[meMYSELFnI]

Welcome to the World of the Threshold Marker!

Below you will find links that will allow you to skip to whichever section you need in order to keep your Threshold in Excellent Working Condition!

I have included "Tips n Tricks" in each section that I have found useful and hope you will find then enlightening as well.

You will notice that throughout the tutorial that I use many different lubes to maintain my Threshold Marker. These are not required and you may use any lubes that you have available to you. I believe that there isn't a magic lube that will fix every problem or should be applied to ALL parts of this marker. Nearly any lube will work. However, specific lubes on certain parts may enable you to spend less time maintaining your marker and more time on the field. There are also lubes that will decrease performance if applied to specific parts. I will make suggestions for parts/O-rings throughout the tutorial.

Warning!
I tried to write this with detailed descriptions and pictures to help everyone.
I'm not responsible for any damage that might occur to any marker while someone tries to follow this tutorial. I have no control over what a person will do while reading this and will not take responsibility for there action. If you are not comfortable with doing anything listed below, please contact Dangerous Power for instructions, or take your Threshold marker to any Dangerous Power Certified Technician.

Dangerous Powers Contact Information can be found Here

Links to Section:

Maintaining Your Bolt Assembly
H.P.R. Breakdown - High Pressure Regulator
R.A.P.S. Breakdown- Rapid Air Pressurizing System
Separating the Frame and Body
Solenoid Breakdown
Trigger Breakdown


Other Threshold Links:

Register Your Marker
Threshold Part Swapping
Threshold Animation and How it works (Explained)
Official Dangerous Power Threshold Manual
Rottensquad07's Fusion/Threshold O-ring Chart

How often should you lube the Regulator and Bolt Assembly you say?
I don't think there is a clear cut, by the book, solid known answer to this.
There are too many things like:

What kind of lube you use?
How much do you play?
How much do you shoot?
How clean is the fills that your getting at the places you play?

I can't tell you exactly when you need to clean and relube, but I'll tell you what I do.
I disassemble clean and lube my bolt after each day of play. Typically if I still have good lube on the bolt and no paint at all I'll just inspect it and lube where needed.
The HPR I inspect after about 7 cases or so. Usually I don't keep track so the HPR reminds me by having inconsistent FPS at the Crono.
SO Keep your bolt lubed at all times and HPR after 5-7 cases or when it gets inconsistent.
The solenoid RARELY needs to be lubed. Just check it once after you have bought the Threshold replace the green lube with a non swelling lube 50/50 ideally and enjoy playing with it. The venting air from the bolt will blow lube through your noid, so as long as you keep your bolt lubed, your noid will be lubed.

Additionally The Threshold is a low pressure marker. The HPR (high pressure regulator) will allow you to adjust your tanks pressure to the markers operating pressure, which is about 180 psi. The Threshold doesn't have a gauge on the HPR so that is just an estimate. Since the Threshold's OP (operating pressure) is below what a HP (high pressure 850psi) and LP (low pressure 450psi) tank, either tank will work with the Threshold equally well.

[meMYSELFnI]

Threshold Bolt Maintenance/Disassembly

Regular maintenance of the bolt assembly is vital to a trouble free operation of the Threshold.

For the regular cleaning of the marker skip Steps #7, #8, and #9.

Here is what I do for regular maintenance. This is more detailed then what is necessary, but is what I have found to keep my marker working in optimal performance and trouble free operation. The lubes used are my preference. However, a 50/50 mix will work for all application, but will need more attention, more regularly. Dow 33 will work by itself, but because of the viscosity (thickness) of it, it can cause FSDO (first shot drop off) and/or bolt stick. 50/50 mixture is recommended.
In some of the pictures you will notice that I have the frame removed from the body. This isn’t needed. I just happen to have the body separated at the time.

Tools needed:

3/16 allen wrench
50/50 mix Equal parts dow33 and Gold Cup
Dental tool or O-ring pick set
Rag

Step #1 As you can see in the picture. A clean work area makes the job easy and makes it less likely that pieces and O-ring will be misplaced. The threshold marker was designed to be stripped, cleaned, and put back together, at the field, easily and within only a couple minutes.


Step #2 Unscrew the back cap counter clockwise, using the 3/16 allen wrench included with your marker.


Step #3 Shown is the complete assembly of the bolt, body, and back cap.


