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01-17-2013, 07:20 AM
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#1870
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dominantgazelle
I've decided to settle with the SLP regulator. But I was wondering on the PRO reg if you could change the shim stuff while the tank was aired up? I don't know much about tanks so sorry if that's a really simple/stupid question.
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Before working on any HPA regulator, you need to make sure there is no air in the bottle
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01-17-2013, 10:20 AM
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#1871
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I was recently shipped a ninja 68/45 and for some reason the guy shipped it with the reg off so is there any wron way of putting it on? I figured just put it in a vice and use an oil filter tool to tighten it.
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01-17-2013, 11:29 AM
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#1872
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apstephens97
I was recently shipped a ninja 68/45 and for some reason the guy shipped it with the reg off so is there any wron way of putting it on? I figured just put it in a vice and use an oil filter tool to tighten it.
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You can hand tighten a reg and leave it on a bottle. If you choose to do it this way, you have to make sure there is no gap between the bottom of the reg body and the neck of the bottle. You also have to make sure that when you unscrew your air system from the marker, you need to make sure you use the regulator as leverage instead of the back of the bottle. That will make sure the bottle and regulator do not separate upon removal.
You can also torque the reg and snug it down on the bottle. From the factory, we use 1/2 of a measured drop of red loctite on the threads that go into the neck but thats only there to help slow down the removal process, not stop it entirely.
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01-17-2013, 08:39 PM
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#1873
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NJ
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I removed the bonnet and relubed the piston orings after inspecting & cleaning with a cloth. Wasn't dirty. However the bonnet tool slightly cut the threads on the dist. Body. It screwed back in fine though I had to wipe a little debris from it. Will that be a problem? I still have to get to a shop to refill it. Also for my dm11 could I remove a red shim on the reg to have it set at 650 psi? I hope I'm not a pain lol
Last edited by Ravenstylea2 : 01-17-2013 at 09:19 PM.
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01-18-2013, 04:53 PM
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#1874
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenstylea2
I removed the bonnet and relubed the piston orings after inspecting & cleaning with a cloth. Wasn't dirty. However the bonnet tool slightly cut the threads on the dist. Body. It screwed back in fine though I had to wipe a little debris from it. Will that be a problem? I still have to get to a shop to refill it. Also for my dm11 could I remove a red shim on the reg to have it set at 650 psi? I hope I'm not a pain lol
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Nope, not a problem at all. Just make sure to clean out all of the debris. For a dm11, you can safely remove 1 red shim to drop the output pressure. Depending on your setup, you may actually be able to remove both red shims. If you get any shootdown under rapid fire or you can't chrono over say 270-280 then you know you need a bit more pressure and you can add in 1 red shim
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01-18-2013, 05:03 PM
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#1875
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob @ Ninja PB
Nope, not a problem at all. Just make sure to clean out all of the debris. For a dm11, you can safely remove 1 red shim to drop the output pressure. Depending on your setup, you may actually be able to remove both red shims. If you get any shootdown under rapid fire or you can't chrono over say 270-280 then you know you need a bit more pressure and you can add in 1 red shim
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ok. What's the benefit of a lower pressure setup? Will the gun perform different, shoot different, or have any changes in efficiency?
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01-18-2013, 05:27 PM
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#1876
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenstylea2
ok. What's the benefit of a lower pressure setup? Will the gun perform different, shoot different, or have any changes in efficiency?
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Why feed your gun more pressure than it needs and make it work hard to regulate a higher pressure when it can use a lower pressure?
Think of it like running your car at redline. Yes, you can run the car and it will be fine but you're putting a lot of wear and tear on the parts.
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01-18-2013, 08:18 PM
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#1877
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NJ
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I see so its better on the seals for the reg. thanks!
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01-18-2013, 09:10 PM
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#1878
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenstylea2
I see so its better on the seals for the reg. thanks!
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Yup. Even though most stock hpr's can accept anything from low to high pressure from a tank regulator, we would always recommend the lower or medium setting. No sense in putting more pressure in the gun than it needs to operate correctly. On the G6R and Victory, you will see performance increases like more shots out of a fill when you start to "optimize" your output pressure from your tank regulator
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01-20-2013, 09:56 AM
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#1879
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
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I have a 68/45 pure energy tank and reg .. If I buy a ninja reg will it fit in that bottle
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01-20-2013, 11:08 AM
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#1880
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Got a ninja used reg (got the latest standard reg) and there's only 2 red chims in it.
Is this right to get HP 850psi for my Geo 2.05? Or is it anyway that I can measure the output pressure?
