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Old 02-07-2006, 03:38 PM #1
paintballer187
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- FAQ

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- Comprehensive upgrade/mod thread

Last edited by paintballer187 : 06-05-2006 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 03-26-2006, 03:28 PM #2
paintball_kidz
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CP Regulator adapter manuel:

http://store.customproducts.us/downl...asainstall.pdf
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Old 04-02-2006, 12:05 PM #3
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There is already and after market bolt out = Inverted PB bolt
I heard that some EGO bolt works also.
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Old 04-09-2006, 05:19 PM #4
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You might want to add that you can find replacement eyes that are one piece,saving you money and frame space.Sold by our own paintballer187:
http://www.paintballer187.com/gunacc.html
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Old 06-10-2006, 01:52 PM #5
paintballer187
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BLAST's Info
Number: 925-625-7929
Address:
BLAST
1799 Carpenter Rd.
Oakley, CA 94561
925 625-7929
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Old 06-10-2006, 06:57 PM #6
blaster44
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Quick Specs:

ROF: 23+ BPS
Height: 7 7/8
Length: 7.5"
Modes Of Fire: Capped Ramping, Capped Semi, Uncapped Semi, Uncapped Ramping
Design: Ram-Driven Poppet-Valve With Hammer

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS



1. How does the Defiant 2 compare to an Intimidator?

POSITIVES:
1) About 2'' shorter in length than Intimidators.
2) Lighter than nearly all Intimidators.
3) Cheaper [$550 NIB off PBN] (Contact cartunes99)
4) Easier ram sleeve maintenance and smaller LPR.

NEUTRALS:
1) Same speed capabilities.
2) Virtually, the same performance.

NEGATIVES:
1) Stock bolt and feedneck are not reliable. Intimidators come with a better bolt and clamping feedneck.
2) Not as many settings on the 127.4 (D2) board as the normal. Also, no LCD screen.
3) Relatively more kick than an Intimidator.


2. What parts will fit the Defiant 2?

- All Intimidator Ram Caps
- Alias/2K2 Feednecks
- Autococker Threaded Barrels
- Standard 2 Hole Mount On/Off & Rail
- 2K5 Style Boards (Uses Membrane Pad & Snap Fittings)
- 2K5 Style Triggers
- ASA Threads Do Not Accept Anything Except Torpedo Regulator (VP Adaptor Is Available Though)
- 9V Batteries
- Intimidator Style Grips
- Standard Intimidator Barbs
- Alias Style Solenoid
- Intimidator Style Hoses

NOTE: The D2 DOES NOT take 2K5 frame trigger guards. It is built in on the D2.


3. Should I get a high pressure or low pressure HPA tank for my D2?

Either will work fine. If you use the tank on other guns like blowbacks, you may want to get a high pressure. But, I have noticed that low presure is easier to work with.


4. What do I need out of the box to get my gun working right?

You need an ASA, two 90 degree macroline fittings, a foot of macroline, Dow 33, and tri-flow lubricant. You can get all that stuff except for the tri-flow from:

www.paintballkingdom.com
www.actionvillage.com

There are more sites than that, but I've always had a good experience with those two. For tri-flow, go to your local bicycle store or use www.froogle.com. You may also check the the BST Forums (NIB or Miscellaneous Equipment) for tr-flow. I found some at my local bicycle shop. also recommend a clamping feedneck. But if you sand down your Halo B, the stock feedneck will work fine.


5. How do you adjust the LPR without a guage?

The Defiant 2 comes with a guage assembly that you must insert where the ram sleeve goes. All you have to do is:

- Take out the ram sleeve.
- Put some grease on the guage assembly o-rings. Then, put it where the ram sleeve was. Here's a pic of the guage assembly:


- Gas up the marker.
- The guage will display your current LPR pressure. To adjust it, unscrew the set screw for the LPR to lower the pressure or screw it in to raise it. Then, fire a few shots to balance it.


6. So my eyes just broke and the eyes I can buy have a different connector. How can I replace them?

If your gun is new, call up BLAST and get a new pair. There is a 90-day warranty on all electronics.

If your gun is out of warranty, you need this adapter to replace the eyes.


7. My bolt is sticking forwards and causing bad efficiency or bolt stick. How can I fix this problem?


Check This First:


- If your ram is stiff, try lubing it with Dow 33. If that doesn't work, then replace the o-ring on the shaft (013) and try again. It may take some wearing in to loosen up.

- If the problem continues, try polishing your ram by sanding it lightly with 300 grit sandpaper. Then, finish it up with some 1000 grit sandpaper.

