 01:26 PM #1040
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Quote:
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You're really going to make me go find my camera, disassemble my shocker, take a pic of the noid and upload it?

Seriously though. The trick is to place some sticky tape inside the noid to catch the debris and still clean the **** out of the thing when you're done. I actually use the cutting wheel rather than a drill. Isn't there a thread on it in here somewhere?

Edit: I see it's back on the front page....
If you're going to bust out the camera we want to see all your eigen bolts....PLEASE
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:03 PM #1041
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Does anyone else's bolt grind as it reaches the back 1/16 inch of its cycle?

If I take the assembly out of my gun, lay it vertically with the back cap against the table, and push down on the bolt you can feel it grind as it reaches the bottom. I'm wondering if this is causing or adding to my FSDO.

It seems that the rear of the bolt is grinding against the rear coils of the spring as it coils up. There is a recess for this on the rear inner bore of the bolt, I'm tempted to file/sand this recess larger until there is no more grinding. Good idea?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:11 PM #1042
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is the spring in backwards?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:32 PM #1043
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I tried flipping it around, it grinds either way. The wider end goes on the rear of the guide, right?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:56 PM #1044
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Is your guide modded for the spring? I had to sand the base of my guide down to prevent binding.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:06 PM #1045
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Quote:
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Is your guide modded for the spring? I had to sand the base of my guide down to prevent binding.
This.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:25 PM #1046
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Sanding the base of the guide rather then the anno'd bolt, good idea, thanks, I'll do that.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:48 PM #1047
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So I filed/sanded the guide and it has improved (it cycles smoother) but the problem is still there. If I take it down any further I will lose that lip on the guide that holds the bumper and spring in place. Is the lip necessary? If the lip is necessary then my only resort will be to file the rear inner bore of the bolt at this point.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:04 PM #1048
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Its not necesary.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:07 PM #1049
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What guide is it? Put the spring in the bolt and put it on a flat surface and push down... Then you will know if its the cb in the bolt
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:41 AM #1050
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I sanded my bolt guide down quite a bit, it's not much of a problem. I'd also sand up the shaft a little bit, not just the very base of it.

The method I used was with 700 grit sand paper (later moving to 1500 and then polish), I put the bolt guide on a allen type drill bit driver thingum that happened to match the hole, and spun the guide on a drill while I held the paper in place. Made for even sanding.

Just be careful cuz that **** get HOT!
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