Last edited by garm_66 : 01-20-2013 at 11:11 AM.
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01-21-2013, 09:05 AM
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#1881
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volcom955
I have a 68/45 pure energy tank and reg .. If I buy a ninja reg will it fit in that bottle
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It sure will
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01-21-2013, 09:07 AM
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#1882
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garm_66
Got a ninja used reg (got the latest standard reg) and there's only 2 red chims in it.
Is this right to get HP 850psi for my Geo 2.05? Or is it anyway that I can measure the output pressure?
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If it has (2) red shims and there were no silver shims removed prior to you receiving the regulator, it should output around 800psi, + or - 25psi. You should be able to remove one red shim and successfully run your geo 2. You might also be able to remove both shims but if you get any shootdown under rapid fire or can't chrono over 260-270fps, then you know you need to add (1) red shim back in the regulator.
If you want to test the reg, you can call a local shop or field to see if they have a tank regulator tester. We also provide FREE testing at all national events we attend (psp, nppl, and big games)
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01-23-2013, 12:29 AM
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#1883
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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I have a ninja tank with a ninja regulator, and when I have checked the pressure, it has shown that it isn't regulating normally (well over 1000psi), not to mention putting so much pressure through it that it has blown through the macroline once and blown a macro fitting into two pieces as well. What needs to be done to correct this?
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01-23-2013, 11:07 AM
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#1884
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POWERHOUSE REGS
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaintFreak98
I have a ninja tank with a ninja regulator, and when I have checked the pressure, it has shown that it isn't regulating normally (well over 1000psi), not to mention putting so much pressure through it that it has blown through the macroline once and blown a macro fitting into two pieces as well. What needs to be done to correct this?
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Hi PaintFreak, it sounds as if something is wrong with the internals of the regulator. Were you the original owner of the tank or was it bought second hand? Have you degassed the system and dismantled the regulator to examine the internals? I am assuming by your post it is just the standard 4.500 adjustable reg? You should have 2 red shims in the regulator and maybe 1-2 paper thin silver shims, is that what is in your regulator?
Please answer those questions so Rob or I can better assist you, thanks!
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01-23-2013, 02:06 PM
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#1885
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f8al
Hi PaintFreak, it sounds as if something is wrong with the internals of the regulator. Were you the original owner of the tank or was it bought second hand? Have you degassed the system and dismantled the regulator to examine the internals? I am assuming by your post it is just the standard 4.500 adjustable reg? You should have 2 red shims in the regulator and maybe 1-2 paper thin silver shims, is that what is in your regulator?
Please answer those questions so Rob or I can better assist you, thanks!
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I bought it second-hand from a teammate. I degassed it last night and inspected all of the internals, it was a bit dirty, but no debris that I could see. I didn't see any issues with the piston, but it did seem a little marred up (just the surface being a bit rough in a few spots). It is a standard 4,500 regulator, and I had two red and two silver shims, I went ahead and removed one red and one silver while cleaning it last night.
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01-24-2013, 07:37 AM
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#1886
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Sounds like it might be time for a rebuild. You can pick one up for about $12-$15. Replace your old piston with the new one after you lube it up and that should take care of any overpressurizing or creep issues. Could be a damaged ball seat on your current piston
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01-24-2013, 03:22 PM
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#1887
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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How does that happen?
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01-25-2013, 09:45 AM
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#1888
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John 3:30
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Texas
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My Ninja tank that I got 2 years ago has been having a very slow leak out of the tank when I unscrew it. Its not a huge deal but I was just wanting to know how to fix it.
__________________
GO BUFFS!!
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01-25-2013, 12:16 PM
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#1889
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaintFreak98
How does that happen?
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It can happen from a piece of debris getting blown into your reg from the fill station
It can happen from slam filling but its kinda rare for that to happen
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01-25-2013, 12:18 PM
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#1890
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9HEADBANDSAGG
My Ninja tank that I got 2 years ago has been having a very slow leak out of the tank when I unscrew it. Its not a huge deal but I was just wanting to know how to fix it.
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In order for me to help you, I need to know exactly where the leak is coming from.
About 90-95% of the leaks on any Ninja regulator can be taken care of with a quick cleaning and relube of the orings with a silicone based grease only
If you have air in your system, submerge the regulator underwater and let me know exactly where the leak is coming from (ie: burst disk threads, the face of the gauge, between the bonnet and body of the regulator)
Once I know exactly where the leak is coming from, I can tell you exactly what to do to fix it.
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