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Old 04-01-2004, 08:26 AM #22
harpo568 (Banned)
 
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NO bleaching black ,smoke,or previously factory dyed shells will not work.
yes it works great on stickies
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:42 AM #23
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Sweet, Im gonna try a black yellow fade for my new Cyborg.
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Old 04-01-2004, 05:13 PM #24
Lunch__Box89
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im going to dye my talon and fuse lacrosse stick

Last edited by Lunch__Box89 : 04-01-2004 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 04-06-2004, 04:29 PM #25
Jeezalex
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I'm trying to dye speed caps forr 10 round tubes. They are currently orange. They are a fairly soft plastic. Not quite as hard the standard green 10 ball caps. The thing is, I want to dye 100 of them. Would I be better off using a shallow bucket and just setting them on the bottom (so that i dont have to suspend all 100) or would that not dye the whole cap?
Thanks alot
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Old 04-06-2004, 05:15 PM #26
Lunch__Box89
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why dont you put them in a large strainer in the bottom of the bucket that way you can just pull out the strainer and have all of them in the strainer move it around a bit to so they dont get green where they where sitting together
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:51 PM #27
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the problem with letting it settle at the bottom is that it will start to mold to the bottom of the bucket, and get all deformed and stick to the bottom.
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:25 PM #28
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why would they form to the bottom? We are using hot water, but it's not like we're melting them or anything, right? And then, if I hang them by something, will there be a little line where the string was?
also, im going to dye them blue, will the orange accept the color well?

All help is appreciated. Thanks
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Old 04-07-2004, 08:07 PM #29
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i'm not sure if i'm right or not, but the bottom of the bucket would get very hot, and i just wouldn't risk it, and go through the two minutes to prepare a stick and string. not that hard and worth it.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:35 PM #30
Lunch__Box89
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BLUEWAVE do you have any pics of the lacrosse sticks you have done thanks
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:10 PM #31
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ill take some tommorow and sendthem to you, waht's your email address?
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:32 PM #32
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ne14ex@hotmail.com thanks
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:34 PM #33
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can i see some pics?

hey funky munky.. i was wondering if you could send me those pics you said you have. my email is ski2desu@comcast.net. thanks man
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Old 04-12-2004, 05:47 PM #34
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I actually need to take some pics of the assembled hopper... I'll get back to ya. Peace. --Funk
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:10 AM #35
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guys i been trying to do the procees for some evoII shells and i have warme dthe stove and everything and they are not getiing dyed if anyone can help please tell me im using tintex dye
i managed to do it it worked fine il post my whole experience in my site soon.so il post the link

Last edited by bunker17 : 04-16-2004 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:14 PM #36
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ill paint the shells and the paint will not flake off anyone interested in painted shells they look nice??
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:26 PM #37
neo71665
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Do not use Rit denim Blue to dye a revvy blue. Comes out purple, I still like it though.
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Old 04-18-2004, 09:45 PM #38
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ok, i've got my whole setup done. What color blue should I use to cover up the orange? A navy blue? I'm lookin for it to come out as more of an electric/royal blue.
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Old 04-18-2004, 10:12 PM #39
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I suggest using a real light shade. Just watch how long you soak it. You can always go a lil darker shade, its hard to lighten it up.
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Old 04-23-2004, 12:05 AM #40
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Thanks Harpo and FunkMonkey, Great stuff!
I gave dying a try myself, and here is what I learned:
I did two different projects, both were Evo shells (they are hard plastic).
I thoroughly cleaned the parts. First with alcohol to clean off the sticker goo, and then with hot water and detergent to get rid of any oily residue. Do this even to new parts.
My first attempt was with red. I put one bottle of Rit dye into a pot of really hot tap water and gave the parts a soak for about 1/2 hour. Nothing. Maybe a little tinge of pink in the crevices.
Next I tried two bottles of red, and one of wine color. I wanted a dark red, so I figured the wine color would give it a puplish tint.
I added the second and third bottles to the already hot tap water, and this time, I put it on a burner to begin heating it up more.
After about 10 minutes, I checked it, and it really wasn't getting any darker. I was begining to wonder if the hard plastic was gonna take the color.
Next, I brought it up to a boil, and continually checked for color.
After two hours, I was satisfied with the color, and gave all the parts a dunk into the bucket of cold water I had standing by.
Now I was excited. The color came out just the way I wanted. Kind of a dark, purplish red.
By the way, I did all of this OUTSIDE on a camp stove, and still managed to stain a portion of my concrete patio.
Next color was Yellow. I was skeptical that the light color would take, given the amount of effort it took to dye red.
I went right to using one bottle, plus two more packets of yellow (they were out of yellow bottles).
Put those in the pot, and brought it to a boil, then added the parts.
Amazingly, it took less time to color these parts to the desired shade- about an hour. Maybe it was the powdered dye.
The yellow one matches my Gold Bushy almost perfectly. I couldn't be happier with the results.
I should mention that I didn't use wires or strings or anything like that. Just dropped 'em right into boiling dye, and gave 'em a stir every now and then.
The parts didn't melt, or stick to the bottom, or anything bad like that.
The pot I used was my stainless steel pot that I use for boiling crabs and steaming chicken. When I was done, I just cleaned it with some clorox bleach, and it was good as new.
The two hoppers wre re-assembled, and look really great.
The red one is on a black Bushy with a red freak tip, and looks awsome.
The yellow one on my gold Bushy is definately a head turner.
I can't wait until the next tourney to show off these two!

EDIT: I just tried dying a Halo hopper. It is made out of Polycarbonite like an egg. It even says so in the manual, so I dyed it just like my egg.

DO NOT, I REPEAT; DO NOT PUT YOUR HALO HOPPER LID IN BOILING WATER!

Just found out the hard way that the lid is a different material. It took the dye really fast, and totaly warped it out of shape!
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Last edited by acidrain : 05-27-2004 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 04-23-2004, 09:09 AM #41
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fantastic!
glad it worked out for you...doing polycarbonates like the evo shells does take quite a bit more heat and time.
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:34 PM #42
Captian Kill A Ho
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Does anyone know if you can DYE DELRIN BOLTS?????????
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