[tipsyfry]

First of all let me say that I love this gun. The feel, the shot, the accuracy.. it's great.

A couple of concerns I have including the eyes. When I look into the chamber only 1 Eye is lit, not sure if this is supposed to be that way or not. They seem to be functioning fine I just find this odd.

Paint handling. It doesn't seem to handle it THAT well. I've heard others say it is the softest gun on paint they've ever owned, I don't think this is the case for me. I'm over boring thanks to tiny Valken Fate and the stock .685 insert. Any suggestions?

Will all of my settings reset if I swap battery? (running the stock Chinese cheapo)

Pretty inconsistent. Seems to be kind of all over the place at sometimes. This could be due to paint/bore match, I'm not sure. +/- 15ish.

I cleaned out the hpr and it seemed to be what I would consider over greased so I wiped that down cleaned relubed and have yet to test that out.

Valve o-ring has a lot of friction with the bolt. Maybe this has something to do with consistency/paint handling? Tried swapping to a 13 urethane and had a leak down the barrel. I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I have upped dwell to 15 and swapped the bumper o-ring. All suggestions/tips/input is welcome. How is everyone else liking their C5's so far? Thank you for your time.

SETUP

C5 With shift 2 @ .685
-Dwell 15
-Bolt Delay 10
-Eye Delay 15
Spire 260 (lowest tension)
68/45 Ninja pro v2 @ 450psi

[jdirish7]

To answer your eye question only one is suppose to be lit up. One is the sender and the other is the receiver. I would definitely change your battery as well. That will definitely make it shot better and no the settings won't reset.

[aarospoon13]

I'll try to cover this from my phone as best as I can:

1. Its a send receive eye system. One will never be lit while the other is.

2. I'm leaning towards your paint and bore as well. More likely your paint? Not sure about Valken Fate paint. Also, see my point below on your battery.

3. Your settings will not reset. Change out the Novacall Ultra battery ASAP! Many things that don't feel "right" will be solved.

4. Your consistency is probably very closely related to crap battery. If its brand new, you'll see a difference after a case or so.

5. They did cake on the lube on the HPR. No real issues there. I did the same as you but still lubed it liberally (not as excessively though)

6. The valve oring will have a lot of friction with the bolt. That's ok. Lube it properly and all will be well. You can't drop the oring size, but if you're a stickler you could try finding the smallest of the right sizes oring. I tried the same thing you did with the same result. Its meant to make a strong seal.

7. My favorite to shoot, and that's after having 34 in the past year. Look at some of the other "new clone 5" posts and you'll see me echo it. Its my favorite of all the things my other high ends only did one or two things best at. I actually dropped my dwell to 14.5 recently after putting a few cases through mine, bringing it a tiny bit closer to stock. I'm a fan of small changes, test, repeat until optimal settings found.


Enjoy your clone bud. Its a great piece of paint slinging awesomeness.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by jdirish7

To answer your eye question only one is suppose to be lit up. One is the sender and the other is the receiver. I would definitely change your battery as well. That will definitely make it shot better and no the settings won't reset.

Thank you! Will change the battery ASAP.

Originally Posted by aarospoon13

I'll try to cover this from my phone as best as I can:

1. Its a send receive eye system. One will never be lit while the other is.

2. I'm leaning towards your paint and bore as well. More likely your paint? Not sure about Valken Fate paint. Also, see my point below on your battery.

3. Your settings will not reset. Change out the Novacall Ultra battery ASAP! Many things that don't feel "right" will be solved.

4. Your consistency is probably very closely related to crap battery. If its brand new, you'll see a difference after a case or so.

5. They did cake on the lube on the HPR. No real issues there. I did the same as you but still lubed it liberally (not as excessively though)

6. The valve oring will have a lot of friction with the bolt. That's ok. Lube it properly and all will be well. You can't drop the oring size, but if you're a stickler you could try finding the smallest of the right sizes oring. I tried the same thing you did with the same result. Its meant to make a strong seal.

7. My favorite to shoot, and that's after having 34 in the past year. Look at some of the other "new clone 5" posts and you'll see me echo it. Its my favorite of all the things my other high ends only did one or two things best at. I actually dropped my dwell to 14.5 recently after putting a few cases through mine, bringing it a tiny bit closer to stock. I'm a fan of small changes, test, repeat until optimal settings found.


Enjoy your clone bud. Its a great piece of paint slinging awesomeness.

1. Thanks!

2. That's kind of what I was thinking. Paint is meh, decent shape.. relatively brittle for the price. I like the Empire Heat that we shoot at a different field better.

