[melkson]

I'm making this thread for common Raptor Problems and Fixes. If you need help, and the answer is not already in here, please post a seperate thread and i'll be more than happy to help!

[melkson]

Problem #1

My Raptor leaks down the barrel

This is the most common Raptor issue. Air RUSHING down the barrel when the tank is screwed in.

90% of the time this is caused by the Valve being damaged (usually by dry firing, but also by having the Raptor velocity turned up too high)

An easy to see if this is your problem is to push your cocking knob forward (twoard the barrel). If it goes forward, the springs back, this may not be your problem. If it will not go forward, you most likley have a damaged valve.

- If it does go forward, but still leaks down the barrel (usually a slow leak), it's most likley a cupseal problem, or the valve lip is damaged. You will have to inspect the lip of the valve for nicks. If the valve looks fine, then you may just need a new cupseal. Also don't forget to check the o-rings on the valve. if they are worn or damaged, this may cause a slow leak down the barrel.

- If it does NOT go forward, you still need to remove your valve. Most likley the valve stem will be stuck in the valve, and will be very hard to remove. I've found that twisting clockwise while pulling will usually remove it. Twisting counter-clockwise can actually twist the cupseal right off the valve stem.
Now if you don't have a spare valve, or want to repair your valve, it's not too hard. the small hole in the center of the valve face will need to be slightly enlarged . I've used a small drill bit, and shaved a SMALL amount of brass by twirling the bit with my fingers inside the hole. Once the valve pin cas sinde in the hole with no friction, your valve should be repaired! Just re-assemble, and play safe!

[melkson]

Problem #2

My Raptor fires once, then either 'farts' (Braapppppp), or just doesn't recock.

Ok, this is a more complex problem, as it can have many causes.

First off, make sure your tank isn't low. If there is not enough pressure, this will always happen. A regulator turned up too high will also cause this. While it's possible to make a Low Pressure (LP) Raptor, just reducing the input pressure will not do it.

One common cause of this is just a dirty marker. Gummy paint, dirt, etc can increase friction, and prevent the Raptor from re-cocking. Totally taking the Raptor apart and cleaning it is a great first diagnostic tool, and always makes your Raptor feel special. Make sure you oil it up, and check thise o-rings, especially the hammer o-ring. If this is damaged or missing, then some of the re-cock gas will bypass the hammer, and can cause it to fail to re-cock.

Another problem is worn sear or hammer. This is the second most common cause of long-term Raptor failure, as sears are no longer made, and I don't believe any aftrmarket ones were made. The good news is that it's possible to repair a sear with a little patience and a dremmel (better with a mill though). I'll cover repairing a sear in a seperate thread.
If the notch in the hammer is chipped near the back of the hammer, you simply need to replace the hammer. They aren't hard to find, and can be found in the Raptor Rebuild kit. A common cause of the hammer being chipped is if your velocity is too high.

[melkson]

Problem #3

My Raptor is chopping paint or double feeding

Ok, while not as common as other Raptor problems, this can be a problem, but has a few easy fixes.

First off, check those detents. If you use a plastic detent, make sure it's there, and the 'arm' isn't worn off. This is a common occurance if you are using an aftermarket bolt that doesn't have a 'notch' in the side for the detent arm. In both these cases, it's time to put a new detent in there.
If it's a wire detent and not bent in enough, it will allow double feeds. GENTLY bent the center of the wire just a little bit, and see if this helps. If you over bend it, you will have the following problem:
If it's a wire detent and bent in too far, it may nick or slice the paintball, causing it to possible rupture when fired. To make matters worse, this may only happen to a small percentage of the paint you fire, making this a hard problem to diagnose. The usual rule is that the detent wire should be straight.

Ok, assuming it's not a detent, it may be 'chopping'. Actually this is a fairly common problem with Raptors that are cranked up (hot) as the hammer travlels quite a way back. If the hammer is going too far back, this can cause damage to the Raptor body (back of the cocking slot), and lead to broken linkpins and cocking knobs.
The good news is there is an simple fix for this. It's called the 'Anti Double feed mod'. This is NOT the same as the 'Pink Eraser mod' which should NOT be used (it breaks link pins).

Anti Double Feed Mod:
(pics will be aded tonight)
What you need is a piece of tubing 1/2" OD. I've had good luck with clear nylon air tubing from fish stores.
(pic1)

Simply cut a piece off about 1/2" long
(pic2)

Slide this over your hammer spring, inside the body and screw the plug back in. This will act as a bumper to reduce the rearward travel of the hammer, both reducing double feeds, and protecting the body from being struck by the hammer.
(pic3)

-NOTE: if the piece of tubing is too long, it will prevent the Raptor from cocking, or sometimes just re-cocking. Simply trim a little off, and you should be fine. You won't even be able to see the mod while the Raptor is in use.

[melkson]

Problem #4

When I fire, the ball just rolls out the barrel, or travels just a few feet!

Well, this isn't a very common problem, but can stem from 2 basic things.

First, does the Raptor re-cock when this happens? If it doesn't, you should see problem #3, and of course, check those tanks. If it does re-cock, check below.

