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Old 05-20-2009, 07:42 PM #1
prien007
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A1 mini reg seat oring installation

Any advise on putting the little seat oring back in its place in the brass piston?
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:53 PM #2
Khandra
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Just put some lube on it and stretch it around the base and snap it on like that. Make sure you're using the nylon O-ring. O-ring/dental picks help.
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:59 PM #3
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Im talking about the black oring in the face of the brass piston that creates the seat face against the aluminum. It seems the recess is wider at the base with a smaller opening. Very difficult.
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:57 PM #4
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That is the large piston seat, the one that sits in the on the top of the small piston. I don't think it's an O-ring though. I believe it's a harder plastic used to absorb the impact of the large piston. You'll probably have to replace the entire piston. In which case, just order the mini-reg rebuild kit from any reputable APS distributor.
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:00 AM #5
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If it's what I'm thinking of, it's not made to be replacable. You'll need to buy a minireg rebuild kit for that part like Khandra said.
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:11 AM #6
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^Correct. The large piston seat isn't designed to be replaceable. www.fixmyangel.com for a rebuild kit.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:05 AM #7
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well... if you're talking about part 114048 then you can hunt for a replacement. I just got an A1 whose minireg was basically acting as a gas-through. tore the minireg apart and 114048 was missing. good thing i had a rebuild kit. just replaced the whole 112013 assembly.

http://www.angelpaintballsports.com/...rease-lube.pdf
page 27

description for 114048 is: O Ring. BS003 NBR90.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:59 AM #8
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Just looked at that PDF (added to stickies ) I know on previous Angels (such as the LCD), that part is not user replacable as the end is tapered to hold the o-ring in place. If that's not the case (which it doesn't look like in the manual), a simple new o-ring should fix it.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:09 AM #9
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IIRC it's the same on the A1 mini-reg. Bear in mind that that is a grease guide for assemblers - not a guide for end users. About half of the parts shown in that guide aren't serviceable.
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:25 AM #10
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114048 is what I'm talking about and was missing from an used a1 I am working on. The hole is rolled over the oring, but I had hoped it was replaceable. It appears not, atleast not without $12. Ugh
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:50 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.strangelove View Post
IIRC it's the same on the A1 mini-reg.
Ahh, looked different in the manual than in person.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.strangelove View Post
Bear in mind that that is a grease guide for assemblers - not a guide for end users. About half of the parts shown in that guide aren't serviceable.
I agree, but it's always good to have the documentation available for those that want to look at it. I even marked it in the stickies as overkill for most users and to instead reference the user manual.
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:48 PM #12
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Well seeing as I am stubborn and that the brass piston is completely useless if I have to replace it, I tried to open up the hole a bit. I used a hardened dowel and tried to burnish the hole back open a bit on a lathe. The opening at the end appears to start at about ~.125in and I opened up to about ~.145in. I was able to reinsert a new oring rather easily and it appears secure and flat. It seem to shoot fine as well. Lets hope for the best.
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:56 PM #13
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lol. nice!

if you have the angel gauges, i would measure the mini-reg output pressure. say fire a shot. watch the gauge for a minute. fire another one. watch for another minute. or i guess you can chrono and see if your fps goes up.

When my oring was gone, my minireg basically turned into a gas-through. good thing i was using an almost empty tank and an adjustable tank outputting 300psi. but i would fire a shot. and watch the pressure gauge slowly go right up to what my adjustable was outputting.

hope it holds up and good luck!
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:39 PM #14
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Nice, you just opened it back up, not removed material, correct? Let us know how it holds up.
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:39 PM #15
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I did the chrono thing, back to back and then waiting.

The only reason I was suspect of this gun was something similar to what your saying. Id chrono it at 270,280,270ish, wait for 20 or so seconds and then get 320, but all the closely consecutive shot were in the 270 range.

The best bet would be to actually use the gauges though.

Well my intention was to not remove metal, but some does rub off in the process, namely because my tool is not turning.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:59 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prien007 View Post
my tool is not turning.
That's what she said

Saved yourself some dough I guess. Should work fine that way as long as the o-ring still protrudes the way it should.
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