[KINGKILLA21]

Yeah but if i lower the operating pressure will that lower the velocity? And its the stock springs

[Opteron-O3]

Yeah lowering the operating pressure will lower the velocity.

[ferret15]

The nob the back of the gun you adjust is for FINE tuning. It doesn't change your Pressure, its for day to day chrono checks and shouldn't be adjust +/- 15 at most. Any more and your probably need to fix something.

The regulator and FPS are tied together in the sense your juggling 2 different function. Turn your reg up until your reach FPS. This is your Operating Pressure. If its any other number other than 280fps than your out of balance and its just a pressure. The marker will recock at 200fps but that doesn't mean its at operational pressure. With the RS the springs are actually what you want for a spyder like your. A kit is cheap so if you want go ahead and play with them. You could throw a lighter spring, but probably need more pressure. You could throw a heavier spring and need less pressure, but recocks and it will loud a ****. If the valve springs are any heavier, You probably will need 400psi get the gun to re-cock, but you'll just be sippin on air.

The RS valve body could be upgrade if your want. Call up Kingman and order the "EKO" valve body from the fenix, Direct fit and easy fit, and should give you a drop in pressure. The RS valve pin can be re-used, but basically the new valve has better flow out the back so you don't need as much air to re cock. You might be able to sneak a lighter spring in because of that and lower the pressure, the idea would be less recoil, and softer hit on the ball. you'll still probably be above 300psi, but its a start. To add to this any spyder DIY"valve body mods" still apply if your willing risk trashing the valve.

[KINGKILLA21]

Okay can you explain how to tune my gun? Im still fuzzy on the whole concept, what i did was had my operating pressure at 300 and I cranked that back screw in untill it **** 250 at the chrono but it was shooting hard and breaking paint so obv i did it wrong

[ItalianCustom]

Also remember, having the lowest pressure also doesnt equal the most effecient.....

[Opteron-O3]

The best way to tune in my opinion and I've had great results. Turn the back screw all the way out. I do mean all the way out so there isn't any added tension via back screw. Now tune your marker via regulator until you hit the desired fps and leave it alone! In my opinion you should never touch the back screw because yes it'll raise fps but it'll also increase how hard the bolt hits the ball. Equalling more ball breakage.

[KINGKILLA21]

So then wouldnt my operating pressure be at like 600 instead if 300?.... And im not all too worried about efficiency as its pretty efficient and I carry around 3 tanks lol

[Opteron-O3]

Hold up... Doesn't the RS have a VS Valve???

[mnkywitagun]

i highly doubt thats why your getting barrel breaks. more often it is the paint itself....What paint were you using? was it freezing cold? or brittle paint to begin with then combined with cold temps makes the gelatin capsules very brittle. Spyders work best with rec-grade paintballs. Even a stock spyder operating at 750 psi will not break paint. The RS comfortably operates at 325-400 psi. at 280-300 fps. The differnece is not that noticeable if your trying to reach say 275 psi operating pressure. The marker is so darn heavy it minimises the kick.

[mnkywitagun]

yes opty the RS has a higher flow valve that was later used in the 09 electras. it is not the balance valve. The valve was basically what spyder owners were doing long before with the NDZ valve, with the larger openings and smaller valve stem, combined with a valve and main spring combination that allowed it to operate at a 'lower" pressure,

[KINGKILLA21]

It was cold yeah but thats not why and no it was Nice thick shelled rec paint, also the screw in the back of the gun had to be turned almost all the way in to get it shooting 250, as soon as i did that i could feel and hear that it was shooting alot harder and since then i broke paint like crazy

[KINGKILLA21]

So whats the method for tuning my gun? To get it shooting as smooth as possible and efficient as possible? I know its a combination of tuning the reg with the velocity screw

[Opteron-O3]

Originally Posted by KINGKILLA21

So whats the method for tuning my gun? To get it shooting as smooth as possible and efficient as possible? I know its a combination of tuning the reg with the velocity screw

You want it to shoot how you would personally like it. I perfer to shoot my marker with accuracy and efficiency in mind. I don't like to shoot over 12bps but I do like to have speed available when I need it. I like to one ball my way down the field lol.