Step #4 Remove the bolt from the body and wipe the bolt and O-ring clean. Don’t forget to clean the inside rear of the bolt with the rag also. Replace any damaged O-ring and then reapply the 50/50 mix lube on the 3 O-rings, located at the front of the bolt. Notice that it doesn’t take much. Too much lube will cause FSDO (first shot drop off), or bolt stick. I also lube the bolt in this area so that it will lube the internal O-ring in the body when the bolts replaced. The outside of the bolt doesn’t need lube anywhere else. If your bolt sticks and won't cycle once aired up, the #3 oring is usually the problem.
It seems like bolt stick. Use a SWELLING lube on the #3 oring and let it seal. If your marker doesn't cycle after it has swelled up, you will need to replace it.
At this time you should clean in internals of the body. Just wipe clean what you can reach with the rag. The front chamber, feedneck, and barrel threads should be wiped clean. If you have had a ball beak in the chamber, the eye covers should be removed, using the 5/64 allen wrench. Use the pick to aid in the separation on the eyes and eye wires from the body. Be careful with the eye wires. Clean the eyes, dents, and eye covers from all paint before replacing them on the body. The dents don’t need to be lubed.


Step #5 I use slick honey on these next couple areas, but the 50/50 mix will work. The Slickhoney needs only a film on the internal of the rear of the bolt. Too much and it’ll cause problems. It will last longer and is slicker than any other lube that I’ve found. You can even skip this step and just apply it to the back cap O-ring as seen in the next step.


Step #6 After wiping all the dirty lube from the back cap and it’s O-rings, reapply fresh clean lube. Don’t forget to lube the back cap sealing O-ring located next to the threaded area that screws into the body. Just a light coat will do. If your back cap comes loose while shooting, it’s most likely due to this O-ring. If the cap does come loose, a swelling lube like dow55 will help.


Step #7 It is not necessary to lube the bumper O-ring, although, because of some reports of the Bumper O-ring unseating itself, I do lube this with a swelling lube. So far I haven’t had a problem with it unseating itself. You don’t need to take this O-ring out for any reason, unless it is damaged. Removal of this O-ring will make it more likely to unseat itself later. It is a very difficult O-ring to remove and replace. If it does become unseated it's most likely that it did that because you over pressurized the marker. It doesn't need to be replaced unless it becomes damaged. Just press it back in and be more aware of how your tuning your HPR.


Step #8 This is a picture of the removal of the internal O-ring. It will rarely, if ever, need to be removed. However, if it becomes damaged and you hear a leak in the barrel area, this is most likely the cause. Using the pick, insert it down the barrel area to remove this O-ring. When reassembling, put it on your finger to press it back into the internal slot. Lubing this O-ring is not necessary since you can just apply the lube to the bolt and cycle it a few times to coat this O-ring. Look at the picture in Step#4 to see where to apply the lube to the bolt.



Step #9 After putting the bolt back in the body. Move the bolt back and forth to coat the internal O-ring and make sure everything slides freely

Tips n Tricks
*Lube the threads on both halves of the barrel to prevent the threads from binding. I use Slickhoney as shown, but anything is better than nothing. I’ve been playing with the Threshold since Aug 07 and my threads still look like new. This is why they look like this and they always screw together like silk.


*Less is more. I’ve found that a very thin film of Slickhoney on the bolt, between the front O-ring and second to end O-ring on the bolt, will help with smoother cycling. Since the Slickhoney only requires a very small amount, it’s less likely to create bolt stick caused by over lubing.

[meMYSELFnI]

Disassembly of the Threshold HPR (High Pressure Regulator)


Make sure that the macroline is removed and the Threshold has NO air in it.
Any thick lube would be fine to use for the lubing of the HPR assembly and O-rings. I have listed a couple suggestions that are my preference, but don’t worry about rushing off to get them if you already have some lube on hand. Just use what you have. Thicker lubes will last longer between cleanings. Dow33 will even work, but will require cleaning/relubing more often. Don’t use oil.

Here are the tools needed:
Strap wrench
1/4 allen wrench
3/8 allen wrench
(Substitute 3/8 allen wrench for a 1/4" and 1/8" allen wrenches which are included with new purchases)
Dow55 or similar thick lube
Rag

Step #1 Loosen the HPR by turning it counterclockwise by hand or strap wrench. If you don’t have a strap wrench, a wet towel or even a computer mouse pad will give you a better grip when unscrewing this by hand.


Step #2 If you can’t remove the top of the HPR by hand, you can use either a 3/8” allen wrench (as shown)to loosen it. This allen wrench is not supplied with the Threshold and will have to be purchased separately. An alternative is to use the strap wrench, wet towel, or even a computer mouse pad to help you removed the HPR with.
Here’s a little trick. Use the 1/4 allen wrench in combination with 1/8 allen wrench to loosen the top portion of the HPR. Simply put them side by side and use the same way as the 3/8 allen wrench.


