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12-02-2009, 10:39 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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2k2 Imp noid help
My old classic, after sitting for a few years, has developed a leaky solenoid. Its not blown. Tried cleaning and lubing the poppet and piston, but no luck.
Can someone point me in the direction on where to pick one up? SP wants me to send it in, but im not in for that kind of investment or hassle. Ive seen somewhere before where you could buy them direct? Anyone have one they are willing to part with?
This thing shoots better than anything else Ive ever owned, want to get it shooting again for a good spare. Thanks
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12-02-2009, 10:40 PM
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#2
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t(-_-t)
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You tried lubing the gasket, right?
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12-02-2009, 10:54 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Grimes, IA
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Try lubing the gasket first. You may need to replace the o-rings as well if it's been sitting that long. If you're unable to repair it, you can usually pick one up in the parts trading thread or you can get the noid from Airsoldier.
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2ndCoat Paintball
May the road rise up to meet you, and the wind be at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face, and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And may you someday die of natural causes rather than an auto-erotic asphyxiation accident, staged by a secret society of ninja assassins.
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12-03-2009, 08:01 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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Yea, I did lube the gasket between the noid and body. I might order a new one.
After messing w/ it lastnight, it very well might be the gasket. Gun cycles all the way up to about 100psi before it just starts spewing air out. Its a little hard to distinguish w/ all the air coming out, but it does seem to be coming out between the valve and noid, and as you back off the pressure, it doesn't reseat.
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12-03-2009, 01:44 PM
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#5
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Impulse-Owners.com
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Boston
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try gassing up the marker while the trigger frame is off. That way you can see/hear exactly where the leak is coming from.
Also- push down on the soleoind when it leaks to see if it stops.
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12-03-2009, 08:54 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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I did all my trouble shooting w/ the frame off. Pushing down on it doesnt have any bearing on it. Looking at the gasket, it seems fine. There doesnt seem to be any air coming from the actual noid. When you gas it up at first, it leaks slowly from the front, and then as you hit full pressure it seems to blow out and spew from the front and back on the underside.
So I fully understand, there aren't and seals in the ram assm. that could go bad and leak from the underside of the valve body around the front of the noid is there? Thanks
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12-03-2009, 11:28 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Grimes, IA
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It's entirely possible for a bad o-ring on the ram assembly to cause a leak through the solenoid, yes. Have you inspected the ram assembly at all?
__________________
2ndCoat Paintball
May the road rise up to meet you, and the wind be at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face, and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And may you someday die of natural causes rather than an auto-erotic asphyxiation accident, staged by a secret society of ninja assassins.
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12-04-2009, 10:35 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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I have looked at the outter orings on the ram, but not the internals. The outters looked fine, but I didn't look at them too closely b/c I didn't think to them as a poissible cause, will look at them closer and replace them if needed.
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12-04-2009, 11:55 AM
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#9
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Now with 20% more AWESOME
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Grimes, IA
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If the outer o-rings are in good shape, apply a bit of Dow-55 to them, see if that helps as well. Aside from replacing all the seals and rebuilding the noid, I'm not entirely sure what else to suggest without looking at it.
__________________
2ndCoat Paintball
May the road rise up to meet you, and the wind be at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face, and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And may you someday die of natural causes rather than an auto-erotic asphyxiation accident, staged by a secret society of ninja assassins.
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12-07-2009, 04:11 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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I dont have spare o-rings. Took the 3 outters and swapped them to different positions and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the help.
Is there anywhere to get a complete o-ring kit still, or has anyone broke down the individual sizes?
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12-07-2009, 04:46 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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Thanks for the o-ring sizes.
Ok, I have the dwell set 20 beeps from bottom. When I gas it up fully, the bolt shoots forwards and locks w/o cycling the gun. Im just going to replace all the orings, there has to be air getting by internally somewhere
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12-07-2009, 06:16 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: South Jersey
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The cap on the solenoid is upside-down. The line on the cap goes in towards the body.
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12-07-2009, 09:58 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Puyallup, WA
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__________________
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My Impulse
top impulse: blackheart board, ndz rip valve, ndz slick shot, ndz equalizer bolt, ndz lpr combo, ndz detents, cp roller trigger
bottom impulse: cricket vision board, ndz rip valve, shocktech supafly bolt, ndz detents, ndz pro-mag trigger
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01-07-2010, 08:12 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow_Target
The cap on the solenoid is upside-down. The line on the cap goes in towards the body.
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I did find that I had the end cap upside down.
So... I ordered some o-rings and rebuilt the gun. Still doing the same thing, so I am sure that it is the noid. Still cycles smooth and normal around 100psi, when I get it to 150-160psi is when it starts to leak and when you cycle it the bolt locks forward.
Anyone know where to get one? Anyone have a spare they would part w/?
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01-07-2010, 08:26 PM
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#16
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A Bit Impulsive...
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your best bet would be the parts trading thread. I picked one up a few weeks ago for $25 shipped. It may take a day or so, but someone here has one.
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01-11-2010, 04:38 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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ok, I am still at a loss. I received a solenoid from someone here on the forums today and it still does the same thing. Cycles fine untill you turn it up to full operating pressure, which I run mine around 150-160 psi. The bolt just locks forwards.
So I rebuilt the hammer assm, replaced the outter o-ring on the valve and have tried a different solenoid. I dont know what else to do with it.
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01-11-2010, 05:13 PM
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#18
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one case one kill
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: the sticks, michigan
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You are dry firing without a tapeworm (solenoid optimizer) or an LPR. That is why the bolt is sticking foward. You cannot dryfire without 1 of those unless you stick a squeegee in the feedneck or something.
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01-11-2010, 10:00 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msonic
You are dry firing without a tapeworm (solenoid optimizer) or an LPR. That is why the bolt is sticking foward. You cannot dryfire without 1 of those unless you stick a squeegee in the feedneck or something.
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I bought this gun from day one. I know it inside and out. I have a solenoid optimizer. Was looking to others for other options because I'm out of ideas, not because I cant dryfire it. The bolt locks forwards no matter the circumstance.
Last edited by carolinaragetc : 01-11-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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01-12-2010, 08:55 AM
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#20
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you could buy a new impulse solenoid so you know for sure it's not the noid. I'm pretty sure air solder products has them.
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01-12-2010, 12:31 PM
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#21
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DatsunAholic
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Arlington, Texas
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At first I was thinking that maybe there was too much Dow in the ram, causing it to get stuck forward by suction, but increasing the noid pressure should lessen that effect.
Are you sure there isn't anything getting pinched or holding the bolt/ram forward? I believe that if a detent was too long, it could wedge the bolt in the forward position.
As always, make sure you have a fresh battery. Sometimes even a fully charged rechargeable battery wont have enough juice.
You do have a spring on the front of the valve, correct?
Make sure the ram assembly is clean, any dirt or dow plugging the holes on the outside can cause problems.
That's all I can think of at the moment.
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