- Your bolt may be too big (milled out of spec, swelled, ect.). So, upgrade or replace your bolt.

- Lube the delrin spacer on the hammer assembly with tri-flow lube.

If the problem persists, contact BLAST.

I've found that the hammer assembly is notoriously hard to keep lubricated at first. About every 500 shots it seems to start sticking a little bit, causing horrid efficency. The only way to fix this is to have a regular style ram (like full Intimidators). At this moment it cannot be done. However, I talked to several companies who were interested in producing it. So, hopefully in the future the problem can be fixed. But in the mean time, keep that ram lubed up. After you get the gun worn in and polished up, it shoots like a dream and is very smooth.

Thanks to Everlight389 and f2f4 on PbReview.
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Old 07-20-2006, 04:08 PM #7
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Since my Defiant 2 came with a 127.1 Frenzy board and some other people's Defiants came with that board, here are the operating instructions:


ON/OFF Operation
To turn ON marker momentarily press the ON/OFF button.
To turn OFF marker press and hold the ON/OFF button.
LCD screen will show [Turning]
[Off ]
After 1 second LCD screen will go blank. Now release the ON/OFF button.
Marker is now OFF.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
When the marker is on, the LCD will display codes representing the status of the marker. The codes are as follows on the 2nd line of the LCD screen.
[ F ]: Standard operation. Forced mode.
[ D ]: Standard operation. Delay mode.
[ S ]: Standard operation. Dry fire (simulate) mode.
[ * ]: Marker limited to 12 BPS: Eye sensor malfunction.
[ C ]: Competition Lock ON. (Semi-auto is not capped)
[ A ]: Full Auto
[ R ]: Ramping
[ S ]: Semi-automatic
[ B ]: Indicates battery is low.

Mode Selection
The LCD is a two-button membrane and menu driven system. To bring up menu options for the gun, hold down both buttons approx.1 second. Upon release you will be placed in the first menu. The 1st button scrolls through the available menus. The 2nd button is for entering a selected menu. Once inside of a given menu, the 1st button increments thru settings. The 2nd button is used to save the setting and exit out of the menu. Below are the definitions of the menus.
DWELL: Determines how long the forward before repeating cycle.
EYE: Activates or deactivates the eye sensor options.
Force: Marker fires only when ball is present at the time of trigger pull.
Delay: Marker fires when ball is present at time of trigger pull or if ball not present waits 1 sec. to fire.
Dry Fire: Marker fires at time of trigger pull. Eye sensor deactivated.
BIP: Ball in Place: Determines how long after trigger pull and eye sensor recognition will the marker begin to fire. Setting too low can cause ball breakage.
BOLT DELAY: Time eye sensor is ignored. This time allows bolt to move forward. Setting too low can cause the marker to dry fire. (blank shot)
TIMER: Determines game timer setting.
DEBOUNCE: Determines time (milliseconds) after trigger pulls which further trigger activity is ignored.
DELAY: Delay is used to slow down the markers top speed. Higher numbers slow the marker down more.
R BPS: Ramp BPS is used to set the rate of trigger pulls required to activate the ramping mode.
M BOUNCE: Mechanical bounce setting is used to stop markers recoil from causing an added shot. “0” deactivates and higher numbers decrease sensitivity of mechanical bounces happening.
COMP MODE: This menu allows you to change trigger response modes.
Full Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times in a second then holding in trigger will result in the marker shooting fully automatically.
RAMP: Marker fires one ball at a time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times a second then trigger pull later may results in two shots being fired.
Semi Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull.

Eye setting can be changed to dry fire mode without entering the menu. With marker off, hold trigger in and turn on marker. Keeping trigger pulled until the LCD goes to it’s normal screen and “S” is on the bottom left of the screen, now release trigger. This will put the marker into dry fire mode with the eye sensor off. This function is disabled with competition mode.

Timer
The count down timer will begin after pressing button 1. The timer will stop after repressing button 1. Pressing button 2 will reset the timer. Timer is not activated when using full auto or ramp modes with competition lock.

Competition Mode and Lock
With competition lock ON the dwell setting is not accessible thru the menu nor are you allowed to change the competition mode. Also the trigger activated dry fire mode is deactivated. The display window of the LCD will show “C” on the 2nd line of the screen if in competition lock.

Marker will be limited to 15 BPS while using full auto or ramping modes with competition lock. While in this mode the top line of LCD will reed “15 BPS”.

Marker is not BPS capped while using competition mode semi-automatic.