Step #3 Using the 1/4” allen wrench, screw the velocity screw clockwise until it stops. This will raise the piston and make it easier to remove.
Holding the bottom half of the HPR upside down, gently tap the assembly on a flat surface until the piston falls free.


Step#4 Once the piston is out the assembly, it should look like this. Clean off all O-rings and wipe all surfaces clean. Replace any damaged O-rings.


Step#5 There are 4 O-rings that need to be lubed occasionally on the HPR assembly.
2 of the O-rings you can see in this last picture on the piston need to be lubed with a thick lube. Use what lubes you have to lube these O-rings.
Dow 55 or a swelling lube should be used on the 2 O-rings on the top portion of the HPR when reassembling.
In the top left of the piston picture you will see a black area. This is the regulator seat. This little guy can cause problems so don’t forget to inspect it for any damage. If the Regulator seat is damaged you will have a lot of flucuations in FPS. Most reg seats are damaged by the user screwing the velocity adjusting screw in too far and crushing the seat. If this happens you will need to contact DP for a replacement. I apologize for not having a better picture of it, but Xluben will have better pictures of the regulator seat in his tutorial on the G3
Last but not least. Pay close attention to the # and order of the shim stack. Some of the G3 manuals have the shim stack in the WRONG order. Below is the order that the shims should be in on both the Threshold and the G3.


Now just a few suggestions:
The HPR doesn’t need to be lubed after each day of play. Clean when you are getting inconsistencies in velocity. From my experience, letting the O-rings settle and seal will make the HPR more consistent (breaking in the regulator)
There is no reason take off the C-clip or the velocity screw at the bottom of the regulator, unless they are damaged and there is a leak in that area. The right tools make a job easy. This is the tool that you will need to remove the C-clip correctly and easily. I bought this at Harbor Freight for under $5.


Tips n Tricks

**If you don’t like having to use a strap wrench or allen wrenches every time you need to clean your HPR, simply put a small amount of lube on the threads to prevent the threads from binding. It keeps the threads looking new and makes it much more easy to remove. Any thick lube would be fine for this application, although some will last longer than other.

*This is not necessary to do, but if you’re going to store your marker for an extended period of time. A very small amount of oil can be applied to the shims and then wiped off, so you have only a very thin layer on the shims. If you apply too much the shims can stick to one another, so just a small amount. The coating on the shims should prevent any moisture from corroding the metal shims, but it’s just an added protection.

[meMYSELFnI]

Disassembly of the R.A.P.S. (Rapid Air Pressurizing System)


It’s entirely up to you to remove the RAPS from the rail or not. It’s not necessary if you just need to lube the piston or if you’re troubleshooting a leak.

Tools Needed:

3/32 allen wrench
5/64 allen wrench
Dow55 or similar swelling lube

Step #1 If you would like to take off the RAPS from the rail use a 3/32 allen wrench to loosen the set screw. You shouldn’t need to remove the screw completely to get the RAPS off.


Step #2 Unscrew the screw securing the lever, spring, and piston to the RAPS using a 5/64 allen wrench.


Step#3 This is the internals of the RAPS. The piston, with the 2 orings on it, need to be lubed with dow55 or similar swelling lube.
These 2 orings are the cause of most leaks associated with the RAPS. Usually you just have to lube the orings, but if they show any signs of wear, replace them. Lube them with any lube you have on hand, swelling lubes work better though. If you lube with Dow55 and you get a leak, it’s most likely because the lube has worn off and you just need to relube them.


Tips n Tricks

*The threaded hole on the side of the RAPS shouldn’t be messed with, unless you’re mounting a gauge. If you get a leak from that spot, Teflon or Blue Loctite should fix it. If you use Teflon tape make sure that it’s only on the threads of the screw.

*A small amount of lube on the threads where the tank screws in will help ease screwing the tank in and out. Apply it with your finger to either the tank threads or the internal RAPS threads. Don’t use oil.

*Always completely degas your marker prior to trying to remove the tank. After flipping the lever up, shoot a few times w/eyes off to get the rest of the air out of your marker. This will ensure that no pressure is still pressing against the tank, and will keep both the RAPS and tank threads in good condition.

*Here’s something to save you some grief with putting you’re micro lines into the elbows.
Taper/round the end of the macro fitting slightly. In the picture I just cut it with a razor blade. It makes inserting the macro much easier and holds just as well as leaving it at a 90* angle.

[meMYSELFnI]

Separation of the Thresholds Body and Frame


This will help anyone needing to add a trigger rendition kit, service the solenoid, or troubleshoot a leak between the frame and body. If you still have your HPR attached you will need to remove that first. Use a strap wrench to remove the HPR before beginning.