[KINGKILLA21]

Originally Posted by Opteron-O3

You want it to shoot how you would personally like it. I perfer to shoot my marker with accuracy and efficiency in mind. I don't like to shoot over 12bps but I do like to have speed available when I need it. I like to one ball my way down the field lol.

Well im usually only shooting à few at a time but I like being able to shoot ropes if i need to, i just need to fine tune it so its smooth and accurate and efficient i guess

[mnkywitagun]

were the balls that were breaking a good fit for the barrel ?.. too tight or mishapened and you could break them. if everything being stock as far as springs go. i would set the reg pressure at 350 psi. with the back adjuster 1/4 of the way in. (more away from marker that towards the marker) and see what type of velocity you get. This why i love to have my own personal chrono. it makes backyard tinkering so much easier. you should be at the 230-275 range. if on low side increase reg 50 psi at a time to see increase in velocity.

[KINGKILLA21]

But if i use the reg to adjust the velocity wont that make my operating pressure High enough to have alot of kick and not be efficient? Or is it the spring in the velocity adjustment part that makes the gun kick?

[Opteron-O3]

There's a lot of variable that are involved. First what you need to do is clean your marker completely. Lube/oil and reassemble. Once you've completed that gas up the marker. Check your velocity adjuster and make sure it's all the way out. Out enough where there is no tension affecting the spring and hammer. Now (a chrono is recommended) set your psi according to the manual specs. Once you're there shoot and see what the velocity is at. Tune accordingly from there.

Originally Posted by KINGKILLA21

But if i use the reg to adjust the velocity wont that make my operating pressure High enough to have alot of kick and not be efficient? Or is it the spring in the velocity adjustment part that makes the gun kick?

That's not entirely true. Yes a high operating pressure can cause kick to rise but efficiency has the potential to be really nice. It'll all depend on your setup (regulator, barrels, paint, paint to barrel match, hpa/co2, internals). Correct me if I'm wrong but does the RS have an eko valve? If that's true I believe they are rated, in stock form, to operate at around 600psi. Which is about right because if you were to read in otterscustoms long long long ago. between 300-800psi if you were to tune your spyder within those psi ranges you'd have a very efficient spyder. You'd have some kick like you currently do, but it SHOULD have great efficiency.

Now, with what you're saying you want efficiency and lower psi. You CAN achieve that but you have to keep in mind you don't always want to achieve a lower psi because it can hinder efficiency too. This is a stack tube blowback . It NEEDS some air in order to operate efficient and also reliable.

From the looks of the valve (I have a Spyder Fenix on the way so I hope to be able to tinker with the EKO valve as well) you should be able to use the NDZ Valve Pin in place of the stock one.(It seems NDZ Valve Pin are extremely hard to find in stock now a days but I was able to look for a replacement that could achieve the same unless you're willing to modify your own. Links on bottom of post) You'll achieve higher flow thus allowing to lower the pressure and quite possibly keep your efficiency. With higher flow you'll want a lower dwell in order to keep efficiency high since there is more air flowing into the marker. If you have a spring kit handy I'd recommend using a weak main spring so that the hammer is able to easily recock using the lower pressure and allow you to have the less kick, lower pressure, and efficiency that you're looking for. This is how I usually tune my markers and I have great success doing so. Of course others have their way of tuning and they are also successful doing so.

9 Piece Spring Kit
High Flow Valve Pin

I hope all this makes sense lol.

[KINGKILLA21]

No its not the eko valve, and 300-800?! Lol damn! Thats alot of great info ill give it a go, ps the manual says to have ut operating at 300 psi, and when you say tune accordingly do you mean tune the reg or velocity adjuster? And should i keep the reg at 300 or raise it like others said?

[Opteron-O3]

Only adjust the regulator. Don't mess with the spring adjuster(imo).

[KINGKILLA21]

Okay so just leave the spring adjuster all the way out? I just dont want the Bolt hitting so hard its breaking paint will turning up the reg cause this?

[Opteron-O3]

Turning up the reg shouldn't cause this. It's the tension on the spring. No matter what the bolt will hit the ball according to the spring not the air. Now if the ball breaks due to high pressure that's probably due to the air being high enough that when the ball makes contact with the barrel it breaks.