Son practiced today with his 2012 Flame purchased may last year. Stock with LP poppit. Markers has about 25 cases through it without any consistency issues. Bolt/eyes get cleaned and a drop of tri flow on each Oring after each use. Only use Dow 55 and Tri Flow Ever.
Here was the problem. Shoots 1-2 fine next ball very little velocity. Next couple fine then another drop off.
Did at the field: Went to backup tank with SLP reg. No change.
Cleaned and applied drop of tri flow to bolt Orings. Cleaned and applied Dow 55 to ram. No Change.
Shot Backup Marker the rest of the day.
Home. Cleaned and lubed entire operating system of marker. Replaced Delrin Poppit and put back together. It was dark when I got it back together but just from setting pressures with tester there is already a change in how it shoots. Drop off is gone.
Just thought I post for others to see cause and effect.
Generally drop off issue is due to ram or regs orings. Seeing as you changed the ran orings at the field I would say it was your regs needing maintained.
Generally drop off issue is due to ram or regs orings. Seeing as you changed the ran orings at the field I would say it was your regs needing maintained.
Yes did both HPR and LPR. I changed the poppit due to the shoulder wear. Even though it wasn't leaking it was almost to the point one of my past G6Rs that started leaking.
Its miss firing or dropping off. Started last week at practice but shot perfectly at a tournament the week prior.
Still having trouble with the G6R. Under sustained PSP firing it keeps dropping off intermittently. Poppit and spring are fine. Just went through it again looking for anything obvious. Pressures set to qc card and then lurker method. Still an issue.
I'm not liking how the Hpr piston travels inside the housing. Feels rough. New Oring and Dow 55 of course. After cleaning surfaces of piston and inside of housing it doesn't have any scratches or scarring. Looks fine.
This is the first of 6 G6Rs that I've encountered the problem with.
Getting a team members g6r tonight and do some parts swapping to see if the issue remains.
Make sure to set the all board settings to factory. The bip or bolt delay being at a incorrect settings can cause issues.
Quick question? We've never changed any dwell bip delay settings ever. Just changed modes for PSP and semi. Still think resetting could help?
Thanks for the insight.
Quick question? We've never changed any dwell bip delay settings ever. Just changed modes for PSP and semi. Still think resetting could help?
Thanks for the insight.
Worth a try, it's not like it only takes 5 seconds to do.
But now that I watched the video on my computer instead of my phone, it sounds as if the LPR pressure is to low or you need to replace the rear ram oring. I would also check the hose going to the rear of the marker from the solenoid and make sure that isn't pinched and that the barb is in all the way.
Yeah the reset did not help. Turning the marker upside down or even on its side changes the pitch . Ill go through it and change the rear ram Oring etc and see what I get. Thank you sir for the help.
I'm am getting the other G6r back tonight to swap some parts to try.
Ok I got the other g6r. Swapped lpr then the Hpr and the bolt separately with no change at all. The other g6r shoots money and has no problem at all. Pressures are within a couple psi from each other on the qc cards but the flame will not even shoot. The black 2011 shoots right on.
So I went back to the hp poppit. No change. Only thing I have left is possibly the solenoid. But for the life of me can't come to the possibility that its bad since the marker cycles.
There has been 2 occasions tonight where in PSP the gun kept shooting with out the trigger being pulled.
Surprised me! Fortunately I had a NIB Solenoid in my Spares!
Thanks for the help Gamer. I appreciate you taking the time for advice. That's why I spend time here. Hopefully my troubles can be reviewed by others just in case they have similar issues.
The noid might just be gunked up, have you torn it down for cleaning?
Probably good to have a spare anyway but you might be able to save $80 if it's just dirt
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This line is in remembrance of Jared Wilson, friend and paintball teammate who died on 7/27/2005. My Old Feedback +1/-0 | CCM T2 | OLED G6R | Entertaining Offers for either/both
The noid might just be gunked up, have you torn it down for cleaning?
Probably good to have a spare anyway but you might be able to save $80 if it's just dirt
Never actually had one apart. Was on zdspb site looking on how to service it late last night. Will probably disassemble this week and service it for future use.
Never actually had one apart. Was on zdspb site looking on how to service it late last night. Will probably disassemble this week and service it for future use.
There are diagrams in the stickies that can illustrate the process. Be careful opening it up. It's very easy to lose one of the pins.
Yeah it's not really that hard just be very careful in the middle section where those magnetic pins are. I would do it on a tech mat or something similar so stuff doesn't roll away. Other than the small pins in the middle there's nothing too hard about it. I took my RL Marq's noid apart at the field once (which was a terrible idea. Don't do that).
Also when you regrease the piston don't use Dow 55. Use a very thin coat of Dow 33 or else you're just going to gunk the noid back up.
__________________
This line is in remembrance of Jared Wilson, friend and paintball teammate who died on 7/27/2005. My Old Feedback +1/-0 | CCM T2 | OLED G6R | Entertaining Offers for either/both
I meandered my way through the solenoid. Really not sure what I was looking at. I followed the how to from zdspb and reassembled. Didn't see anything that would be an issue but the noid is back together and I put it in my spares.
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