What you’ll need:

3/32” Allen Wrench
5/64” Allen Wrench
1/4” Allen Wrench
Pair of small pliers
Dow 55 or similar swelling lube


Step #1 Remove the grip screws from the left side of the grip frame using the 3/32 allen wrench. You can remove both sides, but it’s not necessary.
Also remove the Eye covers on both sides using the 5/64 allen wrench.


Step #2 Loosen the snatch grip’s hidden screw with the 3/32 allen wrench. 1/2 – 3/4 turn is all it takes. There is no need to remove the screw. Then simply slide off the snatch grip.


Step #3 Loosen the grip frame’s hidden screw the same way you did the snatch grip. Remember you only need to loosen it.


Step #4 Remove the Screw in the front of the marker where the HPR was mounted, using the 1/4 allen wrench.


Step #5 Time to unplug the solenoid connector from the circuit board using the pliers. Grab only the top half of the connecter when doing this. Do this carefully so you don’t bend the pins or damage the connector. Sometimes the whole connecter will slide off the pins. That’s okay. Just separate the connector’s pieces and slide the bottom/receiving end back on the pins. Be sure to do it carefully so you don’t damage the pins


Step #6 The grip frame should now be able to slide about 1/2 inch rearward on the body. You should then be able to separate the frame and body easily. Be careful with the solenoid connector snagging on any other wires when separating the body and frame. The eyes should be removed from the body at this time. Notice that the eye wires run on one side of the solenoid when separating. This is how you will need it to run them inside the frame when you put it back together, or it can interfere with the trigger.


Step #7 The O-ring in the picture is the one you will need to put the Dow55 on. This O-ring will nearly never need to be changed. If there is a leak in that area and that O-ring is suspected to be damaged, it’s more likely to be the front frame screw not being tight enough. Make sure that the O-ring is in its proper place before remounting the frame to body.


Tips n Tricks

*Use super glue to adhere the dent spring to the eye cover, and you’ll never have to worry about losing it again. All it takes is a drop. Then place the spring back on the eye cover and let it dry before re-mounting the covers.

[meMYSELFnI]

Breakdown of the Threshold Solenoid


The Dangerous Power Threshold Solenoid is a very reliable, user friendly, and rarely ever needs to be cleaned or lubed. If you are not having marker problems, don’t mess with it. If you are having problems with the cycling of your marker contact Dangerous Power. If they recommend you clean, lube, or replace O-ring on the piston, or replace the piston in the solenoid. I hope this tutorial will help you.

Refer to the “Complete Separation of the Thresholds Body and Frame” section to get to the point where you can access the solenoid.

Read completely before starting.

Tools needed:

5/32” Flathead Screwdriver
5/64 Allen wrench supplied with purchase
Small Needle Nose Pliers or small tweezers
Dental tool or O-ring pick
50/50 mix dow33 gold cup
Dow55 or similar swelling lube

Step #1 First, unscrew the 2 mounting screws securing the solenoid to the body. These screws have very small threads and, if over tightened, can strip very easily.


Step #2 Remove the 2 O-rings that seal the solenoid to the body and place them in a bag or safe place. These are small and can be lost very easily.


Step#3 Time to use that screwdriver. The screw driver I’m using is a 5/32 flat head screw driver. You can use another size screw driver just as long as it fits the screw’s width. If you use too small of a screw driver; the screw will be harder to unscrew, can damage the screw head, and possibly strip the screw’s head. This screw can be very tight and being on such a small object, can be difficult to loosen just by holding the solenoid. If you can’t unscrew it by holding it, you can use a vice. Be sure to put something on the sides of the solenoid as to not damage it. You can also use vice grips, but as before, protect the solenoid from any metal device holding it! Leather is great to use.


DON’T TOUCH THIS SIDE! Here is another picture, but of the wrong side! You don’t need to open this side for anything ever. Notice the Hex head/Allen screws on this side? If you touch those screws and separate the halves of the solenoid, say bye-bye to your warranty! Unless instructed by Dangerous Power, leave this side alone.


Here you can see what it will look like after you remove the screw.


Step #4 Welcome to the most frustrating part of the solenoid. Depending on the condition of the O-rings, lube, and piston, this can be a pain in the… First remove the spring and set it aside. If you’re lucky enough to have a pair of small tweezers that will allow you to just grab the piston, while fully inserted, your luckier than I am and can skip the next paragraph.