To activate Competition Lock:
1. Turn off marker.
2. Open up grip frame to gain access to the circuit board.
3. Short out D and C holes of the top of the board. Paper clips work well for this. Bend the clip so that one end is touching the D and the other end is touching C.
4. Turn marker ON . The display window will show “Comp On” then in the normal window the display will show “C”.
5. Turn marker OFF
6. Disconnect the D and C short.
7. Leave off for at least 30 seconds.
8. Reassemble grip.
9 Ready to use with competition mode.

To turn OFF competition lock follow the same procedure. When not activated the display will not show “C” on the LCD.


This was copied from www.intimidatorowners.com.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:43 PM #8
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by the way. I call the number that is provided on this forum and even on the manual and i get DB Security or soemthing and i called twice and sounded like an idiot when i said i was asking for BLAST. They said i had the wrong number and got agitated when i called the second time.

Please provide a new number. Does BLAST not exist anymore? Do defiant owneres have no Tech support?
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Old 02-08-2007, 06:52 PM #9
FlaScott1152
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Contact for BLAST

Yes, BLAST still exists and is doing great work. They shipped my modified Defiant 2 back to me today. You can contact them at:
Bob Long Technologies
1799 CARPENTER RD
OAKLEY, CA, 94561

(925)625-7929
This is a California number - you won't get a tech before 2:00 or 3:00 Eastern time.
This phone number is a direct line to the shop. The technician is Joe - a great guy and very responsive. He knows Defiants and Timmys inside out and can recommend upgrades that BL doesn't sell.

Last edited by FlaScott1152 : 02-08-2007 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:39 AM #10
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Can i use the eyes from any 2k5 intimidator or do i hvae to get specific d2 eyes?
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:39 PM #11
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Question Max Velocity at 225 fps, How do I go Higher?

I'm having troubles with my defiant 2 where I can't seem to get higher than 225fps at the chrono. When I try to increase the pressure on the regulator my ram begins to leak. I was wondering if anyone else is seeing this problem and how do I fix it. I want to get as close to 300fps as possible.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:17 AM #12
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I recently purchased a Defiant 2 and the buyer says theirs a leak in the Ram housing, is this hard to fix and if im going to need professional help with it how much is it going to cost me?
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Old 09-27-2009, 07:12 PM #13
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dang we need to revive this place lol..

people aren't getting the help they need...
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:55 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E/R/I/C View Post
Can i use the eyes from any 2k5 intimidator or do i hvae to get specific d2 eyes?
they if i am correct alias style eyes, so yes you have to get a new set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyan View Post
I'm having troubles with my defiant 2 where I can't seem to get higher than 225fps at the chrono. When I try to increase the pressure on the regulator my ram begins to leak. I was wondering if anyone else is seeing this problem and how do I fix it. I want to get as close to 300fps as possible.
try rebuilding your reg and re-lubing your ram
Quote:
Originally Posted by mksadng View Post
I recently purchased a Defiant 2 and the buyer says theirs a leak in the Ram housing, is this hard to fix and if im going to need professional help with it how much is it going to cost me?
it could be that the oring seals in your ram sleeve have shot out, or the barbs are leaking due to no fiber rings.

thats all i could help with, if not correct someone help me
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Old 12-14-2009, 07:00 AM #15
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~~~~~~~~~~You might want to add that you can find replacement eyes that are one piece,saving you money~~~~~~~~~~~``

Last edited by jsam : 12-14-2009 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:16 AM #16
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can anyone help me with my defiant .it has good pressure still shoots but sounds like its leaking air down the barrel . any ideas ?
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:40 PM #17
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my defiant defies to work! lol is that even a word. ohh well my gun sux worst investment ever!
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:54 PM #18
Bryonacrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock_your_beaver View Post
can anyone help me with my defiant .it has good pressure still shoots but sounds like its leaking air down the barrel . any ideas ?
My defiant 2 did the same thing. I found that one of the lines from my solenoid was kinked and the air had to escape somewhere maybe this will help if you ever check this again.


I have a question myself, will A tadao yakuza 2k5 2k6 intimidator board fit a defiant? And also I want one of those inverted bolts but never get an email response from the company are they still in business?
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:46 PM #19
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Mine has one of these in it:

http://www.tadaotechnologies.com/pro...4&idproduct=64

And for the bolt mine uses an Acid Custom one. PM here. That's his name. He's in Australia and does great work. He's built some LPC for my autocockers, too.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:12 PM #20
Blueboa
 
 
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im trying to buy a defiant 2, but the guy says it as a leak where a screw goes under the lpr, anyone know?
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