Promaster Pump....

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 03:41 PM

Alright. I have my Promaster but I want to get into pump. I'm broke so I was going to do a quick home mod. I'm going to take my old metal bolt pin, cut it in half so it doesn't connect to the ram. Then I'm going to make a pump handle and connect it to the bolt pin. My questions are, how can I make it a true pump or can I not do that. And 2nd, is how should I make the pump handle and out of what material. Thanks for the help.

M14 Maniac · 07-28-2007, 03:58 PM

instead of cutting the bolt pin, why not just pull it up? saves you cutting time and you can still use it if needed.

Hisse · 07-28-2007, 03:58 PM

I'm not sure about the gun but I do know that because of the nature of most electro's like that it takes a lot of modification to make it no longer operate like a semi.

However it can be a pump in the sense of an mq valved electro sniper, you still have to pump it to load a ball, so in that sense it would be a pump. I'm not sure exactly how a promaster works so i can't tell you much more.

One thing however is due to the way they are made you would most likely need the pump handle to be around the barrel instead of undecocking due to installing a quide rod.

For the pump handle you could really use anything but the most simple would be something like wood that can be easily worked, unless ofcours you have a metal lathe in which case feel free to make a metal/plastic handle. Then you would need the pump rods and a way of installing them on the bolt, your best bet is probably to take the bolt pin out all together.

EvilAuthorityX · 07-28-2007, 04:13 PM

just trade it for a trilogy body and get the trilogy pump kit...better than having a horrible hack job..ive seen a b2k pump ...it sucked. but works

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 04:22 PM

I want to make this so I can still use it like normal. The reason why I would cut it is because I have another aftermarket bolt pin I use for semi. I just dont know how to make a pump handle. I would use would but I dont know how to drill out a hole that big for the barrel to go in.

Hisse · 07-28-2007, 05:56 PM

Well for drilling a hole there's 2 options, the first is to find someone with a wood lather that can handle a 1" drill bit(shouldn't be hard i'd suppose). Or the seccond option is use a vise and a drill or a drill press.

The easiest due to the fact thta it just needs common tools would be a vise and a drill. For the drill your best bet would be to use either a spade bit or a forsener/saw tooth bit.

You would also need to drill and probably tap 2 holes for the pump rods, then you'd obviously need the rods either pre-threaded or unthreaded and a die set. And then you'd have to find a way of attaching the pump rods to the bolt.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 06:30 PM

I have an idea. I don't want to drill into the bolt because its my only bolt. I have a screw on the back of my bolt to tighten how hard it grips the bolt pin. Could I take that off, and put a thin piece of metal in there and put the screw back in and connect the pump arms to the piece of metal? I might try that.

u238 · 07-28-2007, 07:11 PM

A Promaster is a FASOR gun, and therefore could not be converted to a true pump gun without completely changing what it is. The Promaster uses a solenoid to direct air behind the ram (think of a striker in a blowback gun). On the other side of the ram is a spring. The pneumatic solenoid directs air to the rear of the ram, forcing it into at valve and releasing air to the bolt. When there is no longer air pressure being supplied to the rear of the ram, it naturally returns to its rearward position by spring pressure, and is ready fire again. You could think of it like a Spyder marker, but with the job of the spring and air reversed. If you were to disconnect the bolt of the gun from the ram, you would be able to have a pump gun, but it would only reciprocate the bolt. The ram system would have to be left intact.

abr5 · 07-28-2007, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by u238

A Promaster is a FASOR gun, and therefore could not be converted to a true pump gun without completely changing what it is. The Promaster uses a solenoid to direct air behind the ram (think of a striker in a blowback gun). On the other side of the ram is a spring. The pneumatic solenoid directs air to the rear of the ram, forcing it into at valve and releasing air to the bolt. When there is no longer air pressure being supplied to the rear of the ram, it naturally returns to its rearward position by spring pressure, and is ready fire again. You could think of it like a Spyder marker, but with the job of the spring and air reversed. If you were to disconnect the bolt of the gun from the ram, you would be able to have a pump gun, but it would only reciprocate the bolt. The ram system would have to be left intact.