Here’s the dance and be prepared to put your patience to the test. Find a hard flat surface that will not shake or move. Place a few sheets of paper or something similar that will remain flat, but won’t harm the finish of the solenoid. Like the HPR’s piston, you will need to turn it upside down. Holding it securely and at a perfect 90* angle to the flat surface; sharply hit it against the surface. You may need to do it several times, but what you want is to get the piston to move towards the screw opening.


Step #5 You’re Victorious! Get those needle nose pliers or small tweezers, and take it out the rest of the way. This is what you should have.


Step #6 Clean it up, replace O-rings that are showing ANY wear, and relube with the 50/50 mix. You will only need a thin layer of lube on these O-ring. Don’t over lube them and stay away from any swelling lubes.


To put back together, just reverse steps. You don’t need the solenoid piston screw anywhere near as tight as they have from the factory. Just tighten it up, but don’t crank down on it.
Also remember those 2 little O-rings that you placed in the bag. LIGHTLY lube them with Dow55 or other swelling lube and don’t over tighten the screws that secure the solenoid to the body. Once you feel resistance, tighten each one just a little bit at a time, alternating from one to the other until tight.

If you can't make head or tails from the pictures and descriptions, IntenseImage has made a great video of the disassembly of the solenoid.
DP Solenoid Maintenance Vid By IntenseImage

Tips n Tricks

*It’s worth it to find tweezers small enough to just grab the piston out of the solenoid. The best advice I can give is to find a solid flat surface to hit it on if you don’t have tweezers or pliers that will allow you to just grab the piston. Granite countertops are ideal, but even hard wood table, or even a driveway (be sure to put something down i.e. towel) will do.

*If you need to replace any O-rings on the piston, save yourself the hassle and just cut them off. Replacing the O-rings on the piston is enough of a pain.

*Once the piston is properly lubed, hold it with the pliers and move it back and forth inside the solenoid. This will help get rid of the excess lube and make slide more easily, less likely to cause FSDO too.

*Lastly. That solenoid end screw that was a pain to get off. Clean the threads up before screwing it back on the solenoid. It’ll make it easier to remove if you ever need to again.

[meMYSELFnI]

Threshold Trigger Removal

Before beginning, refer to the “Complete Separation of the Thresholds Body and Frame”.

Once you have removed the frame from the body you will be able to begin with this section.

This section is for anyone changing out there trigger or installing a Magnetic Rendition Trigger Kit.

All that is needed is the 3/32 allen screw.

Step #1 Remove the Trigger mounting screw with the 3/32 allen wrench.


Step #2 Remove the trigger out of the top of the trigger frame.


Step #3 Take note on where the trigger return spring is located. If you are installing a Magnetic return, this is where you will be super gluing one of the magnets.


Step #4 This picture shows how the trigger sets inside of the trigger frame. At the far end of the trigger directly above where the spring looks like it’s going to touch the trigger, this is where the second magnet will mount for your magnetic return. Make sure that the magnets on both the frame and trigger will repel one another before you super glue the second magnet.


To put back together just reverse the steps.

ENJOY!

[xluben]

Looks good!

[Lucky4143]

wowzors.... you deserve a cookie!

[xluben]

Table of Contents:

Maintaining Your Bolt Assembly
H.P.R. Breakdown - High Pressure Regulator
R.A.P.S. Breakdown- Rapid Air Pressurizing System
Separating the Frame and Body
Breakdown of the Threshold Solenoid
Trigger Breakdown

Feel free to copy/paste into OP.

This looks great. Even better with all the pics in the right places!

[meMYSELFnI]

lol
Ya took a bit to put the stuff together.

Lucky - I'll take that cookie

[Lucky4143]

Yummmmmmmmm

[Rockyboarder]

Stickage

[xluben]

The last step is the best:

Originally Posted by meMYSELFnI

To put back together just reverse the steps.

[ck8l4]

And I was going to do a video of this! THanks for taking that pressure off :nododgy: looks good though!

[meMYSELFnI]

Originally Posted by xluben

The last step is the best:

I just scrolled up. LOL
your right, didn't even notice that!lol
looks like your putting it back together lightening fast.

Originally Posted by ck8l4

And I was going to do a video of this! THanks for taking that pressure off :nododgy: looks good though!

Do the video if you want. The more info the better. Plus some people just need to see it done to get it.

[ck8l4]

ha ha.. YA but I am lazy...

[sflusch]

Sticky!

[ck8l4]

Do not know if you want This. I demonstrates how to remove the bolt and lube it. well the first few minutes does at least

[rottensquad07]

Very very very nice!!! This should definently be stickied.

I really should quit being lazy and do this for the Fusion since the one in the stickies no longer has working pics.

[IntenseImage]

Very nice job on this. Stuff like this takes time so its nice to see it done right