internal scratches and leak

nastyballer · 06-06-2009, 06:01 PM

my one quest body (i have two) has scratches on the inside and so does the gm bolt that was used in the gun (see pics).
When I got to air it up the bolt sticks fowards and air gushes out the lpr and breech. Is this caused from the scratches? Or is it something else like the noid?

I have tried different o-rings and lube.
I have set the lpr to zero and slowly turn it in and it does the same thing.
I have tried different batteries.
I have replaced the lpr valve core
I have opened up the noid to see if it was damaged and didn't see anything
I have the was board. *side note: is the noid supposed to click with the quests when you turn off the eyes and don't have any air in the gun? I know all the other guns that I have had I can hear the noids click.
I have run out of ideas and am tired of seeing it sit around so i'm coming to you guys for help

bomb_xero · 06-06-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nastyballer

my one quest body (i have two) has scratches on the inside and so does the gm bolt that was used in the gun (see pics).
When I got to air it up the bolt sticks fowards and air gushes out the lpr and breech. change all the o-rings on the bolt and bolt pin with correct size and use hater Is this caused from the scratches? Or is it something else like the noid?

I have tried different o-rings and lube. are you sure your using the correct size?
I have set the lpr to zero and slowly turn it in and it does the same thing.
I have tried different batteries.
I have replaced the lpr valve core
I have opened up the noid to see if it was damaged and didn't see anything did you mess with anything inside?
I have the was board. *side note: is the noid supposed to click with the quests when you turn off the eyes and don't have any air in the gun? yes I know all the other guns that I have had I can hear the noids click. check the wires from the board to the noid and make sure they're connected still
I have run out of ideas and am tired of seeing it sit around so i'm coming to you guys for help looks like it may be some ugly breech wear

.

Gailon · 06-07-2009, 07:18 AM

My gun has scratches like that on the inside. It's fine. A quote straight from Cole "It's the orings that seal, not the metal, so scratches won't affect anything in that area" (paraphrased)

nastyballer · 06-07-2009, 11:31 AM

Quote:

change all the o-rings on the bolt and bolt pin with correct size and use hater I used an o-ring kit from o-ring monkey but I have seen that some people with quests have had problems with them. Haven't tried hater.
check the wires from the board to the noid and make sure they're connected still They look like they are connected but they could be loose or someting
looks like it may be some ugly breech wear it is only on the one side and on the gm bolt. It looks more like scratches then wear to me.

Should I try a different o-ring kit with hater and a new battery harness?

Uziel Gal · 06-07-2009, 03:35 PM

The fact that the solenoid doesn't click with the eyes off does suggest an electronic issue, and with stock Quest wiring being fragile, a new solenoid cable may well be in order. Could also be the power harness at fault, so probably worth changing that as well.

If, without power, the solenoid has stuck in a position that supplies air to the back of the bolt, this could explain both your issues.

Otherwise, it would suggest an issue with your bolt sail o-ring (the one at the rear of the bolt) or the second or third o-ring on the pin (counting from the back). If you are seeing a high pressure on the LPR gauge, then the problem most likely lies with the bolt pin o-rings. If it reads the same pressure as normal, then it will probably be the bolt sail o-ring.

eatafetus · 06-07-2009, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gailon

My gun has scratches like that on the inside. It's fine. A quote straight from Cole "It's the orings that seal, not the metal, so scratches won't affect anything in that area" (paraphrased)

as does mine. that is not your problem.

eatafetus · 06-07-2009, 03:49 PM

Since the Quest uses the same noid as the dm4/5/C, check in the dyr forums. I beleive there is a thread about taking your noid apart and lubing it. I'd double check that you didnt insert something in backwards.

nastyballer · 06-07-2009, 05:15 PM

I just put brand new o-rings in the gun.

I am going to order a new harness from erayser on here if that doesn't work then I'll try a new board since I've heard about some of the was boards being junk.

I'm going to check the dye forum right now.

eatafetus · 06-07-2009, 05:19 PM

i have a fully functional WAS board that you can buy if necessary.

also, get a harness from crankwalk...the one I got from erayser is different. The crankwalk ones work with the stock wiring on the solenoid. The erayser ones only work with HIS wiring on the solenoid. So basically if you buy one from erayser you will have to do either some cutting or some soldering.

nastyballer · 06-07-2009, 05:34 PM

Just took apart the noid again while looking at the diagram on zdspb (couldn't find the pic thread with an older dm noid) and everything looks fine.

How much is a harness from crankwalk?

I would be willing to send the board and harness to someone to try it in their quest to see what it does.

Uziel Gal · 06-07-2009, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatafetus

also, get a harness from crankwalk...the one I got from erayser is different. The crankwalk ones work with the stock wiring on the solenoid. The erayser ones only work with HIS wiring on the solenoid. So basically if you buy one from erayser you will have to do either some cutting or some soldering.

Not necessarily so - depends on the age of your Quest.

They changed the solenoid connector at some point in production - I believe that Eraysor's connectors are the ones used on the earlier Quests, and Crankwalk supplies the newer type.

eatafetus · 06-07-2009, 09:07 PM

ah, well, ok then, refer to that before you make a purchase.

heres the dissasembly with pics - https://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1989013

nastyballer · 06-08-2009, 12:49 AM

thanks for the link I could only find one for a pm6 noid. But mine looks exactly like everything in the picture. nothing is in the wrong way and no missing parts.

Not sure how to tell the age of the noid. The serial number off the original gun that the noid came from is 1050. gloss blue in color and came with a .689 back.
Not sure if these pics will help but worth a shot.

eatafetus · 06-08-2009, 07:22 AM

looks like erayser parts to me. we should probably add something in the sticky about which guy to use to make sure your harnesses will fit. I have modded one of my crankwaly harnesses to fit my erayser noid harness, but it isnt pretty. should work, though.

Uziel Gal · 06-08-2009, 07:40 AM

Hard to be certain without the smaller connector for comparison, but the socket on the power harness (in the background of the first picture) does indeed appear to be the larger, older style one.

eatafetus · 06-08-2009, 09:28 AM

I have both, maybe I'll take some pics for the sticky.

To nasty, make sure that all orings are the correct size. I had some on my bolt that were one size too big...they could rotate on the bolt. I changed them to the proper size and they work great. Also, take the whole gun apart. Remove everything (even grub screws on air passages) and wash the body with a mild soap. Let it dry completely and re-assemble. That worked for me once, I just had some debris caked on in the chamber of the gun. If you have access to a sonic cleaner, that will work great too.

nastyballer · 06-08-2009, 11:01 AM

I'll pm erayser then and try to wash the gun in soap.

I broke the gun apart yesterday and checked all the o-rings and changed them.

Gailon · 06-08-2009, 11:45 AM

Yeah fetus if you can that'd be awesome. I only have the older kind.