3. Will do!

4. I bought brand new, probably only 3-4 cases on her so far. Battery, yes.. got it, check! Haha

5. Mine definitely was lubed when I pulled it out. I didn't re-lube too heavily so we'll see how that affects consistency.

6. I thought I remembered some people, maybe imped, experimenting with different sizes and the best fit seemed to be a hand checked 14. Mine is stiff yes, don't have many others to test but as I mentioned.. if it aint broke dont fix it!

7. Cool! People seem to either love them or hate them. It's definitely not the smoothest quietest gone i've shot (my buddys tuned axe actually is smoother and quieter) but I still find it a very pleasing marker to play with. It will be nice to become more comfortable with is as well as get it fully broken in. Hopefully that will help it become more of the workhorse that it has proven to be for many others!

[safariguy5]

Yeah, if you need to size down, change the bolt bumper O-ring to an 012 and up the dwell a little. Solved all my bolt stick issues with the 014 I had.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by safariguy5

Yeah, if you need to size down, change the bolt bumper O-ring to an 012 and up the dwell a little. Solved all my bolt stick issues with the 014 I had.

O ya that was done before I even aired it up, thanks!

[imped4now]

Bump your eye delay up another 5-10 ms. I have yet to break a ball with a modern MacDev marker (two Clone 5s and a Cyborg 6) after a combined ~20 cases running the eye delay maxed out. The Clone has a tremendously low amount of force behind it, just stick your finger in the breach and pull the trigger.... You'll see.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

Bump your eye delay up another 5-10 ms. I have yet to break a ball with a modern MacDev marker (two Clone 5s and a Cyborg 6) after a combined ~20 cases running the eye delay maxed out. The Clone has a tremendously low amount of force behind it, just stick your finger in the breach and pull the trigger.... You'll see.

I think I'm just gonna max it out. I run 10.2bps so I'm sure with the spire and all maxed eye delay should cause no problems. Can't go wrong with the little safety net there anyways.

I seem to get a decent amount of breaks, the stuff I'm shooting is pretty brittle usually. Although I can't really tell exactly how much I'm breaking or if and when. Getting back into the sport and haven't really been able to slow the game down in my mind yet. Crazy adrenaline and everything is happening so fast. Gotta love it.

Haha I might have to try that out but I'll take your word for it! Last time I did it after I put a lurker bolt in my invert mini, it didn't go so well!

[imped4now]

The Axe has much more force behind the bolt due to more area and higher pressure, despite the very nicely controlled bolt speed. I think you'll be shocked at how gentle it is on the Clone. Max the eye delay out, you're exactly right about it being a safety net. We're no longer trying to shoot 20+ bps, use all the insurance you can.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

The Axe has much more force behind the bolt due to more area and higher pressure, despite the very nicely controlled bolt speed. I think you'll be shocked at how gentle it is on the Clone. Max the eye delay out, you're exactly right about it being a safety net. We're no longer trying to shoot 20+ bps, use all the insurance you can.

Will do, and most definitely!

imped, what conclusion have you come to about o-rings? I think I remember reading about your Arsenal and experimentation which concluded in using strictly buna x70 duro.. has that changed?

Also what about bolt delay? Have you experimented with that at all?

Thanks!

[imped4now]

Nope, stick to 70 duro buna. I've just been running the dwell at 15 ms, again with FSDO settings disabled.

Bolt delay 10 ms. Max out the eye delay. It's been super reliable.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

Nope, stick to 70 duro buna. I've just been running the dwell at 15 ms, again with FSDO settings disabled.

Bolt delay 10 ms. Max out the eye delay. It's been super reliable.

Will do! I'm running FSDO of +1 dwell @ 10 seconds, although I'm not even sure if it needs it or not. I will mess with this after I finish playing a small tournament tomorrow.

This will be the first time playing with it since upping the bolt delay, I suppose I did that for no reason also but we will see if it affects anything.

Even with all of my "gripes" in the OP I'm not even worried a little bit about this thing being a solid shooter for me tomorrow. After using it I'll report back and let everyone know how I felt it performed with all of the subtle changes I made.

Thanks all!

[imped4now]

Report back. You should not need any FSDO settings to be active.

[tipsyfry]

Well unfortunately there was a "leak"/puff of air coming from the solenoid or grip frame area every shot. The bolt wouldn't fully cycle, I was panicking and unfortunately ended up playing with the mini for all but one game.

I was thinking oh great, somethings up with the solenoid.. but I just upped the dwell slightly (I don't think this was necessary), reverted bolt delay to stock, wiped off some lube, and swapped the #16 o-ring on the bolt (pretty sure this is all I had to do to solve my problem).