Ususally when this happens, it's from a broken link pin. This is a somewhat common mechanical problem with first generation Raptors, as they has a thin link pin. Later models had a thicker pin that rarley broke. So, just remove the rear large plug, and see if the bolt will just slide out. If it does, you pin is toast, and you need a replacment. This is another part that is available in the Raptor repair kit. BE AWARE - if you have first generation internals, you will need more than a 2nd generation link pin. You will also need 2nd generaton hammer and cocking knob.

Now, the second thing that can cause this is an easy fix. Some Raptor bolts have an air hole drilled through the bolt top to bottom. Other Raptor bolts, especially aftermarket bolts only have one hole for the air to flow from the valve to the bolt face. If these bolts are in up-side down, the marker will fire, and the ball may just go a little distance. Hey, it's even happened to me. Flip the bolt over, and that's it!

[melkson]

Problem #5

My Raptor seems to work fine, but I can't get it to chrono high enough

Ok, so the Raptor fires, re-cocks, and feeds great, but can't get it to chrono high enough, huh? No fear, we'll help you through that too.

Dirty internals can increase friction. If the hammer (or bolt) has too much drag, it won't hit the valve pin hard enough, and can result in low speeds. When in doubt, clean it out (hey, can't hurt).

Usually this is caused by a weakened main spring. Leaving the Raptor cocked while stored can compress the main spring, and greatly reduce velocity. While you CAN try to re-stretch the main spring, I've seen too many made into slinkies this way, and don't suggest it. Instead, try shimming the main spring by putting small washers on the spring guide rod. If you have a space spacer from a rebuild kit, this works great too.
Of course just replacing the spring works great. Some Spyder springs will fit the hammer just fine.

Now an unusual cause of this is if you put the wrong plug on the back. The plug with the hex fitting is for the hammer (rear). If the rear small plug has no hex fitting, you have them backwards. Swap them and you should be fine.

[melkson]

Raptor FAQ / Tech specs

Lubricants I've used:
Hoppe's #9 with Weatherguard (this is a gun oil)
Pneumatic air tool oil (1 quart is like $2 at walmart) - my favorite
Tippmanns paintball oil (came free with my A5)

My favorite for cleaning off gooey paintball residue:
Hand sanitizer that has alcohol in it, and a coffie filter. Works better than you think!
Remember, this will strip the oil right out of the marker, oil WELL afterworks. Also, some cleaning agents may damage o-rings.

ASA threading in the body of a Raptor is 1/2-20 left hand (reverse).

[glaman5266]

Absolutely fantastic. Great troubleshooting guide.

[stubborn]

do u know where i can find upgrades for the gun?

[bengals6547884]

Alright I think it is my valve that is the problem because I can't push it forward but now I need to know how to fix it. I don't want to spend money though. I don't know how to get the valve out of the gun also.

[Fubarius]

To get the valve out of the gun, first take out the bolt and hammer (depending on year of gun either use the cocking rod or spring guide to pull the linkage pin out of the top of the gun). Next, take off the grip frame. On the bottom of the body there is a set screw. This holds the valve in place. Take it out and push the valve out the BACK of the body by sticking a plastic rod in the front of the gun and pushing. Don't use a metal screwdriver. A broken clothes hanger or straight shot squeegee works perfectly.

Press the valve pin out and carefully drill or file the hole in the dented face of the valve until the pin can move smoothing. Brass is soft, so it doesn't take much work to fix it. I've fixed them at the field using a sharp pocket knife.

[wheeler687]

My Raptor with your little guide here will now at least do single shot, and I don't know what part of the system the hammer is to look and see if its damaged to see if that is the cause of it not recocking. So I was wonderin if you could go a little more in depth on that

[melkson]

the hammer is the grey steel piece the cocking knob screws into, and the big spring pushes on.

if your raptor is just doing single shot, check hammer o-rings and bolt o-rings. if they are missing, distorted or too dirty this can be a cause.

[wheeler687]

Well I got the valve to work, so it wouldn't blow air through the barrel, then it decided not to let me shoot multiple times. The hammer is fine, there are no nics in it whatsoever it just wont recock would going through and greasing everything fix it? its lubed but not to the best extent.

[Fubarius]

Oil...not grease. Grease is too thick and sticky, slows down the action preventing the hammer form hitting the valve properly.

Paintball gun oil, Air tool oil, Hoppes No. 9 gun oil (NOT the solvent), Automatic transmission fluid, or mineral oil should do the trick.

[FuzzyFootFungus]

Yes Second Fubarius.

[RaulSilva531]

I have a stock raptor silver eagle and I was wondering if there is anyway to change how it shoots like 1 shot, 2 shots, and 3 shots?

[bshiflett]

Just took my 1443 apart for cleaning and forgot to note how the valve body sits in the receiver. Does the flat part face the hammer or the barrel? Also does the little hole face up or down? I couldn't tell on the diagram because you can't see the hole or the lip on the valve with the angle.

[melkson]

lip faces front, hole is high.

[logan k]

hello i have the first problem, but everthing looks fine. but all the gas literly rushes out of the barrel when i hook it up. please help

[RIIPII]

How do you fix the raptor sear with a dremmel?