[WildWayz]

Hi guys

After I had some issues with my Demon, I thought I would create a guide with the aim to show people how to fix common problems.

Make sure you clean off all old lube first with a microfibre cloth so you do not scratch any part of the drive train.

The Drive Train

The Drive Train is the entire bolt system. It is what controls the air flow used to propel the paintball.



The Bolt Guide



You need to lube the following o-rings:
806 (drive o-ring - or bolt seal o-ring) - If you have a leak in the grip frame, check this for nicks/damage and replace.
011 (bolt tip o-ring) - If you have a leak down the barrel, check this o-ring for nicks/damage and replace. Also, if you have a slow bolt cycle or chopping paint, change it too.

You do not need to lube the following o-rings:
017 (bumper seal o-ring)
021 (back cap oring) - If you remove the back cap, there is a 021 o-ring in here. Only replace if you get a leak out of the back cap / back of guide.

The Bolt



Pop the 014 o-ring off the tip with your finger as it makes it easier to slip the bolt through the bolt can. There aren't any o-rings in this section that need changing other than the 014 o-ring as it is the main o-ring to get worn. If it you notice worn detents, replace this o-ring. You need to ensure the tip and 014 o-ring is free of lube.

As for lubing, apply a good amount of lube to the flat areas of the bolt, as these will be the areas of movement and will need a good coating applied. Don't go overboard - just enough to show the colour of the lube.

The Bolt Can

Inside of Bolt Can


If you look inside the bottom of the bolt can, you will see a 019 o-ring positioned around half way up the inside of the bolt can. This is the bolt sail o-ring and if there is a problem with it, it will cause First Shot Drop Off (FSDO) or fail to cycle the bolt properly. You will need to lube this o-ring by placing some lube on your finger, and pushing your finger up inside the bolt can and apply it to 019 o-ring.



If you look inside the top end of the bolt can, you will see a few more o-rings. Some are Ni (Buna) o-rings and some are Polyurethane. The 017 o-ring marked A) is a Buna o-ring and is the Bolt Drive o-ring. It is the main force o-ring and will takes around 20-35 cases to see wear on it.

Next up are the two 017 Polyurethane o-rings marked B). The one next to the Bolt Drive o-ring is called the Fill Shut Off o-ring and is used to shut off the fill after the bolt has cycled.
The other 017 o-ring on the inside of the tip of the bolt can is the Bolt Guide o-ring and if you have a leak down the barrel, check this.
All three o-rings need to be lubed.

Outside of Bolt Can


There are four 021 o-rings here; three are bunched together and one near the front of the bolt can. If you have a leak down the barrel, check the front 021 o-ring for damage. If the mid 021 o-ring is damaged, it cause bolt stick as leaking air can get trapped on the inside of the can by creating a pocket of air.
Just lightly lube all 4 o-rings with any left over lube on your fingers.

When you re-assemble the drive train, make sure there is no lube on the 014 o-ring that you took off the bolt and put it back on.


Thanks to ShootnPoo for the video guide:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3p9nYmCDM4

[WildWayz]

The HPR

The HPR is what is used to control the amount of air which gets passed to the drive train. The main pressure is held here, and it is where the velocity is adjusted for the Demon.

Remember to ensure the marker is de-pressurised before you remove the HPR!

Once you unscrew the HPR outer casing, you are left with this:



Do not worry if the bottom works comes off inside the HPR outer casing - just use an alan key in the velocity adjustment hole to push it out. Be careful not to lose the piston spring though! Remove the piston from the HPR casing.

If you have air leaking from the top of the grip frame, then proceed to remove the HPR from the body of the Demon by gently unscrewing it until the 017 (C on the diagram below) is visible, then you should be able to pull it out.



The air leak will most likely be coming from the 611 o-ring, so go ahead and check it for damage. If you do not have any 611 o-rings, then a 012 will work. This will be the low pressure part of the regulator.
The 017 o-ring is used to seal off the high pressure part of the regulator, so check it for damage and replace if needed.
The 018 is used to seal off the HPR to the body so it creates a tight seal.

Make sure you lube all three o-rings after cleaning off any old lube.

When you re-attach the HPR to the body, push it in so the 017 o-ring disappears into the body, then turn the thread counter clockwise to get the thread aligned correctly, then screw it in clockwise. This stops you from cross threading the threads.

Apply a small amount of lube to the inside of the HPR core (before you push the piston back in).



Apply lube to the 015 o-ring of the piston and the 007 o-ring. Try not to get any lube on the black plastic plug.
Push the piston back unto the HPR casing, 015 o-ring end first. Then mount the spring on so the piston goes through it's center as shown.



Lube both the 015 o-ring (Some people use a 014 instead, but the manual says 015) and the 017 o-ring and push it back into the HPR casing so the piston and spring go inside it.



If you are experiencing an air leak out of the velocity adjuster, you need to remove it from the bottom works and replace the two 007 o-rings as they could be damaged.
Make sure you lube both o-rings.



Screw the velocity adjuster back in and screw it down until it is around 2 threads out. This should set the marker to about 120psi which is 280-290fps.

Now place the HPR outer casing back onto the HRP system and wiggle it so that the inside aligns with the grove on the bottom works as there is a protruding bit of metal on the inside of the outer casing that is used to align it correctly. Once you get it, you will see the threads align and you can then screw it down.


