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01-20-2006, 09:37 AM
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#1
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Have a homebrew
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Payson, Utah
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Everything you ever needed to know about your Dragun!
Well, Drefish said that if we created a compilation thread of mods and info for our draguns, he would sticky it. So here it goes.
T1 and/or TES mods:
MEMBRANE MOD-CLAMMY/T1
Clamshell on your T1
Stock valve mod
DRAGUN MODS AND MANUALS <------Macdev mod, etc.
TES/Spyder mods
Plunger Mod
Coining the Noid
Lube Dragun Reg
Jumper diode mod for T1 only:
buy a 1A diode from radioshack and place in on the T1 board linking ports 1 and 3 (on the top side of the board, under or on top of the LCD). Pic. of mod location pic of diode the band (on the diode) goes on the port 1 side.
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
you now have nitro mode
Misc. Parts:
Shocktech bolt, TES tube, cupseal
alamo city bolts, ram, bolt pin, cupseals
T1 replacement noid
fittings and hosing at air soldier
fittings and hosing at palmer pursuit shop
dragunfly striker
trigger for m42, m95
anti-siphon kit
black dragun Rear cocking bolt
TES, mech dfly, d-fire/BD parts kit
Black Dragun Trigger
black dragun trigger 2
black dragun trigger 3
General Information about draguns:
bolt: ACP, shocktech, blue bolt, bandit, tigershark (swells), Jam-bolt (sucks IMO)
Valve: Rocket valve , tornado valve, or stock modded.
feedneck: ogi speedneck, clamping (ebay), twistlock (ebay)
LPR: palmers micro rock w/ zenitram adapter zenitram adapter or timmy front block with respirator, or other timmy LPR
triggers: TBO (not in production), zenitram (above link), Dayward (pbn)
Ram: T1 ram
Striker: nightstriker (as well as others, don't know names). magnums striker-not sure if it fits TES
HPR: any standard threaded HPR
QEV: QEV with adapter
Switch: 25g, 50g Scenariodreams.com , or QEV with adapter
Tboard: scenariodreams.com as well as eye
Spyder threaded barrel, M3 threaded barbs, T1 requires HPA or anti-siphoned CO2, TES can run on regular CO2 or HPA. anti-siphon kit
Adjusting LPR on a T1:
Set HPR to around 225-250psi. Turn LPR CW until the solenoid starts to leak, then turn back 1/4 turn, and the LPR is set. Then you can mess with dwell if you choose to. The dwell is the amount of time that the valve is open, therefore, a higher dwell gives you higher fps, but lower cycling time (less bps).
__________________
Have you ever brewed beer from start to finish, kegged it, then poured a cold one from a tap in your own home? No? Why even live?
º¤ø„¸¨°º¤ø„¸¸„ø¤º°¨¸„ø¤º°¨
¨°º¤ø„¸ Kanye West ¸„ø¤º°¨copy and paste
¸„ø¤º°¨ Ur Gayfish!!! `°º¤ø„¸if you think Kanye is Gayfish!
¸„ø¤º°¨¸„ø¤º°¨¨°º¤ø„¸¨°º¤
2009 Alien Independence
Last edited by T1rippaman : 03-06-2006 at 02:50 PM.
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01-20-2006, 09:58 AM
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#2
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Baby Jesus FTW!!!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NOR*CHI
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Excellent informative post. Members please add more as you see fit. Please do not ask questions in this thread as we would like to keep this purely informational.
__________________
Romans 6:23
“God never promises to remove us from our struggles. He does promise, however, to change the way we look at them.”-Max Lucado
Well the thing I find most amazing
In amazing grace
Is the chance to give it out
Maybe that's what love is all about
The most he did was die for me, the least I can do is live for him.
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01-20-2006, 03:11 PM
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#3
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Dear god, the rabbits!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
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Black Dragun/M3 Dragunfire Compact Notes:
The run of the mill "What you can do to your Black Dragun"
The Black Dragun series marker, which Includes the Dragunfire Compact, Dragunfire High Compact, Dragunfire LCD Bottomline, Ect, Black Dragun Compact, and I'm Unsure of the Older M3's (But I belive, someone correct me if wrong) Patriot, Sniper, Ect.