A promaster is no fasor. Good try though.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 07:20 PM

lol. Thanks for the attempted help. I think I got it figured out. I just have to wait till I lget my gun body back. Im also going to make grips for it. Plexi glass or wood?

outkast kid · 07-28-2007, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abr5

A promaster is no fasor. Good try though.

Yup, it has a spring in the ram to assist with fsdo, but that spring can be removed, the ram is 2-way. And doesn't FASOR mean something like forward air spring operated return? The promaster spring helps force the ram forward, not pull it back.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 07:23 PM

Yea I know what a FASOR is my bro has one. Its spring returned, the Promaster is opposite. It uses air to push it into cocked position.

abr5 · 07-28-2007, 07:37 PM

So now to be helpful.

Doing what you said will work, but there is a catch. You will be able to shoot whenever you please. Halfway through the pump you can pull teh trigger and shoot.

One way to remedy this is to find a board that monitors the bolt. If it monitors the bolt it will be see the space from when the ball drops in and it will let you shoot. It wont do this again until it sees that space. The problem is that since you are making it closed bolt it may read the space from when you pull the bolt back, then let you shoot, so the problem really wasn't solved at all. If WAS's eye mode that monitors the bolt wasn't complete crap I would test it for you.

If you are good with electronics you may be able to rig something up, but it would be way beyond my knowledge of that area.

u238 · 07-28-2007, 07:54 PM

FASOR stands for Forward Air Spring Operated Return. I was under the impression that the Promaster operated like this: A pneumatic solenoid directs air behind the ram, forcing it and the bolt forward (Forward Air). After the ram has struck the valve and sent air to the bolt, the air behind the ram would exhaust, and a spring would return the bolt to the rearward position (Spring Operated Return). According to what you're saying, the spring drives the ram into the valve and air returns it? This doesn't seem to be logical, as a blowback marker accomplishes this already.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 07:55 PM

I'll just be careful not to shoot till after I pump it. Im making this so I can play in local pump tourneys.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 07:57 PM

No. There is a spring that helps push the ram forward, not back into cocked position.

u238 · 07-28-2007, 08:05 PM

Alright. What holds the bolt and ram assembly in the rearward position when the gun is at rest? Does the spring act alone to drive the assembly forward, or does air pressure assist it? And finally, how is the assembly return to its resting position?

Hisse · 07-28-2007, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abr5

So now to be helpful.

Doing what you said will work, but there is a catch. You will be able to shoot whenever you please. Halfway through the pump you can pull teh trigger and shoot.

One way to remedy this is to find a board that monitors the bolt. If it monitors the bolt it will be see the space from when the ball drops in and it will let you shoot. It wont do this again until it sees that space. The problem is that since you are making it closed bolt it may read the space from when you pull the bolt back, then let you shoot, so the problem really wasn't solved at all. If WAS's eye mode that monitors the bolt wasn't complete crap I would test it for you.

If you are good with electronics you may be able to rig something up, but it would be way beyond my knowledge of that area.

I know he won't be up for it because as he said he wants to keep his gun working normal aswell, but in general couldn't you remedy this by moving the eyes forward so that the gun would only fire when the bolt was closed and a ball loaded?

As for the idea of unscrewing the set screw/ball bearing in the back and putting a metal plate there, yes that could be done. What you'd probably have to do to make it easiest to change would be find out the threads of that screw and either get some threaded rod/a long set screw with those thread and tap the metal plate so it screws onto the set screw.

I have an idea that would actually allow for a 3 screw changeover between the pump kit and stock

outkast kid · 07-28-2007, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by u238

Alright. What holds the bolt and ram assembly in the rearward position when the gun is at rest? Does the spring act alone to drive the assembly forward, or does air pressure assist it? And finally, how is the assembly return to its resting position?

Repost these questions in the icd section, quit spamming this guy's thread.

Codymm1014 · 07-28-2007, 08:50 PM

Thanks guys. The only thing Im thinking about is getting rollouts. I know I can fix this by getting a barrel kit but I dont have that much$$. Is there any other way to keep from getting rollouts?

Hisse · 07-28-2007, 08:54 PM

electrical tape or nail polish is said to work, electrical tape is probably the best bet since it's removeable