Again, thanks to ShootnPoo for the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zlzPhlx8gQ

[WildWayz]

The Manifold

If your marker is 'puffing' then the chances are the diaphragm has become damaged. It is one of the most common issues seen with the Demon and getting to it is a pain as you have to take apart the entire marker.

Watch these videos to show you how to take apart the marker:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJkeowPFsK0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzbLvwX5sYg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnB5iqEwbDc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M42Aj0ewC0Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEhqQEL51Hs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLViK-2eKgs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utmTfOs7wNo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrU9axODyV4

To Remove the Manifold:



Remove the three screws and gently pull the manifold away from the body. Careful not to lose any of the small o-rings.

The Manifold, QEV and Diaphragm:



You will need to remove the two screws holding the solenoid to the manifold - use a flat headed screwdriver (electrical one works best).



Next up is to remove the QEV. Using an o-ring pick or some thin nosed tweezers, gently insert it into the tiny hole just above the QEV and slide out the QEV.



You will see the QEV comes out easily, but not all the way so using your fingernails, gently pull out the QEV.



The QEV looks like this:


The Demon's Demon - The Diaphragm.

Now, these little bad boys are what cause us Demon Lovers a lot of heart ache. The diaphragms are the most annoying part of this marker as when they go wrong, it involves stripping the marker down to replace them.



If you look inside the QEV chamber, you will see a rubber cone (hopefully) pointing out at you.

These can become shredded or dislodged. Remove the diaphragm using some tweezers and check it for any damage. You will know if your diaphragm has a problem as the marker will 'puff' when shooting, and won't shoot any balls.

And the diaphragm looks like this:



From reading various threads, it isn't often that reseating the diaphragm fixes the issue - so I would replace it whenever you have an issue with the marker 'puffing'. If you reseat it, re-assemble the marker and it still has the issue, you are going to have to take it all apart again.

Note: when putting the diaphragm back into the QEV housing, make sure the convex part is pointing outwards and the concave part sits on the air transfer tube inside the manifold. Gently push the QEV back into the manifold; make sure you don't move the diaphragm!

Re-Assembling the Grip Frame

The eye wire and the solenoid wire, I tend to push down the top side of the manifold - the opposite side from the air transfer tube. I then push the wire connectors through the grip frame and pull them gently so there isn't much slack along the manifold.



I then screw the rear frame screw into the body a few turns and if you look inside the grip frame, you will see where the screw slides into.



You can then lower the front part of the grip frame and you will see the two parts fit snugly together - but until you screw in the rear frame screw in, there will be a gap at the rear between the body and the grip frame. Tighten them both up and then reconnect the eye, solenoid and battery connectors to the board and secure the board to the grip frame.

You should now be good to use your gunslinger!

[overweightangel275]

Lets get this stickied!

[Reaper (ACI)]

Nicely Done

[jason_vanguard]

Great work James!
I see from the pic you got your Dow

[WildWayz]

Originally Posted by jason_vanguard

Great work James!
I see from the pic you got your Dow

heehee yeah it came yesterday - pretty fast delivery and I can't believe 100ml for £6.49!

James

[WildWayz]

Is there anything else you guys want to see a guide on?

[ElCoronel]

You might want to show a pic of the manifold with the QEV in it and the best way to get it out. I was stumped for a bit the other night until I noticed a hole drilled from the other side that let me insert a small allen key and pop the diaphragm out for replacement. Also, some people might get confused with convex and concave so maybe add a pic showing the positioning of the diaphragm as you're about to re-insert it.

Any tips for not ruining your wiring harnesses during this process would help as well. (Something I did the first time.)

Replacing the diaphragm is a fairly common chore and while it's not difficult I think more details will go far to help new owners.

Just my two cents. I do appreciate this guide and have used it myself - did an o-ring rebuild and diaphragm replacement last week and this guide was very helpful.

[WildWayz]

no probs

I will need to take everything apart again to put my trigger back in (had my accents anodised) so i'll take pics of the QEV and Manifold etc

Off to a festival tomorrow for a few days. Will do it when I get back

[doochnikka™]

This should be stickied

[WildWayz]

Got the photos done - will update the thread today at work

[WildWayz]

I have updated it now - hope that is fine

[ElCoronel]

Awesome! Thanks a bunch!

[Citrus Eskimo]

Can we just copy and paste this and use it as a new Manual for the demon in the box? the DVD needs some TLC.

[rjdeyoung]

Are you guys using a 017 oring for the bumper on the bolt guide? I'm using a 14x2 oring as seen in Jason's video. Just curious if this has changed...

[WildWayz]

I think it is best to use the 14x2 - the manual is a bit out of date and I wasnt sure what o-rings have changed these days. The 017 oring will be fine, but probably not as snug.

[rjdeyoung]

ok...I was a bit confused since I've seen/heard a few different oring sizes to use for the bumper.

[AJD250]

Helped out so much!
I think i lost my screw slot where can i buy one

[Reaper (ACI)]

Originally Posted by AJD250

Helped out so much!
I think i lost my screw slot where can i buy one

Glad you found this, I was going to refer you to this post.
You can get the screw at a hardware store, I'll get the specs tomorrow for you.

[TwistedNerv]

awesome post! i should be getting my demon this week and this will help me alot.