[SEHJ1992]

Just got a Rev-i with the TechT bolt. Having a hard time tuning it right. What are some recomendations for getting this baby right where it needs to be as far as dwell and the million other settings? Thanks!

[xmc1146]

start your dwell at 12. once broken in, you can lower it as low as the consistency allowed you to with the FPS you desire. you can also lower your bolt delay down to 14-18.

break in depends on the gun. some has 2 cases and some has 10. so its all the matter of how the gun was made.

also see if there is a tune assist on your board. you might have the ape rampage programming in it.

[firefoxx04]

dwell is the only setting that will effect shot quality. 12ms for a few cases then try 11 or 10 and see how the consistency looks. dont worry about the million other settings

[phillysteve]

Increasing the time on the bolt return will increase shot smoothness and decrease sound also. It will decrease rate of fire also - so make sure you don't raise it to the point that you can't maintain your 12.5 bps or whatever settings you are wanting to use.

I don't personally line the tune assist - it is gimmicky. It doesn't give you the smoothest shot, it gives you the most consistent in a sorts. I've had better results tuning it myself.

[CA_Tectonics]

Here are my settings for my TechTed REV-I. They may not be ideal for your marker and/or conditions but at least it is a starting place.....

The Set-up:

Dangerous Power REV-I
Stock gauge backcap
DP gaugeless backcap
TechT GunSav lube
Crossfire SS 68/4500
Disruptive barrel – 0.682 (this was a very slight underbore with the paint I used)
X-Radar chronograph


REV-I Settings:

Trigger debounce = 30
Solenoid dwell = 13
ABS dwell = 0
ABS reset time = 10
Breech delay = 3
Bolt return = 10
Auto shutoff = 0
Eye mode = STD
Eye process = STD
LED control = blue
Audio control = on
OLED intensity = 10


As far as tuning goes, as Phillysteve said, I tend to tune mine myself and don't really use the tune assist feature. Here is how I tune the solenoid dwell:

……..how to set your REV-I solenoid dwell using a chrono:

1) Following the instructions in the manual for inputting your marker setpoints, enter the programing mode and set your solenoid dwell to something low like 8 or 9 ms (this will likely be too low and that’s what we want to start with).

2) Air up your marker and, with a chronograph, adjust your velocity to somewhere in the 260 to 270 fps range. The fps may be all over the place at this point so don’t worry, this is normal (assuming the solenoid dwell is truly too low at 8 or 9 ms). I would not be surprised if you are in the +/- 20 at this step.

3) Now, turn off the marker and then enter programing again. Increase the solenoid dwell by 1 then exit the programing mode. I don’t remember if it is necessary to power off then back on after you make the setting change. I do it just out of habit but don’t know if this is necessary.

4) Check the fps with the same chrono you used to start with. You should see an overall increase in fps – it’s hard to say how much ahead of time but it should be noticeable (maybe +10 overall). You may or may not see the consistency getting better at this point.

5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until there is no more overall gain in fps after upping the solenoid dwell. You may need to do this repeating process a few times. As you step-up the dwell by 1 each time, the consistency should start getting better and better. At some point, you will no longer get any noticeable fps gain with each solenoid dwell increase.

Once you reach the point of no fps gain, that solenoid dwell is your optimal setting for your given conditions (weather, paint quality, paint to barrel bore set-up, lube, etc.). In the winter, you may need to bump it up by 1 or so for the colder, heavier air. Your observations over time should dictate if you need to change the solenoid dwell or not.

That’s it, solenoid dwell set Now check over the course of the day if you are still having the inconsistency issue. When I did my quick stock vs. TechT bolts test, I was around 135 to 140 psi using my stock bolt and around 90 to 95 psi with the TechT engine shooting around 285 for both bolt systems.

Hope this helps.

[firefoxx04]

Originally Posted by phillysteve

Increasing the time on the bolt return will increase shot smoothness and decrease sound also. It will decrease rate of fire also - so make sure you don't raise it to the point that you can't maintain your 12.5 bps or whatever settings you are wanting to use.

I don't personally line the tune assist - it is gimmicky. It doesn't give you the smoothest shot, it gives you the most consistent in a sorts. I've had better results tuning it myself.

you sure? I was always told it was the time the gun waits AFTER the bolt returns before it will shoot another shot. similar to eye delay.

[xmc1146]

Originally Posted by firefoxx04

you sure? I was always told it was the time the gun waits AFTER the bolt returns before it will shoot another shot. similar to eye delay.

similar but no, they work in conjunction with one another. the return delays when the bolt is in the return position then the eye delay kicks in, this is when the ball drops in and the eye delays will wait in a certain time once the ball is detected before cycling again.

[firefoxx04]

okay, but i dont see how electronically controlling the time the bolt takes to return would make the marker run smoother. Its not like the ego11 solenoid or the manifold screw on the luxe that actually tunes the speed of the bolt while its returning. The idea is to slow the bolts actually speed when returning to make the marker feel smoother.. which it would and you wouldnt have to worry about inconsistency and low fps this way. But thats all done mechanically and messing with pressure.

[learningxp]

Originally Posted by CA_Tectonics

Here are my settings for my TechTed REV-I. They may not be ideal for your marker and/or conditions but at least it is a starting place.....