T1 Kit: What was based on for the Black Dragun (BD) / Dragunfire / TES, this hard to find conversion allows you to turn your Compact Through TES into an Electropneumatic Marker. The comparable and still purchaseable Zip Kit which works on the same principal can be purchased here http://www.custompbsolutions.com/
TMK The BD/Dfire Is Spyder Valved, so you can also use the Madman Valve on it.
Random Notes: TES Triggerframes and Regulators will swap right on with no problems. You have the Same crazy possibilites as the TES/T1/Spyder owners when it comes to customizing your gun.
T1rippaman has already posted websites for bolts, the Dragun bolt section at alamocitypb.com has the M3 Bolt, with an offset hole for better flow and slightly lower OP.
Special Note: If your looking to change the feednecks, the Speedneck WILL work. However, It's slightly loose, so If you go that route, I suggest that you figure out some way to add in some bit of metal or hard object to keep it from shifting and you should be fine.
Please, If you need to correct it Go ahead and PM me so I can do so, or Add changes yourself.
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01-20-2006, 03:23 PM
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#4
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I Own You
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don't forget about the T1 frame move up mod, T1 ram mod or the acpb cup seals.
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01-20-2006, 03:25 PM
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#5
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I Own You
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oh and the T1 timmy baord mod
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01-20-2006, 05:57 PM
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#6
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Master Customizer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Westminster Co.
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DRAGUN AFTER MARKET GRIP MODDING:
I’ve been modding o3e grips for other people for a while now but no one seems to want to bother doing it their selves, or have the tools
they actually take more modding than the stickies and there the battery well you have to dig, there is no screw so u can see the battery popping out, but a small strip of double sided tape will fix that.
Instruction: (6 months in the process so be grateful I spent my life on this )
First you need to cut the center wrap around grip out so they become panels
Next you need to make a new/bigger sear well (for tes & drallion only)
Then you need to make a battery well that is almost 1cm deep on each side
Then you need to take off the top... funky spike? that pops out the back top of grip and also shave off the height on top
Then for the tes u may need to take off as much of the bottom so it will fit on the frame
Lastly you will need to grab some 600grit sandpaper and clean up the sear well, and parts of the grip that you cut off on the outside
oh yea, then you take all of the internals out if the grip frame that you can, put it in a wood vice, punch a starting drilling hole where you want the grips holes to go and drill your 6 holes, then go back and use the corresponding tap (4-40 tap set) then go to home depo or ace and pick up some 4-40 machine screws that are 1/2" long. you will need to cut off 4 for the screws so to fit in the frame the best 2 really small, 2 medium, and 2 that are uncut.
__________________
The fleas are hard to see and hit, watch your self.
Angel A4 FLY (cobalt)
ANS GX-3(green) dye swing and UL
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01-21-2006, 08:09 PM
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#7
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Dear god, the rabbits!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
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Powering Your Marker: This is Important Information Guy's, don't take it lightly
TES: Co2/HPA
Black Dragun: Co2/HPA (Co2 If it's got an X Chamber, HPA If it's got a Reg, Both if your using a Dragun Reg)
T1: HPA is really what you should choose (A/S Co2 Can/Should work, but be Wary, also, if planning to run Co2 Make sure you have a Co2 Friendly Regulator, IE a Palmers Stabilizer.)
Dragunfly : I belive they can run on Co2, I need someone to correct that. But an HPA IS recommended.
Drallion: It's an Autococker. HPA.
That should be Everything.
Last edited by Headshotted : 02-05-2006 at 07:04 PM.
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01-21-2006, 08:55 PM
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#8
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Tragic
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: chicagoish, IL
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Suction on a Blowback. (You can use these ideas to make your t1 have suction.)
A better way of describing how to install the rocket valve. (blowback)
Facktory Hack Mods
HOW TO MOVE UP YOUR GRIP FRAME:
Summary:
You stick a nut into the sear slot in the body. You have a new screw holding the front of the grip frame as well the VA. You hacksaw off the front of the grip frame. You drill a new hole in the grip frame for the screw to slid through to the VA.