After those changes it shot great, absolutely no bolt stick or FSDO. Steady stream of paint, solid consistency +/-5, and most importantly to me not 1 single barrel break (shooting valken graffiti).

Definitely wish I could have played with it more but o'well. I've got quite a bit of extra paint so I'll have to put it through a test at home!

[imped4now]

Your problem obviously wasn't eye delay-related, nor do I think it was dwell-related if you were already running around 15ms. The factory orings do seem to have issues....I swapped everything out with quality orings I have. But at least you could see how it should perform.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

Your problem obviously wasn't eye delay-related, nor do I think it was dwell-related if you were already running around 15ms. The factory orings do seem to have issues....I swapped everything out with quality orings I have. But at least you could see how it should perform.

I don't think it was related to either of the above either, in fact I think I tested it after every individual thing I tried.

Anyways yeah it was just kinda puffing air, couldn't even cycle the bolt. Then the eyes would "malfunction" and put the (?).

Like I said at first I was thinking solenoid but I swapped the #16 bolt o-ring and all seemed to be fine from there (the one previously on appeared to have no damage). I think maybe it wasn't getting enough friction or maybe I over-lubed. Either way it seems to be firing on all cylinders now.

[safariguy5]

Originally Posted by tipsyfry

I don't think it was related to either of the above either, in fact I think I tested it after every individual thing I tried.

Anyways yeah it was just kinda puffing air, couldn't even cycle the bolt. Then the eyes would "malfunction" and put the (?).

Like I said at first I was thinking solenoid but I swapped the #16 bolt o-ring and all seemed to be fine from there (the one previously on appeared to have no damage). I think maybe it wasn't getting enough friction or maybe I over-lubed. Either way it seems to be firing on all cylinders now.

I've noticed that when I had similar issues, it was usually due to a little too much lube on the can or the bolt surface. Tends to congregate right behind the rubber tip. Just pull the bolt out and wipe the excess lube off and it is good to go.

Other thing I noticed is that the inline regulator comes factory stock with a lot of grease caked onto it. I took it out, wiped off the excess grease and regreased the piston and the piston O-rings per manual. Just to make sure the air filter wasn't being blocked.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by safariguy5

I've noticed that when I had similar issues, it was usually due to a little too much lube on the can or the bolt surface. Tends to congregate right behind the rubber tip. Just pull the bolt out and wipe the excess lube off and it is good to go.

Other thing I noticed is that the inline regulator comes factory stock with a lot of grease caked onto it. I took it out, wiped off the excess grease and regreased the piston and the piston O-rings per manual. Just to make sure the air filter wasn't being blocked.

It really is crazy how little lube this gun needs to function properly. I'm definitely still getting used to it. Not sure if there was any build up of lube anywhere but I'll have to look.

My reg was definitely gunked up the first time I pulled it out. Unfortunately when trying to diagnose the problem yesterday I gunked it up again haha. That didn't fix the issue, will have to take it out again and clean/relube.

[safariguy5]

Originally Posted by tipsyfry

It really is crazy how little lube this gun needs to function properly. I'm definitely still getting used to it. Not sure if there was any build up of lube anywhere but I'll have to look.

My reg was definitely gunked up the first time I pulled it out. Unfortunately when trying to diagnose the problem yesterday I gunked it up again haha. That didn't fix the issue, will have to take it out again and clean/relube.

Agree. When I ran my 3.5 as my main, it was fine if I was a little heavy with grease. I'm using significantly less with my Clone 5 and the Clone still works great. Good to hear you seem to have figured out the issues. Just wanted to confirm that I will occasionally have the puffing sound and it meant I went a little too heavy with the grease and is like a 2 minute fix.

[imped4now]

Less is more with the Clone 5..... For sure. I run mine a hair past dry.

[tipsyfry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

Less is more with the Clone 5..... For sure. I run mine a hair past dry.

Does this include the entire assembly? Or just bolt, valve etc. I would think to go a TAD heavier on the valve but everything I've seemed to read suggests not to.

Originally Posted by safariguy5

Agree. When I ran my 3.5 as my main, it was fine if I was a little heavy with grease. I'm using significantly less with my Clone 5 and the Clone still works great. Good to hear you seem to have figured out the issues. Just wanted to confirm that I will occasionally have the puffing sound and it meant I went a little too heavy with the grease and is like a 2 minute fix.

Good to know if I ever run into the issue again. 3.5 is a great gun but I'm happy with my choice of the clone. I was stuck between the 3.5, cs1 and clone for literally about an hour in my local shop. Picked one up, set it down, picked another one up, set it down, repeat. Cs1 grip frame was just too fat for me and with the 3.5 I didn't like the idea of the gas pipe.

Thank you guys for your responses!