The Set-up:

Dangerous Power REV-I
Stock gauge backcap
DP gaugeless backcap
TechT GunSav lube
Crossfire SS 68/4500
Disruptive barrel – 0.682 (this was a very slight underbore with the paint I used)
X-Radar chronograph


REV-I Settings:

Trigger debounce = 30
Solenoid dwell = 13
ABS dwell = 0
ABS reset time = 10
Breech delay = 3
Bolt return = 10
Auto shutoff = 0
Eye mode = STD
Eye process = STD
LED control = blue
Audio control = on
OLED intensity = 10


As far as tuning goes, as Phillysteve said, I tend to tune mine myself and don't really use the tune assist feature. Here is how I tune the solenoid dwell:

……..how to set your REV-I solenoid dwell using a chrono:

1) Following the instructions in the manual for inputting your marker setpoints, enter the programing mode and set your solenoid dwell to something low like 8 or 9 ms (this will likely be too low and that’s what we want to start with).

2) Air up your marker and, with a chronograph, adjust your velocity to somewhere in the 260 to 270 fps range. The fps may be all over the place at this point so don’t worry, this is normal (assuming the solenoid dwell is truly too low at 8 or 9 ms). I would not be surprised if you are in the +/- 20 at this step.

3) Now, turn off the marker and then enter programing again. Increase the solenoid dwell by 1 then exit the programing mode. I don’t remember if it is necessary to power off then back on after you make the setting change. I do it just out of habit but don’t know if this is necessary.

4) Check the fps with the same chrono you used to start with. You should see an overall increase in fps – it’s hard to say how much ahead of time but it should be noticeable (maybe +10 overall). You may or may not see the consistency getting better at this point.

5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until there is no more overall gain in fps after upping the solenoid dwell. You may need to do this repeating process a few times. As you step-up the dwell by 1 each time, the consistency should start getting better and better. At some point, you will no longer get any noticeable fps gain with each solenoid dwell increase.

Once you reach the point of no fps gain, that solenoid dwell is your optimal setting for your given conditions (weather, paint quality, paint to barrel bore set-up, lube, etc.). In the winter, you may need to bump it up by 1 or so for the colder, heavier air. Your observations over time should dictate if you need to change the solenoid dwell or not.

That’s it, solenoid dwell set Now check over the course of the day if you are still having the inconsistency issue. When I did my quick stock vs. TechT bolts test, I was around 135 to 140 psi using my stock bolt and around 90 to 95 psi with the TechT engine shooting around 285 for both bolt systems.

Hope this helps.

I did this on Sunday. And my dwell ended up being at 17 running just under 200psi. Did I do something wrong? O.o

[CA_Tectonics]

Originally Posted by learningxp

I did this on Sunday. And my dwell ended up being at 17 running just under 200psi. Did I do something wrong? O.o

Yup - that is WAY too high of a dwell. Maybe it is the lube you are using or there is an o-ring that is a tad too tight but I would expect a dwell somewhere between 10 and 14 in most cases.

[learningxp]

I used monkey poo lube. We play indoors, so weather conditions are room temp if not hotter, cold would only come from shooting. The tight oring would obviously be located inside the spacer?

But yah, I stopped gaining fps at 17 dwell, 18 started to lose fps.

[CA_Tectonics]

Originally Posted by learningxp

I used monkey poo lube. We play indoors, so weather conditions are room temp if not hotter, cold would only come from shooting. The tight oring would obviously be located inside the spacer?

But yah, I stopped gaining fps at 17 dwell, 18 started to lose fps.

Sounds like lube and weather conditions aren't a factor. Monkey Poo should be just fine as long as you are not putting on a ton of the stuff. If it is a tight o-ring, it could be 1 of 3 o-rings.....the inner boltstop o-ring (that the tail of the bolthead goes through), the sail o-ring on the bolthead (the one on the bolthead closest to the tail), or the inner breach o-ring (in the marker body behind the feedneck). If any of those are too tight, it may be too much friction causing the need for higher pressure to get the fps up to speed. The bolthead should move fairly easily back and forth.

Getting back to the tuning and the fps gain, what you are looking for is the general fps over a few to several shots, not necessarily between 2 individual shots. Because consistency may not be perfect, fps between 2 individual shots may differ but if taken into a group of shots, the overall fps may be relatively stable. Also make sure your ABS is 0 when doing this. If it isn't, you need to disregard the fps of the first shot when looking at the overall fps pattern.

[learningxp]

So am I looking for fps gain or fps consistency? 17 gave me a +/-5 range. I'll try replacing those 3 orings. Would you know the sizes? Or have a link to the sizes? I currently don't have internet, so ive been using phone data.

[CA_Tectonics]

Originally Posted by learningxp

So am I looking for fps gain or fps consistency? 17 gave me a +/-5 range. I'll try replacing those 3 orings. Would you know the sizes? Or have a link to the sizes? I currently don't have internet, so ive been using phone data.

FPS gain. Consistency should follow. What I'm trying to get at is don't shoot just 2 shots, see a gain or drop of....say 7fps, then call it not enough and raise the dwell again. Instead, look for general overall fps gains out of....say 5 to 7 shots. For example - Maybe the 1st set of 5 shots average around 260. Raise the dwell by 1 and the next set of shots has an average of around 268. Raise the dwell again and the set is now averaging 270. That's good enough. A 2fps gain isn't much to go on.

As for the o-ring sizes:

Here you go - Dangerous Power o-ring size charts.

This ^^^ is good for the internal breach o-ring (= 17.17mm ID X 1.78mm CS...a standard -017).

The TechT internal bolt stop o-ring is a 8.5mm ID X 2mm CS. The TechT sail o-ring is 15.6mm ID X 1.78mm CS...a standard -016.

[learningxp]

Thank you! Gonna get some air tomorrow and hopefully I can get the issue solved before Saturday.

[CA_Tectonics]

Does the bolt slide relatively easily in and out of the breach? You can also check if it slides through the internal bolt stop easily by just taking the engine out and holding the boltstop and let the tail of the bolthead drop through the boltstop. If it doesn't want to go through very easily, that may be your issue.