Mounting the nut...
1st I dremmeled a nut little by little and tried to fit it in the sear slot. Once the nut gets just about in I try and jam it with my thumb as hard as possible. After it is barely stickin in the slot after i jam it in, I put it in a clamp and have the clamp do the work for me (jaming in the nut). But after you move up the frame you need to cut off the front of the frame because the reg/VA are in the way. You also need to drill a new hole for the front grip frame screw in the grip frame for the screw to slid in.
"Why not just use the existing front hole and have the nut farther back?"
-When you use the existing front hole the back hole is right in between the body and the sear slot, making it impossible to fit a nut there without doing a lot of more work.
The feel...
The problem I had with rails before I moved up the frame was that I didn't like how far the gun was from me. I want to feel that the gun is about 3" away from my nose. So I thought if I got a drop it would feel better...WRONG! So then I thought that if I moved up the frame I would still have that good support with the tank and have my nose about 3" away from the gun. It feels a lot better now that I did this mod. Plus this mod makes you tighter in the bunker since you are closer to your gun.
front grip frame screw goes into the new hole then into the VA hole in body. Front of frame cut off.
1: "front grip frame screw goes into the new hole then into the VA hole in body. Front of frame cut off."
2: Old front grip frame socket (not used anymore)
3: Valve set screw
4: Mounted nut
5: Old back grip frame socket (not used anymore)
3/4" goes into the VA
1/2" goes into nut
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02-01-2006, 02:22 PM
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#10
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Guest
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Main spring for T1 to be used with lightened ram.
"Goto your local hobby store ask for rear shock springs for an Associated 1/10th RC buggy (Team Associated part no 6478). These springs come in differtent wieghts and cost $2.50 for a pair. They fit perfect as a replacement. I have been using these for over a year now without any trouble."
-Factory Hack
http://www.lightninghobby.com/associ...53982_prd1.htm
they can also be found there
Last edited by flood187 : 02-14-2006 at 03:16 PM.
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02-01-2006, 02:57 PM
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#11
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ONCE GREAT, ALWAYS GREAT
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: GOOSECREEK, SC
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question..sorry if it doesnt belong here but ill delete it as soon as i get the answer. does the diode have to be that exact same one? can it be a paper clip or some sort of metal taht connects the two ports?
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02-01-2006, 04:42 PM
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#12
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Dear god, the rabbits!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
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Jumpering For The Simple Minded/Confused:
On a TES/T1 Board It looks like This:
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02-20-2006, 08:12 PM
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#13
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Guest
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i need new detents anyone know of someplace i can get some
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02-20-2006, 08:21 PM
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#14
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Dear god, the rabbits!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
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Cocker Detents, For the one Millionth time.
Draguns take HEXAGONAL COCKER DETENTS.
(Autococker Trilogy Style)
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02-21-2006, 03:58 PM
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#15
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Guest
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I need to replace my solenoid but when I buy the replacement how do I install it and what other parts do I need?
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02-21-2006, 04:17 PM
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#16
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Dear god, the rabbits!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
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No Other Parts, Exactly what his has, find the JDMoto Videos.
Well, Barbs Possibly.
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02-21-2006, 05:02 PM
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#17
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Tragic
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: chicagoish, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaPaintballer52353
i need new detents anyone know of someplace i can get some
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dragun custom built detent
kilaproducts.com
Last edited by qhimq : 09-09-2006 at 10:48 PM.
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03-08-2006, 03:18 PM
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#18
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one case one kill
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: the sticks, michigan
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Any brand Diablo Mongoose Bolt will fit the TES.
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05-07-2006, 11:43 PM
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#19
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Guest
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does anyone know the screw size for the va?
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05-19-2006, 02:32 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Aurburn, WA
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Do all cocker frames fit the Drallion. I am thinking about converting it all the way to a real cocker.
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05-19-2006, 02:43 PM
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#21
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BEO Mafia
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Maryland
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Yes, and the Drallion is already a REAL cocker. Unless your like me... In that case the only real cockers are mech...
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