[gwhetzler]

Ok I am in dire need of help here.

I have an X-Vale ULE Custom Mag with a ULE Trigger kit. The mag is leaking somewhere it’s very slight.

If I use the current carrier (.318 or #1), it shoots great but it has that small leak. The leak gets worse if I mess with the Valve I.E. turning it side to side while it is gassed up. In addition, while I shoot it seems to go away, then get louder, and then go away, and get quieter but not in any particular order.

However, it gets weirder, If I use a smaller carrier it does not shoot correctly I.E. It shoots then stops then will shoot again and repeat. With the smaller carrier, the trigger pin almost seems to get stuck in the back position. But the leak seems to stop.

I was using a PE tank regulator when doing all this. When that ran low I switched to a Standard Ninja regulator and the leak got much worse when I shot it with the .318 carrier.

I have 90/4500 SHP Ninja but I do not have any air until Saturday. I do have a MaxFlo regulator that is adjustable and I do believe that it has air in it but not that much. If any of that makes a difference.

Here is what I have done so far:

Replaced every O-ring except for the 2 and the spacer between the c-clip and the shims on the piston and the Reg Nut O-ring. I have the o-rings if you think they need replaced too, but please let me know and ideas about how to get that dammed c-clip off and then back on. I gave up on it.

I have oiled the mag.

I am currently using the .318 or 1 carrier and 2 shims on the bolt and I am currently using 4 shims on the ULE kit.

[demented pumper]

what C clip are you talking about?

are you using the same oring when you are switching carriers? or different orings on each?

which orings were the ones you have not replaced?

[gwhetzler]

I have not replaced the 2 orings and the spacer between the c-clip and the shims on the piston and the Reg Nut O-ring.

The c-clip on the piston when you break the valve in 2 (un screw the valve)

I am using the same oring on the carrier.

[demented pumper]

ya dont mess with those 2 i have never had to change those.have you properly oiled your valve, on/off? also have seen if the valve leaks if you hold the trigger down and can you locate if it is leaking down the barrel, into the frame or out of the side of the valve?

[gwhetzler]

With the Ninja reg and the .318 spacer the leak is coming from the bolt face its very small, but when I fire the gun the leak gers loud and then quite again. But the gun doesnt RT like the PE reg (Im guessing it has to do with the flow difference, as I dont know what they are on between the two) and with the Ninja if I try to RT the gun "burps" for lack of better term.

The leak was coming from the body but when I just tried it I tightened the thumb screw for the body and turn the valve a lil and it stopped from there.

Thank you BTW for helping!

Edit: I have oiled everything.

[Pdubs]

that is ODD. I defer to the greater wisdoms, but check to make sure an o-ring isn't free in the powertube. That causes my RT to do the "burp" action

[mooseslake]

1. You shouldn't be able to have the valve moved at all. Make sure the thumb screw in the back is tight, but only hand tight.

2. If it's leaking from the front then it is in the power tube. Try taking the shims out of the power tube see if that fixes it.

[demented pumper]

shims in the powertube effect when the bolt starts to reset and shouldnt be causing this. i would switch out the powertube oring and retune your lvl10.

[gwhetzler]

The screw is tight, hand tight ( all the mags I have ever owned had a lil play in them with the screw hand tightened).

I will try the powertube oring when I get off work today at 4.

[Skipdogg]

Shouldnt be able to move your valve while its aired up.

Also, if you have a level 7 bolt setup, you could switch it out with the level 10. then try it. If issue goes away its the level 10.

You can do the same with the ULT. take it out and put in a rt on/off if you have one. Try it. if fixed, then its the ult causing problems.

[gwhetzler]

Ok, When I got home the thing wasnt leaking...
But I went up a spacer to the 1.5 and it leaked (no shims)
Now because it WAS leaking I went ahead and went to the .5 then added 2 shims it shot pretty good aside from the crappy regs I have (Standard Ninja, and No Name Reg).
So I swapped the stock Goldish color spring for the red one. Now the very slight leak came back from the bolt face but goes away when I shoot the gun and will come back if it sits without being shot.

That being said Should I just go back to the 1 spacer and goldish color spring that was leaking yesterday but no-longer leaking today?

I am going to pick up some paint and Air in the 90/4500 SHP this weekend (Saturday) and see how the 1100 input will help out.

Im gonna take all my spacers and shims and the goldish and red spring to the field and see what I can do so I dont run low on air.

[gwhetzler]

Skipdog- I bought it used and it didnt have any of the old stuff sadly or else I would have tried that.

[gwhetzler]

Scratch that! I changed back to the #1 Spacer 2 shims and the Red Spring, ULE On/Off is set to 4 shims. NO LEAKS!!!!!!!! And it shoots great. I also did the paintball with tape chop test and no chops at all! Im super excited. Not really sure whats up and why it wasnt working last night except maybe TOO much oil if that is possible.

My only other question is it doesnt want to R/T Rapid Fire now. Im useing a no name reg and the Ninja reg so my best guess is that its the input pressure being too low. I wont know for sure until Saturday unless any of you guys want to chime in.

[demented pumper]

for the valve to shoot faster and harder on paint use the short spring.

[gwhetzler]

K I will try the goldish spring on Sat when I can fill up my SHP Ninja if it still wont R/T with the red spring. You can tell the difference right now between the 3 tanks I have that are currently filled. All of em are at 850ish and below out put.